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Springfield Fatts posted:What about those expensive Joytoy dolls, anyone bought a $70 space marine yet? I've been into Space Wolves since I was 10, in the prime of 2nd Ed, so I bought a Ragnar Blackmane and an Iron Priest, and I have the old Ragnar and Iron Priest models I painted back in the day. I gotta say, the JoyToy models are pretty detailed and poseable and everything, they're well done.
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Oct 31, 2023 03:30
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Are there any good colored airbrush primers out there? I see that Badger makes some, and I haven't experienced any problems with their black and grey Spinalrazor at least, but I'm looking for a dark green rather than the olive they have.
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Oct 31, 2023 04:29
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rantmo posted:Are there any good colored airbrush primers out there? I see that Badger makes some, and I haven't experienced any problems with their black and grey Spinalrazor at least, but I'm looking for a dark green rather than the olive they have. Pro Acryl has a Dark Camo Green as well as a Black Brown.
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Oct 31, 2023 08:36
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Vallejo has a whole range. I haven't tried all of them, but the ones I have tried work great. Except white. https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/category/hobby/surface-primer-en/
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Oct 31, 2023 09:24
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grassy gnoll posted:This fuckin' thing. I really like his fur!
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Oct 31, 2023 11:16
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Eej posted:I have no idea how a kid is supposed to paint a gunpla with those thick rear end tamiya acrylic paints that no one tells you needs their proprietary alcohol based thinner to be workable. No wonder I never finished painting any of my gunpla as a kid. fwiw you can thin tamiya with regular IPA no problem, they become a lot more brush paintable with flow improver too
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Oct 31, 2023 11:47
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Painted some Fell Wargs to use as werewolves in Dread Nights I'd originally intended to paint the fur then decide on which color I like best for all of them... Then decided gently caress it and left 'em different colors. Maybe it'll help keeping track of them or something. I dunno.
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Nov 1, 2023 03:27
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Eej posted:I have heard of people using a little bit of glue on joints just to add some stiffness rather than completely eliminate mobility though, to make holding a pose easier. The pro move is clear nail polish. If you have a loose joint, Also for gunpla, just panel lining the thing with a marker is okay, especially a cheaper HG kit. It adds a lot to the kit's looks, without the full effort of painting it, which I save for the larger and/or more detailed kits. My motto is "never do anything with a sticker that you could do with a marker", so I have an absurdly large collection of markers. mllaneza fucked around with this message at 04:39 on Nov 1, 2023 |
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Nov 1, 2023 04:37
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mllaneza posted:The pro move is clear nail polish. If you have a loose joint, you can buy a lot of clear acrylic paint varnish at a craft store for cheaper than clear nail polish btw cleanup and removal are easier too
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Nov 1, 2023 10:52
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Spanish Manlove posted:Is it common for people to freeze the models in place with glue on the joints and then paint them up in a scene or diorama? I've seen a few of these but I don't think it's common. I've not fixed the poses of my painted gunpla but I would absolutely handle them the bare minimum. The tolerances are already so tight that every movement threatens to scrape paint off from somewhere. Also as they're molded in colour a decent trick is to perfectly remove the sprue nubs and then just lay on a matte coat and it'll look painted.    It's amazing what some decals and a coat of matte varnish can do. There's less paint on those 3 models than a typical 28mm figure.
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Nov 1, 2023 16:45
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Cthulu Carl posted:Painted some Fell Wargs to use as werewolves in Dread Nights I love those! How did you do the fur? It never turns out nearly that well for me.
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Nov 1, 2023 22:41
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WhiteHowler posted:I love those! How did you do the fur? It never turns out nearly that well for me. My zero brain method is to wet blend the base coats and then drybrush the transitions    Left is the base colors, right is the drybrushed colors. It seems complex but it's so little effort
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Nov 1, 2023 23:20
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i do not know how to spray paint, unfortunately. priming is hard! it's alright though because these guys are not super detailed and are test minis. besides, kobolds are kinda blotchy and weird anyways.  the internet keeps talking about Zenithal Priming but spray paint is hard
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Nov 1, 2023 23:27
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it looks like i dipped my bold in yogurt
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Nov 1, 2023 23:30
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It looks like you didn't shake your rattle can enough? Also if you want some tips on how to primer your models here's a classic helpful video from Duncan: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2GV85SO2u1A
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Nov 1, 2023 23:37
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Ominous Jazz posted:it looks like i dipped my bold in yogurt let those among us cast etc. Are these Reaper Bones? Because those things are covered in either mold release or are just made out of stuff that'll outright repel primer, which may be the source of your problem. If you've got some plastic spoons hanging around, those are superlative things to practice on as far as getting your distance, coverage, etc. worked out.
