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Aquila
Jan 24, 2003

There are some specialty stores about a half hour away. I have today off but really wanted to spend all day playing FF16. Also it's not leaking now.

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Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




I bought a bunch of treated lumber to replace the trim around my garage doors and some other things. The stamp says KD-HT, which I found means it is kiln dried and heat treated to kill insects and whatnot. I'd mentioned using treated lumber earlier in the thread and it was recommended to get KDAT (kiln dried after treatment). From the stamp on my lumber, I don't know if it was kiln dried before or after treating. Is there a way to tell?

I have it stacked and stickered in my detached garage that is probably over 100 degrees, but there isn't much airflow. Should I put a fan out there to increase air circulation? I just stacked them a few minutes ago and am about to collapse from heat stroke, so I didn't seal the ends yet, but I plan to do that later this evening or tomorrow.

Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 23:24 on Jun 22, 2023

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Skunkduster posted:

I bought a bunch of treated lumber to replace the trim around my garage doors and some other things. The stamp says KD-HT, which I found means it is kiln dried and heat treated to kill insects and whatnot. I'd mentioned using treated lumber earlier in the thread and it was recommended to get KDAT (kiln dried after treatment). From the stamp on my lumber, I don't know if it was kiln dried before or after treating. Is there a way to tell?

I have it stacked and stickered in my detached garage that is probably over 100 degrees, but there isn't much airflow. Should I put a fan out there to increase air circulation? I just stacked them a few minutes ago and am about to collapse from heat stroke, so I didn't seal the ends yet, but I plan to do that later this evening or tomorrow.
No, KD-HT is different from KDAT. Treated lumber is still kiln-dried to remove excess water and basically make room for the preservative juice to soak up. It's also easier for the mill to handle all their lumber the same and KD/HT it all to 19% moisture content or w/e. Treating is often done by a third party and not the sawmill itself. They basically buy the same untreated 2x6's that Lowe's buys and then treat them and sell them to Lowes. KDAT lumber is kiln dried a second time after it has been treated, usually down to 12-16% moisture content. If you buy a cheap moisture meter you would be able to tell, but unless you very specifically asked for KDAT, you probably didn't get it. It's much more expensive and much less readily available than regular PT lumber. I don't think LowesDepot even carry it.

The best way to tell if the lumber is dry enough to paint is to dribble some water on it. If it beads up, it needs to dry more. If it pretty quickly soaks into the wood it should be dry enough to paint. Yes, a fan will definitely help, as will opening the doors to exchange the humid inside air (from all the water leaving the wood) for dryer outside air.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
I am looking into finishing part of my basement. Are there are alternatives to drywall that don’t look super cheap? The best thing I come across is making painted judge panels.

I have never done major drywall work and it’s not something I want to deal with right now. I suppose I could always pay a contractor to come in do drywall for me.

Calidus fucked around with this message at 23:54 on Jun 23, 2023

skipdogg
Nov 29, 2004
Resident SRT-4 Expert

Can always use wood paneling like they did back in the day

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000


Ultra Carp
Drywall isn't too expensive, depending on local demand for contractors. If not drywall I second wood paneling. Don't do what the PO of my old place did and use T-111 siding as a basement wall finish

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Calidus posted:

I am looking into finishing part of my basement. Are there are alternatives to drywall that don’t look super cheap? The best thing I come across is making painted judge panels.

I have never done major drywall work and it’s not something I want to deal with right now. I suppose I could always pay a contractor to come in do drywall for me.

You can put materials over drywall which opens up an option here, do a simple level 2 finish. That's what you see in a garage, the seams are taped and the screws have been coated in drywall mud. It's a very fast process overall, and probably meets your local code if it's going to be a permitted project. Then it can be laid over with paneling, acoustic board, fake brick, corregated steel or whatever.

It also gets your feet wet with the process and familiarity with the tools if you are interestes.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Calidus posted:

I am looking into finishing part of my basement. Are there are alternatives to drywall that don’t look super cheap? The best thing I come across is making painted judge panels.

I have never done major drywall work and it’s not something I want to deal with right now. I suppose I could always pay a contractor to come in do drywall for me.
Plywood beadboard looks fine if it's painted. Or painted MDF/masonite with nailed on trim to make it looks like paneling, but that's more work and expense than drywall.

