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KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
"proximity to my home/work" is possibly one of the worst ways to pick a shop

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Uthor
Jul 9, 2006

Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

Why would you let a Firestone joint touch anything on your car other than the tires

The one by my mom's house took like 2 hours to mount and balance some tires on wheels that were already off the car. The indie tire place down the road does it in minutes for 75% the cost.

My mom went to them for an oil change (I would have warned her if I knew) and came back with a $300 bill after they talked her into doing an alignment (30,000 miles!) and charging $25 to change her wiper blades (any parts shop does it for free if you ask).

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Not sure where else to put this, but what are the pros and cons of using loctite on Exhaust manifold studs?
Specifically the threads that go in to the head, not the ends that the nuts thread on to.

Seems like so many exhaust manifold studs get seized on there, so why make it worse with thread locker, but then the heat when its running might make the tread locker useless anyway since heat is how you get it to loosen when you need to remove things with thread locker on them. But then, maybe the thread locker keeps rust and poo poo at bay and prevents things from seizing in the first place?

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Ambassadorofsodomy posted:

Not sure where else to put this, but what are the pros and cons of using loctite on Exhaust manifold studs?
Specifically the threads that go in to the head, not the ends that the nuts thread on to.

Seems like so many exhaust manifold studs get seized on there, so why make it worse with thread locker, but then the heat when its running might make the tread locker useless anyway since heat is how you get it to loosen when you need to remove things with thread locker on them. But then, maybe the thread locker keeps rust and poo poo at bay and prevents things from seizing in the first place?

Use copper anti-seize for that.

Henrik Zetterberg
Dec 7, 2007

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

"proximity to my home/work" is possibly one of the worst ways to pick a shop

Yes I agree. However, I have a lot of kids from teens to toddlers and sometimes proximity wins over a better shop. Not saying you’re wrong at all, but my kid logistics this week required something closer. And yes, I understand the irony of it going on day 5 without my family car. I will be going elsewhere from now on.


Anyway, separate question.

I have a 2016 Subaru WRX Limited that has had a driver-side rattle in the rear quarter panel for a while now due to said lack of free time because of kids. When I’m in gear (manual) and slowing down when I’m approaching a red light or whatever, something is rattling like crazy around 2400 RPM and also down around 1800. It’s driving me loving crazy and I’ve finally opened up the trunk and pulled the liners out to see what it could be.

There’s this hose that looks like it’s running from the front, down to the area where one of my mufflers are. Is it some sort of sensor hose? I think it’s just rattling against the metal frame. If this is indeed the culprit, how can I secure it better?

https://imgur.com/a/N3dC117

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



Uthor posted:

The one by my mom's house took like 2 hours to mount and balance some tires on wheels that were already off the car. The indie tire place down the road does it in minutes for 75% the cost.

My mom went to them for an oil change (I would have warned her if I knew) and came back with a $300 bill after they talked her into doing an alignment (30,000 miles!) and charging $25 to change her wiper blades (any parts shop does it for free if you ask).

Alignment check for 30k miles doesn’t seem unreasonable. Most alignments that are a bit off center will have zero noticeable symptoms but if they have the laser rig and the customer will buy the upsell, I don’t see the issue. I hit a lot of unavoidable potholes so my alignment gets a bit into the yellow range, I bought the 3 year package and check it once a year or so.

If it’s 100% highway travel with no potholes, then yeah unlikely to be needed and the laser should show green.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
I've lived a substantial amount of my time on dirt roads in New England, :wrongcity:, and Southeast Michigan so I pretty much plan on an annual alignment.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

opengl posted:

Use copper anti-seize for that.

Thanks, I was wondering which I should use (lead or copper) if I didn't go with loctite, but i was actually wondering if it would keep the studs from walking out of the head. But maybe I won't have an issue since I used top lock nuts instead of the split lockwashers or the nothing that someone used previously.

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy

Ambassadorofsodomy posted:

Thanks, I was wondering which I should use (lead or copper) if I didn't go with loctite, but i was actually wondering if it would keep the studs from walking out of the head. But maybe I won't have an issue since I used top lock nuts instead of the split lockwashers or the nothing that someone used previously.

I think usually the biggest problem with those studs is actually getting them out, hence the anti-seize

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Ambassadorofsodomy posted:

Not sure where else to put this, but what are the pros and cons of using loctite on Exhaust manifold studs?
Specifically the threads that go in to the head, not the ends that the nuts thread on to.

