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 I am having a tough time with d ring placement. 1 may work with wheel chocks. 3 is what I have done in a uhaul but on the walls. Maybe 3 is really best. SSH IT ZOMBIE fucked around with this message at 22:16 on Jun 18, 2023 |
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Jun 18, 2023 21:57
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KidDynamite posted:trying to remote diagnose. friend has a wr250 that won't start the day after it's been exposed to water. while it's raining will start up fine even after stopping for food for an hour. next day no go not even a bump start. he says it's cranking and he can hear the fuel pump just seems like it's not getting spark. what steps would you take to fix this? WR250F or R? Which year? Fuel injected or carbed? What kind of gas does he put into it (ethanol free premium or standard pump gas)? You could always remove the plug and turn it over a few times to push whatever is in the cylinder out. That's pretty common with dirt bikes, I've seen it done a lot on the trail after heavy rain, someone dumping a bike in a puddle, or water crossings. How many times has this happened?
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Jun 18, 2023 22:42
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SSH IT ZOMBIE posted:
https://www.pit-bull.com/motorcycle-trailer-restraints
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Jun 18, 2023 22:45
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Slavvy posted:
That's a lot of stands! This trailer I am building is probably going to function as a portable garage too for projects.
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Jun 19, 2023 00:22
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KidDynamite posted:trying to remote diagnose. friend has a wr250 that won't start the day after it's been exposed to water. while it's raining will start up fine even after stopping for food for an hour. next day no go not even a bump start. he says it's cranking and he can hear the fuel pump just seems like it's not getting spark. what steps would you take to fix this? I had a small saga of my own similar to this. Bike would not start during rain or when it was wet. When I did manage to get it started, the engine would cut out if the RPMs were low enough. The problem, as suspected by others in the thread already, was water in the fuel. The water got into the fuel because the fuel line was old and cracked near its inlet, and it didn't have any kind of security, like a hose clamp, that would have closed off the cracks. So water was just seeping into these open cracks, even though they could barely be seen. Replacing the fuel line and giving it a nice wire clamp* solved the issue. *I'm not sure what they're called; they're like a hose clamp, but made out of three wires instead of a screw-cut metal band. You open it by using a pliers to pinch two tabs closer together, which increases the circumference of the clamp. Then, when you let go, the tension of the metal makes it spring back. SPRING CLAMPS. Is that it?
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Jun 19, 2023 03:09
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Spring clamp/pinch clamp
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Jun 19, 2023 03:13
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Seconding the Pitbull TRS. it is so good, and makes loading and unloading bikes a breeze.
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Jun 19, 2023 03:42
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seems like a wheel chock bolted to the trailer would do 80+% of the work of that pitbull setup at a third of the cost and be far more universal between makes and models. it's a neat system but requiring a different set of pins for different bikes is a pain in the rear end - found this out the hard way when buying an Abba bike lift
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Jun 19, 2023 04:28
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What I've found best is a wheel cradle + canyon dancer style straps secured to loops on either side of the bike. This works for everything except cruisers, where you can't use the bars so you have to hook into the frame somehow, and scooters with 10-12" wheels because the cradle is simply too small to secure the wheel properly. If you can secure the bars and front wheel the rest of the bike doesn't matter, it's not going anywhere.
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Jun 19, 2023 04:32
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Jazzzzz posted:seems like a wheel chock bolted to the trailer would do 80+% of the work of that pitbull setup at a third of the cost and be far more universal between makes and models. it's a neat system but requiring a different set of pins for different bikes is a pain in the rear end - found this out the hard way when buying an Abba bike lift I've done a cross-country move and two bike purchase trips with the $70 Harbor Freight front chock, that thing is rock solid (for street bikes anyway).
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Jun 19, 2023 04:39
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I have canyon dancers. They work great. The pitbull system is great, I would do it if this trailer was dedicated for bikes but I see using it for other things. My buddy is going with pitbull. Option 3 and possibly a wheel chock is best given I don't want to bolt down a pitbull. It's all set! I was stressing because drilling into the floor I just installed is permanent. If this was a dedicated bike trailer and I was doing track days biweekly on a membership, pitbull would be the way to go.
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Jun 19, 2023 04:42
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What about E track just above the floor, along the walls? That's what I was going to use when I had my enclosed trailer. The modularity is great, and a while bunch of other stuff fits it too (think molle webbing, but for trailers).
