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gbut
Mar 28, 2008

😤I put the UN🇺🇳 in 🎊FUN🎉


Your friend sounds exactly like me. Am I the friend?

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ilkhan
Oct 7, 2004

I LOVE Musk and his pro-first-amendment ways. X is the future.
Time to start asking a lot of questions. You're not getting far into a voron kit without printed parts.

BadMedic
Jul 22, 2007

I've never actually seen him heal anybody.
Pillbug
Good news he ordered the printed parts

8-bit Miniboss
May 24, 2005

CORPO COPS CAME FOR MY :filez:

BadMedic posted:

My friend has fell down the printer tinkering hole
he started off by buying an Ender 3 for 'really cheap'
then he spent a pile of money on upgrades and needed my help getting it tuned and functional

...and now he's decided to upgrade to something 'high end'
I suggested a Bambu cause it just zooms with minimal futzing
he ordered a 350mm Voron kit 'cause it has a larger print volume'

I'm going to be helping him put it together next week, so uhhhhhh wish us luck?
god knows he will need it

fake edit: I never actually checked with him, whether he got a kit with all the printed parts included, or if he's planning to print them himself (or if he knows it's even required :negative:)

This reads like an anti-drug PSA. :lol:

Macichne Leainig
Jul 26, 2012

by VG
friends don't let friends 3D print.

PLA is a gateway filament

Neo Rasa
Mar 8, 2007
Everyone should play DUKE games.

:dukedog:
I can't hate on spending money to upgrade the Ender-3 because a friend gave me one for free earlier this year and even after upgrading how I wanted it's still a lot cheaper than what it would have been to buy one and it definitely got me very interested in 3D printing and it's been fun to tinker with and learn about.

That said I would definitely save up and get like a Prusa or Bambu whenever the stars align for me to buy one of my own.

Macichne Leainig
Jul 26, 2012

by VG
My wife is a tech teacher out at a school and has inherited an Ender-3 which means I have inherited an Ender-3.

Soon that will be me

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Macichne Leainig posted:

My wife is a tech teacher out at a school and has inherited an Ender-3 which means I have inherited an Ender-3.

Soon that will be me

The ender NG project is genuinely well thought out.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
Could someone help me figure out why my supports keep snapping off at the base? I'm trying to print this gengar at 100% scale. All my prints fail around 33% as soon as the hands start to print. I've tried both normal and tree supports in Cura. Neither work. I've done the machine leveling about 5 times now.

Actually, supports have really bit me in the rear end for the past week now. Is there some trick to working with supports?

8-bit Miniboss posted:

This reads like an anti-drug PSA. :lol:

They picked the name "Ender" for a reason.

kid sinister fucked around with this message at 22:52 on Oct 20, 2023

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Finished the P1P -> P1S upgrade tonight, took around 1 hour 15 minutes. Instructions were ok, mainly just followed the video.

https://imgur.com/a/G7pLbVk

Seems right at home now with his enclosed brother Voron lol

Excited to see how ABS prints on this guy now.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Pretty well.. I usually warm it up for about 20 min with the bed at 100° lowered a bit..

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
I don't even know how to Google my problem. The supports get an inch tall, then fail as the object starts printing.

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:

kid sinister posted:

I don't even know how to Google my problem. The supports get an inch tall, then fail as the object starts printing.

post pictures. screenshot of slicer preview + what is actually getting printed, including the failure.

Hanging hands on models of characters are a bitch to support, so you're not necessarily missing anything. I have utterly resorted to manual supporting even for fdm in those situations.

e: yeah this is a support nightmare holy poo poo

Javid fucked around with this message at 03:36 on Oct 21, 2023

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Nerobro posted:

The ender NG project is genuinely well thought out.

Is this what you're talking about

https://www.printables.com/model/469280-ender-3-ng-corexy

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Javid posted:

I have utterly resorted to manual supporting even for fdm in those situations.

Explain how if you would.

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:

kid sinister posted:

Explain how if you would.

So, there's not a function in the slicer for it that I know of. I will just model a suitable shape in CAD and position it properly in the slicer.

As an example, the thing holding up the elbow of this mini was a hard support. the rest I let automatic tree supports handle.



If I were going to do that to your Gengar, i would poo poo out a simple model with a flat top big enough for your three fingers there, and a circular base of that size, that is thick enough to be freestanding without supports itself.



then load them both up in the slicer and move the little pillar to where you want it



then you slice and look at the preview to see how much of a first layer that gives you on the hands. (scrutinizing likely trouble spots in the slicer preview is good practice always anyway)



in my estimation, this will probably work but you'd have to hack it off and fix the fingertips afterwards. I would still run tree supports to keep the whole thing stable.