Seems like so many exhaust manifold studs get seized on there, so why make it worse with thread locker, but then the heat when its running might make the tread locker useless anyway since heat is how you get it to loosen when you need to remove things with thread locker on them. But then, maybe the thread locker keeps rust and poo poo at bay and prevents things from seizing in the first place?

iirc doesnt toyota use loctite on the head side of their exhaust studs? seems like it would at least not hurt

e: yea these


Deteriorata posted:

The problem is that the slow leak won't remain slow for very long. It's probably a nail in the tire that mostly seals. Over time it will gradually ream out the hole and leak more and more. If you're close to needing new tires anyway and just want to limp along for a few months, then you can probably ignore it. If the tires have a lot of life left on them, pay the money to get it fixed and be done with it.

you never know. ive had multiple screws in one of the tires of my truck for... at least 4 years? i took it in once to get it fixed and they said it was unfixable because there were two punctures that were too close to each other. now those tires are finally wearing out, and in the mean time ive had to top it up every 6 months or so when i remember.

Raluek fucked around with this message at 06:34 on Jul 19, 2023

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

I've been nursing a medium (top off from 25 psi to 37) leak every 4 days or so until we go in to get a pair of new tires and rotate the rears to the front probably mid August. This time of year we're only putting 100 miles a week on the car

Probably going to add an extra degree or two with an alignment, outside of the tires wearing faster than the inside nearly 2:1

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



Those Toyota studs look like they have a copper anti seize on them rather than a locktite compound based on the color at least.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
could be. the site i grabbed that pic from calls it "thread seal" which isn't very specific.

https://www.yotashop.com/exhaust-stud-toyota-genuine-exhaust-stud-with-thread-seal-90116-10150/

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
It was actually for a small Kubota diesel but thanks.

Do you guys not fix your own tires with string patches?

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Henrik Zetterberg posted:

Yes I agree. However, I have a lot of kids from teens to toddlers and sometimes proximity wins over a better shop. Not saying you’re wrong at all, but my kid logistics this week required something closer. And yes, I understand the irony of it going on day 5 without my family car. I will be going elsewhere from now on.


Anyway, separate question.

I have a 2016 Subaru WRX Limited that has had a driver-side rattle in the rear quarter panel for a while now due to said lack of free time because of kids. When I’m in gear (manual) and slowing down when I’m approaching a red light or whatever, something is rattling like crazy around 2400 RPM and also down around 1800. It’s driving me loving crazy and I’ve finally opened up the trunk and pulled the liners out to see what it could be.

There’s this hose that looks like it’s running from the front, down to the area where one of my mufflers are. Is it some sort of sensor hose? I think it’s just rattling against the metal frame. If this is indeed the culprit, how can I secure it better?

https://imgur.com/a/N3dC117

Probably rear wiper squirter or sunroof drain. Zip ties would be fine for that.

If there aren't any convenient holes get one of these.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-...cB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Ambassadorofsodomy posted:

It was actually for a small Kubota diesel but thanks.

Do you guys not fix your own tires with string patches?

plugging a tire will get you home if you're way out in the sticks without a spare, but i would feel more comfortable with a real patch.

i wonder how bad those things mess with tire balance.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Plugs and patches are two different things. I plug my tires all the time. Usually if it requires a patch then I need a new tire.

joat mon
Oct 15, 2009

I am the master of my lamp;
I am the captain of my tub.

Raluek posted:


i wonder how bad those things mess with tire balance.

That's why you always put in at least two additional ones, equally spaced around the tire.
Don't

joat mon fucked around with this message at 15:10 on Jul 19, 2023

Henrik Zetterberg
Dec 7, 2007

honda whisperer posted:

Probably rear wiper squirter or sunroof drain. Zip ties would be fine for that.

If there aren't any convenient holes get one of these.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-...cB&gclsrc=aw.ds

It must be the sunroof drain then since no rear squirter. Cool!

I ended up using zip ties where there are holes, and electrical tape where there wasn’t, but those anchors are a great idea. Thanks!

It turns out, it was actually 2 rattles. That one and the top anchor on my drivers side car seat had a little play in it. Strapping that down tighter in conjunction with anchoring the hose seems to have fixed it, woohoo!

