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SSH IT ZOMBIE
Apr 19, 2003
No more blinkies! Yay!
College Slice

Phy posted:

Having starting issues on the ZRX, not sure what the culprit is.

  • I push the starter button with the killswitch closed, bike in neutral and stand down or bike in gear with clutch in and stand up, and the starter does gently caress-all. No clicks, nothing.
  • picking the bike up and moving it a few inches seems to do the trick most of the time
  • I did have to bumpstart it once last week, that worked fine
  • Starter gets the engine turning promptly when it does engage
  • Battery may have issues due to going a month or more uncharged while I dealt with COVID last fall, but I had a dying battery in this bike a couple years ago and it presented more as being very anemic starting the bike.
  • my kickstand bolt was alarmingly loose, like not even finger tight. Bad Phy.
  • However, so far no issues with having the engine cut off once it's running, which to my mind implies that it might not be the kickstand switch.

E: by the owners manual, I shouldn't have to clutch in on start if it's in neutral, and I think the wiring diagram agrees but I'm not 100% positive.

Did you already do the obvious and try to jump it with a car when it acts up? Moving it a few inches may be inconsequential. Batteries do get pretty weird when they die, sometimes give all or nothing. Having a voltmeter would also help, checking voltage drop when you try the starter.

It might not be the issue, but process of elimination is valid, when you can rule stuff out with whatever is on hand.

SSH IT ZOMBIE fucked around with this message at 06:15 on Jun 8, 2023

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Phy
Jun 27, 2008



Fun Shoe
Lol nah. Process of elimination works great when a problem is kind enough to be consistent; this one's not. Didn't happen to me at all today, for instance. And when it has happened, I haven't really had the luxury of time to troubleshoot, let alone have a car on-hand to jump it with.

If/when it happens again, I'm gonna play around with it a little and take notes, because I think I might actually have already eliminated the lockout switches as the point of failure, but I'm not 100% sure.

SSH IT ZOMBIE
Apr 19, 2003
No more blinkies! Yay!
College Slice
If I hypothetically wanted to build some atrocity, like a 3 wheeler with a fiberglass cabin, and wanted to make it simple, ie bike steering mechanisms, no differential, could I put the motor up front and do front wheel drive? The rear tires could free spin eschewing the need to source a diff.

It might be mildly laterally unstable but maybe could have independent soft suspension angled in the back for each wheel and allow for some compression before tipping.

NYDMV is pretty strict about custom cars but less so about motorcycles and three wheelers.

It seems like it could be done by mixing off the shelf quad and clone motorcycle parts, and a bit of welding.

Do any 3 wheel front wheel drive scoot scoots exist? Are they poo poo or does it work?

I wonder if having a front tire do both drive and steering would reduce points of traction. Probably. Oof.

I wonder if such a vehicle would be hypothetically better with rear wheel drive, single, like a motorcycle, and steering linkages up front for two wheels. I hate how ATVs steer compared to a bike, though.

SSH IT ZOMBIE fucked around with this message at 18:06 on Jun 8, 2023

Phy
Jun 27, 2008



Fun Shoe

SSH IT ZOMBIE posted:

I wonder if such a vehicle would be hypothetically better with rear wheel drive, single, like a motorcycle, and steering linkages up front for two wheels. I hate how ATVs steer compared to a bike, though.

I like how you worked through this problem out loud and ended up at the Can-am Spyder.

The only bike I'm aware of that regularly comes with FWD is the Rokon, and it uses a whole bunch of different chains (and probably some bevel gears) to transmit power to the front while keeping it steerable and sprung. It also drives the rear in the usual way, making it AWD, and it ain't fast.

moxieman
Jul 30, 2013

I'd rather die than go to heaven.
If you hypothetically want to build a hypothetical vehicle the answer to all of your questions is: Yes. Given enough time and resources and engineering know-how you can build whatever the gently caress crazy custom vehicle you want, with one or all or none of the wheels being driven by one or more engines.

What you haven’t stated is a goal for all this hypothesizing. What’s the purpose of this vehicle? Do you have half a wrecked bike you’re trying to repurpose or did you come across a great deal to purchase three wheels you can’t pass up or… ?

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

moxieman posted:

If you hypothetically want to build a hypothetical vehicle the answer to all of your questions is: Yes. Given enough time and resources and engineering know-how you can build whatever the gently caress crazy custom vehicle you want, with one or all or none of the wheels being driven by one or more engines.

