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Ominous Jazz posted:It could be both! Being relatively new to minis, and not having actually painted in like 2 years, I feel like you should see how much you're working uphill here. This is a mini I got from Reaper, thrown in as a random grab bag with an order I made. It is probably the lowest quality thing I have, like his face appears to be melting. And I'm using Reaper paints, which aren't amazing but aren't terrible but they're better than trying to use craft acrylics.  A better mini, I forget where from but I'm pretty sure it's metal. But this is using craft paints. Like dollar store craft trash paint. The image is potato because it's a crop and I don't have this thing anymore, but you can see how craft paints have no coverage.  This is the same figure, but with real paints, mostly Vallejo.  I'm not amazing, but holy poo poo does having a decent model and paint just do so much to smooth out the process. I'd have given up this whole thing day 1 if I was suffering through those kobolds. To compare, these are the last things I did about 18 months and it was just primed and slapped with speed paints. Minimal work.  Please, for all that is good, do yourself a favor and get decent stuff if you want to do this. That you can even identify the the subject is a miracle, you'll have a blast on the other models you have, just stop running the race backwards and blind folded. Ravus Ursus fucked around with this message at 01:10 on Nov 8, 2023 |
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Nov 8, 2023 01:08
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Ominous Jazz posted:I have... other minis! the ones I primed are the nicer of the ones my friend gave me to paint. I didn't go for these first so that I could have some practice. The others are... slightly less bad drunk'n dragon guards (I had an amazon gift card lying around)     I'm way happier with how this dude turned out but I feel as though something is missing. I gotta hop on another class for sure. real paint would help too! Ominous Jazz fucked around with this message at 01:11 on Nov 8, 2023 |
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Nov 8, 2023 01:09
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Good lord I get bags of 1:48 and 1:50 train models, usually 90 figs for 20 bucks and they are light-years better than the Kobolds and stanky-leg zombies. Jesus christ thats a crime. 
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Nov 8, 2023 01:48
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Their flashing tongues, spitting out blood and poison.
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Nov 8, 2023 03:19
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Be nice to my friends terrible bolds
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Nov 8, 2023 03:24
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Ominous Jazz posted:
Great work! I think I would use black or dark grey as a base coat for the purple. Also, don't worry about zenithal highlighting with your primer with what you're using, unless! You use the zenithal highlight spray, take a picture from a few angles so you can use it as a lighting reference, then do a full primer coat that doesn't leave any spots without. For rich dark colours like the purple, sometimes it's better to not start with purple, but like dark grey with some purple mixed in, and then straight purple on top. E: oh, and it looks like you may have overly watered down your paints on some spots, you can see the paint running on the transition lines. You want to use a good sharp narrow tip but wide bodied brush, wet it but not be actually soaking, and you want the paint thinned to the right level. Also, make sure to give the craft paint some time between coats so you don't reactivate a previous coat. This video was just the first one I found that has something close to the ideal paint to water ratio: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-0HoOh2oKs Mederlock fucked around with this message at 04:04 on Nov 8, 2023 |
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Nov 8, 2023 03:25
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this thread and the unspiration thread are merging.
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Nov 8, 2023 03:27
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AndyElusive posted:this thread and the unspiration thread are merging. every miniature i paint brings them closer Here's some 10mm infantry I just did so as to avoid complete shitposting:  Sometimes I tell myself I should try to push to improve my skills more, especially when I see some of the ridiculous 10/6mm models that get posted here, but there's also a satisfaction in just chugging along and getting more poo poo done well enough too. Plateaus are comfortable I suppose!
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Nov 8, 2023 03:41
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Meant to post this earlier, but this is the best explanation I’ve seen about thinning paints to the consistency for the job you’re trying to do. https://youtu.be/sBDVPoNXyVI?si=tXnjVr4KX0xdwTib
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Nov 8, 2023 03:41
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This is probably just me overreacting, but how "safe" is the citadel plastic glue for use every few days? I know you shouldn't be sniffing it in a poorly ventilated area, but I'm having trouble finding any legitimate studies outside of nerd forums saying "I've been smelling it for years and I'm still alive."