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Raluek posted:

plugging a tire will get you home if you're way out in the sticks without a spare, but i would feel more comfortable with a real patch.

i wonder how bad those things mess with tire balance.
Around here they used to be used as a permanent fix, and the garages I worked at did them all the time. Now they are supposed to be temporary use only. That being said, I had three of them inone tire at one point. And because my luck is bad some times, they all happened within the first 2 years of owning them . No balance issues. And the tire never lost air.

Sub Rosa
Jun 9, 2010




I just got a 2005 Toyota Avalon that seems pretty great really. Pulled the following codes:

P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire
P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire
P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire
P0420 :420: Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold

C1241 Low or Abnormally High Battery Voltage

Battery tests good. Voltage is low when car is idle, but seems strong once you are up to 2000 rpm.

Is this a sign of a failing alternator or is the alternator behaving this way because of something else? I think the misfires that are throwing codes are only happening when the car is at idle, so more likely a power issue than bad ignition coils, yeah?

El Jebus
Jun 18, 2008

This avatar is paid for by "Avatars for improving Lowtax's spine by any means that doesn't result in him becoming brain dead by putting his brain into a cyborg body and/or putting him in a exosuit due to fears of the suit being hacked and crushing him during a cyberpunk future timeline" Foundation
2015 Ford 3.2l diesel with 120k miles in a camper/transit van. Trans replaced in 03 of 2023. Is this a recipe for disaster? I'm entirely unfamiliar with the platform and don’t want to point my aging in-laws at it if it will end up in the horrible mechanical failures thread…

They are looking to sell their small trailer and maybe the Tacoma because they are old and uncomfortable with towing things anymore.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Sub Rosa posted:

I just got a 2005 Toyota Avalon that seems pretty great really. Pulled the following codes:

P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire
P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire
P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire
P0420 :420: Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold

C1241 Low or Abnormally High Battery Voltage

Battery tests good. Voltage is low when car is idle, but seems strong once you are up to 2000 rpm.

Is this a sign of a failing alternator or is the alternator behaving this way because of something else? I think the misfires that are throwing codes are only happening when the car is at idle, so more likely a power issue than bad ignition coils, yeah?

What exactly was the voltage with the car off (overnight) and also idling?

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





phosdex posted:

Discount Tire will look at your tire for free. If its a valve stem thing they'll fix it free too.

They'll fix any patchable tire for free, but their definitions of patchable are fairly strict - can't be at or past the shoulder, tire can't be too old or too worn, can't have obvious damage from being driven on while flat.

This is not to say that their strictness is unwarranted; a lot of tires can't be safely patched and then handed back to 99% of the dipshits on the road.

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004
Is there a Mopar thread that I'm not seeing? Sounds like I'm about to acquire a 66 Satellite with a 440 stroked out to 512 and was "street legal at one point".

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

two_beer_bishes posted:

Is there a Mopar thread that I'm not seeing? Sounds like I'm about to acquire a 66 Satellite with a 440 stroked out to 512 and was "street legal at one point".

I think that would merit a thread of its own.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Deteriorata posted:

I think that would merit a thread of its own.

Yeah dude. Don’t waste your time looking, waste your time posting

WTFBEES
Apr 21, 2005

butt

Dr. Lunchables posted:

Yeah dude. Don’t waste your time looking, waste your time doing massive burnouts

Yeah I agree

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004
That's fair! It's currently a couple states away and details haven't been hammered out yet but I'll :justpost: as soon as I get it home

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
We have some classic Mopar sickos who would be very interested.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Ambassadorofsodomy posted:

Not sure where else to put this, but what are the pros and cons of using loctite on Exhaust manifold studs?
Specifically the threads that go in to the head, not the ends that the nuts thread on to.

Seems like so many exhaust manifold studs get seized on there, so why make it worse with thread locker, but then the heat when its running might make the tread locker useless anyway since heat is how you get it to loosen when you need to remove things with thread locker on them. But then, maybe the thread locker keeps rust and poo poo at bay and prevents things from seizing in the first place?

I replaced my steel manifold studs with brass ones when I had the Pontiac's 389 rebuilt in 2010.

Wrar posted:

We have some classic Mopar sickos who would be very interested.

:justpost:

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 05:39 on Jul 20, 2023

Sub Rosa
Jun 9, 2010




VelociBacon posted:

What exactly was the voltage with the car off (overnight) and also idling?

I have not tested it in this condition. It was tested at a part shop. Guess I need to get some sort of electric meter to try to narrow this down, any suggestions?

Searching around it does seem other people in similar situations have replaced the alternator and had the same issue, so a fuse or bad ground point certainly seems to be possible and I need to figure out how to isolate it.