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Jun 19, 2023 05:55
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Is there anything fairly out of the box that can connect a car driver to a Cardo mesh? Doing a leisurely road trip with friends to the cottage, two of us on bikes and one in a car. Would be fun to have the car join in our sexy chat hotline. Short of anything that actually exists we’ll probably take a spare cardo cradle and hack some 3.5mm jacks to the mic/speaker connectors to see if we can drive a cheap over-ear headphone mic, or maybe a bluetooth aux receiver to connect to a pair or BT earbuds.
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Jun 21, 2023 11:27
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pretty sure regular phones can tap in via bluetooth, if you have the car driver download an intercom app and they've got a hands free setup on the dash the range won't be as good as mesh, but it's something
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Jun 21, 2023 12:19
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If there is phone coverage, you should be able to call in to one of members and they share the call with the mesh. but audio in from the phone call will be active all the time, so more noise and more battery drain.
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Jun 21, 2023 12:45
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Yeah I have a spare cardo and helmet mount so I think I'm just going to hack something together. It looks like Cardo does have some kind of bespoke "pit crew" headphones but they're basically $200 giant over-ear cans with a cardo cradle glued on that look way overkill for this situation. This is probably something I can solve with a $5 throaway amazon headset and 30 minutes with a soldering iron.
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Jun 21, 2023 13:14
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If there’s a universal Bluetooth headset join to mesh function on the cardo system, you can use one of the car Bluetooth hands-free speaker phones and it works pretty well. I’ve used the jabra drive successfully many times before. https://www.jabra.ca/article/best-hands-free-car-kits
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Jun 22, 2023 11:47
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Mirconium posted:I'm moving soon, and I was going to stuff my bike into the pod/ubox/whatever, but it's taking up a LOT of room in there, so it might be better to ship it as a separate thing. Anyone have a company that you've had a good experience with? Trying to ship SF to DC. Little late but I had a great experience shipping my bike from SJ to Seattle with https://www.motoshippers.com/ I used them off a rec of my buddy who had them ship his TFC thruxton from Seattle to LA unblemished. Pretty sure all their haulers for bikes are covered and secure, they even worked with me on a semi aggressive timeline, would have been even cheaper if I wasn’t in as much of a rush to have it picked up.
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Jun 23, 2023 00:00
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My fuel line is wrapped in some protective plastic and routed in between my rear head and carb (the inlet is on the left side of the carb). It's squeezed in there pretty good, these two photos are of the carb pulled slightly out, you can see some pinch marks on the black plastic.  Here's the carb pulled away from the manifold.  I finally had enough of my knee banging against the huge stock air cleaner, bought a new air cleaner which required a bracket to hold the carb in. Now the fuel line is really squashed in there.   The line itself isn't pinched enough to stop the fuel flowing. But I don't like that the fuel line (even with the protective sheath) is touching the head, let alone mashed against it. Maybe there's room to route the line under rather than up and over? But it looks like that would require twisting the inlet down maybe 15-20 degrees.  Can I twist that sucker down without any problems? Or should I just take the loss and find a less dumb bracket?
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Jun 29, 2023 03:44
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That fitting is pressed in so I don't think you can rotate it without consequences. I think if you get rid of the dumb plastic conduit and replace it with a thin metal braided sleeve or similar it would do the trick. That bracket is kind of yuck because the crank case vent just going into the breeze will eventually cover that side of the motor in oil vapor. This doesn't matter if you have a dumb chopper you never ride or a race bike you clean constantly but it's pretty stupid for a street bike you actually use, it's one of those cargo cult things
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Jun 29, 2023 03:56
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Slavvy posted:That fitting is pressed in so I don't think you can rotate it without consequences. I think if you get rid of the dumb plastic conduit and replace it with a thin metal braided sleeve or similar it would do the trick. That bracket is kind of yuck because the crank case vent just going into the breeze will eventually cover that side of the motor in oil vapor. This doesn't matter if you have a dumb chopper you never ride or a race bike you clean constantly but it's pretty stupid for a street bike you actually use, it's one of those cargo cult things Yeah, I'll check how thick the plastic conduit is, makes sense to find something thinner. It's true, the breather bolts (with filters) definitely do a poo poo job, oil vapor's covering everything. I lowered the level in the oil tank towards the bottom of the dipstick (I usually keep it at the halfway mark) and it's better but still poo poo. I'm going to install banjos and route the oil vapors to some catch can. I don't really like the look of some dangling hemorrhoid but maybe I can mount the catch can somewhere sensible.
