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OneSizeFitsAll posted:Thanks. Yeah, I'm inclined to agree. The fan lights should be nice enough on their own, and she'd prefer the convenience of the button I think. Maybe I'll check with her, though avoiding even more fiddling is certainly appealing to me. It can always be a future project for her. Especially if she ends up getting some super fancy SL INF fans from Lian Li.
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Dec 11, 2023 17:53
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Butterfly Valley posted:I think that's unfortunately impossible, it's an either/or situation - have the case fans connected to the case controller, or have the case fans connected to the motherboard and synced with your GPU and controlled through software. If you want rgb and you want it to work, there is a very easy solution: Buy corsair / ASUS. Icue can detect ASUS Gpu / mobo and can fully control and sync them with all other lights. Even games that take over your RGB like tiny tina’s wonderland understands how to control the ASUS gpu. Having your whole system go blue and white when its snowing in game is cool as hell. Wish every game had support.
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Dec 11, 2023 20:06
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Shifty Pony posted:Well Amazon finally got around to delivering my 12700k so I was able to complete my upgrade. Everything went fairly smoothly, just a moment of "oh poo poo why won't it boot" because the Asus TUF z790 Plus WiFi motherboard comes set to UEFI-only and I had to find a buried setting to switch it to UEFI/Legacy(BIOS). I'll switch my main drive over with MBR2GPT shortly. The intended fan setup on this cooler (and pretty much all other dual-tower coolers) is push-push from front to back. You should move the left CPU fan to the front of the cooler on the right, and you should unclip the center fan from the right tower and clip to to the left tower instead, with the intention that air will be pushed from right to left through the cooler (from the perspective of this image). This isn't mandatory since it clearly works okay as it is, but it should result in more optimal cooling performance, and it may even alter the sound it makes a little (if the high-pitch whine is air turbulence instead of motor hum).
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Dec 11, 2023 20:10
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I wish there were an updated version with USB-C on the front panel and without the 5.25 bays.
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She CBA with software control and would prefer the plain GPU with case control for the RGB fans, so that's handy. Glad I swapped the case for an RGB one though. Thanks for continuing to be awesome, thread.
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Dec 11, 2023 20:34
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Is there any new hotness in thermal compounds? I've got some Arctic Silver 5 and Gelid Extreme lying around, but I bet it's not a great idea to use several-year old batches of thermal paste, especially when the fans on one of the old laptops I originally treated with said tubes 'o gel seem to be running their fans pretty loudly lately. I also have some Liquid Metal but I seem to remember some caveats to using it that didn't make it suitable in some laptops.
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Dec 11, 2023 21:09
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Binary Badger posted:Is there any new hotness in thermal compounds? Liquid Metal is conductive. If you can't guarantee it won't spill-over, don't risk using it.
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Dec 11, 2023 21:14
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What country are you in? Canada Do you live near Microcenter? Yes What are you using the system for? Excel and Gaming What's your budget? $1500ish Canadian, already have monitor/keyboard/mouse. [b]If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate?1080p monitor 144hz Old computer is slowly dying, and struggling to run excel right now. I would like to try some newer games like Elden Ring or BG3. One question: Do I need to buy a wireless network adapter for the motherboard? PCPartPicker Part List: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/wRfst7 CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600 3.8 GHz 6-Core Processor ($269.99 @ Newegg Canada) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($46.19 @ Amazon Canada) Motherboard: MSI PRO B650M-A WIFI Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard ($179.99 @ Amazon Canada) Memory: Crucial CT16G48C40U5 16 GB (1 x 16 GB) DDR5-4800 CL40 Memory ($67.90 @ Amazon Canada) Storage: Intel 660p 1.02 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($151.38 @ Amazon Canada) Video Card: MSI GeForce RTX 3060 Ventus 2X 12G GeForce RTX 3060 12GB 12 GB Video Card ($399.99 @ Best Buy Canada) Case: NZXT H510i ATX Mid Tower Case ($125.00 @ Amazon Canada) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 650 GT 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($134.99 @ PC-Canada) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home Retail - USB 32/64-bit ($99.99 @ Amazon Canada) Total: $1475.42 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-12-11 19:50 EST-0500
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Dec 12, 2023 01:51
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Calumanjaro posted:What country are you in? Canada So I've changed basically every part in your build list except for the CPU cooler, and I'll explain why: CPU, Motherboard, RAM: Since you do have access to a Micro Center I've changed these to a bundle deal Micro Center has, https://www.microcenter.com/product...ter-build-combo. The bigger deal here is you only did 16GB of RAM and only a single stick at that. This is going to extremely hurt your performance, even more so since it's only 4800MHz and CL40. This bundle has a far better kit of two 16GB stick that are faster. I used Google for a quick and dirty USD to CAD price conversion for this bundle. Storage: Gave you a 2TB SSD for less money. GPU: The RX 6650 XT is a few loonies cheaper, and while it has less VRAM, it is a better performing card at your resolution and the games you're playing. It lacks DLSS support since it's AMD, but it's an overall better value for rasterized performance. Case: This is subjective, you might really like the NZXT H510i, however I do not. Swapped to the Fractal Design Pop Air for less money. PSU: Higher wattage, better rated, few bucks less. OS: Buy it from Lodge North or Brown Thunder in SA Mart for $10 USD. To answer your One Question: this particular motherboard has integrated wifi, so you will not need an adapter. