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trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

lordfrikk posted:

I wish I could do floor standing ones. Currently the space is so limited that I’m not sure even the bookshelf ones will fit, unfortunately, but I don’t want to buy a soundbar because the one I tried didn’t sound particularly good to me, and I dislike that it’s so limited/specific use case.

that's fine, that's what a subwoofer or two is for

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Mederlock
Jun 23, 2012

You won't recognize Canada when I'm through with it
Grimey Drawer

lordfrikk posted:

I wish I could do floor standing ones. Currently the space is so limited that I’m not sure even the bookshelf ones will fit, unfortunately, but I don’t want to buy a soundbar because the one I tried didn’t sound particularly good to me, and I dislike that it’s so limited/specific use case.

Soundbars are poo poo and your intuition served you well to avoid them. Is wall mounting the bookshelf speakers an option? Or speaker stands on either side of the entertainment center/TV?

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


I bought a used Hsu STF-2 subwoofer 3 years ago and it’s been great. It’s hooked up to the sub out on an old Sony 5.1 receiver. I think it died over the weekend while I was out of town.

For a couple months, it’s been making a buzzing sound if it doesn’t get a signal while it’s waiting to auto shut off. When I got back tonight, it was making that buzzing sound. Now, even when switched off (but plugged in), it makes the buzzing sound, and it doesn’t play anything when receiving a signal.

Any recs for troubleshooting? Maybe a blown fuse? If troubleshooting doesn’t work, any recs for an affordable 8 or 12” subwoofer?

Mederlock
Jun 23, 2012

You won't recognize Canada when I'm through with it
Grimey Drawer
Try isolating just the receiver and sub on a power bar, and try a different RCA cable to connect it. If it behaves the same, something on the amp board is most likely blown. Replace the fuse on the back just to be sure first though. You're probably better off replacing it than trying to fix it.

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

You should be able to find a replacement amplifier a lot cheaper than the cost of a new sub. Unless you need an excuse to upgrade, that is :sun:

Mederlock
Jun 23, 2012

You won't recognize Canada when I'm through with it
Grimey Drawer

Wibla posted:

You should be able to find a replacement amplifier a lot cheaper than the cost of a new sub. Unless you need an excuse to upgrade, that is :sun:

Good point Wibla, something like this would work well if OP is feeling game to open up their subwoofer and running a speaker wire out, bypassing the back-panel

https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Subwoofer-Amplifier-Bridge-Theater/dp/B07MR6YCQ1

If you really want to be cool and have a soldering iron, you can find one the easiest to access speaker wire screw on thru-input terminals on the inside panel of the amp, desolder the existing wires off it's prongs, and solder the subwoofer's speaker wire directly to it, thus letting you just connect a speaker wire from an external subwoofer amp directly to it using the built in posts. That's what I did on a 10" sub I gave to my brother, I just made sure to cut the power cord off, pull the fuse, and labelled the rear well to indicate it was broken and not to be plugged in.

CAPTAIN CAPSLOCK
Sep 11, 2001



lordfrikk posted:

I wish I could do floor standing ones. Currently the space is so limited that I’m not sure even the bookshelf ones will fit, unfortunately, but I don’t want to buy a soundbar because the one I tried didn’t sound particularly good to me, and I dislike that it’s so limited/specific use case.

Ah, understood. Well if you are still considering Elac, the DBR62 is very good for the price and just as a speaker in general. I think Elac has sales a few times a year too if you aren't in a big hurry. Hopefully it can fit in your setup.

e: And it's front ported so you can shove it right up against the wall if you need to.

Palladium
May 8, 2012

Very Good
✔️✔️✔️✔️

CAPTAIN CAPSLOCK posted:

And it's front ported so you can shove it right up against the wall if you need to.

IIRC front ports can work anywhere true, but it doesn't address the speakers own inherent boundary LF gain by being placed close to a wall/corner which may be hard to fix even with EQ

nrook
Jun 25, 2009

Just let yourself become a worthless person!
Is a used pair of KEF RDM 2s worth $600? Asking for a Craigslist viewer.

Some brief research tells me that they were excellent when they were released, but that was at least 25 years ago. The price feels a little high to me.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

nrook posted:

Is a used pair of KEF RDM 2s worth $600? Asking for a Craigslist viewer.

Some brief research tells me that they were excellent when they were released, but that was at least 25 years ago. The price feels a little high to me.

no, you could get better new KEFs for a bit more money but they’d be worth it, or less money and they’d be worth it

nrook
Jun 25, 2009

Just let yourself become a worthless person!