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Jun 29, 2023 04:15
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Lowering the oil level won't do much, that oil vapor is being forced up there by the pumping action of the giant-rear end pistons. Imo the best way is to route the banjos into a t-fitting, then run a hose from that fitting to a snug hole in the back of the air filter plate or the cone filter itself or whatever it is you're running; the better aftermarket kits account for this problem.
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Jun 29, 2023 04:49
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What’s your take on the claim that routing oil vapors back into the intake/engine (as opposed to a catch can or just venting to atmosphere) is generally bad and leads to excessive carbon buildup on your pistons? Fake news?
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Jun 29, 2023 05:03
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Imo the secret lies in the word 'bad' and the word 'excessive' because those can mean whatever your freedom loving patriotic bald eagle heart tells you. Oil vapor in the intake will have a miniscule impact on making the engine run a little bit leaner but not enough to matter and basically every production vehicle on earth runs some flavour of crank case suction, the differences are purely in implementation, Harley just does a poo poo job for reasons. It will definitely cause measurably more carbon to appear on the piston tops, but that will not lead to any measurable performance degradation. The impact of babying the bike too much or running a poo poo tune or never changing the oil etc is an order of magnitude larger; despite these things being super common, loads of sportsters put up with it and don't really have engine problems to speak of. You're already far ahead of the game there just by virtue of giving any kind of a gently caress. I have never seen 'too much carbon on the pistons' as a root cause of anything, it's always just an indicator of something else and doesn't have any impact in itself. Imo the biggest issue you get is oil showering the carb bellmouth and slide, this sucks to deal with as a mechanic and can exacerbate problems if the bike already has one of the aforementioned crippling issues. But every factory Harley is already set up like this and it's not really a problem so...
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Jun 29, 2023 05:16
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Are two-stroke triples ideally balanced in the same way four-stroke I6es are?
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Jun 30, 2023 02:18
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I don't think so. With three cylinders you've got a lengthwise rocking moment -- it doesn't matter where the power strokes are, since it's just about the movement of the piston masses. An I6 is basically two mirrored I3s mounted end to end, so those rocking moments cancel out. Maybe there are other reasons too.
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Jun 30, 2023 02:56
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The reciprocating parts on a stroker tend to be much lighter which mitigates a lot of balancing issues also
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Jun 30, 2023 03:53
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Phy posted:Are two-stroke triples ideally balanced in the same way four-stroke I6es are? Movement of the mass is what's relevant for balance, doesn't matter if it goes pop every revolution or every other.
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Jun 30, 2023 08:12
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My little China bike, the evap canister was bad out the factory. No purge solenoid, the air intake would randomly clog with whatever mechanical valve was inside and the gas tank would pull a vacuum until the carb ran dry. My 2020 Kawasaki has some sort of emissions issue I haven't hosed with. The gas evaporates and creates a positive pressure in the tank after riding or if sitting. I hear vapor pressure sneaking past some sort of seal when moving the bike around. The thing sorta smells like gas, much worse than my China bike that I just ran one way check valves in lieu of the canister. It's done it since day one, probably not bad enough where there is an active vacuum leak riding around. I feel like bike emissions systems are there to checkbox the box. Beyond that, they just seem faulty and problem prone as a general statement? Not sure if that is a unique experience for me? The china bike I left the SAI on, and put a harley style catalytic baffle midpipe. I don't hate the planet but they have to do better...the stock pipe was hilariously mig welded nearly shut. SSH IT ZOMBIE fucked around with this message at 17:28 on Jun 30, 2023 |
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Jun 30, 2023 17:24
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Not an expert, but I've read a lot on them and yet to see anyone put forward a reason for keeping an evap system which isn't legal compliance (if anyone's checking) and environmental. One can maybe argue the vapor recapture is a tiny thing relative to the globe, but it's still a good thing. The few CA riders I've known deleted them as a matter of course when they get a bike, being added complexity and weight (oh no!). They're not inherently bad. I had a '98 GS500e that got up to 19k before I sold it, never a single issue or reason to bother loving with it. It's currently random stalling suspect #1 on the VanVan, because most of my at-speed stalls have been after filling the tiny gas tank to the neck (aka overfilling) before a long ride, or large ambient temp change, when I think it might have been getting gas into the canister. But even that's not necessarily an evap system issue per se. I stopped filling it higher than the manual says last fall, if I get through this summer without a stall that was the problem.