What you haven’t stated is a goal for all this hypothesizing. What’s the purpose of this vehicle? Do you have half a wrecked bike you’re trying to repurpose or did you come across a great deal to purchase three wheels you can’t pass up or… ?

I remember a mate doing this incessantly and the answer was always that you can do anything you like given enough money and it got fucken exhausting. But he was twenty so it was understandable at least.

Jazzzzz
May 16, 2002

Phy posted:

I like how you worked through this problem out loud and ended up at the Can-am Spyder.

The only bike I'm aware of that regularly comes with FWD is the Rokon, and it uses a whole bunch of different chains (and probably some bevel gears) to transmit power to the front while keeping it steerable and sprung. It also drives the rear in the usual way, making it AWD, and it ain't fast.

Christini has been modifying dirt bikes with FWD systems for years - used to be they'd take Yamaha 450s and add their kit to them, now they have a few different models including EVs. It works pretty much as you described, a secondary drive chain that hooks to a drive shaft under the fuel tank that leads up to bevel gears in the headstock

https://christinimotorcycles.com/how-it-works/

builds character
Jan 16, 2008

Keep at it.

Jazzzzz posted:

Christini has been modifying dirt bikes with FWD systems for years - used to be they'd take Yamaha 450s and add their kit to them, now they have a few different models including EVs. It works pretty much as you described, a secondary drive chain that hooks to a drive shaft under the fuel tank that leads up to bevel gears in the headstock

https://christinimotorcycles.com/how-it-works/

I went riding with a guy who had one once and it seemed completely unnecessary and excessive until one hill climb where he just easily rode up because the front was pulling too. It was pretty incredible given skill levels.

Decedent
Dec 20, 2022

by Fluffdaddy
Is it possible to charge a smaller EV motorcycle (zerofxe) on a power inverter from my truck while it sits on a rack as I drive, or is this just wishful thinking?
What kinda inverter would that take?

Phy
Jun 27, 2008



Fun Shoe

moxieman posted:

If you hypothetically want to build a hypothetical vehicle the answer to all of your questions is: Yes. Given enough time and resources and engineering know-how you can build whatever the gently caress crazy custom vehicle you want, with one or all or none of the wheels being driven by one or more engines.

To touch on this: Back in the early 2000s Yamaha had Ohlins develop a hydraulic drive for the front wheel of the WR450, using a Rexroth pump and motor. Apparently it worked well enough, but not so well as to really justify the $25000 AUD price of entry. (Would have been like $19000 USD.) They sold 250 total.

A retrospective from 2020 about it

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Phy posted:

To touch on this: Back in the early 2000s Yamaha had Ohlins develop a hydraulic drive for the front wheel of the WR450, using a Rexroth pump and motor. Apparently it worked well enough, but not so well as to really justify the $25000 AUD price of entry. (Would have been like $19000 USD.) They sold 250 total.

A retrospective from 2020 about it

If this were ktm they would've just found a way to make it much cheaper but with a 70% failure rate and people the world over would be hailing them as geniuses

SSH IT ZOMBIE
Apr 19, 2003
No more blinkies! Yay!
College Slice

Decedent posted:

Is it possible to charge a smaller EV motorcycle (zerofxe) on a power inverter from my truck while it sits on a rack as I drive, or is this just wishful thinking?
What kinda inverter would that take?

I can't speak to EV motorcycles. I can speak to electronics.
A vehicle alternator perhaps can put out 100-150 amps. A smaller charger may run 1000w at 110v.
A smaller alternator is putting out 1200-1600 watts, some of which is actually needed for the vehicles ' electronics.

A car aux cig lighter can maybe do 10-15 amps at 12v. Amps * volts, 180 watts.

The short of it, it would be taxing your alternator. It would need a dedicated circuit(there are formulas to calculate gauge of wire), and can't run on like an aux 12v power port. And only a very, very small charger would do, an aftermarket charger that draws lower current.

It would take hours to charge, and be taxing your vehicle's alternator to run on an inverter.

The charging time would be slower than what the market calls a level 1 charger, perhaps a third.

You would have to look up the specs of your vehicle and put in your own safety margins and determine if there are any aftermarket chargers that have a low enough current draw.

When looking at inverters, make sure you pick one that supports an average draw of what you are running, not peak, especially if a chinese ebay special inverter.