If you have a second pair of hands, hanging drywall isn't bad at all and even alone it's not terrible as long as you aren't doing the ceiling. I actually enjoy finishing drywall and its really not hard.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Plywood beadboard looks fine if it's painted. Or painted MDF/masonite with nailed on trim to make it looks like paneling, but that's more work and expense than drywall.

If you have a second pair of hands, hanging drywall isn't bad at all and even alone it's not terrible as long as you aren't doing the ceiling. I actually enjoy finishing drywall and its really not hard.

I would recommend any first timer get a second pair of hands. The boards are very awkward for anyone who's not built up the right muscle for it. Proper hanging on the wall is top sheet first and it's a son of a bitch.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Plywood beadboard looks fine if it's painted. Or painted MDF/masonite with nailed on trim to make it looks like paneling, but that's more work and expense than drywall.

If you have a second pair of hands, hanging drywall isn't bad at all and even alone it's not terrible as long as you aren't doing the ceiling. I actually enjoy finishing drywall and its really not hard.

Any plans for next weekend?

biceps crimes
Apr 12, 2008


Is mold remediation a total scam? Working on my grandmother's 1950s house and there was some condensate building on a metal duct right above a wall cavity.

The condensate leaks off the duct onto the insulation at a point and that condensate has built up more with the scorching temps recently. The condensate leaks through the top of the closet where the wall meets the ceiling. A very slow leak. Its likely leaked for a few weeks or a couple of months at a time during who knows how many of the past summers and then dries out, it's a 2x2 compartment of an oldschool hallway closet. The compartments below it don't show any signs of any water damage after banging around and poking, and neither does the the opposite wall on the other side of the wall cavity, and nothing around the baseboards either.

The duct insulation wrap around the offending duct was really old and not doing much of anything, so I rewrapped it after having gone through a similar exercise recently with my own house's air handler, and it stopped leaking.

The insulation below the duct had been wet but the wood and everything else seems fine after poking and prodding and jabbing, hard as a rock. The drywall on the opposite side of the wall cavity is firm and looks brand spanking new. It just seems like a little leak in the top of the closet. From the attic, I couldn't see anything aside from wet insulation that's dried out, everything else looks fine.

She's worried though. There was a little box in the top of her closet that had been sitting wet probably since the a/c season kicked in 4 weeks ago and it had mold growing in it when she pulled it out. One of her friends has apparently gone to a functional doctor in the past that told her (the friend) her various ailments were caused by toxic molds and she spent tens of thousands of dollars with mold remediation companies coming in and running dehumidifiers and spraying sealant and ripping the house apart and poo poo.

Just seems like a big dumb waste of time to me. Remove the water source and replace anything that was damaged by the water. I'd probably even leave the top of the closet wall and ceiling alone aside from caulking the joint. IDK, maybe I need to post this in e/n

e: kept typing "pipe" instead of "duct"

biceps crimes fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Jun 24, 2023

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
Mold spores are everywhere, almost literally. That's not to say that it's impossible for mold to cause health problems, but the goal isn't to eliminate mold, rather to bring levels down to where humans can tolerate them. Is your grandmother experiencing any respiratory issues?

biceps crimes
Apr 12, 2008


no, she thinks her fatigue and arthritis could be being exacerbated by an allergy to toxic mold in the wall cavity from the leak because her friend was told that by her naturopath

I guess I'm just double checking that my actions sound sane and that it's not negligent to fix the water source and leave it at that. I'm not going to tear up her closet walls looking for something, and I want to discourage her from paying scammers that want to feed on her fears.

biceps crimes fucked around with this message at 21:43 on Jun 24, 2023

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

biceps crimes posted:

no, she thinks her fatigue and arthritis could be being exacerbated by an allergy to toxic mold in the wall cavity from the leak because her friend was told that by her naturopath

I guess I'm just double checking that my actions sound sane and that it's not negligent to fix the water source and leave it at that. I'm not going to tear up her closet walls looking for something, and I want to discourage her from paying scammers that want to feed on her fears.

If it's just that one little spot, I wouldn't worry about it.

