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AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

rain dogs posted:

Fuuuuck. And that basing is so good too

Yeah for real, that's like the first time that I can recall seeing that foliage kit used so well.

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Beffer
Sep 25, 2007

Nebalebadingdong posted:

is this a real thing?

I guess so!

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Skin and eyes, I frikin swear, just, ugh.

Mr Teatime
Apr 7, 2009

Lostconfused posted:

Skin and eyes, I frikin swear, just, ugh.

Paint the eyes first and fix them by painting the skin around them. :ssh:

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Or just do the black all over, then do the face, so that any washes you use don’t hit the whites

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Professor Shark posted:

Or just do the black all over, then do the face, so that any washes you use don’t hit the whites

eyes shouldn't be pure white anyway

khazadum
Dec 1, 2006

I AM NOT A MERRY MAN
edging ever closer to completing my Necron backlog. a couple months worth, optimistically.

so of course I just bought the marines half of Leviathan, and the Kroot half of 2 In to the Dark boxes.



Bohemian Nights
Jul 14, 2006

When I wake up,
I look into the mirror
I can see a clearer, vision
I should start living today
Clapping Larry
Very clean, very nice!

Ominous Jazz
Jun 15, 2011

Big D is chillin' over here
Wasteland style

khazadum posted:

edging ever closer to completing my Necron backlog. a couple months worth, optimistically.

so of course I just bought the marines half of Leviathan, and the Kroot half of 2 In to the Dark boxes.





I dig the water you've done there, that's really fresh basing

Lamuella
Jun 26, 2003

It's like goldy or bronzy, but made of iron.


Ominous Jazz posted:

what companies are making minis on sprue? i really liked making and painting the frameworks minis and getting little bits

Late answer to this, but Wargames Atlantic have a great range of fantasy, sci fi, and historical minis with loads of bits and customisation available.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012



WIP of my Tau Firewarriors. The color scheme is different for me and is dark, but I’m going to run the dark red highlights up to orange and the blue up to ice blue.

I’m unsure of where to go with the gun casings. I want to do dark grey highlighted with lighter greys for all tech instead of gun metal, but Tau always have an armor color on their guns. Should I go blue or white (white will be the helmet color)?

Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

Getting photos in focus on my phone is impossible. Looks really good on the phone but when it goes up online it's blurry as heck. So apologies in advance.

Very happy with how this dude came out otherwise especially for a four hour jobbie.



Shoehead
Sep 28, 2005

Wassup, Choom?
Ya need sumthin'?
I redid my test Hearthkyn Squat



I kept getting distracted this week and instead of an afternoon he took me 3 days :sweatdrop:

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice
I finished another thing! MESBG Fell Beast proxy I printed. It's a bit more blue than the "real" thing, but I like the contrast with the warm tummy bits.





Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

So does nobody drybrush highlights anymore because it's easier to use translucent paint and go in reverse order?

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

Lostconfused posted:

So does nobody drybrush highlights anymore because it's easier to use translucent paint and go in reverse order?

Lots of people drybrush highlights. It's a tool in the toolkit; sometimes it is the best thing to do, so I do it. Sometimes, not.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Drybrushing works better on really rough surfaces like beards, hair, fur, etc... so it still have a place. Even before translucent paints there are cases where you would not drybrush to highlight. Drybrushing can also be a good way to get some brighter highlights over speedpaint/contrast paint.

I think drybrushing instead of edge highlighting to save time and get models to the table as quickly as possible *has* been replaced by speed paint and speed paint over a zenithal as the go to way for getting models to the table.

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


I like to drybrush metal, I feel like it gives it a little more weight.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Also just realized you have to make sure to snap the citadel paint cap at the back. Because it doesn't easily close there, and then paint pools and dries up making it even harder to close. Starting to think these citadel paints aren't very good.

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Lostconfused posted:

Also just realized you have to make sure to snap the citadel paint cap at the back. Because it doesn't easily close there, and then paint pools and dries up making it even harder to close. Starting to think these citadel paints aren't very good.

the paints are okay, the pots are absolute dogshit and deliberately so

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat
They are designed to try out your paints to make you buy paint more often.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

PoptartsNinja posted:

They are designed to try out your paints to make you buy paint more often.

Ok

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Lostconfused posted:

Also just realized you have to make sure to snap the citadel paint cap at the back. Because it doesn't easily close there, and then paint pools and dries up making it even harder to close. Starting to think these citadel paints aren't very good.