Ok Comboomer posted:

no, you could get better new KEFs for a bit more money but they’d be worth it, or less money and they’d be worth it

yeah I kinda figured. ty

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

nrook posted:

yeah I kinda figured. ty

if they were like $200 cheaper I might be more intrigued

qirex
Feb 15, 2001

Used hi fi gear is typically either "My husband died, someone come get this crap out of here" or "I don't really want to sell these so I'm going to price them way too high." Bonus shout out for "here's the two rear speakers from a 2003-era Aiwa home theater in a box set, $200."

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


Mederlock posted:

Try isolating just the receiver and sub on a power bar, and try a different RCA cable to connect it. If it behaves the same, something on the amp board is most likely blown. Replace the fuse on the back just to be sure first though. You're probably better off replacing it than trying to fix it.
Sorry, just to be clear, the sub is the issue, not the receiver. If nothing is plugged into the sub, as soon as I plug in power, even if the power switch is off, it makes the buzzing sound.

Dogen
May 5, 2002

Bury my body down by the highwayside, so that my old evil spirit can get a Greyhound bus and ride
If it’s humming without an input cable plugged in it’s most likely something with the sub itself, unfortunately.

Fozzy The Bear
Dec 11, 1999

Nothing much, watching the game, drinking a bud

Josh Lyman posted:

any recs for an affordable 8 or 12” subwoofer?

What is your definition of affordable?

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


Dogen posted:

If it’s humming without an input cable plugged in it’s most likely something with the sub itself, unfortunately.
I checked the 250V 2.5A fuse and it was fine. I had some 250V 3.15A fuses sitting around and they didn’t help either. :smith:

Fozzy The Bear posted:

What is your definition of affordable?
The sub is part of a 5.1 system in my living room. I listen to tons of EDM and watch a decent amount of movies. Are SVS, Hsu, REL, and Rythmik still the best bang for buck brands? On my local FB and CL, the cheapest option is an SVS PB1000 for $400. That’s probably the upper limit of what I want to spend for used. For a new sub, I could probably do $600. In an ideal world, I’d find a decent used 8 or 10” sub like the STF-2 for $250. I got mine for $90 which I realize was a killer deal and not normal.

I live in an 1100 sq ft condo so while I have concrete floors and the downstairs neighbor has never asked me to turn the music down, there have been instances where the bass travels beyond my living room, through my bedroom, to the old lady who lives next door. As a result, my STF-2 was set to like 20%. So I don’t need loudness but I do want extension. Should I look into cheaper used subs from Klipsch, JBL, or Polk, or would they just be muddy and not extend much below 40Hz?

Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 01:55 on Aug 15, 2023

Fozzy The Bear
Dec 11, 1999

Nothing much, watching the game, drinking a bud

Josh Lyman posted:

Are SVS, Hsu, REL, and Rythmik still the best bang for buck brands?

Yes, I would also add PSA - Power Sound Audio, but I don't think they have anything less than $1000

They are currently having a sale on the S2410M, dual 12" woofers, but its $1000 after the price reduction.

e: Oh yeah, Monoprice is making subs now too. I would just pray you don't need any customer service :lol:

Fozzy The Bear fucked around with this message at 02:00 on Aug 15, 2023

CAPTAIN CAPSLOCK
Sep 11, 2001



Josh Lyman posted:

Are SVS, Hsu, REL, and Rythmik still the best bang for buck brands?

RSL Speedwoofer 10s is 450USD shipped and it's fantastic.

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


CAPTAIN CAPSLOCK posted:

RSL Speedwoofer 10s is 450USD shipped and it's fantastic.
Oh yeah I completely forgot about the Speedwoofer. Seems like a new 10S MKII with warranty for $450 is a better choice than a used PB1000 non-Pro for $400.

On an unrelated note, I found a pair of Klipsch KG 1.2 speakers (6.5" driver, 1" tweeter) in the freebie area of my building. My computer audio setup is the Klipsch RSX-3 satellites (3.5" main, 3/4" tweeter) from an iFi 2.1 system connected to the sub/amp from a ProMedia 2.1 system since the original sub died a while back. I've tested the KG 1.2 on my living room receiver and they work.