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Jun 30, 2023 19:23
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I certainly didn't delete the EVAP system on my motorcycle, but if I did, I would have done so because it's a huge octopus spider web of extra hoses crawling all over the engine that makes it a gigantic pain to work on the bike for the sole benefit of recapturing 1 ml of gasoline vapor per month.
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Jun 30, 2023 19:30
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Sagebrush posted:I certainly didn't delete the EVAP system on my motorcycle, but if I did, I would have done so because it's a huge octopus spider web of extra hoses crawling all over the engine that makes it a gigantic pain to work on the bike for the sole benefit of recapturing 1 ml of gasoline vapor per month. Monster!
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Jun 30, 2023 19:34
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The 950's evap system is a cumbersome bunch of plumbing that reminisces that of the rx7's emissions system. There's at least a dozen one way valves, cans in both upper fairings, and a couple solenoids to make it all work poorly. Fun failure modes were fuel volcanoes spewing fuel when one of its two fuel caps were opened because the two tanks had differential pressures Vacuums being pulled on both tanks causing hard to repeat stalling problems. Fuel leaks from the left side tank cap valves (there's 3) on the side stand Fuel equalization issues when the carbon can was contaminated with fuel. Primarily when the tanks were just filled and the bike is parked. There's numerous tiny passages in the fuel tanks and the caps that will clog with dust (it is intended to go on dirt roads) that will cause random hard to repeat issues with the fuel delivery system, aka the carburetors. The dealer solution was to drill a hole in both tanks and stick a hose between them to solve for 90% of the problems. This too would leak fuel over a hot engine but only when the tanks were more than 80% full. Also the same fill level that would cause problems with the evap system. This junk had long failed before I came into the ownership of this bike. So yea don't feel bad about deleting this primitive rear end poo poo, it pales in comparison to what cars get because they have the room for it.
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Jun 30, 2023 19:38
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epswing posted:Yeah, I'll check how thick the plastic conduit is, makes sense to find something thinner. The plastic conduit is pretty thin, replacing it didn't look like it'd give me any meaningful additional clearance. After considering my options, I chanced rotating the brass fitting, seems to be ok, now nothing's touching any hot parts. We'll see if the fitting fails and dumps a tank full of gas on the garage floor  truthfully though I always shut my petcock off when I park because either the the float needle or the fuel inlet or the petcock vacuum diaphragm is going to fail sooner or later and I don't particularly want the whole tank drained out.  Here's the damage to the rocker cover, courtesy of the stock fuel line routing. 
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Jul 3, 2023 04:14
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Is that a……..load bearing banjo bolt? 
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Jul 3, 2023 13:06
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Beve Stuscemi posted:Is that a……..load bearing banjo bolt? Mmm, so the carb is a spigot mount and needs a bracket to hold it in place, and the air cleaner/filter hangs off the other side of the bracket. My AC is small and light, I wouldn’t say there’s much of a load (but what do I know). The bracket is fastened to the crankcase breathers, and the (hollow) fasteners (breather bolts) go through banjos which route the oil vapor elsewhere. Finished product:   The stock setup is the same except the AC is bigger, and the breather bolts just expel oil vapor directly into the air filter (no banjos needed). My main motivation through all this is just to have a smaller AC that my knee doesn’t touch, which means I have to route that oil vapor somewhere. I tried venting to atmosphere first via little filter screens but they don’t work worth a drat. epswing fucked around with this message at 15:34 on Jul 3, 2023 |
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Jul 3, 2023 14:04
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At least its a breather and not something terribly critical to the engine, like an oil line
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Jul 3, 2023 16:58
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Beve Stuscemi posted:Is that a……..load bearing banjo bolt? New thead title but it has to include the emoji 
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Jul 3, 2023 17:39
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Is there a functional point to bar end mirrors? Do they provide a better angle or something, or is purely some retro style element that eludes me?
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Jul 4, 2023 14:39
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morothar posted:Is there a functional point to bar end mirrors? Do they provide a better angle or something, or is purely some retro style element that eludes me? It is mostly style but they do put the point of reference further wider so you can see directly behind you easier/different angles. There absolutely is a practical use to ones that have some surface area to them and mount solidly enough to not vibrate to hell.
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Jul 4, 2023 15:09
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