If this happens, you can take off the cap (with the ring that holds it in place still attached), pop the cap inside out, remove the crust, pop it back to the right way, and put it back on the paint pot. It's easy, although wear gloves.

Bell_
Sep 3, 2006

Tiny Baltimore
A billion light years away
A goon's posting the same thing
But he's already turned to dust
And the shitpost we read
Is a billion light-years old
A ghost just like the rest of us

IncredibleIgloo posted:

Drybrushing works better on really rough surfaces like beards, hair, fur, etc... so it still have a place. Even before translucent paints there are cases where you would not drybrush to highlight. Drybrushing can also be a good way to get some brighter highlights over speedpaint/contrast paint.

I think drybrushing instead of edge highlighting to save time and get models to the table as quickly as possible *has* been replaced by speed paint and speed paint over a zenithal as the go to way for getting models to the table.
With all the new technologies and techniques, where does one start?

I stopped by a brick and mortar GW a couple of weeks ago because I had the impulse to get into collecting, painting, and possibly playing again (2007 was the last time I was doing this) The detail in the plastic models and the technology in the paints shocked me and it still feels overwhelming despite the fact these (and airbrushing) being QoL.

I bought a Sororitas combat patrol and plan on painting them to the Order Our Martyred Lady: there's a turquoise and white scheme I love and want to go with in the future, but I'd be happier with those results if I tackle that project with experience and confidence.

I'm grateful for YouTubers (Duncan Roades, TabletopReady, Apathetic Fish Miniatures) going into detail on painting Sisters; I've noticed that despite having very different approaches to the colors they employ that they still use layers and edge highlighting for the most part.

A googling after reading this post brought my attention to the zenithal, and it's incredible to me. Is it possible to Squirrel each time I see a new technique to the detriment of a project in trying to start and finish?

Wizchine
Sep 17, 2007

Television is the retina
of the mind's eye.

Harvey Mantaco posted:

Did a guy for my brother in law to take to a tournament this weekend. Not familiar with the army so likely not appropriate colors but I was given full control to paint however I wanted so that's just how it is!




This looks fantastic.

Twincityhacker
Feb 18, 2011

I am also getting into painting again, and I also am going ??? just after a few years, let alone people like you and my partner lookibg to get back into the hobby after nearly 20.

Well, other than memetic advice like "thin your paints" that I haven't forgotten.

Edited for clarity.

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

PoptartsNinja posted:

They are designed to try out your paints to make you buy paint more often.

Open pot, transfer paint to palette, close pot. People keep mentioning the residue making the pots not close properly but I've always been dubious about that. I have some ancient bottles of citadel decades old which have residue but the seal is still good enough to keep them from drying out. Ofc if you have a habit of forgetting to close your pots then that is another problem. If the residue builts up to unmanageable levels they you can always dig it out with a toothpick. Dropper bottles also accumulate residue that prevent proper sealing, cause leaks and can split the caps.

I've lost more bottles of Vallejo to drying than I have GW paints. You would expect Vallejo never to dry in the bottles at all but they still do somehow.

A much more common fail state of having tall unstable bottles with wide open tops is tipping them over and giving your entire painting desk a wash of Nuln Oil.

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

Z the IVth posted:

Open pot, transfer paint to palette, close pot. People keep mentioning the residue making the pots not close properly but I've always been dubious about that. I have some ancient bottles of citadel decades old which have residue but the seal is still good enough to keep them from drying out. Ofc if you have a habit of forgetting to close your pots then that is another problem. If the residue builts up to unmanageable levels they you can always dig it out with a toothpick. Dropper bottles also accumulate residue that prevent proper sealing, cause leaks and can split the caps.

I've lost more bottles of Vallejo to drying than I have GW paints. You would expect Vallejo never to dry in the bottles at all but they still do somehow.

A much more common fail state of having tall unstable bottles with wide open tops is tipping them over and giving your entire painting desk a wash of Nuln Oil.

Yep I've had Vallejo paints just kind of congeal in the bottle. The pigment clumps together and even though there's still medium in there, it becomes unusable.

Paint definitely will accumulate where the cap meets the pot, but I have some pots where that happened at a lot and it didn't really affect the seal. You can always pry out the dried paint there if it bugs you.

Ultimately the pots are inconvenient when you get very low on paint and have to scoop out of it. Otherwise I don't really care that much and the hassle of transferring them to droppers which could dry out doesn't seem worth it to me.

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Bell_ posted:

Is it possible to Squirrel each time I see a new technique to the detriment of a project in trying to start and finish?

