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tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



GreenBuckanneer posted:






There has got to be a way to apply red in less layers, right? should I have done a brown undercoat first?
What red paint are you using? How many coats did you do?

I mean yes you probably would find it easier over a brown but I would think that say Mephiston Red would cover well in 2-3 coats in this scenario.

edit: added quote for new page

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GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

tangy yet delightful posted:

What red paint are you using? How many coats did you do?

I mean yes you probably would find it easier over a brown but I would think that say Mephiston Red would cover well in 2-3 coats in this scenario.

edit: added quote for new page

the body is about 5 or 6? coats...I stopped counting though, so it might be 1-2 more. It's now at the level of "give up and move on"

the rest are 2 coats minimum on everything else.

it's ProAcryl red

Edit this white has also been a struggle, at least four layers here

GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 05:57 on Jul 12, 2023

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Brown or even a dark red is a fine undercoat for red. Brown is also a fine undercoat for a warm white. Dark blue is good for a cold white. You rarely want to just slam bright colours on top of black primer.

Winklebottom
Dec 19, 2007

Yeah, you don't want to go straight for a bright paint, they usually cover quite poorly. For red, I mostly use Khorne Red or Mephiston Red as a base, they usually cover black in 1-2 layers.

For cold white, Celestra Grey is a magic basecoat. Haven't found any white or grey that covers quite as nice as that one. For a warm white, I'd start with a sandy/beige color, something like Zandri Dust or Vallejo German Camouflage Beige WWII.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Winklebottom posted:

Yeah, you don't want to go straight for a bright paint, they usually cover quite poorly. For red, I mostly use Khorne Red or Mephiston Red as a base, they usually cover black in 1-2 layers.

For cold white, Celestra Grey is a magic basecoat. Haven't found any white or grey that covers quite as nice as that one. For a warm white, I'd start with a sandy/beige color, something like Zandri Dust or Vallejo German Camouflage Beige WWII.

I'll have to try that next time, not starting over but good to retain.

That's the thing is while the color of some citadel paints is "bad" they're very opaque (usually) so I agree with you in that I probably should have done that first

Majkol
Oct 17, 2016
The best undercoat under red Ive ever used was the old GW Scorched Brown. It made the reds layered over it look rich and luxurious. I guess the current equivalent would be Rhinox Hide?

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




Eej posted:

This post just reminded me that I got my Badger 105 like 3 years ago now and maybe it's time to get a nice airbrush for myself and do more than just prime and zenithal.

A 105 can do a lot more than just priming and zenithal. Down around 10psi appropriately thin paint (Vallejo Air) goes on easy, and you have a lot more control than you've been using for just priming and zenithal. I recommend going back to a piece of scrap cardboard and seeing how fine a line you can do with the 105. You might need to mask some bits, but you have a lot of room to expand your technique.

Both of these 1/144 planes were painted with my 105.



The cammo colors on the biplane look much better in person.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
It's too late I already sent my money to a children's hospital in Kyiv

Yeast
Dec 25, 2006

$1900 Grande Latte

Majkol posted:

The best undercoat under red Ive ever used was the old GW Scorched Brown. It made the reds layered over it look rich and luxurious. I guess the current equivalent would be Rhinox Hide?

Yep

Mercurius
May 4, 2004

Amp it up.

Eej posted:

It's too late I already sent my money to a children's hospital in Kyiv
The infinity is a really nice airbrush, I love mine. I think you’ll enjoy it a lot.

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007





Painted this total cutie

Shoehead
Sep 28, 2005

Wassup, Choom?
Ya need sumthin'?

Lamuella posted:

I love the fake names for these knockoffs. Weprintminiatures do a wide range of Arnold Schwarzeneggers from different movies and they're all called Barry Mcguffin.

https://weprintminiatures.com/products/barry-mcguffin-future-war-scifi-miniatures

Welp now I have some more mens to paint..

Beffer
Sep 25, 2007

Majkol posted:

The best undercoat under red Ive ever used was the old GW Scorched Brown. It made the reds layered over it look rich and luxurious. I guess the current equivalent would be Rhinox Hide?

Richard Grey starts almost everything with black primer followed by a scratchy coat of thinned Rhinox Hide.

In other words, yes.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

GreenBuckanneer posted:

the body is about 5 or 6? coats...I stopped counting though, so it might be 1-2 more. It's now at the level of "give up and move on"

the rest are 2 coats minimum on everything else.

it's ProAcryl red

Edit this white has also been a struggle, at least four layers here


That's too many coats dude.