However, I would not do that with your gengar. As opposed to an elbow, doing that on fingertips will never look great (with that or tree supports) and unlike my more complicated minis, that gengar has an easy plane along which it can be split into two halves that will both need 0 supports, which you can do with the generic windows 3d builder if you have it:



If the problem you are having is just support failure and not a greater printer issue, this will 100% work the first time but then you have to glue it and clean up the seam, which will still be less work than peeling that thing out of tree supports as in scenario A.

stl examples for you to play with.

e: but also

kid sinister posted:

I don't even know how to Google my problem. The supports get an inch tall, then fail as the object starts printing.

post pictures of the failure because we're all just guessing at a short description as to what is actually happening on your printer in reality. I have no idea if any of the poo poo above will help you because you haven't shown us the problem yet

RabbitWizard
Oct 21, 2008

Muldoon

kid sinister posted:

I don't even know how to Google my problem. The supports get an inch tall, then fail as the object starts printing.

Javid posted:

post pictures of the failure because we're all just guessing at a short description as to what is actually happening on your printer in reality. I have no idea if any of the poo poo above will help you because you haven't shown us the problem yet
Most definitely.

Javid posted:

If I were going to do that to your Gengar, i would poo poo out a simple model with a flat top big enough for your three fingers there, and a circular base of that size, that is thick enough to be freestanding without supports itself.
Not sure if I'm missing an important difference here, but it seems to me like this could be done a lot easier with the following support settings:
Grid - Auto generate - Overhang Threshold 2° - Top contact Z distance 0mm - Top interface layers 2-3

In general, not specifically about Javids post:
I'd turn on first layer expansion 5mm and sheath around the support for good measure, also the print speed for the support material interface should be slow, I use 20mms if it is that small.
"Top contact Z distance" is probably the most important setting for good results here. If the layer above is fiddly bits like the fingers, this should be 0 because the nozzle can't pinch off the filament. I assume the failure is from this. The printer is trying to make 3 small dots into the air which results in one big blob somewhere on the interface layer. If this doesn't do it already, the nozzle movement of the next layer will push against it.

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
You're not missing anything, that is just the answer to a different question than the one I was answering (fine tuning slicer-generated supports vs brute forcing hard supports)

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

designed this larger handwheel for my sewing machine and printed it over last night



put it on this morning and it fits perfectly! but



:dumbbravo: guhhhhhhhhhhhhh

withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe
Lmfao

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


what am I look in at here midge?

withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe
The crossbar is not centered lmfao.

AlexDeGruven
Jun 29, 2007

Watch me pull my dongle out of this tiny box


I can hear that diagram

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK


withak posted:

The crossbar is not centered lmfao.

The crossbar is centered, the wheel is not

gbut
Mar 28, 2008

😤I put the UN🇺🇳 in 🎊FUN🎉


Both the wheel and the cross are centered, just in two different universes.

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
Someone's midpoint/ concentric constraints are not exclusive to a single universe

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Javid posted:

Lots of great stuff

Thank you so much! One question. How did you cut that in half vertically? When I tried to do it in FreeCAD, it just deleted the entire Part when I tried to cut it.

Randalor
Sep 4, 2011



I got a new Ender 3 V3 SE and after doing some minor adjustments (tightening the bed screws, adjusting the z-offset by .01mm because the auto-detect was off slightly) it seems to print decently well. I ran the all-in-one test and it had some problems, are these just from the print speed being too high, or is there something else I should look into adjusting as well?




8-bit Miniboss
May 24, 2005

CORPO COPS CAME FOR MY :filez:
Well the desiccant bags bags that came with the AMS finally gave out so I'm getting off my rear end and printing up some desiccant boxes with hygrometer mount. Question for other AMS users, did you bother to print up trays for the spaces under the spools the bags used or is the 3 boxes at the front enough?

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Randalor posted:

I got a new Ender 3 V3 SE and after doing some minor adjustments (tightening the bed screws, adjusting the z-offset by .01mm because the auto-detect was off slightly) it seems to print decently well. I ran the all-in-one test and it had some problems, are these just from the print speed being too high, or is there something else I should look into adjusting as well?






Silk filament can be a pain to print well, I've had to do a lot of tweaking over time to get it going decently. I notice some weird blobs and stuff on your print, which could be just ooze building up on the nozzle and crashing into the parts that tipped over. What kind of speeds are you running?

