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Jonny 290 posted:More chaintalk. Having trouble triple-confirming stock chain for my '02 FZ1. I'm seeing 'conversion kits' to bring it to 520 size, so am I to assume it's 530 stock? (not getting the kit, want to keep it as stock as possible). I just went through the same nonsense on my FZ6 of that era. What's on your stock chain? If it's a 50v4, that's the same as 530, or at least that's what I've learned. For link count, I found mine by looking up the part on Partzilla for the OEM. I went with JT sprockets front and rear; they were like the only shop out there that had the 530 as everyone else was doing drilled and aluminum 520 parts.
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Oct 6, 2023 13:47
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Thanks, glad i'm not alone. I'll see if there's any labeling on the chain and chase the rest of the specs down. Or...take the sumbitch off and count links, haha.
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Oct 6, 2023 17:25
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the chain if its not complete poo poo from aliexpress should have markings of what it is stamped onto the links. tbh? don't bother converting the fz1 from 530 to 520 unless you want to replace final drive components 2-3x as often.
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Oct 7, 2023 04:10
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Yeah unless you plan to be on the track shaving ounces, don’t convert it
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Oct 7, 2023 15:51
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If it's a Japanese bike, whatever it came with from the factory is gonna the right decision for longevity and reliability, and probably performance too. Imagine thinking that some random dude screwing around in America can come up with a better idea than a team of Honda engineers working 19 hours a day their entire lives. Lmao
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Oct 7, 2023 19:18
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For sure. this bike will never be hosed With in that way. (or any bike of mine, really. These things are too fast as it is.)
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Oct 7, 2023 19:38
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Sagebrush posted:If it's a Japanese bike, whatever it came with from the factory is gonna the right decision for longevity and reliability, and probably performance too. There's a few reasons to go to 520 One is that it's much cheaper in the long run Another is if you're racing it saves a bit of weight and drag without sacrificing anything I personally don't think you would experience any kind of meaningful difference in longevity from a 520 vs a 530 chain but I've never had anyone deliberately do the experiment. 530 is an obsolescent size, modern 1000cc nakeds with considerably more power tend to come with 525.
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Oct 7, 2023 20:38
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My NMax 125 (2022 model, BAL-F8199-E1) is due its first service and I've decided to start doing all my own maintenance. I'm stumped on what transmission oil I need though. The owners manual says:  Which is loving useless. In the specifications page it says:  Which the workshop manual also agrees with, and which to me suggests I can use the same oil in my transmission as my engine. To complicate it a bit, Yamaha sell 10w40 GL4 Scooter Gear Oil (Part no YMD-65049-01-61) which also seems to fit the bill and the use, and is the listed oil in a 2022 Yamalube brochure I found. However, when i rang my local Yamaha dealer to order the parts and asked which oil I needed, they told me I actually need Part No YMD-65049-01-53 which is GL5 80w90 Rear Axle Oil. I double checked this with the dealership I bought the bike from and they said the same thing, when they put my bike into the maintenance software it tells them I need the GL5 rear axle oil.
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Oct 9, 2023 18:05
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The easiest solution here is to simply not do the final drive oil. Seriously. You will wear out the engine and chassis parts before you wear out the final drive oil on a scooter, it's just not a thing anyone ever worries about. If you're determined to do it, you can just use 10w40. All that's in there is a pair of gears exactly like they ones in a bike gearbox. I would not pay actual real life currency for gear oil to put in a scooter final drive unless I also had something else to use the other 900ml in.
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Oct 9, 2023 18:51
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Slavvy posted:The easiest solution here is to simply not do the final drive oil. Seriously. You will wear out the engine and chassis parts before you wear out the final drive oil on a scooter, it's just not a thing anyone ever worries about. Thanks Slavvy. It seems rather coincidental that the engine takes 900ml and the transmission takes 100ml, so I might as well use the last 100ml when i change the engine oil to change transmission too, at least this time.