Assuming they will sound much better than my current setup, what would be a cheap desktop amp? Input would be 1/8" out from my PC. Here's the spec sheet for the KG 1.2: https://assets.klipsch.com/product-specsheets/KG-.2-series.pdf


I've had them for a few months but haven't done anything because I need to figure out where to actually place the bookshelfs. That's a footrest under the desk, finally getting an Aeron after 3.5 years of WFH:

Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 07:18 on Aug 16, 2023

KozmoNaut
Apr 23, 2008

Happiness is a warm
Turbo Plasma Rifle


I have a Fosi Audio V3 and a set of Dali Concept 1s, seems like a very solid little amp, plenty of power with the 48V power supply.

Hippie Hedgehog
Feb 19, 2007

Ever cuddled a hedgehog?

Josh Lyman posted:


I've had them for a few months but haven't done anything because I need to figure out where to actually place the bookshelfs. That's a footrest under the desk, finally getting an Aeron after 3.5 years of WFH:


I’d use wall mounted speakers above the monitors for that desk since there is no desk space. But those speakers are rear ported so you should definitely not wall mount them…

Palladium
May 8, 2012

Very Good
✔️✔️✔️✔️

KozmoNaut posted:

I have a Fosi Audio V3

i replaced the 2x original NE5532s in mine with OPA2134PAs and it sounds clearer

and i dont believe that's placebo since ASR guys tested the last budget amp king Aiyima A07 with the NE5532, LM4562, and the OPA2134 and the last one had the best overall SINAD as well as EMI rejection

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


Hippie Hedgehog posted:

I’d use wall mounted speakers above the monitors for that desk since there is no desk space. But those speakers are rear ported so you should definitely not wall mount them…
I mean, I don't have to use them. I wonder if I could use really short speaker stands to place them behind the side monitors, that would provide space for the rear ports.

They really are a bit big for desktop use. Might just have to leave them in storage until I find a better use.

Mederlock
Jun 23, 2012

You won't recognize Canada when I'm through with it
Grimey Drawer

Josh Lyman posted:

I mean, I don't have to use them. I wonder if I could use really short speaker stands to place them behind the side monitors, that would provide space for the rear ports.

They really are a bit big for desktop use. Might just have to leave them in storage until I find a better use.

Yeah, that's exactly what I did




E: also seconding the Fosi Audio V3 or TB10D

Mederlock fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Aug 16, 2023

Xotl
May 28, 2001

Be seeing you.
I just upgraded my old Logitech z906 home theatre system for my desktop to a separate DAC (Topping E70) and amp (Topping PA7). I love the sound in general, but did enjoy the oomph from the subwoofer I had with the Logitech setup. As I still have the z906 subwoofer, is there any way to connect it to the new system I have? The only remaining/unused ports on the DAC and amp are RCA, which the subwoofer also has, but I have no idea if it's possible / what's required to do it, or if it's not possible at all and I have to go and buy an entirely new type of subwoofer.



If I need a new subwoofer, any suggestions are appreciated. I've never strayed from the all-in-one style sort of system before, so this is my first foray into proper home audio.

Xotl fucked around with this message at 06:47 on Aug 24, 2023

Fozzy The Bear
Dec 11, 1999

Nothing much, watching the game, drinking a bud

Xotl posted:

I just upgraded my old Logitech z906 home theatre system for my desktop to a separate DAC (Topping E70) and amp (Topping PA7). I love the sound in general, but did enjoy the oomph from the subwoofer I had with the Logitech setup. As I still have the z906 subwoofer, is there any way to connect it to the new system I have? The only remaining/unused ports on the DAC and amp are RCA, which the subwoofer also has, but I have no idea if it's possible / what's required to do it, or if it's not possible at all and I have to go and buy an entirely new type of subwoofer.



If I need a new subwoofer, any suggestions are appreciated. I've never strayed from the all-in-one style sort of system before, so this is my first foray into proper home audio.

Can you show the connection ports of the DAC? There might be a subwoofer output RCA port.

KozmoNaut
Apr 23, 2008

Happiness is a warm
Turbo Plasma Rifle


Palladium posted:

i replaced the 2x original NE5532s in mine with OPA2134PAs and it sounds clearer

and i dont believe that's placebo since ASR guys tested the last budget amp king Aiyima A07 with the NE5532, LM4562, and the OPA2134 and the last one had the best overall SINAD as well as EMI rejection

I prefer to not waste my time.

Dogen
May 5, 2002

Bury my body down by the highwayside, so that my old evil spirit can get a Greyhound bus and ride

KozmoNaut posted:

I prefer to not waste my time.