Randalor
Sep 4, 2011



Rexxed posted:

Silk filament can be a pain to print well, I've had to do a lot of tweaking over time to get it going decently. I notice some weird blobs and stuff on your print, which could be just ooze building up on the nozzle and crashing into the parts that tipped over. What kind of speeds are you running?

I was just running the default speeds on Creality's slicer (so 150 mm/s I think? Either way, stupidly fast for silk, and AFAIK the other slicers don't have profiles for the V3 yet so I'm just using this until then). It does seem to be solidly built, and my wife printed off some diamond paint trays without issue at that speed. I turned it down to half speed and it seemed to print better, but I'll continue fine-tuning the speed if that is the only major issue.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

Roundboy posted:

Someone's midpoint/ concentric constraints are not exclusive to a single universe

Rhino doesn't have constraints like that, and it's a freeform modeler rather than a parametric one, so everything is free to move around at any time unless you lock it down. I certainly modeled the wheel on center, but I must have accidentally shifted it over a couple of millimeters before exporting for printing.

Stupid waste of filament, but at least it did serve a purpose as a prototype. I made a couple of small dimensional changes to the corrected version based on things I didn't like about this print.

But yeah even I, a professional and expert in this stuff, am not immune to dumb poo poo that I tell my students to look out for on the first day of class!

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

Randalor posted:

I was just running the default speeds on Creality's slicer (so 150 mm/s I think? Either way, stupidly fast for silk, and AFAIK the other slicers don't have profiles for the V3 yet so I'm just using this until then). It does seem to be solidly built, and my wife printed off some diamond paint trays without issue at that speed. I turned it down to half speed and it seemed to print better, but I'll continue fine-tuning the speed if that is the only major issue.

Try turning the heat up a little bit too if you haven't already, silks tend to like things a bit warmer. There's no hard and fast rule, and of course it will depend on the individual printer, but I usually print silks 10 to 15 degrees hotter than the PLA+ I normally use.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


8-bit Miniboss posted:

Well the desiccant bags bags that came with the AMS finally gave out so I'm getting off my rear end and printing up some desiccant boxes with hygrometer mount. Question for other AMS users, did you bother to print up trays for the spaces under the spools the bags used or is the 3 boxes at the front enough?

I did it all. I had the front ones then I just finished printing the ones to replace the bambu provided packs.

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:

kid sinister posted:

Thank you so much! One question. How did you cut that in half vertically? When I tried to do it in FreeCAD, it just deleted the entire Part when I tried to cut it.

that answer and a link to a split gengar are in the post you quoted, my friend

The Chairman
Jun 30, 2003

But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

kid sinister posted:

Thank you so much! One question. How did you cut that in half vertically? When I tried to do it in FreeCAD, it just deleted the entire Part when I tried to cut it.

if you're using PrusaSlicer or a derivative, you don't even need to bring it into model editing software

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Yeah, that one. The designer knows what they're doing. For instance, they used printed live hingest to isolate the leadscrews from the bed motion. It's designed with enclosing in mind. It's frame carefully choses where to use the metal ender parts to the best effect. Lighting is built into the design. An underbed fan is included for chamber heating, and warmup. There's a whole matrix of hot end setups to support your hot end of choice.

............... I Like it. It's not some half finished idea (I'm looking at you rook) or industrial looking disaster (I'm looking at you The 100) I absolutely wouldn't build it. But people get a hair up their derriere about upgrading an Ender. "I need core ~something~ on my ender".... well here's a good design if you ~need~ to put another $300 at your $99 printer.

ilkhan
Oct 7, 2004

I LOVE Musk and his pro-first-amendment ways. X is the future.
My voron's canbus cable is fixed, yay! The webcam config is hosed somehow. Boo!

The thing looks good and prints nicely (when it's printing), but drat it's a pain in the rear end, too.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Javid posted:

that answer and a link to a split gengar are in the post you quoted, my friend

Sorry, my brain farted and I kept trying to use FreeCAD like I've already used. I didn't even consider Windows built in editor to be any good.

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Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008

ilkhan posted:

My voron's canbus cable is fixed, yay! The webcam config is hosed somehow. Boo!

The thing looks good and prints nicely (when it's printing), but drat it's a pain in the rear end, too.

I have like 3 extra since I bought so many can bus boards.

I'll likely have another when I drop this btt board, If you need one dropped into USPS

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