Do you really want to jury rig something to a nice truck? Or go spend a lot to do it professionally. Basically, yes, but not well. There are high current alternators and such used for campers or power tools.

SSH IT ZOMBIE fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Jun 9, 2023

LimaBiker
Dec 9, 2020




You essentially have to add an extra alternator if you wanna power an off the shelf charger.
Some RVs have an extra alternator because it's sometimes easier to add a whole extra alternator with associated battery, than to have euro 7 emissions-related battery management (charges only when brake pedal is depressed etc) play nice with a household battery. Depending on the vehicle it may or may not be a realistic option.

If somehow you can find a charger that doesn't consume more than let's say 500w, then using the stock alternator could be an option.

LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Jun 9, 2023

Ulf
Jul 15, 2001

FOUR COLORS
ONE LOVE
Nap Ghost
The level 1 charger on the bike wants to pull 120V @ ~11A continuous, with some hand waving call that ~1300 watts.

Your inverter likely won’t put out that kind of power, and if it did your alternator likely wouldn’t keep up with it. But bring a generator rated for that kind of sustained output and you’re good, but it should be a Honda to keep things in the general bieks family.

2Fast2Nutricious
Oct 4, 2020

That would be an interesting take on a diesel-electric powertrain.

Captain McAllister
May 24, 2001


Alright, so after getting my F800GS back together and spending a few days loving around, this is what I've found out:

With traction control and ABS both OFF:

I can still induce the issue in pretty short order by working the front brake - say you're in traffic and the car ahead of you slams on the brake because a yellow turned to red. In such situations, I usually use both front and rear brake, but do a 'squeeze, squeeeze, squeeeeeze' on the front brake.

On an empty road, using this technique with just the front brake will bring up my issue. There will be a slight drag to the brakes, and a more noticeable vibe up through the bars with a bit of a 'whumming' sound.

I say more noticeable vibe, because I have fairly chunky tires (Heidenau K60 Scouts), and weirdly the vibration will increase or lessen if I slightly lean the bike over (say, going in and out of a roundabout).

When I put the bike back together, I made sure to follow the procedure properly, and used the torque specs and a torque wrench. I also hosed out the front calipers with brake cleaner, and re-greased the pad slides.

I think something up front isn't fully releasing/returning to its normal position after 'hard' braking?

SSH IT ZOMBIE
Apr 19, 2003
No more blinkies! Yay!
College Slice
Have you put the bike on a stand? The caliper pin isn't bent and like the wheel spins freely - like inspect the disc around the pads - the rotor isn't bent is it, you could see it by spinning the wheel freehand? The rotor is also attached properly to the hub? If it's not ABS something about your brakes feels damaged, esp with your new bearings that have been properly pressed in and you are fully confident in.

I mean it's not like the fork is wobbling around on one side in your tripple tree making the wheel randomly twerk, right? That is dangerous. Fork mount\pinch bolts OK? Kind of a long shot with that one.

If it's none of that quick stuff I defer to Slavvy atp.

SSH IT ZOMBIE fucked around with this message at 03:49 on Jun 12, 2023

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat
What would the practical difference in handling be between +1” longer shocks, vs +1” taller handlebar riser?

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Honestly I still think the front brake is starting to drag. That could be a bunch of stuff ranging from caliper issues to a blocked up master cylinder to whatever. Imo it's either something sticking in your caliper (slides, pistons etc) or a hydraulic issue causing the caliper to stay on after a few movements. This is if you rule out actual mechanical or assembly issues like bearings in with incorrect spacers, disc shenanigans, heat related stuff etc

Not related to your issue: pulsing the front brakes on and off isn't really a great idea. Just brake in one decisive, smooth movement or use the rear brake if you just want to go a tiny bit slower.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




epswing posted:

What would the practical difference in handling be between +1” longer shocks, vs +1” taller handlebar riser?

The shocks will put the bike higher in the air, vs the bars which will make you sit more upright.

Taller shocks will reduce rake, essentially, in theory leading to sharper handling characteristics. Depending on the bike, 1” may or may not make a difference.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

They're also at opposite ends of the bike. Really they're two completely unrelated things if you think about it

SSH IT ZOMBIE
Apr 19, 2003
No more blinkies! Yay!
College Slice
Does anyone's like arms, wrists, shoulders etc go numb?
I thought it was just the high vibrations from my Versys 300 that did it, after over an hour.
The Kayo revs much lower and off road the sensation is there in like 15 minutes.
I have not had it happen on the weird Chinese grom clone but I am never on that for more than an hour.