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Nov 1, 2023 23:40
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grassy gnoll posted:let those among us cast etc. they may be, my friend gave me these because painting didn't jive with his ADD but according to results from Saturday it jives with mine
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Nov 1, 2023 23:45
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I am working on some Death Korps for Kill Team 
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Nov 2, 2023 00:26
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WhiteHowler posted:I love those! How did you do the fur? It never turns out nearly that well for me. To be honest, my poo poo was way more low effort than Spanish Manlove's process because I've been super lazy lately - Prime with Vallejo Leather Brown primer - Heavy drybrush of VGC Off-White - Slap on Contrasst or Speedpaint of choice Cthulu Carl fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Nov 2, 2023 |
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Nov 2, 2023 00:27
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Ominous Jazz posted:i do not know how to spray paint, unfortunately. priming is hard! it's alright though because these guys are not super detailed and are test minis. besides, kobolds are kinda blotchy and weird anyways. It helps if you have the cans kind of warm, so you can put them in a tub of hot water if its cold where you are (nb: Hot, not boiling. If its too hot to comfortably hold your hands in, its too hot). Honestly I only really do this if I'm priming in the winter, but its worth bearing in mind. Then shake the absolute crap out the can. Like shake it until you are sure its enough shaking then do another minute. When you go to spray hold the can a decent distance from the model (If its going on thick and covering detail you're too close. If its speckling because the paint is drying before it hits the model its too far away. You get a feel for this quite quickly, I reckon about twentyish cm is where I tend to hold it by default, but I'm bad at estimating distances. It might also vary a little with local temperature and humidity). Dont blast the model directly, start the spray and move the can smoothly across the models, repeat until they're primed. Better to do 2-3 smooth passes back and forth than to blast too much at a figure at once. I will second grassy gnoll in wondering if those figures might have been coated in mold release residue or something though, the fact the paint isnt sticking to the edges of the base or even some of the flat surfaces is frankly slightly weird. I think its only likely if its reaper bones, metal or resin (cast, not 3d printed obv) but worth asking/checking. If they are a quick wash in soapy water will clean it off. Zenithal priming isnt particularly hard either tbh, its just priming with a dark colour then giving the model a blast from above with a lighter colour, but dont worry about it until you can reliably get a regular monochrome spray prime you are happy with.
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Nov 2, 2023 00:40
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thank you thread. i'm feeling much more confident with the second batch. 
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Nov 2, 2023 02:39
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Should I be sealing a miniature before I do an oil wash? Just popped some black oil on a minature, let it sit, and went back at it with mineral spirits and a little foam sponge. Ended up stripping off a bunch of the acrylic paint gently going over things to tidy it up. Didn't let it sit long enough? Poor job priming maybe?
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Nov 2, 2023 06:22
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w00tmonger posted:Should I be sealing a miniature before I do an oil wash? I would definitely seal them. I've never tested it, but it seems to me that mineral spirits would do a number on acrylic paint.
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Nov 2, 2023 06:37
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There's two minds on it: You can varnish it to protect the paint underneath and allow for complete cleanup if required. Good for pinwashing and such. You can leave it unvarnished so that even when you start your subtraction there will be a permanent tint from the oil filling in the gaps in the texture of the acrylic paint. Good for weathering and grimdark styles. If the acrylic layer has dried it shouldn't have been rubbed off. Try using something softer like q tips or makeup sponges. E: I use gamsol too so that might also be the difference in stripping your acrylic layer Eej fucked around with this message at 07:09 on Nov 2, 2023 |
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Nov 2, 2023 06:45
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Varnishing won't hurt, but there shouldn't be a chemical interaction between mineral spirits and acrylic paints. If you're getting paint lifting, it's more likely to be from the friction than the chemical interaction. Foam can be surprisingly abrasive. If you are just putting neat oil paint on a model, try using a bush moistened with white spirit
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Nov 2, 2023 11:18
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Got some resin warp spiders from a friend who was liquidating their eldar stock. I had never painted an old GW rein model before. I kind of love the sort of 2.5 nature of them? And the janky resin cast made me feel less focused on technique and more free to just slap pigment on em for funsies. Even had fun trying a little freehand on the backpack  
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Nov 2, 2023 13:51
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Paragon8 posted:Varnishing won't hurt, but there shouldn't be a chemical interaction between mineral spirits and acrylic paints. If you're getting paint lifting, it's more likely to be from the friction than the chemical interaction. Foam can be surprisingly abrasive. I'm using minieral spirit at the moment, and real reason to switch other than maybe that it's got less of an odour?
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Nov 2, 2023 14:36
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My 5 year old and I are home sick with COVID, and to my delight she asked if she could paint models. She's got a Citadel/Age of Sigmar starter paint set I picked up on clearance, and I had some pre-primed Nolzur's D&D minis I also got on clearance for her to paint. So I did my two  
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Nov 2, 2023 19:21
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w00tmonger posted:Should I be sealing a miniature before I do an oil wash? The only reason you'd varnish before an oil wash is to gloss coat it so it wicks into the seams even better. I've oil painted / washed on top of minis that I based with Army Painter Speedpaint V1 (famous for reactivation!) after a half hour with no issues. Muir posted:My 5 year old and I are home sick with COVID, and to my delight she asked if she could paint models. She's got a Citadel/Age of Sigmar starter paint set I picked up on clearance, and I had some pre-primed Nolzur's D&D minis I also got on clearance for her to paint. So I did my two Heck yeah!