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Nov 8, 2023 04:28
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It's going to be either methyl ethyl ketone or n-butyl acetate if that helps you search for info; most concerns are going to be with industrial scale usages and exposures. I haven't come across any info that would indicate health issues from the typical hobby levels of use. Just don't ingest them, no matter how tempting.
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Nov 8, 2023 04:40
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Cardboard Fox posted:This is probably just me overreacting, but how "safe" is the citadel plastic glue for use every few days? I know you shouldn't be sniffing it in a poorly ventilated area, but I'm having trouble finding any legitimate studies outside of nerd forums saying "I've been smelling it for years and I'm still alive." citadel plastic glue is butyl acetate and acetone. these are relatively harsh chemicals but they're not significantly hazardous in the amounts you're using. there's no known long-term dangers of exposure, and "known" is just the standard "well maybe we might find something someday." use it with good circulation. an open window and a plain old fan is generally plenty. if the vapors are irritating your nose or throat or eyes, your circulation isn't good enough. (it takes a lot more than this to actually be dangerous, so it's a reasonable warning indicator.) it's not dangerous to get on your skin but both chemicals can dry it out or irritate it. spills can be cleaned with soap and water, even when soaked into clothing. if you ingest it and feel any effects (headache, confusion, dizziness), call poison control. if you get it in your eye, flush it with clean running water and call poison control. this is pretty much the only way you can hurt yourself without intentionally huffing it or setting it on fire.
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Nov 8, 2023 05:46
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Great advice, thanks. I promise not to ingest the glue.
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Nov 8, 2023 06:38
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Is there some company out there mad enough to actually sell MEK to a probable population of kids? I feel like that's gonna go real bad real fast.
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Nov 8, 2023 07:15
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grassy gnoll posted:Is there some company out there mad enough to actually sell MEK to a probable population of kids? I feel like that's gonna go real bad real fast. i know testors still does for a few products, although most of them are tolulene or limonene now. hell, testors used to use benzene until it was regulated in the 50s.
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Nov 8, 2023 07:53
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I'm still a complete newbie when it comes to armor painting, and I'm going to have to start over on my partner's Sororitas Rhino. I want to use chipping fluid to prime a light color, then alternate chipping medium and gradually darker colors until I have a black surface with light chips showing through. I tried to achieve that with Pro Acryl white primer, but I'm sure I didn't let it cure long enough before I added the chipping fluid, because when I rubbed at the model with a wet brush, I pulled up everything down to bare plastic in spots. Is there a solid resource out there that shows how to approach the workflow I'm botching? I should have enough Wraithbone spray to handle the model if that's going to give me the best base layer. I can't help but wonder if I would get a better result if I picked up some Tamiya deck tan or something on my way home from the office?
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Nov 8, 2023 15:03
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Mistaken For Bacon posted:I'm still a complete newbie when it comes to armor painting, and I'm going to have to start over on my partner's Sororitas Rhino. I want to use chipping fluid to prime a light color, then alternate chipping medium and gradually darker colors until I have a black surface with light chips showing through. I tried to achieve that with Pro Acryl white primer, but I'm sure I didn't let it cure long enough before I added the chipping fluid, because when I rubbed at the model with a wet brush, I pulled up everything down to bare plastic in spots. Is there a solid resource out there that shows how to approach the workflow I'm botching? Chipping medium is more temperamental than I expected it to be as well. Letting layers cure is a big part of it. I can tell you that trying to do multiple layers and THEN chip it is a very bad idea unless you want super grungy looking models.  That's a resin model btw, the base material is an off-white. I just found a formula (the above mentioned multi-layer chipping) to make it look like a plastic model with metal bits that's been soaking in stripper for a couple hours.