You could have saved a lot of time, effort, and brush work by just sponging on colors from dark to light. It would have made a much more interesting texture without brush lines. Or the same thing but with a brush

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dogLPMCOr1c

Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008

Cease to Hope posted:

okay like none of this is true

in traditional art, a limited palette is using a limited set of primary pigments that create an overall effect defined by the limitations of those pigments. but you do actually mix those pigments. on minis, most likely we are not doing that. i mean you can if you want but idk why you'd mix your paints from the primary pigments with quick drying acrylics.

instead using a limited palette on minis with hobby acrylics means limiting yourself to give the same effect as a limited palette. this is not painting all of your dudes the same main color, but rather choosing the colors that you would naturally have if your yellow primary was warmer or cooler or your blue primary was brilliant or soft or whatever.

you can take art classes to see what various pigments can do but you can get like 80% of the effect by picking about 4-6 paints that look good together (your hues), a tint (white or something close), and a shade (a black or dark grey, or even a brown or a purple). rather than fooling with primaries like you're painting a painting, you're skipping a step ahead and only mixing your (probably half or mostly secondary) hues with your tint and shade. you can mix your hues too, you just probably want fewer of them if you do that.

at this point you can use the good old base-shade-rebase-highlight wargamer classic. as long as you pick citadel-style triads that match your hues mixed with your tint/shade colors, you can just use those. the point is not literally less containers of paint (since these triads are just readymade versions of the ways both fine artists and wargamers mix their paints as needed anyway) but rather fewer overall hues.

there are two cool benefits of this.

first, if you're disciplined and do not give into "well, maybe one more color" (too often), it will make your whole army look cohesive without needing to all be the same color. wargamers obviously benefit from all of their work look cohesive! not only that, but it gives you more freedom to experiment with which colors are the main ones, because the warm yellow details on one squad match with the dominant warm yellow on the tank.

second, it is so much less hassle. you have so many fewer paint pots to sift through and so much less worrying about finding the perfect color. you can just put away the bulk of your paint collection and focus on arranging the colors you already decided on. (this also dampens the temptation to buy new paints midproject. a little. i've heard.)

a nice side benefit is that you really get to appreciate the qualities of a particular paint. you really get to see VMC's sunbeaten dull mattes or citadel's bold satin colors with just the weirdest mixes sometimes. (how is orruk green a warm pea green? wizardry i swear.) also how VMC pale sand is skill in a bottle 2.0.

there is some more advanced parts of this and i'm not gonna pretend to have a keen grasp of all that but it is a tool you can you to achieve both consistency and ease of use.

Sorry, I think you're totally missing what I'm saying. I'm a professional artist and teach painting, I teach working from a limited palette of primaries, white, and black. I feel like you are essentially repeating what I'm saying but making it way more complicated and not really what people mean conversationally. You are correct that you can have a massive paint collection and still work from a limited palette, either by limiting hues within a project, or within your paint collection overall. However, if another artist and I talk about working from a limited palette, we most often mean working from your preferred primaries, plus of course white and black, mixing colors as you go, and importantly, that you almost exclusively work this way, generally not changing your palette project to project. It is a way artists add a visual signature to their work. As I said, in mini painting that is way less important, so moving away from my strict limited palette has been very freeing.

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes

mllaneza posted:

A 105 can do a lot more than just priming and zenithal. Down around 10psi appropriately thin paint (Vallejo Air) goes on easy, and you have a lot more control than you've been using for just priming and zenithal. I recommend going back to a piece of scrap cardboard and seeing how fine a line you can do with the 105. You might need to mask some bits, but you have a lot of room to expand your technique.

Both of these 1/144 planes were painted with my 105.



The cammo colors on the biplane look much better in person.

It's true you can get great detail results with a 105, correct PSI/Paint combo and some practice, but i also recently sent my money to a Kiev hospital and the Infinity is so nice. I was afraid it would be difficult to clean and maintain but it's actually easier than my badgers.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Spanish Manlove posted:

That's too many coats dude.

You could have saved a lot of time, effort, and brush work by just sponging on colors from dark to light. It would have made a much more interesting texture without brush lines. Or the same thing but with a brush

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dogLPMCOr1c

Well it'll be good for later, I didn't think of applying it that way

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004
Probation
Can't post for 18 days!
I buy more paints than I'll probably ever need or use, mainly because I'm lazy and only mix when I absolutely can't find the exact shade I'm picturing in my mind, or if it's a one-off thing (like a mini for a D&D game) that isn't part of a larger army with a need for a cohesive look.