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Nov 2, 2023 20:12
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w00tmonger posted:Should I be sealing a miniature before I do an oil wash? What you're using to clean up the oil matters. Lots of thinners thin oil and the mantra is the oil thinners don't affect acrylic but that's not strictly true. Methylated spirits (purple stuff) will definitely strip acrylic. Mineral spirits/Turpentine will eat away at acrylic as well but it is much more active on the oil. Unless you really go ham on the cleaning OR your acrylic layer is not fully cured you should be able to strip back the oils before you get to the acrylic. Sansodor (low odor thinner) doesn't attack acrylic at all. In fact it barely attacks cured oil paints so it's only good for making the wash and immediate clean up. Also like the other Goon said, friction will abrade through the layers. If you're using your oils as a filter to tint your model then not varnishing is probably better, but if you just want to wash the panel lines a good coat of gloss will make cleanup easier since the oils can still stain matte surfaces beyond rhe ability of thinners to clean.
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Nov 2, 2023 22:55
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shiver me timbers, its some more pirate tanks    
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Nov 3, 2023 04:17
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Muir posted:My 5 year old and I are home sick with COVID, and to my delight she asked if she could paint models. She's got a Citadel/Age of Sigmar starter paint set I picked up on clearance, and I had some pre-primed Nolzur's D&D minis I also got on clearance for her to paint. So I did my two Your five-year-old paints better than I do. 
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Nov 3, 2023 05:56
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I recently painted a bunch of dark elves.  8 in total  I was unsure about these models while I was painting them. I was enjoying painting the dragon skin cloaks (peak Warhammer ridiculousness), but as I was then going through the faces and bodies they were looking more an more like the Kiss Army. I was very tempted to pull them from their bases, green stuff some platform heels and paint cat makeup. But the white hair pulled it back into line. I have huge respect for you guys that paint armies. After half a dozen or so I am so keen to move onto something else. This guy feels my pain: 
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Nov 3, 2023 08:34
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Beffer posted:I recently painted a bunch of dark elves. Looks great! Good contrast on the purple. My trick for painting armies is to paint each squad differently as well as move from squad to character or a larger project like a vehicle depending on my whims. Did more work on my Ewok army and this is what I have so far:  Thankfully, legion only has about 30-40 minis and not a hundred like other games. I'm skirting on the higher number, maybe even 50, due to playing a horde army.
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Nov 3, 2023 14:26
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Nebalebadingdong posted:shiver me timbers, its some more pirate tanks drat, these are beautiful. What's your rust technique?
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Nov 3, 2023 14:48
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Ballbot5000 posted:drat, these are beautiful. What's your rust technique? not too hard, just a bit time consuming 1. base coat (like, green or whatever color you want the "paint" to be) 2. stipple with brown around the edges of the panels 3. stipple again with orange brown inside the brown stippling 4. add highlights around the rust spots. gives a paint a chipping or flaking effect 5. panel line everything with gray and then white
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Nov 3, 2023 15:55
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I think this may be the correct thread to ask about specific paint colors. I'm trying to find the recommended contrast paints to use for new models, but the Citadel app no longer shows contrast paints for whatever reason. You used to be able to see the different recommended paints per model on the old GW website, but they just changed over to a new site that no longer shows this. So...how do I know what paints to buy as a beginner painter? Is there another official site that I don't know about?
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Nov 3, 2023 17:39
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Cardboard Fox posted:I think this may be the correct thread to ask about specific paint colors. Pick what colors you think look cool and go from there Here's a guide on what each contrast paint looks like over various undercoats https://www.reddit.com/r/Warhammer40k/s/9ed98WFQRJ
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Nov 3, 2023 17:56
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Shoehead posted:
I varnished this way back and it dried really weird and lumpy. So he tool a dip in some isopropyl (except for his head which would melt) and I repainted him.     For his head I did some washes and it managed to cover the bad varnish thankfully
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Nov 3, 2023 18:11
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Cardboard Fox posted:I'm trying to find the recommended contrast paints to use for new models, but the Citadel app no longer shows contrast paints for whatever reason. You used to be able to see the different recommended paints per model on the old GW website, but they just changed over to a new site that no longer shows this. So...how do I know what paints to buy as a beginner painter? Is there another official site that I don't know about? Spanish Manlove posted:Pick what colors you think look cool and go from there Tale of Painters also has a very complete guide to all contrast and contrast-like paints. GW's poo poo is kind of a mess with the new store site.
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Nov 3, 2023 18:34
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