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Nov 8, 2023 15:47
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grassy gnoll posted:Is there some company out there mad enough to actually sell MEK to a probable population of kids? I feel like that's gonna go real bad real fast. Mr Cement SP is 50% MEK. You can buy MEK by the gallon on eBay. Same with IPA and acetone and everything else. Used to be able to buy Dichloromethane on eBay as well until new EU regulations clamped down on it. Cardboard Fox posted:This is probably just me overreacting, but how "safe" is the citadel plastic glue for use every few days? I know you shouldn't be sniffing it in a poorly ventilated area, but I'm having trouble finding any legitimate studies outside of nerd forums saying "I've been smelling it for years and I'm still alive." The danger is vastly overblown. The volumes you are using are not going to outgas significantly. In theory you might have a problem if you have exceptionally sensitive asthma or something along those lines but if you are otherwise fine it's not going to be an issue. A bigger risk is cyanoacrylate fumes which can and will irritate your eyes - again this is if you use a ton of it. I've had my eyes water a little if I'm trying to cover a model with CA to skin it but never with regular gluing. Another theoretical risk is becoming sensitised and developing a skin allergy. Again it's highly unlikely as you're not handling it with your hands and the amounts used are minute. I would be more concerned if you're running a 3D printer. Slyphic posted:Chipping medium is more temperamental than I expected it to be as well. Letting layers cure is a big part of it. I can tell you that trying to do multiple layers and THEN chip it is a very bad idea unless you want super grungy looking models. Don't scale modellers do multi-layer chipping though? I have heard stories about hairspray and salt chipping as alternatives?
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Nov 8, 2023 16:02
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Bought some fun stuff, looking forward to painting heads and drilling holes and priming more efficiently
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Nov 8, 2023 16:02
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Z the IVth posted:Don't scale modellers do multi-layer chipping though? I have heard stories about hairspray and salt chipping as alternatives?
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Nov 8, 2023 16:11
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  Left or right?
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Nov 8, 2023 16:26
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Al-Saqr posted:Bought some fun stuff, looking forward to painting heads and drilling holes and priming more efficiently How does that little head stand work? Do you just glue the head to it?
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Nov 8, 2023 16:29
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GreenBuckanneer posted:Left or right? Is he an android like Kryten? I don't 40k
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Nov 8, 2023 16:31
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Athas posted:How does that little head stand work? Do you just glue the head to it? You drill a hole into the head and then put it on the T shaped cone thingy. It's basically something you could replace with a paperclip and a piece of cork. Same with the gun thing with the rubber bands, where some double sided tape and a long piece of wood can save you $30 on that thing
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Nov 8, 2023 16:32
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GreenBuckanneer posted:
Oh I didnt know Robert was out here literally wearing a laurel wreath. I'd go with the helmet, you did a great job of it
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Nov 8, 2023 16:36
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Cardboard Fox posted:Great advice, thanks. I promise not to ingest the glue. Don't make promises you can't/won't keep!
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Nov 8, 2023 16:58
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Who among us hasn't mixed up their hands and licked the glue bottle tip while squeezing the brush?
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Nov 8, 2023 17:23
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I had a question about sub assembly for those of us who struggle with really fine detail (especially those underarm straps!). Do most of you just get playdough/puddy and place the pieces onto them, or do you drill holes and place them onto the little platforms? My current method is cutting out weapons/shields with a little bit of the plastic frame still on them. This allows me to mount it into my citadel holder thing, but it's really awkward. inscrutable horse posted:Don't make promises you can't/won't keep! I'll be honest, I have thought about what would happen if you drink a whole container of plastic glue. Like, will it dry before it reaches your stomach? Just curious, not crazy.
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Nov 8, 2023 18:41
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Cardboard Fox posted:I had a question about sub assembly for those of us who struggle with really fine detail Cardboard Fox posted:I'll be honest, I have thought about what would happen if you drink a whole container of plastic glue. Like, will it dry before it reaches your stomach? Just curious, not crazy.