This is not me pooh-poohing the idea or usefulness of using a limited palette by any means; just purely for the novelty of experimenting once, I painted a D&D monk (think like your traditional brown-robed monks, just with more hair) using nothing but various shades of brown to do basecoats and highlights and shades (with the only exception being a reddish flesh wash over the skin). If I can find a picture of it, I'll share it. It was an interesting experiment that I should try repeating one of these days.

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Guys, I'm making a female space marine for my Deathwatch and I can't decide on what cool pose to use or if either look cool. Someone pipe in and help me decide?

A. or B.

I'll probably replace the bolt pistol with a plasma pistol if I go with A.

Majkol
Oct 17, 2016
I really like A, she looks purposeful and determined.

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Majkol posted:

I really like A, she looks purposeful and determined.

I also like A better.

Arcturas
Mar 30, 2011

I prefer A because it make the neck look better, I think, though that could just be the photo angle.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I don't like A because her face is kind of small in-between shoulder plates, so it's blocked off

Zuul the Cat
Dec 24, 2006

Grimey Drawer

GreenBuckanneer posted:

the body is about 5 or 6? coats...I stopped counting though, so it might be 1-2 more. It's now at the level of "give up and move on"

the rest are 2 coats minimum on everything else.

it's ProAcryl red

Edit this white has also been a struggle, at least four layers here


I've painted a lot of white armor, so I figured I could throw in my two cents and what's worked for me - I'm a huge fan of Corax White from Citadel. It dries out really fast in the pot, but it goes on smoothly and you don't need a ton of basecoats. I usually apply it slightly thinned out.

My Spirit Otter
Jun 15, 2006


CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.

Sydney Bottocks posted:

I buy more paints than I'll probably ever need or use, mainly because I'm lazy and only mix when I absolutely can't find the exact shade I'm picturing in my mind, or if it's a one-off thing (like a mini for a D&D game) that isn't part of a larger army with a need for a cohesive look.

this is why i dont really like mixing colours unless its for shading. gotta have that uniform look

Termyie
Aug 18, 2022

Always choose violence.

tangy yet delightful posted:

Please post an update after the battle.

3 Furisos, 3 DC Dreads and 3 Librarian Dreads was interesting. Struggled on the OBJs with the DC Dreads when the Chaplin got oneshoted by a Hammerhead, but Librarian Dreads did work on the Fire Warriors and Pathfinder teams. Stealth Suits did wreak them really hard, I had 2 Furisos and 1 Librarian Dreads at the end of the game. I might have lost in VP and CP, but I won a moral victory by nuking his Commander Farsight with Blood Talons and melta fire.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004
Probation
Can't post for 18 days!

My Spirit Otter posted:

this is why i dont really like mixing colours unless its for shading. gotta have that uniform look

Yeah, I don't mind slight variations when it comes to certain armies, like if Termagant #4 is a shade lighter than the three preceding it, but overall I'd rather just reach for a color instead of mixing.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Shoehead posted:

Welp now I have some more mens to paint..

The designer of that miniature, Papsikels, they do a lot of pop culture stuff. Aliens, Terminator, and a lot of Predator. They even have some bizzaro pin-up predator lady models.

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

Does anyone have any tips on making these models pop a bit more? They are white undercoat with contrast paints on top. Generally I’m happy with the palette, although I think it could be blended better, but it just doesn’t seem to have the variation in tone I’m hoping for - it’s all a bit uniform:



I’m pretty happy with highlighting, but I just don’t know how to make it work with contrast paints!?

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004
Probation
Can't post for 18 days!

IncredibleIgloo posted:

The designer of that miniature, Papsikels, they do a lot of pop culture stuff. Aliens, Terminator, and a lot of Predator. They even have some bizzaro pin-up predator lady models.



They were one of the first 3D makers I bought stuff from when I started resin printing. They used to primarily do "cyberpunk" minis, and then at some point they sort of leaned into the pop culture-type stuff that you mentioned, and apparently never looked back. It's been a while, I need to give them a look-see again sometime here.

Toebone
Jul 1, 2002

Start remembering what you hear.

Southern Heel posted:

Does anyone have any tips on making these models pop a bit more? They are white undercoat with contrast paints on top. Generally I’m happy with the palette, although I think it could be blended better, but it just doesn’t seem to have the variation in tone I’m hoping for - it’s all a bit uniform:



I’m pretty happy with highlighting, but I just don’t know how to make it work with contrast paints!?