Yeah I asked one of my friends who does audio engineering and teaches music and electronics about swapping opamps and he said more or less the same thing

Xotl
May 28, 2001

Be seeing you.

Fozzy The Bear posted:

Can you show the connection ports of the DAC? There might be a subwoofer output RCA port.

Sure. This was the best shot I found; pardon the text. XLR is running to the amp, and USB to my computer. The others are empty.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Dogen
May 5, 2002

Bury my body down by the highwayside, so that my old evil spirit can get a Greyhound bus and ride
You can always try the L/R RCA ins and outs, might work.

Fozzy The Bear
Dec 11, 1999

Nothing much, watching the game, drinking a bud

Dogen posted:

You can always try the L/R RCA ins and outs, might work.

Maybe use a Y split RCA and connect it to both right and left, incase there is an explosion in stereo, you would only get bass from the explosions on the left (or right) :lol:

Xotl
May 28, 2001

Be seeing you.

Dogen posted:

You can always try the L/R RCA ins and outs, might work.

I had tried that initially on the DAC but no results. However, I read your post and tried it again after hooking up the subwoofer console/controller and screwing around with its input selections, and it worked. Thanks a ton!

Any suggestions on how to set up a good crossover on Windows (with the main speakers on XLR and the sub on RCA)? I have Equalizer APO with the Peace GUI, but while I was able to figure out some simple high- and low-pass filters, I haven't had any luck figuring out how to set up a crossover at all (with any software): all the "simple" guides have so far been way above my head.

Xotl fucked around with this message at 03:32 on Aug 25, 2023

Mozi
Apr 4, 2004

Forms change so fast
Time is moving past
Memory is smoke
Gonna get wider when I die
Nap Ghost

qirex posted:

Used hi fi gear is typically either "My husband died, someone come get this crap out of here" or "I don't really want to sell these so I'm going to price them way too high." Bonus shout out for "here's the two rear speakers from a 2003-era Aiwa home theater in a box set, $200."

Mine was "This country is hosed up, I'm selling everything and moving to Portugal."

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

Hello thread! I bought some used hi-fi gear, then did some things, and need some troubleshooting help.

I picked up a Denon AVR-1910, a set of Monitor Audio Bronze speakers (center, and two floor standing speakers which each have three drivers), and a Boston Acoustics CS Sub10. I think that the speakers are probably contemporary to the receiver, i.e., several years old. I've tried using several different things for sending the signal, currently it's got a bluetooth receiver which catches audio from my iPhone and sends it in over optical. (I've also tried 3.5mm -> RCA input, no change there).

I set it up, fiddled with it for a couple weeks, had it sounding pretty good. One day, I turned it up, and now no matter what I do, it sounds like it's slightly underwater - especially vocals. I've rerun the Audyssey mic setup stuff, but nothing seems to change that.

I'm assuming I've blown a driver, but it doesn't sound how those have ever sounded to me before. Are there other things I should check or troubleshooting steps I should take?

Lamquin
Aug 11, 2007
My current stereo Amplifier is a NAD 315 BEE from 2009 connected to my PC, but it has started to show its age with a loud humming/bzz'ing noise from its power "core", to the point it's distracting if I'm not listening to any music as it's right next to me on my desk.

The easiest solution would simply be to replace it with its newer variant (NAD 316 BEE v2) sold for ~400€ in Sweden, but I'm way out of the loop on what has happened in the market in 14 years.

If my only requirement is that it should be able to power my passive Dali Lektor 2 speakers (rec. Amp. Power of 25-100W at 6 Ohm according to the manual) and be able to plug in my Sennheiser HD 595 (it has a 6.35 mm headphone plug, but can be converted to a 3.5mm) to a headphone jack on the front, is there a good contender I should consider within the same budget/performance range?

qirex
Feb 15, 2001

Lamquin posted:

If my only requirement is that it should be able to power my passive Dali Lektor 2 speakers (rec. Amp. Power of 25-100W at 6 Ohm according to the manual) and be able to plug in my Sennheiser HD 595 (it has a 6.35 mm headphone plug, but can be converted to a 3.5mm) to a headphone jack on the front, is there a good contender I should consider within the same budget/performance range?

There's a ton of good tripath amps in the $200-400 range [not sure how to convert that] from companies like Topping, SMSL, Fosi, etc. but most don't have headphone outs. I think the Topping MX5 might be a good place to start looking.In a lot of cases from these Chinese companies the solution is separate DAC/headphone amp with an outboard power amp.