(I may sound like I'm better at turning wrenches than I actually am, but I'm trying.)

Edit: Looks like there are cig plug usb ports that give a live voltage reading so that seems like a pretty clever and helpful thing.

Sub Rosa fucked around with this message at 15:19 on Jul 20, 2023

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



Sub Rosa posted:

I have not tested it in this condition. It was tested at a part shop. Guess I need to get some sort of electric meter to try to narrow this down, any suggestions?

Searching around it does seem other people in similar situations have replaced the alternator and had the same issue, so a fuse or bad ground point certainly seems to be possible and I need to figure out how to isolate it.

(I may sound like I'm better at turning wrenches than I actually am, but I'm trying.)

Edit: Looks like there are cig plug usb ports that give a live voltage reading so that seems like a pretty clever and helpful thing.

Yea I used the cigarette port voltmeter device for keeping an eye on my car battery.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Sub Rosa posted:

I have not tested it in this condition. It was tested at a part shop. Guess I need to get some sort of electric meter to try to narrow this down, any suggestions?

Searching around it does seem other people in similar situations have replaced the alternator and had the same issue, so a fuse or bad ground point certainly seems to be possible and I need to figure out how to isolate it.

(I may sound like I'm better at turning wrenches than I actually am, but I'm trying.)

Edit: Looks like there are cig plug usb ports that give a live voltage reading so that seems like a pretty clever and helpful thing.

If you don't have a meter at home it might be worth having the local auto parts store test the battery and alternator. I haven't done it in a long time but I think they have tests they can run without removing anything.

Sub Rosa
Jun 9, 2010




NitroSpazzz posted:

If you don't have a meter at home it might be worth having the local auto parts store test the battery and alternator. I haven't done it in a long time but I think they have tests they can run without removing anything.

This is what I did. While picking up a remote entry fob at Advanced Auto Parts I had them check the battery and they said battery was good. I mentioned the codes that had been pulled saying under or over voltage, and then he asked me to crank the engine and then to rev up. Said low voltage while idling but good at 2k rpm.

When I was picking up (apparently the wrong) Chilton's manual at an O'Reilly's I asked them to check my alternator, and he said it was charging fine at idle.

LloydDobler
Oct 15, 2005

You shared it with a dick.

Sub Rosa posted:

Edit: Looks like there are cig plug usb ports that give a live voltage reading so that seems like a pretty clever and helpful thing.

They work just fine but be aware there will be a little bit of voltage drop due to the distance from the battery over small-ish wires. Like .25-.5 volts. So don't let a 'just barely low' reading fool you.

Henrik Zetterberg
Dec 7, 2007

Firestone put 2 wrong blowers into my Suburban and it fried them both after a couple minutes. Finally worked when they ordered an OEM blower 6 days later. Fuckin clowns.

At least they told me that my front struts are shot. Makes way more sense now since our current 18’s suspension felt WAY more stiff than our 17, which was super soft.

Smith
Jul 17, 2004

Sub Rosa posted:

This is what I did. While picking up a remote entry fob at Advanced Auto Parts I had them check the battery and they said battery was good. I mentioned the codes that had been pulled saying under or over voltage, and then he asked me to crank the engine and then to rev up. Said low voltage while idling but good at 2k rpm.

When I was picking up (apparently the wrong) Chilton's manual at an O'Reilly's I asked them to check my alternator, and he said it was charging fine at idle.

Do you have any charging symptoms like dim lights or a battery warning light? Low voltage codes show up a lot just because the car saw low voltage at some point briefly but don't cause any issue. I'd be more concerned about the misfire and converter code, maybe check spark plugs first if you don't know the history.

Sub Rosa
Jun 9, 2010




Smith posted:

Do you have any charging symptoms like dim lights or a battery warning light? Low voltage codes show up a lot just because the car saw low voltage at some point briefly but don't cause any issue. I'd be more concerned about the misfire and converter code, maybe check spark plugs first if you don't know the history.

No low power symptoms at this point. More focusing on it somewhat first in case it's related to the misfires. Would feel pretty silly if I replaced plugs and coils and kept having misfires because of an unaddressed electrical issue?

And I'm only noticing what I think are misfires when sitting at idle, so I think they could be related to a low voltage state.

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trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!
Dealer wants to charge me $1400 to do the rotors and pads on my FiST. How feasible is it to DIY as somebody who’s never done brakes on a car before?

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