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basicblack
Oct 9, 2004

That basic little black dress.


https://www.cnn.com/travel/sherpas-pass-up-everest-summit-in-order-to-rescue-missing-climber/index.html

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orange juche
Mar 14, 2012




Amazed they managed to convince the climber they were escorting that saving the dying mountaineer was more important than the summit. Lots of times climbers get summit fever and will push on past people who are not doing good in order to drive for the summit.

Chaosfeather
Nov 4, 2008

Wait was that the guy a few days ago "Below the Hillary Step" that some people saw, reported it back at camp, and then they looked out and couldn't find him? Or is this the other climber that was recently lost? Or someone else completely?


Either way, incredible rescue, good on The Sherpa, and glad the client was understanding that a life was more important than them proving how inspired they were or whatever. It sounds like additional people helped the rescue as they got lower, but I'm giving 99% of the credit to the Sherpa for saying "no, we need to do this".

Nocheez
Sep 5, 2000

Can you spare a little cheddar?
Nap Ghost

Chaosfeather posted:

Wait was that the guy a few days ago "Below the Hillary Step" that some people saw, reported it back at camp, and then they looked out and couldn't find him? Or is this the other climber that was recently lost? Or someone else completely?


Either way, incredible rescue, good on The Sherpa, and glad the client was understanding that a life was more important than them proving how inspired they were or whatever. It sounds like additional people helped the rescue as they got lower, but I'm giving 99% of the credit to the Sherpa for saying "no, we need to do this".
And for, you know, actually doing it.

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



Chaosfeather posted:

Wait was that the guy a few days ago "Below the Hillary Step" that some people saw, reported it back at camp, and then they looked out and couldn't find him? Or is this the other climber that was recently lost? Or someone else completely?


different climber. the guy at the step is absolutely gone. (was an accomplished hungarian climber doing a no o2 attempt named szilard)

the article I linked mentioned multiple rescues going on every single day.

ethanol fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Jun 1, 2023

theflyingexecutive
Apr 22, 2007

ethanol posted:

They flew them up to camp 2 from base camp and started from there apparently. These guys were already rescuing people last week. Seems they want a challenge? I dunno. It's definitely risky

I'm at goon level of physical fitness, but I'm pretty sure that's cheating.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


ewe2 posted:

New rule: you don't get to summit until you've taken down some trash. No I don't care if it's your first time, call it an acclimatization run. Maybe it'll put them off and save lives (who am I kidding, half of them will fall off the edge picking up a gas bottle).

This is already the case.

National Geographic posted:

They also started a deposit initiative, which has been running since 2014. Anyone visiting Mount Everest has to pay a $4,000 deposit, and the money is refunded if the person returns with eight kilograms (18 pounds) of garbage—the avegae amount that a single person produces during the climb.
https://education.nationalgeographic.org/resource/trash-and-overcrowding-top-world/

Chaosfeather
Nov 4, 2008

ethanol posted:

different climber. the guy at the step is absolutely gone. (was an accomplished hungarian climber doing a no o2 attempt named szilard)

the article I linked mentioned multiple rescues going on every single day.

Ah drat, I saw that they mentioned multiple rescues I just didn't know who the other guy was. Was kinda hoping he'd get found again.

basicblack
Oct 9, 2004

That basic little black dress.



Thank you for posting, this is an excellent read.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

what's kind of startling to me is that all those climbing permits are supposed to be "a lot of money" for Nepal, but...


quote:

Government officials say they will not issue any more Everest climbing permits this season, stopping at a record of 478. The previous Everest record was 408 for the 2021 season of 408. Nepal issued climbing permits for 1,176 climbers from 80 countries for 27 peaks. Looking at Everest only, China has the largest representation with 97 members, followed by the US at 89, India–at 40, Canada-21, and Russia-20. There are 44 countries represented by three or fewer climbers.