It absolutely is. I had a gap of 20ish years, stopped painting miniatures in the mid-late 90s, started doing it again a few years ago. Honestly take a couple of figures to get your eye in, reactivate the old muscle memory, then start experimenting with new tools/techniques. Add 1-2 new things to a project, dont try and change everything all at once. If you like a tool/technique you can incorporate it into your workflow going forward, if you dont, discard it. You dont have to immediately jump into zenithal highlighting, using transluscent paints, keeping your acrylics on a wet palette, wetblending, then drybrushing with makeup brushes, and doing oil washes all on the first figure. Basecoat, wash and highlight/drybrush is still a good foundation to start from!

I'd personally also, once those first few test figures are done, just go ahead and paint those sisters of battle. You'll have more fun learning on a colour scheme/figure that you are excited to paint, and the best way of learning to paint power armour is to paint power armour. Sure you'll probably do a better job of them a year of practice down the road but then you'd do an even better job after 2 years or 5 years, and you might as well paint what you wanna paint. If in a year you hate how they turned out you can always fix them up (or strip and reprime if you need to).

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Z the IVth posted:

If the residue builts up to unmanageable levels they you can always dig it out with a toothpick.

The trick where you turn the cap inside out and back again is so much easier and more effective than this.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

I'm having fun dry brushing. Picking the right color for highlights is difficult though.

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

Lostconfused posted:

I'm having fun dry brushing. Picking the right color for highlights is difficult though.

any particular colors you are looking for tips on?

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

I'm just experimenting with what I have.

Death Guard Green on top of Death Forest Green seems straight forward, even though I think it could look better.

Ushanti bone on top of Vallejo Khaki seems decent enough.

I'm just trying to figure out if I have anything that will go with the Castellan Green for the armor. It's closer to black/grey than green, so I don't think I have any other green paint that goes along with it without being too contrasting.



Heck, I'm not sure any of it even matters from a tabletop viewing distance.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
If you're fine with mixing colors and don't care about a little inconsistency sometimes, the foolproof way to make highlight colors is to mix a little bit of an off white with your main color. If you want cold highlights you mix in sky blue or ice yellow, and warm highlights you mix in pale sand, sunny skin tone, or ivory.

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

Lostconfused posted:

I'm just experimenting with what I have.

Death Guard Green on top of Death Forest Green seems straight forward, even though I think it could look better.

Ushanti bone on top of Vallejo Khaki seems decent enough.

I'm just trying to figure out if I have anything that will go with the Castellan Green for the armor. It's closer to black/grey than green, so I don't think I have any other green paint that goes along with it without being too contrasting.



Heck, I'm not sure any of it even matters from a tabletop viewing distance.

the khaki looks great!

Castellan Green for that kind of armor is usually highlighted with a lighter warm green. One thing you can try is mixing a little ushabti bone into the castellan and drybrushing with that, maybe 1 part ushabti to 2 or 3 parts castellan.

This approach is basically what Spanish Manlove described, ushabti is not off white but it's in that direction.

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord
First two test models of Clan Ghost Bear are done, I'm pretty happy with the color scheme.

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you

Count Thrashula posted:

First two test models of Clan Ghost Bear are done, I'm pretty happy with the color scheme.



Those look awesome. I'm planning on Ghost Bear for my clanner mechs as well, but I haven't settled on which galaxy paint scheme to go with.

Cardboard Fox
Feb 8, 2009

[Tentatively Excited]
My hands finally stopped shaking after my 17th attempt at adding white to the eyes of my Orc. There's no way I'm going to be able to add a little black dot with the brush that I have, so I'll just say this Orc was infused by Sigmar or something....



But then I realized, what if I just make all the eyes pure red....


You see, the Orcs are known to become so enraged that the eyes glow blood red. Isn't that a cool piece of lore?

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

Cardboard Fox posted:

My hands finally stopped shaking after my 17th attempt at adding white to the eyes of my Orc. There's no way I'm going to be able to add a little black dot with the brush that I have, so I'll just say this Orc was infused by Sigmar or something....


Micron pens are very good at making very tiny dots.

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Nazzadan
Jun 22, 2016



x-post from 40k thread

Nazzadan posted:

As much as I want to get started on the World Eaters box, I did start putting together some Warp Talons to flesh out my squad from 5 to 10. My original 5 WTs were the second squad I had painted so it was cool to put the new leader of the squad next to the old one and see the quality difference between my current "lets get through this guy ASAP" and my old "I am going to work on this for 2 days to get it as good as I can."


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