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Oct 9, 2023 21:40
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Just hit an absolutely massive pothole straight on at medium speed, now bike is "falling" into turns, like easy to lean, gotta muscle it out of the lean, has tendency to increase lean. Falls to both sides about the same amount. Most likely culprit bent forks? (2021 sv650) Edit: visually the forks look straight, as far as I can tell, but I'm not sure what else to guess? Did the impact put a cant in the headstock bearing or something? DearSirXNORMadam fucked around with this message at 05:19 on Oct 10, 2023 |
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Oct 10, 2023 04:29
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Mirconium posted:Just hit an absolutely massive pothole straight on at medium speed, now bike is "falling" into turns, like easy to lean, gotta muscle it out of the lean, has tendency to increase lean. Falls to both sides about the same amount. Most likely culprit bent forks? It can be both of these things yeah. Either the steering geometry is fundamentally altered because the forks are bent, or the head bearings are jamming in place
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Oct 10, 2023 05:57
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Mirconium posted:Just hit an absolutely massive pothole straight on at medium speed, now bike is "falling" into turns, like easy to lean, gotta muscle it out of the lean, has tendency to increase lean. Falls to both sides about the same amount. Most likely culprit bent forks? Did you check tire pressure after the hit/before your current ride? The symptoms you describe are exactly what it feels like to ride on way too soft tires. Tires and wheels can get damaged from a pothole. Not excluding what Slavvy says, but first check the easiest things to fix...
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Oct 10, 2023 07:15
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Idk if it's possible to lose some pressure from an impact without just totally unseating the tyre off the rim but I can't rule that out. Some people are so numb/hamfisted/bad that they can have basically no air in the front tire and barely notice though so yeah, definitely check that
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Oct 10, 2023 07:20
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True true. The impact must be incredibly heavy to dent the rim and make it leak slightly, or to pinch puncture the tire so it might not be it, although the symptoms are very much like i would describe riding with way too little pressure in the tire. That kind of impact damage is fairly common in stamped steel car wheels, but in cast alloy bike wheels? I have no idea.
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Oct 10, 2023 17:01
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They are made of cheese and dent very easily
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Oct 10, 2023 17:17
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Not the same kind of cast wheel, but my kid ran into a tree with his KLX300 at probably 10mph this last weekend. Three spokes broke and at least one is bent. The rim predictably now has a spot pulled out of true. Got new spokes on order but I'll have a shop deal with the tire on/off bullshit and trueing it back up.
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Oct 10, 2023 18:44
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To put that in perspective, a spoked dirt bike wheel is much, much stronger than the average cast alloy street bike wheel
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Oct 10, 2023 20:04
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Slavvy posted:To put that in perspective, a spoked dirt bike wheel is much, much stronger than the average cast alloy street bike wheel Why? What will the cast alloy street bike wheel do, is it more brittle and it'll just break/shatter instead of bend/dent?
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Oct 10, 2023 20:48
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Spoked wheels are like, insanely strong because of the mutually supporting tension of the spokes. Plus any given impact point will have a spoke nearby to resist deformation of the rim, so they're very good at resisting both evenly distributed loads and localized impacts. There are numerous examples out there of simple bicycle wheels supporting absurd loads, you couldn't hope to do the same thing with cast alloy wheels of the same size and weight. Because they're super strong they're ubiquitous on dirt bikes and sumos, the bikes that treat wheels most harshly. Alloy wheels have wide gaps between the spokes, which themselves are not high tensile steel in tension but just bits of cast alloy. They can cope with evenly distributed loads ok but any localized impact will likely land in an unsupported section, which is just a thin arch of soft aluminum and will give way easily. They usually warp from impacts, with cracks forming if it's really severe. They are common because they're cheap, reasonably light and you can make them look really cool. A compromise is forged alloy wheels (forged alloy is considerably stronger for a given volume) with lots and lots of spokes close together like this:  They're the wheel of choice on race bikes (partly because a lot of organizations ban carbon wheels) and are pretty expensive.
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Oct 10, 2023 21:12
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Alloys are better on race bikes because they resist lateral deformation better too, right?
DearSirXNORMadam fucked around with this message at 15:51 on Oct 11, 2023 |
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Oct 11, 2023 15:48
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Mirconium posted:Alloys are better on race bikes because they resist lateral deformation better too, right? Sure why not I think that's determined by spoke geometry on spokies but I'm not an expert on that poo poo, sumos don't seem to have an issue
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Oct 11, 2023 17:20
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What tires should I buy for the monster 796? I don't care about longevity, only goodness. But I'm also not actually tracking it, just riding it around the city and sometimes on longer trips on the weekends, so racing slicks is sadly not the answer.
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Oct 17, 2023 02:33
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Pirelli Rosso 4s Angel GTs if you want more tire life
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Oct 17, 2023 03:30
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Russian Bear posted:Pirelli Rosso 4s Russian Bear posted:Angel GTs if you want more tire life
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Oct 17, 2023 03:49
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Thanks!