These permits have generated $5.8M in royalties for the government. Almost all of this revenue stays in Kathmandu, with some in various personal pockets and none to the Sherpas, porters, or other high-altitude workers.

Less than six million dollars? I know Nepal is a very poor country, but on the scale of government, that's pocket change. I think the "various personal pockets" is the key thing here, this is a source of revenue for bribes to corrupt officials, as opposed to the state government of Nepal actually depending on six million dollars. Nepal's government spending about $3B (source), so if the government actually collected and spent 100% of those fees, that'd be about two tenths of a percent of government spending if I did my math right.

There's got to be more revenues than just from the permits, obviously. The guide companies likely have to pay a bunch of money in taxes? The summiting operation at everest probably subsidizes to some extent the attraction and traffic to and through everest base camp. Still, even if we assume ten times as much revenues from follow-on stuff, it's still a tiny amount of the government's overall spending.

Cantorsdust
Aug 10, 2008

Infinitely many points, but zero length.
5.8 million / 478 permits = It costs around $12,000 for a permit? That seems insultingly low. And that's a fraction of the cost for guides, gear, travel, food, etc. Nepal could easily improve safety by increasing the cost significantly and decreasing total climbers. You have to imagine that the price elasticity for a Everest climbing permit is high.

Wistful of Dollars
Aug 25, 2009

Alan Smithee posted:

No there’s a Mt Everest zipline

Need one between K2 and Broad Peak.

Wistful of Dollars
Aug 25, 2009

Buy 1 get 1 free.

Reach the top of K2 and we'll throw in Broad Peak for free.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS

ethanol posted:

I heard they tried to implement this exact thing before. Not sure how far it got, if it got past basic planning or whatever. people were pissed that it had to be a Nepal mountain so was more about profit than climbing experience

If Nepal were a Western nation, it would be considered justified because of course countries can demand that things be demonstrated in their territory, under their supervision.

Sometimes immigrants or people on work visas get reciprocity for education and work experience, but sometimes they have to do a whole lot of stuff over in their new home, and we accept that.

FDA wants trials of drugs and medical devices to be conducted on Americans, and no one bats an eye at that.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS

Arsenic Lupin posted:

quote:

They also started a deposit initiative, which has been running since 2014. Anyone visiting Mount Everest has to pay a $4,000 deposit, and the money is refunded if the person returns with eight kilograms (18 pounds) of garbage—the avegae amount that a single person produces during the climb.

https://education.nationalgeographic.org/resource/trash-and-overcrowding-top-world/

They probably pay more than that to shave eight kilograms off gear weight.

Atlas Hugged
Mar 12, 2007


Put your arms around me,
fiddly digits, itchy britches
I love you all
Given how many people have paid to summit Everest at this point, giving up your own dream to summit in order to save a life might be the better human interest story that you can get paid to talk about, stealing all the Sherpa valor in the process.

Nice Tuckpointing!
Nov 3, 2005

Atlas Hugged posted:

Given how many people have paid to summit Everest at this point, giving up your own dream to summit in order to save a life might be the better human interest story that you can get paid to talk about, stealing all the Sherpa valor in the process.

A good case for more mountaineering snobbery. Oh great, another out-of-shape schmuck I have to ditch my summit bid for or else he dies.

Outrail
Jan 4, 2009

www.sapphicrobotica.com
:roboluv: :love: :roboluv:
First cis white male account manager to commit a truly selfless act and abandon a summit attempt to save a human life.

ante
Apr 9, 2005

SUNSHINE AND RAINBOWS
Dude who abandoned his attempt was Chinese

White CEO would never abandon that glory

Point taken though

Silver John
Sep 30, 2014

ante posted:

Dude who abandoned his attempt was Chinese

White CEO would never abandon that glory

Point taken though

Honestly, saved a man’s life while climbing Everest sounds like a much better story than summited Everest. Maybe not in some circles though

Nice Tuckpointing!
Nov 3, 2005

Silver John posted:

Honestly, saved a man’s life while climbing Everest sounds like a much better story than summited Everest. Maybe not in some circles though

I'm going to start a service: For every life you save on Everest, you get a free ride to the summit via drone. You earned it, buddy.

edit; changed my mind. It's now a 10% discount.