Try drybrushing or edge highlighting with an off-white/pale sand, then doing another coat of the contrasts on top.

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat

Southern Heel posted:

Does anyone have any tips on making these models pop a bit more?

One of the things I like to do if I'm not sure a model 'pops' enough is throw it in GIMP to desaturate it; and see if the values of my colors are different or if it just looks flat.



If it looks flat, or if the mini sort-of blends into the base, it means that there's not enough contrast between your colors so nothing's really going to pop.


In your case, I think I'd recommend a darker color on the base.


Edit: This is also where careful edge highlighting can really help you define shapes and make them pop, too.

Here's one of mine that uses similar colors, just for comparison. The value difference doesn't have to be huge, just enough to help the eye define what it's seeing.



It can also work in reverse, if the central focus (in this case, the Aboleth's eye) is darker than everything else.

PoptartsNinja fucked around with this message at 20:07 on Jul 12, 2023

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



Termyie posted:

3 Furisos, 3 DC Dreads and 3 Librarian Dreads was interesting. Struggled on the OBJs with the DC Dreads when the Chaplin got oneshoted by a Hammerhead, but Librarian Dreads did work on the Fire Warriors and Pathfinder teams. Stealth Suits did wreak them really hard, I had 2 Furisos and 1 Librarian Dreads at the end of the game. I might have lost in VP and CP, but I won a moral victory by nuking his Commander Farsight with Blood Talons and melta fire.

Blood Angels always win when death is happening.

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

Sydney Bottocks posted:

They were one of the first 3D makers I bought stuff from when I started resin printing. They used to primarily do "cyberpunk" minis, and then at some point they sort of leaned into the pop culture-type stuff that you mentioned, and apparently never looked back. It's been a while, I need to give them a look-see again sometime here.

I have a bunch of their designs. Questionable taste in slapping books on random pop culture references aside, they actually do know how to make designs that are very functional once printed - all the details come through nicely and the figures are very well defined.

Here's one I did a while back



PoptartsNinja posted:

Edit: This is also where careful edge highlighting can really help you define shapes and make them pop, too.

Here's one of mine that uses similar colors, just for comparison. The value difference doesn't have to be huge, just enough to help the eye define what it's seeing.



It can also work in reverse, if the central focus (in this case, the Aboleth's eye) is darker than everything else.

That's a :allears: set of eyes. Where'd you get the inspiration?

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Southern Heel posted:

Does anyone have any tips on making these models pop a bit more? They are white undercoat with contrast paints on top. Generally I’m happy with the palette, although I think it could be blended better, but it just doesn’t seem to have the variation in tone I’m hoping for - it’s all a bit uniform:



I’m pretty happy with highlighting, but I just don’t know how to make it work with contrast paints!?

Something I've found that helped a ton with adding vibrancy and interest to contrast paints was selectively undercoating the model. It's also why the slapchop method is a lot better than using contrast paints over a flat basecoat. Basically you want to have a value sketch (black/white layout) before applying the contrast, which acts like a color filter. Then you can dial this up even more by adding hue to the value sketch which will interact with the contrast paint color filters to make fun effects. So for example, on these nurgle guys I was going to use plaguebearer flesh contrast paint over a majority of the models. It's a sickly yellow green color that's relatively transparent. When that color mixes with blue it becomes more greenish, and when it mixes with red it becomes more brown. Then because the contrast color filter dials down the vibrancy an intensely vibrant undercoat is needed

Spanish Manlove posted:

Its a lot of colors. And a lot of haphazard wet blending. You can punch up some of the highlights afterward but it's already so obnoxiously colored that I didn't think it needed any more

Prime black. Wet blend a bright blue and bright magenta on the model to make zones of highlight and shadow. Then do a zenithal drybrush of zandri dust, ice yellow, white as made famous in the SlapChop videos. Goal of this stage is to emulate the way craft world studio shades their stuff while having a platform to use contrast paints over. The magenta/purple will mix with the further contrast paints and make interesting warm shadows while the blue/purple will make shadows in the highlights that are cold and still contrasting.

Skin is just straight plaguebearer flesh. All the bright areas are a wet blend of various contrast paints: luxion purple, kroxigar scales, aeldari emerald, vulpus pink, terradon turquoise. To make the boils and wounds look inflamed I use scale 75 instant paint Dragons Blood applied lightly or targor rage shade applied lightly. The corpulent skin on the guy tucked in the abdomen is just that blood color then some light layers of AK buff and then a really subtle highlight of Vallejo nocturna pale flesh. Tentacles on the face are doomfire magenta thinned with contrast medium. The hood was originally leviadon blue thinned with contrast medium but I didn't like that so I covered it with black templar and manually highlighted the leather with some blues. The orange fish is just straight magmadroth flame. The bright green is just striking scorpion green. That didn't come out bright enough on the head horn so I highlighted with livery green and ice yellow.