CAPTAIN CAPSLOCK
Sep 11, 2001



Krakkles posted:

Hello thread! I bought some used hi-fi gear, then did some things, and need some troubleshooting help.

I picked up a Denon AVR-1910, a set of Monitor Audio Bronze speakers (center, and two floor standing speakers which each have three drivers), and a Boston Acoustics CS Sub10. I think that the speakers are probably contemporary to the receiver, i.e., several years old. I've tried using several different things for sending the signal, currently it's got a bluetooth receiver which catches audio from my iPhone and sends it in over optical. (I've also tried 3.5mm -> RCA input, no change there).

I set it up, fiddled with it for a couple weeks, had it sounding pretty good. One day, I turned it up, and now no matter what I do, it sounds like it's slightly underwater - especially vocals. I've rerun the Audyssey mic setup stuff, but nothing seems to change that.

I'm assuming I've blown a driver, but it doesn't sound how those have ever sounded to me before. Are there other things I should check or troubleshooting steps I should take?

Double check to make sure all your cables and speaker wires are connected properly.
Is it all the speakers?
Did you change any eq settings by accident?
Try another input source if you can, like HDMI. Or if you have the option, try another receiver / amp to power the speakers. Or try another set of speakers with your Denon to try and rule out what the problem is(your speakers or your avr).

Worst case it might be that. Have you really cranked up the volume? You might have blown out your speakers. Or maybe they are older / in worse condition than you thought and that lead to them getting blown out.

CAPTAIN CAPSLOCK fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Aug 29, 2023

CAPTAIN CAPSLOCK
Sep 11, 2001



Lamquin posted:

My current stereo Amplifier is a NAD 315 BEE from 2009 connected to my PC, but it has started to show its age with a loud humming/bzz'ing noise from its power "core", to the point it's distracting if I'm not listening to any music as it's right next to me on my desk.

The easiest solution would simply be to replace it with its newer variant (NAD 316 BEE v2) sold for ~400€ in Sweden, but I'm way out of the loop on what has happened in the market in 14 years.

If my only requirement is that it should be able to power my passive Dali Lektor 2 speakers (rec. Amp. Power of 25-100W at 6 Ohm according to the manual) and be able to plug in my Sennheiser HD 595 (it has a 6.35 mm headphone plug, but can be converted to a 3.5mm) to a headphone jack on the front, is there a good contender I should consider within the same budget/performance range?

If you are looking for an all in one solution, the Loxjie A30 has a 6.35mm headphone plug in the front and more than enough power for your speakers in the nearfield (max of 18W into 8ohms or 40W into 4ohms. Not sure on the distortion numbers at max output).

Though I've read that the headphone port is only okay, not super duper audiophile.

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Krakkles
May 5, 2003

CAPTAIN CAPSLOCK posted:

Double check to make sure all your cables and speaker wires are connected properly.
Is it all the speakers?
Did you change any eq settings by accident?
Try another input source if you can, like HDMI. Or if you have the option, try another receiver / amp to power the speakers. Or try another set of speakers with your Denon to try and rule out what the problem is(your speakers or your avr).

Worst case it might be that. Have you really cranked up the volume? You might have blown out your speakers. Or maybe they are older / in worse condition than you thought and that lead to them getting blown out.
Thank you!

I pulled the speakers out and checked the wires on the back, the screw terminals were not loose, but I was able to tighten them up slightly. I'm going to figure out how to hook up an Apple TV and run some HDMI audio to it, and will update. I don't expect that will make a difference because I've already tried a different bluetooth receiver and 3.5mm -> RCA, but it's certainly worth trying.

I did not change EQ settings in the lead-up to the change in sound, but I have tried messing with them since, and that leads to maybe useful information: The closest I've gotten it to how it sounded before is by putting it in Dolby PLII (I think, "Pro Logic 2"?), an alternate surround mode. In that mode, the center channel plays clear vocals, and little/no vocals come from the floor speakers. I'm not sure if this indicates that the smallest drivers in the floor speakers are blown or some other problem that might be solvable. Up until this point, I thought it was all speakers, but the center channel does seem to be able to faithfully reproduce vocals, so at this point, it's just the floor standing speakers.

I don't have another receiver or set of speakers, unfortunately, so I might have to start looking for one/both. Is one or the other more likely? I'd prefer not to end up buying both if I don't have to, but obviously I might not be able to figure it out on the first try. I did turn it up pretty/very loud - the change happened when I had it up the loudest I've ever had it, probably 75-80% of max. Sounded really good, until it didn't.

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