BUG JUG
Feb 17, 2005



Chrpno posted:

What's lungma?

Lungma balls!!!!


Lamo gottem

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

saved a person's life, by giving your porter permission to save their life instead of continuing to haul your rear end to the summit; heroically followed the person you're paying $20 a day as they literally lifted another adult human onto their back and walked down the icy sheer face of the world's highest mountain

truly an inspiring story

Comrade Koba
Jul 2, 2007

Cantorsdust posted:

5.8 million / 478 permits = It costs around $12,000 for a permit? That seems insultingly low. And that's a fraction of the cost for guides, gear, travel, food, etc. Nepal could easily improve safety by increasing the cost significantly and decreasing total climbers. You have to imagine that the price elasticity for a Everest climbing permit is high.

From the information I’ve found, it looks like a permit for climbing Everest from the Tibetan side is around $10K total. If the Nepalese government priced itself much higher than that, it’s possible we’d see a lot more people try (and fail) to summit via the north route instead.

Mynameismud
Jul 12, 2009
Alan did a complete break down of the total cost to climb Everest.

https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/02/02/how-much-does-it-cost-to-climb-mount-everest-2023-edition/

You can find the permit cost in there.


Comrade Koba posted:

From the information I’ve found, it looks like a permit for climbing Everest from the Tibetan side is around $10K total. If the Nepalese government priced itself much higher than that, it’s possible we’d see a lot more people try (and fail) to summit via the north route instead.

No I don't think so. You need to prove you climbed a 8000+ mountain before you are allowed to climb from the Tibet side.
For that reason a lot of Chinese climbers go via Nepal.

Alan Smithee
Jan 4, 2005


A man becomes preeminent, he's expected to have enthusiasms.

Enthusiasms, enthusiasms...

Mynameismud posted:

Alan did a complete break down of the total cost to climb Everest.

Don’t sleep on a Bluetooth speaker for your tunes and podcasts

orange juche
Mar 14, 2012



Mynameismud posted:

Alan did a complete break down of the total cost to climb Everest.

https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/02/02/how-much-does-it-cost-to-climb-mount-everest-2023-edition/

You can find the permit cost in there.

No I don't think so. You need to prove you climbed a 8000+ mountain before you are allowed to climb from the Tibet side.
For that reason a lot of Chinese climbers go via Nepal.

They really need to implement the 8000+ barrier on the Nepalese side too tbh, would be less dead climbers I think. A lot of the dead folks are people whose first trip to 8000+ meters is Everest.

basicblack
Oct 9, 2004

That basic little black dress.


https://www.cnn.com/videos/travel/2023/06/02/rescue-mount-everest-climber-sherpa-freezing-mwrmx-cprog-vpx.cnn

Yesterday's article, now as video.

Also, JFC...

Outrail
Jan 4, 2009

www.sapphicrobotica.com
:roboluv: :love: :roboluv:

Mynameismud posted:

Alan did a complete break down of the total cost to climb Everest.

https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/02/02/how-much-does-it-cost-to-climb-mount-everest-2023-edition/

You can find the permit cost in there.

No I don't think so. You need to prove you climbed a 8000+ mountain before you are allowed to climb from the Tibet side.
For that reason a lot of Chinese climbers go via Nepal.

quote:

The age of the average climber is growing. In 2008, the age group between 20 and 29 dominated those who summited at 29%. By 2019, the last ‘typical’ year on Everest, i.e., pre-pandemic, that group shrank to 13%, and the 40 to 49 group swelled to 32%. By the way, the 50 to 59 ‘old-timers’ went from 7% to 16% in that same timeframe! Also, female climbers have grown dramatically, with 14% of the 2008 summiters being female to 24% in 2019.