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Nov 8, 2023 19:09
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Cardboard Fox posted:I had a question about sub assembly for those of us who struggle with really fine detail (especially those underarm straps!). Do most of you just get playdough/puddy and place the pieces onto them, or do you drill holes and place them onto the little platforms? i use gloves and hold the fiddly bit. it works pretty well most of the time. if you drank a whole container of plastic glue, i dont know if you would die, but it would not evaporate before it hit your stomach and would probably do some serious damage to your kidneys or liver
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Nov 8, 2023 21:13
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Slyphic posted:They do, I just underestimated how many fine details of the process go unstated. And among the people that do it, there's a lot of trial and error that's dependent on the specific paint and hair spray/salt/chipping medium and then repeating the process exactly the same on the model you actually care about. I have been tempted to try some fancier scale modelling techniques like salt/hairspray chipping but every time I just  and go with sponge chipping instead. I do wonder if the results justify the effort at the scale most miniature models are at. I feel the chips are really large and look off scale on anything short of really big 28mm vehicles.
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Nov 8, 2023 23:23
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Mistaken For Bacon posted:I'm still a complete newbie when it comes to armor painting, and I'm going to have to start over on my partner's Sororitas Rhino. I want to use chipping fluid to prime a light color, then alternate chipping medium and gradually darker colors until I have a black surface with light chips showing through. I tried to achieve that with Pro Acryl white primer, but I'm sure I didn't let it cure long enough before I added the chipping fluid, because when I rubbed at the model with a wet brush, I pulled up everything down to bare plastic in spots. Is there a solid resource out there that shows how to approach the workflow I'm botching? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4_PWKgsPH8 Jon Bius is a good crossover between mini painting and scale modelling. Mike Rinaldi is one of the big scale modelling guys - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i9yEB-wvNLg His books are great and is Adam Wilder if you can find his books. But yeah for warhammer I think you can get pretty decent results just with sponge chipping  This is a leviathan I finished that i'm pretty happy with. I do think I could have spent a bit more time with highlighting some of the bigger chips.
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Nov 8, 2023 23:57
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Z the IVth posted:I have been tempted to try some fancier scale modelling techniques like salt/hairspray chipping but every time I just   If I had to put money on it, my downfall was overthinning my middle layer of paint or not giving it sufficient time between very thin coats while airbrushing. I think I introduced enough moisture that it partially activated. I used salt chipping on a large batch of 10mm/1:150th plastic cars for overgrown post-apoc street fillers (which apparently I have NO good pics of at all). The chipping worked really well, though the colors I picked don't look how I wanted them to and I want to do a second larger batch but better.
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Nov 9, 2023 01:00
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Slyphic posted:I once struggled like that too. I'm learning to embrace the mantra, "What Would Carvaggio Do (to this mini)?" Or, 'don't paint things you won't see during a game' People play a game with these? I just like to paint and read about the lore.
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Nov 9, 2023 01:04
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Cardboard Fox posted:People play a game with these? I just like to paint and read about the lore. Yeah, Caravaggio is a pretty common pick but Rembrandt is finally coming up in the meta after a few editions of being in the bottom
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Nov 9, 2023 01:41
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Salt or hairspray chipping isn't worth it imo compared to sponge chipping or using a brush to do it manually. It just never looks right compared to purposefully making it look like paint has been removed from areas that actually get wear and tear, instead of on the flat areas that those other techniques will do
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Nov 9, 2023 03:28
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pew pew  
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Nov 9, 2023 05:06
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Nebalebadingdong posted:pew pew where's the penny
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Nov 9, 2023 05:14
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Harvey Mantaco posted:where's the penny i dont put penny with my battletech stuff so they're getting a buff shine before going out tonight. they said they were flipping for heads or tails? i dont know what that means
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Nov 9, 2023 05:28
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Slyphic posted:I found where your buddy got them from. https://www.amazon.com/Figures-Designs-Hex-Sized-Compatible-Pathfinder/dp/B07P72V66B Objects of jewel like chunder.
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Nov 9, 2023 09:59
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