That said, you're dealing with a scared elderly person who is listening to someone they trust (her friend) so it might be worth your while to do a little theater. Cut open the wall near the leak, poke around to show that there's nothing in there but cobwebs and dust, basically just give her some peace of mind. It'll be a mild pain in the rear end patching the dry wall and re-painting, but it could be the quickest way to demonstrate that she's safe.

That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


Cyrano4747 posted:

If it's just that one little spot, I wouldn't worry about it.

That said, you're dealing with a scared elderly person who is listening to someone they trust (her friend) so it might be worth your while to do a little theater. Cut open the wall near the leak, poke around to show that there's nothing in there but cobwebs and dust, basically just give her some peace of mind. It'll be a mild pain in the rear end patching the dry wall and re-painting, but it could be the quickest way to demonstrate that she's safe.

This.

Also get her a dehumidifier

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Yes. It’s a scam.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!

That Works posted:

This.

Also get her a dehumidifier

One that you run a hose directly into the drain so you don’t have worry about emptying it.

MrYenko
Jun 18, 2012

#2 isn't ALWAYS bad...

biceps crimes posted:

…naturopath

:raise:

biceps crimes posted:

…scammers that want to feed on her fears.

Ya it’s this.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

MrYenko posted:

:raise:

Ya it’s this.

This is why cutting open the wall to demonstrate she's fine is likely the way to go.

Basically she's got a friend go was taken by these people, and the friend is going to be 110% convinced that what she did was necessary for her health. This well meaning friend has a personal experience that she's going to talk up, and this can carry a LOT of weight with people. Doubly so elderly people, in my experience.

So on the one hand you can just try to argue with her, which means trying to explain all this stuff and ultimately boils down to asking her to believe that her friend is gullible and wasted tens of thousands of dollars.

Or you can say you take her concerns seriously, offer to spend part of your weekend checking it out for her, and then demonstrate that she's safe. That lets everyone involved paper over the friend's experience as totally justified and not a waste of money at all, while still avoiding turning grandma's home into a construction zone while remediation people pull it down to the studs. All for the cost of some dry wall, a little mud and tape, some paint, and an annoying saturday of cutting and then patching.

edit: pull up some pictures of actual bad mold problems when the wall's open to show her what it looks like. "Oh yeah this spot here is just some old staining, that's nothing, see here this is what it looks like when the whole inside of your wall is fungal hell."

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
Rather put up stud walls I am exploring options for painting my basement walls. I could something fun and paint the conduit a different color. Without stick walls a hanging ceiling tiles becomes somewhere between a pita and impossible right? Without stick walls a floating floor isn’t viable because I have nothing to attach quarter round to.

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
I don't see why you'd would need stick walls for a drop ceiling. If your concrete floor isn't cold or anything you can seal it and put a nice coating on it as well.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Discovered something the other day that is super simple and obvious and just thought I'd share.

We have under cabinet lighting in our kitchen, but I often often use our range hood lights as evening lighting in our kitchen area. The cabinet lights are great and we use them quite a bit, but out of habit from many years of having a house without cabinet lights, I find I just flip the rangehood lights on.

Probably is our ranghood uses a Halogen G4 bulb @ 20ish Watts. Not huge wattage, but it's a small package and they get hot. You can feel the heat pumping out of them even if you hold your hand more than a foot away.

On a whim I checked on Amazon and they make LED bulbs which are the same base but 1.3 watt and throw off comparable light. 5 pack for a whopping $8 delivered.

Plug and play. The bulb is physically a little longer, but the housing they fit into accepts them (although I wouldn't want them to be any longer).

If anyone else is like me and use the range hood lights a lot, might be a something to consider changing. Of course ~40watts isn't a ton of power either way but 2.6w is even less.

Photo with the old halogens in the pack for comparison.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
Same light output? The new led lights on my new samsung microwave are so bright and nice, that alone has made this upgrade an improvement. The old one had halogen too I think and it would actually make the microwave warm inside from the heat output. Side effect, it was good for proofing dough.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Similar but slightly less. Rated @ ~240lm versus ~280 for the halogens.

The color is fairly warm @ 3K which I like. When I first swapped them I only did 1 and the difference was barely noticeable in practice. The halogens were 7 years old too, so not sure if they lose output as they age or not.

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.
I was thinking of doing this myself a while back, but my microwave explicitly says "do not use LED" for the range light. Think it's either in the manual or on a sticker right next to the fixture, can't remember.