I am starting to think it has something to do with dirtbike ergos instead of vibration.

Relaxing the grip helps some but I really just need frequent stops which makes group riding annoying.

Dirt bikes are a lot of standing...I guess forward leaning...I guess I am just making the vibrations go into my arms harder..

Might have been mentioned earlier here...carpal tunnel\tendonitis? Maybe different gloves.

SSH IT ZOMBIE fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Jun 13, 2023

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
I haven't had that issue with the 5 dirt bikes I've owned or my Monkey/VStrom/88 CBR600 I owned for a couple months a decade ago
I did have that problem on road bicycles at times. Probably posture related in that case.

moparacker
May 8, 2007


Might I recommend trying these. Made a nice difference on my 1-cyl G310, especially since it also increased the grip diameter for comfort with longer fingers.

builds character
Jan 16, 2008

Keep at it.

SSH IT ZOMBIE posted:

Does anyone's like arms, wrists, shoulders etc go numb?
I thought it was just the high vibrations from my Versys 300 that did it, after over an hour.
The Kayo revs much lower and off road the sensation is there in like 15 minutes.
I have not had it happen on the weird Chinese grom clone but I am never on that for more than an hour.

I am starting to think it has something to do with dirtbike ergos instead of vibration.

Relaxing the grip helps some but I really just need frequent stops which makes group riding annoying.

Dirt bikes are a lot of standing...I guess forward leaning...I guess I am just making the vibrations go into my arms harder..

Might have been mentioned earlier here...carpal tunnel\tendonitis? Maybe different gloves.

grip the bike with your legs, not your hands.

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
It's probably mostly two things but given the new bike, maybe a third

1 leaning too far forward and/or not setting up the ergos for you.

2 especially on dirt, not gripping the bike with your legs. This helps stabilize you to the bike.

3 if it's a small bike and you're an adult, if you stand up you're probably leaning over onto the bars. Little bikes have a shorter height from the pegs to the bars so when you stand up and ride, you're likely hunching over further than if you were on a full size bike (250/300 etc).

A lot of cycle related fitment revolves around being balanced in the saddle. Road bicycles, dirt bikes ... Similar idea.

If you're fitted on the seat correctly and the handlebar reach is adjusted properly, with your feet on the pedals/pegs, you should be able to remove your hands and not fall forward. That's how little pressure you should be putting on the bars. You might see this with small riders on full size "upright" bikes. They might have to reach further to grab the bars, now putting their weight too far forward.

It's kind of amazing how much you can steer/weight transfer with your feet. I've done trail rides where I don't pay attention to my hands and just use my feet to move the bike. It's a fun and good exercise in bike manipulation. Loosen your arms and alternate pushing down with your feet to feel how much it makes a difference.

Also, avoid locking your arms.

SSH IT ZOMBIE
Apr 19, 2003
No more blinkies! Yay!
College Slice
It is slightly small, but comfortable. But yeah, standing, I do have to be forward a bit. I definitely grip with my legs more on the street, and last longer before I have wrist issues. I will try to change how I ride in dirt. It's only my 4th time out so far.

I might try those grips on my street bike. It's tough to measure because I do have to be riding for a hot minute.

SSH IT ZOMBIE fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Jun 14, 2023

DearSirXNORMadam
Aug 1, 2009
I'm moving soon, and I was going to stuff my bike into the pod/ubox/whatever, but it's taking up a LOT of room in there, so it might be better to ship it as a separate thing. Anyone have a company that you've had a good experience with? Trying to ship SF to DC.

DearSirXNORMadam fucked around with this message at 02:41 on Jun 18, 2023

bengy81
May 8, 2010

Mirconium posted:

I'm moving soon, and I was going to stuff my bike into the pod/ubox/whatever, but it's taking up a LOT of room in there, so it might be better to ship it as a separate thing. Anyone have a company that you've had a good experience with? Trying to ship SF to DC.

I used HAULBIKES last summer, it was like $600 to go from N. Colorado to Richmond VA. Super easy to work with, I had to change my drop off date a few times and they were very accommodating, I basically used them as a storage unit for a month due to closing issues on the new house. They also operate their own haulers instead of contracting out, and their trailers are custom built to handle like 60 bikes, which I thought was kind of cool.