:thunk:

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS

orange juche posted:

They really need to implement the 8000+ barrier on the Nepalese side too tbh, would be less dead climbers I think. A lot of the dead folks are people whose first trip to 8000+ meters is Everest.

Googles “easiest 8000m mountain.”

Books porters for Cho Oyu.


Comedy option: start with K2.

orange juche
Mar 14, 2012



Platystemon posted:

Googles “easiest 8000m mountain.”

Books porters for Cho Oyu.


Comedy option: start with K2.

"Cho Oyu is considered the easiest eight-thousander, with the lowest death-summit ratio (1⁄25th of Annapurna's). It is the second most climbed eight-thousander after Everest (whose height makes it the most popular), and has over four times the ascents of the third most popular eight-thousander, Gasherbrum II. It is marketed as a "trekking peak", achievable for climbers with high fitness, but low mountaineering experience."

unironically, yeah, people wanting to climb 8000+ peaks probably should start with Cho Oyu. It's even about 20km away from Everest so you can get some amazing pictures of Everest from the summit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3cT2Cl2bsg

It also helps teach people important things about climbing ultra-high peaks, like Acute Mountain Sickness/HAPE/HACE and the effects of oxygen deprivation on your body, how the weather affects the climb, etc.

orange juche fucked around with this message at 00:23 on Jun 3, 2023

fez_machine
Nov 27, 2004

Platystemon posted:

Googles “easiest 8000m mountain.”

Books porters for Cho Oyu.


Comedy option: start with K2.

Not sure Cho Oyu is going to solve the old people problem (or solve it too well)

quote:

2009 Clifton Maloney, husband of US Representative Carolyn Maloney and at that time the oldest American to summit an eight-thousander,[21] died at age 71 after summiting on 25 September. His final words were "I’m the happiest man in the world. I’ve just summited a beautiful mountain."

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS

orange juche posted:

unironically, yeah, people wanting to climb 8000+ peaks probably should start with Cho Oyu.

Couch to 8k it is!

Wingnut Ninja
Jan 11, 2003

Mostly Harmless
"Easiest 8000m mountain" sounds kind of like "fattest Olympic marathon runner". Sure there are gradations within the category, but in the grand scheme of things it's a pretty elite group no matter what.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
Everyone at the club will make fun of you for climbing Cho Oyu.

orange juche
Mar 14, 2012



Platystemon posted:

Couch to 8k it is!

It will take a while to get there and pretty significant money, but you can do it. It takes about 9 months to a year of focused training, 5-6 days a week to get into the kind of shape you need to summit an 8000+, but it's doable as long as you don't have any medical conditions that would expressly preclude climbing, like a loving pacemaker lol.

That said, trekking companies won't take you on as a client unless you have prior 7000+ summit experience anyways, along with having multiple summits of mountains in general. You can still try to get a permit and climb without support of a trekking company, and then people will have a new set of boots to pass by on their way up the mountain.

orange juche fucked around with this message at 01:16 on Jun 3, 2023

nomad2020
Jan 30, 2007

Platystemon posted:

Everyone at the club will make fun of you for climbing Cho Oyu.



As someone who hails from the Appalachian chain, I feel confident in saying that an extra 250-500m climb is no big deal. I could probably do that before breakfast.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.

fez_machine posted:

Not sure Cho Oyu is going to solve the old people problem (or solve it too well)

quote:

His final words were "I’m the happiest man in the world. I’ve just summited a beautiful mountain."

Honestly, there's worse ways to go.

Apollodorus
Feb 13, 2010

TEST YOUR MIGHT
:patriot:

gohuskies posted:

Honestly, there's worse ways to go.

Yeah, at least he went out on top.

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PostNouveau
Sep 3, 2011

VY till I die
Grimey Drawer

Holy poo poo they literally Death Strandinged someone

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