It's a 5 year old microwave so it's not ancient or anything.

But that said, I never looked in to that to figure out why. Might be because it has high/low/off settings and LEDs in that package can't cope with it? Or maybe something to do with the heat from the range?

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


DaveSauce posted:

I was thinking of doing this myself a while back, but my microwave explicitly says "do not use LED" for the range light. Think it's either in the manual or on a sticker right next to the fixture, can't remember.

It's a 5 year old microwave so it's not ancient or anything.

But that said, I never looked in to that to figure out why. Might be because it has high/low/off settings and LEDs in that package can't cope with it? Or maybe something to do with the heat from the range?
LED's don't cope with heat nearly as well as incandescents/halogens, but generally it just results in shorter lifespans. They can also be really fickle about dimmers which may be why.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

My hood user manual states to use a halogen bulb, but it's old enough that LEDs weren't really commonplace then like they are now.

Mine only has a simple on/off, not hi/low.

My hood is ~31" over the cooktop. So it would certainly get warm but not crazy hot. Nowhere near as hot as the halogen bulb itself for sure.

e: See ^^ reply now. I've got a couple spares so curious as to the life. I still have the halogens and wore vinyl gloves when removing to not get oils on them, so I can always go back if it becomes a pain in the dick with super short life.

ee:
Here is an old post that has my kitchen in it. The under cabinet lights are on but aren't on the hood in this pic tho :saddowns:

slidebite posted:


Pic of my cluttered kitchen to see what I'm talking about


slidebite fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Jun 27, 2023

urzaserra256
Nov 29, 2009
LEDs also have such a low current draw that that can cause issues, ive heard of people needing to add resistors or something else to get that current draw up.

urzaserra256 fucked around with this message at 03:24 on Jun 28, 2023

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'


DaveSauce posted:

I was thinking of doing this myself a while back, but my microwave explicitly says "do not use LED" for the range light. Think it's either in the manual or on a sticker right next to the fixture, can't remember.

It's a 5 year old microwave so it's not ancient or anything.

But that said, I never looked in to that to figure out why. Might be because it has high/low/off settings and LEDs in that package can't cope with it? Or maybe something to do with the heat from the range?

It is almost certainly the dimming circuit. They don't want people putting in service calls because the "dimmable" LITBRTSTIK brand bulb they got off Amazon for $2 flickers on the low setting.

I am pro shoving LEDs everywhere though. They really change the game for lighting and power usage. I ran the numbers once for adding a timer to some lights that I kept forgetting to turn off and it was pretty much pointless from a cost savings standpoint.

I need to put in some under cabinet lighting. I found an excellent kit of strip lights with integrated diffuser from a good brand but just don't have the time.

totalnewbie
Nov 13, 2005

I was born and raised in China, lived in Japan, and now hold a US passport.

I am wrong in every way, all the damn time.

Ask me about my tattoos.
I've got a light bulb with a 2 button? Post? Socket. As in push into the socket, turn to lock.

1) what are these called?
2) one of the wires came out the back. I don't see an obvious way to repair it but I'm sure I'm missing something. It looks like it's just a hole with no moving parts but the previous owner did sort of a hack job on the light install (the fixture was too recessed into the ceiling so the plate couldn't reach it. Instead of fixing the fixture, he loving rubber cemented the 0late to the ceiling.)

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

totalnewbie posted:

I've got a light bulb with a 2 button? Post? Socket. As in push into the socket, turn to lock.

1) what are these called?
2) one of the wires came out the back. I don't see an obvious way to repair it but I'm sure I'm missing something. It looks like it's just a hole with no moving parts but the previous owner did sort of a hack job on the light install (the fixture was too recessed into the ceiling so the plate couldn't reach it. Instead of fixing the fixture, he loving rubber cemented the 0late to the ceiling.)

1. Bayonet.
2. Pics of the fixture will help. You maybe can replace the whole socket relatively cheap with a couple of splices.

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

LED's don't cope with heat nearly as well as incandescents/halogens, but generally it just results in shorter lifespans. They can also be really fickle about dimmers which may be why.

Shifty Pony posted:

It is almost certainly the dimming circuit. They don't want people putting in service calls because the "dimmable" LITBRTSTIK brand bulb they got off Amazon for $2 flickers on the low setting.