Overall it's just sorta winging it and having fun making something out of a coral reef. I've been trying to make super bright models recently and if you actually read back in the thread you can see the rest of these guys.

Here's the initial step


Here's a wip once I got the tentacles done


Here's a nurgling covered in magenta and zenithal drybrush prepped NOTE 07/12/23: THIS IS THE VALUE SKETCH I"M TALKING ABOUT


Another dude with the same idea


The two paints I undercoated with


Here's a final version of the tentacle guy to show how the undercoating is still kinda visible in spots like the armpits

Spanish Manlove posted:

WIP of the next group of gellerpox





If you look at the butt cheeks and armpits on this last picture you'll see that the yellow green plaguebearer is over a bright blue which makes a bright green on the butt cheek, while the armpit is more brown because the plaguebearer is over bright magenta. Then on the main surfaces the skin is yellow-green because its applied over a white/offwhite

So add some color vibrancy under your contrast paint. You can then also manually add highlights afterward but this is so much easier

Spanish Manlove fucked around with this message at 21:02 on Jul 12, 2023

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Virtual Russian posted:

Sorry, I think you're totally missing what I'm saying.

oh, fair. well, hopefully that post is useful to someone, anyhow.

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat

Z the IVth posted:

That's a :allears: set of eyes. Where'd you get the inspiration?

Sheep eyes are creepy, but they're even creepier turned vertical like a snake. And when that didn't feel quite weird enough I added a geometric shape in the center (a diamond) to give a really alien sharp point to something that shouldn't normally have a sharp point.

Shoehead
Sep 28, 2005

Wassup, Choom?
Ya need sumthin'?

IncredibleIgloo posted:

The designer of that miniature, Papsikels, they do a lot of pop culture stuff. Aliens, Terminator, and a lot of Predator. They even have some bizzaro pin-up predator lady models.



I got Cloud, Tifa, what I think is a Boomer from Bubblegum Panic? and 3 of their fake NCPD patrol men.

Not for any real reason, I just wanna paint em all


I'm not sure if it's the same sculptor but I did notice on that site there's female versions of hero quest models, dame poses and all and while female versions of classic models are cool they could probably do with wearing more clothes.

That said I was this close to grabbing a legally distinct He-man so I could practice painting bare skin so can I really say anything?

Shoehead fucked around with this message at 23:01 on Jul 12, 2023

Lamuella
Jun 26, 2003

It's like goldy or bronzy, but made of iron.


Shoehead posted:

I got Cloud, Tifa, what I think is a Boomer from Bubblegum Panic? and 3 of their fake NCPD patrol men.

Not for any real reason, I just wanna paint em all


I'm not sure if it's the same sculptor but I did notice on that site there's female versions of hero quest models, dame poses and all and while female versions of classic models are cool they could probably do with wearing more clothes.

That said I was this close to grabbing a legally distinct He-man so I could practice painting bare skin so can I really say anything?

wepaintminiatures have a £10 random box where you get 3 minis a month. It's usually a way for them to use up spares on their print runs, but it can include some fun stuff, like the Kingdom Hearts Cloud where he has the one wing and the bandaged sword.

They do sometimes run a bit... cheesecakey. I occasionally have to resort to kitbashing so that I don't have a woman in full plate who somehow has her arse hanging out.

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Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Shoehead posted:

I got Cloud, Tifa, what I think is a Boomer from Bubblegum Panic? and 3 of their fake NCPD patrol men.

Not for any real reason, I just wanna paint em all


I'm not sure if it's the same sculptor but I did notice on that site there's female versions of hero quest models, dame poses and all and while female versions of classic models are cool they could probably do with wearing more clothes.

That said I was this close to grabbing a legally distinct He-man so I could practice painting bare skin so can I really say anything?

If you like painting fantasy minis too and want some non-cheesecake lady minis, I'd recommend D&D IS a Woman - it's a branch of The Printing Goes Ever On, and each month they put out a new mini. There's a bunch of different races, classes, and even cultural styles. The 28mm versions I feel need some up-scaling because some of the details are a bit fiddly - I usually do 120%

I printed a 75mm version of their dwarf cleric over the weekend:

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