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Oct 17, 2023 13:28
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pilot power rs because we like sticky pps
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Oct 18, 2023 18:55
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Razzled posted:pilot power rs because we like sticky pps Can't believe you would try to trick me into putting French tires on an Italian bike.
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Oct 18, 2023 19:41
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Razzled posted:pilot power rs because we like sticky pps This makes Michelins sound good??
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Oct 18, 2023 19:43
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Should I replace my Road 5s with something sportier (I take turns at +20mph and never scrape pegs)
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Oct 18, 2023 20:45
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metallicaeg posted:Should I replace my Road 5s with something sportier (I take turns at +20mph and never scrape pegs) Kind of answering your own question tbh Road 5's have admittedly fixed most of the issues I have with pilot roads in general, they're no angel GT but they're acceptable
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Oct 18, 2023 20:49
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i really like the bridgestones i put on my hawk
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Oct 18, 2023 21:02
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metallicaeg posted:Should I replace my Road 5s with something sportier (I take turns at +20mph and never scrape pegs) I had road 6s front and rear on my MTS1100, and last time the front wore down I changed it for a Power 5. FWIW, I can notice the difference. Sport front / touring rear is a pretty common setup.
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Oct 18, 2023 23:27
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2018 VanVan with EFI, low miles, zero issues for a long time, going maybe 40mph on the long way home yesterday when out of the blue it starts losing power in uneven bursts and lurching. I put on my right turn signal, which REALLY made it lurch even worse and slightly in time with the signal. I was able to limp it along the shoulder for maybe a quarter mile while I confirmed that yeah, the turn signal being on or off affected how badly it was dying. The last time I put the signal on was when the engine finally died. At a stop, I put the key in a position that lets you test the fuel light and I watched it light faintly, flicker, go out, and thereafter the bike was just stone dead. Checked the battery terminal connections, they were very tight. Tried a couple abortive bump starts before remembering that may not be smart with EFI. A tow truck finally brought it home for me to deal with this weekend. So at this point I'd been figuring, since it died while in motion, that there's a fault in the charging system and that the battery would be exhausted, but I just put it on a tender and it immediately cut over to maintenance mode, and I'm getting a solid 12V at the terminal with the tender off. I'm an idiot noob with an analog multimeter and a shop manual. Recommendations on where to start or what's ruled out? (Otherwise I'm probably starting with figuring out how to circumvent the sidestand interlock)
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Oct 21, 2023 01:53
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Still smells like battery and/or charging system to me. Get a digital multimeter because 12.0V with no load could easily be a spanked battery.
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Oct 21, 2023 02:20
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Remy Marathe posted:Tried a couple abortive bump starts before remembering that may not be smart with EFI. Been years since I owned an EFI bike, but I feel like I must have bumped one before. What’s the issue with bump/push starting a bike with EFI?
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Oct 21, 2023 02:28
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I had a similar issue with my EX250. I diagnosed it by connecting the terminals of the bike battery to my mother's car's battery. When I would do this, it would run fine. Replacing the battery fixed it. Assumed that it was a short in the old battery. Batteries should be replaced every 5 years. I'm on year 6 of a glass-mat battery (ad copy is that "they last longer") that I should also replace soon, to avoid any unpleasant surprises.
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Oct 21, 2023 03:52
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That's exactly what happened when the harness from alternator to rectifier on my FZ1 smoked out. Lights dimmed, spark got lovely/weak, was 10pm and i just baaaarely limped it home. Turns out the ground wire in that harness is a known baddie at the connector, so I bypassed it. The THHN splice remains to this day.
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Oct 21, 2023 03:53
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You can bump start an efi bike no problem. It sounds like a charging system thing to me, try looking at battery voltage while cranking or running. Could also be a loose connection somewhere.
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Oct 21, 2023 05:06
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Seconding the 'get a digital multimeter' (or an expensive accurate analog one if that's your kink) 12,0v is too little for a battery that's not being discharged. 12,6-12,8v is the resting voltage of a lead-acid battery not under load, a day after charging or so. Fresh off the charger it will be something over 13v. While revving your engine a bit, your charge voltage should be at the very least 13,8v. Ideally, the voltage is 14,4v. There's a certain degree of fingerspitzengefühl when diagnosing bad batteries, but if you have a fully charged battery resting at 12,6v, and you turn on high beam and brake lights at the same time, battery voltage shouldn't drop dramatically. If it dips half a volt, it's probably bad. This should be a sticky thread: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3962805 LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 10:06 on Oct 21, 2023 |
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Oct 21, 2023 10:02
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