That's kinda what I figured. I don't know much about halogens, but IIRC they require special dimmers as well, and since LEDs get pissy if you feed them the wrong dimmer I suspect you would need the exact right light, and lol if any random homeowner is going to do anything but grab the cheapest LED they find.

Shifty Pony posted:

I am pro shoving LEDs everywhere though. They really change the game for lighting and power usage. I ran the numbers once for adding a timer to some lights that I kept forgetting to turn off and it was pretty much pointless from a cost savings standpoint.

I need to put in some under cabinet lighting. I found an excellent kit of strip lights with integrated diffuser from a good brand but just don't have the time.

I half-assed in some Hue light strips in the kitchen. It's not the "right" solution, but it works for us. No diffuser, cords are bundled up under the cabinets, but whatever. Maybe when we eventually re-do the kitchen I'll run a switch and some receptacles on top of the cabinets or something.

Under cabinet lighting is loving amazing, even if you do a lovely job of it. Just makes the kitchen so much more usable. Highly recommend making the time to do it if you do any amount of cooking.

edit: You can buy aluminum channels with matching diffusers online. So if you have a preferred light strip that doesn't come with a diffuser, you can build something. Hue technically says you can't use a diffuser because of heat concerns, but also it's a bunch of work. Maybe one day I'll get to that...

DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 12:25 on Jun 29, 2023

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'


These are the ones I plan to get:

https://www.armacostlighting.com/collections/complete-led-tape-light-kits/products/cob-white-led-strip-light-kit

My parents installed it under their new cabinets and they seem to do a good job of even lighting without visible bright spots in the reflection:

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015


Shifty Pony posted:

These are the ones I plan to get:

https://www.armacostlighting.com/collections/complete-led-tape-light-kits/products/cob-white-led-strip-light-kit

My parents installed it under their new cabinets and they seem to do a good job of even lighting without visible bright spots in the reflection:



I'm trying to figure out what I want to do for our undercabinet lighting right now, why is this like 10% of the cost of something from Kichler or WAC??

Qwijib0
Apr 10, 2007

Who needs on-field skills when you can dance like this?

Fun Shoe

brugroffil posted:

I'm trying to figure out what I want to do for our undercabinet lighting right now, why is this like 10% of the cost of something from Kichler or WAC??

Half is the quality of the product, half is name. About 5 years ago at this point, I redid some cove lighting in my house and I did half with strip like that and the other half with some philips color kinetics fixtures I found cheap on ebay. The color and lumen consistency of the philips fixtures was better even at the start, and the strip has started to age poorly in some spots.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
I like these https://www.ledsupply.com/led-strips/waterproof-12v-led-strip

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'


brugroffil posted:

I'm trying to figure out what I want to do for our undercabinet lighting right now, why is this like 10% of the cost of something from Kichler or WAC??

It is commodity LED tape and 24V power supplies. The biggest differences would be a lower CRI and a higher chance of failure in a couple years at which point you're less likely to be able to go to the company and get an identical product to just swap in.

Basically not the rock solid "can't go wrong" option to install if you were paid to do a job, and definitely not something you'd want to put in a hard to access location three stories up in the lobby of MegaCorp's new HQ.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

I put a water timer on my hose sprinkler today and noticed it’s creating quite the water hammer when it shuts off.

I have water hammer arrestors on my washing machines hot/cold water. Think the same thing would work for my hose bib outside or is there something else I should be doing?

extravadanza
Oct 19, 2007
Ikea undercabinet lighting worked well for me in my previous house and the wireless on/off switch they have for it worked really well, too.

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BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe
So we saw some mouse droppings and figured we had a mouse. Then tonight I hear it LOUDLY rustling around in the kitchen. Just in time to use my phone and see it scurry under the dishwasher.

I flick on the lights and start to load up the mousetrap with peanut butter. I am talking to my wife with all the lights on. I set it on the ground... Continue my conversation and within like 10 seconds it comes right out in front of both of us in broad daylight and takes the bait. Fastest trap to trash ever.

But honestly I just feel bad now. Is there a way to humanely relocate them next time?

Edit as I typed this #2 went off. drat.

BonoMan fucked around with this message at 04:48 on Jul 1, 2023

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