Sounds like you talked yourself out of stuffing it in your POD, but if you need anymore convincing, it's explicitly against the TOS to put any motorized vehicles or lawnmowers in one. Also I packed my goods really well and I had some significant shifting, my kettlebells and enameled cast iron were scuffed to hell when they arrived.

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

Sagebrush posted:

It would depend on the diameters of the tubes and the volume of oil that fits in the bottom versus the top. If it were designed so that 120mm of travel at the bottom raises the oil level at the top 120mm as well, you'd hydrolock and blow out the seals. If the top tube were significantly larger in diameter than the bottom tube, so that 120mm at the bottom is only 60mm in the top, it would be fine.

In your specific case, where it's only a matter of a centimeter or so, I bet there is a difference in volume of oil vs. height in the top and the bottom, and that's why it works.

Late reply, but thank you for the effort post. I more or less already understood all of that, and I am probably just overthinking something that doesn't matter because it turns out Honda knows what it is doing, and my contrived example just leads to disaster and isn't applicable to the real world anyway. The spring also probably displaces relatively little overall volume. If you're making changes to your fork internals you can't necessarily just math it out. You have to go ride and adjust, and a suspension tuner would hopefully have the experience to start with a good base.

RightClickSaveAs posted:

Ah I could see that. Though at the same rider's meetings, they've also been strongly suggesting people not listen to music while out on the track so I think a variety of factors are at play at the ones I go to!

I just found out if you have a GoPro with GPS, you can upload the file to one of the software programs that will extract it for you, I've been playing with one lately and it's a lot of fun. If you set up the camera on a flat surface on your bike, you can also do lean angle which seems pretty accurate. I'm using the GoPro software from Race Technology, it was able to find my track and overlay the session info on it and let you set up lap markers.

I ended up buying a Racebox Mini S. I had assumed something like this would be prohibitively expensive, but I think it's only proper lap timers with transponders that get into $1000+. Lap timers with a display are also often banned from track days afaik because then it can be construed as racing and is outside what the operator is insured for! Anyway, I am happy with it. I didn't record my first two sessions because I didn't understand how it worked :o:

I was hoping to lap around 2:30, but I guess this is OK since it is relatively consistent. I was a little shy on pushing it too much since I crashed at track last month.



You can review each lap, and it will show you speed, acceleration G and either lateral G or lean angle, although I am not sure with the lateral Gs it's properly doing the math to account for lean angle to determine the G at the contact patch vs at where the box is mounted. For example, through turn 8, I am going 79mph with 41˚of lean, and it says my lateral G is 0.03? I don't think so.

Anyway it's cool. You can compare two laps, either by time (visually interesting) or GPS position (useful). Like here you can see just by carrying 4mph more through the corner, I gained almost an entire second. I am aware already this is true, and 4mph is often easier said than done, but it's interesting to see this in my own riding.





Anyway, I would recommend. It is far more useful than a GoPro (except maybe in a crash). Honestly I am so annoyed with my GoPros anyway. I had two of them, and did 3.5hrs of track time, and between the two cameras only managed to successfully record 1 hour :butt:

SSH IT ZOMBIE
Apr 19, 2003
No more blinkies! Yay!
College Slice

Toe Rag posted:

Anyway, I would recommend. It is far more useful than a GoPro (except maybe in a crash). Honestly I am so annoyed with my GoPros anyway. I had two of them, and did 3.5hrs of track time, and between the two cameras only managed to successfully record 1 hour :butt:

Heh, my friend has the same experience at the track with gopros. It's insane, they are not cheap.

DearSirXNORMadam
Aug 1, 2009
Actually yeah, what's the best choice for like dashcam-style cameras these days? I had a gopro for a while but like gently caress that thing was a flaky piece of poo poo, plus the bat life was -_-

SSH IT ZOMBIE
Apr 19, 2003
No more blinkies! Yay!
College Slice
I hear good things about Insta360 but I don't have one.

Geekboy
Aug 21, 2005

Now that's what I call a geekMAN!
I really like my Insta360 One X2, but I’m probably going to add an Osmo Action 3 my partner bought and then kind of forgot about to my helmet during my long trip next week. One of my favorite YouTubers, As the Magpie Flies did a video about why she prefers the Osmo over GoPro.

The footage on the Insta360 can be a little buggy because while the software is surprisingly good at editing 360 into a flat image, it’s still taking a lot of information and then compressing/chucking most of it. The app to edit is really good, though. And I think it’s fun and easy to edit the raw footage into something that moves and has a tight focus.

All of these things have their limits, of course. I’m kind of surprised GoPro keeps their market share given how lovely they seem to be.

KidDynamite
Feb 11, 2005

trying to remote diagnose. friend has a wr250 that won't start the day after it's been exposed to water. while it's raining will start up fine even after stopping for food for an hour. next day no go not even a bump start. he says it's cranking and he can hear the fuel pump just seems like it's not getting spark. what steps would you take to fix this?

he's going to get a new coil and spark plug but that doesn't seem like it will solve the issue to me. if humidity was the problem it wouldn't start while it's raining.

Shelvocke
Aug 6, 2013

Microwave Engraver
Could be water got in the fuel, and while it had been hot it didn't matter, but now it's cold it does
Could be some water leaked around the spark plug
Could be water in the carbs
Could be water shorting the ignition somewhere

Doing the old hold the end of the spark plug against the engine case while kicking to see if you get a spark jump might help see if you've lost ignition (don't do this)

SSH IT ZOMBIE
Apr 19, 2003
No more blinkies! Yay!
College Slice
I don't know if this is a question...but like how do private mechanics lift motorcycles? There is no "standard"

There are spool and fork\swingarm paddock stands that work generically for a lot of bikes
There are headlift stands that require bike specific adapters, but are widely supported
There are weird center cradles that need adapter plates to lift the bike centrally
Center lifts work best on bikes where the engine isn't a stressed frame member

I was checking the steering head bearing play on my Versys X 300...the front end needs to dangle.

I used the built in center stand and weighed the back down with a ratchet strap to have the front lift up.

I don't know what the "right" way to do that would be.

Do shops that work on all bikes just have a ton of bike specific lifting equipment?

SSH IT ZOMBIE
Apr 19, 2003
No more blinkies! Yay!
College Slice

Shelvocke posted:



Doing the old hold the end of the spark plug against the engine case while kicking to see if you get a spark jump might help see if you've lost ignition (don't do this)

They also have a little light for 5 dollars at autozone or harbor freight that does that.
I was gonna reply but didn't, Slavvy will probably appear with esoteric bike specific knowledge. If not, I'd be looking to see if the bike supports obd2 diagnostics or has onboard diagnostics

https://wr250r.com/articles/diagnostics-mode
https://www.thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/576985-wr250rx-diagnostics/

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

KidDynamite posted:

trying to remote diagnose. friend has a wr250 that won't start the day after it's been exposed to water. while it's raining will start up fine even after stopping for food for an hour. next day no go not even a bump start. he says it's cranking and he can hear the fuel pump just seems like it's not getting spark. what steps would you take to fix this?

he's going to get a new coil and spark plug but that doesn't seem like it will solve the issue to me. if humidity was the problem it wouldn't start while it's raining.

I would establish what is actually happening and go from there. Don't assume it has no spark, actually verify if it does or not by holding the plug against the case as mentioned or using a spark gap tool as mentioned. After that you can systematically diagnose it. Shotgunning parts at the problem usually just wastes money. My baseless psychic prediction is water in the fuel.

Scan tools are almost never any help for anything but the WR isn't that smart anyway so it's moot.

SSH IT ZOMBIE posted:

I don't know if this is a question...but like how do private mechanics lift motorcycles? There is no "standard"

There are spool and fork\swingarm paddock stands that work generically for a lot of bikes
There are headlift stands that require bike specific adapters, but are widely supported
There are weird center cradles that need adapter plates to lift the bike centrally
Center lifts work best on bikes where the engine isn't a stressed frame member

I was checking the steering head bearing play on my Versys X 300...the front end needs to dangle.

I used the built in center stand and weighed the back down with a ratchet strap to have the front lift up.

I don't know what the "right" way to do that would be.

Do shops that work on all bikes just have a ton of bike specific lifting equipment?

4 different paddock stands, 2x flat lifting platform thingies, a couple of front wheel cradles, a bottle jack. The way I would do what you were doing is to put it on the center stand and it use a lifting platform or bottle jack to get the front airborne.

E: just remembered I've got an abba stand too for awkward poo poo

Slavvy fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Jun 18, 2023

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cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
I cut down a crutch to the lower leg and just jam it under the bike. Kept the adjustable section for varying bikes. works a treat.

E: against the adv wheelset.

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