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7700X 4.5 GHz 8-Core Processor ($542.72 @ Micro Center $399.99 USD) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($46.19 @ Amazon Canada) Motherboard: MSI PRO B650-P WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard ($0.00 @ Micro Center, Price Included in CPU Cost) Memory: G.Skill Flare X5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL36 Memory ($0.00 @ Micro Center, Price Included in CPU Cost) Storage: TEAMGROUP Cardea Zero Z440 Graphene 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($134.49 @ Amazon Canada) Video Card: PowerColor Hellhound Radeon RX 6650 XT 8 GB Video Card ($394.25 @ Amazon Canada) Case: Fractal Design Pop Air ATX Mid Tower Case ($94.99 @ Memory Express) Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower GF3 TT Premium 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($129.99 @ Canada Computers) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home Retail - USB 32/64-bit ($13.57 @ SA Mart $10 USD) Total: $1356.20 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-12-11 20:17 EST-0500 In the event you don't want to leave Canada and have access to a Canada Computers, they have this bundle with a 7600X, a Gigabyte board with integrated wifi, and a better kit of RAM than the Micro Center bundle for $513.98 CAD: https://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=&item_id=248995&sid=sdq932111b6a00t3fe8on69jl4 Branch Nvidian fucked around with this message at 02:55 on Dec 12, 2023 |
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Dec 12, 2023 02:20
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Kibner posted:Liquid Metal is conductive. If you can't guarantee it won't spill-over, don't risk using it. Just dont use it imo. Thermal griz makes some non conductive paste. “Kryonaut” Playing games fully loads up the GPU but nothing tends to fully load up the CPU, other than literally running like folding at home. Any half decent cooler with a half good application of any paste will be fine unless you live someplace really hot.
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Dec 12, 2023 04:24
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Branch Nvidian posted:So I've changed basically every part in your build list except for the CPU cooler, and I'll explain why: Thank you, I was basically copying off a tier list in my budget.
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Dec 12, 2023 10:56
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I got the am5 offset bracket for my 7800x3d and nh-d15s and while it was really easy idk how much it did, idle/yt temps seem the same but cinebench load seems to be 5c lower than what I was getting before (a few months ago) but that could just be cuz its cold. kinda wish I'd done a cinebench before swapping.
runaway dog fucked around with this message at 14:48 on Dec 12, 2023 |
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Dec 12, 2023 14:46
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:The intended fan setup on this cooler (and pretty much all other dual-tower coolers) is push-push from front to back. You should move the left CPU fan to the front of the cooler on the right, and you should unclip the center fan from the right tower and clip to to the left tower instead, with the intention that air will be pushed from right to left through the cooler (from the perspective of this image). This isn't mandatory since it clearly works okay as it is, but it should result in more optimal cooling performance, and it may even alter the sound it makes a little (if the high-pitch whine is air turbulence instead of motor hum). Moving a fan to the right side will require that the fan stick up about 1.5cm over the top of the heatsink tower to clear the RAM, leaving the fins closest to the CPU without airflow. It will also leave the RAM pretty enclosed and with very limited airflow. Both of those seem like things I want to avoid if possible. I think what I'm going to do is to put a mesh screen over the rear fan grate to catch any wayward cat hair, flip the rear case fan to be an intake, and set the cooler up as push-push from the left to right. I'll boost the fan curve for the top fan to help clear the air and the case has oodles of ventilation openings for air to exit. That has the added benefit of the CPU fans not pulling in air that was just exhausted by the GPU cooler but I'm not sure that matters all that much.
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Dec 12, 2023 19:49
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SpaceDrake posted:Thanks for pointing me to FanControl, Wibla. That's helped the noise situation a lot. My peerless assassin (on a 7700x) drives me absolutely insane with the noise, even after tweaking fan curves. I was going to copy your 7800X3D build posted here to drive 5120x1440. What's the quietest option for a cooler? Would it behoove me to get a bigger case or look into watercooling?
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Dec 12, 2023 22:38
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toothdevil posted:My peerless assassin (on a 7700x) drives me absolutely insane with the noise, even after tweaking fan curves. Are your thermals high while the cooler is loud? It's worth checking because the fan curves that come out of the box are usually terrible. You might be able to run the cooler at 20% of its current noise and find out that its still plenty cool.
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Dec 12, 2023 23:08
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toothdevil posted:My peerless assassin (on a 7700x) drives me absolutely insane with the noise, even after tweaking fan curves. Post your fan curve(s)
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Dec 12, 2023 23:09
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toothdevil posted:My peerless assassin (on a 7700x) drives me absolutely insane with the noise, even after tweaking fan curves. Replace the fans on your Peerless Assassin with some Arctic P12s. The body of the cooler is absolutely worth keeping.
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Dec 13, 2023 00:20
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brutal I didn't know the peerless assassin was loud, I've been recommending it to everyone who asks, luckily they don't ever listen.
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Dec 13, 2023 02:07
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Is the Scythe Big Shuriken 3 line discontinued? I can't find any new stock. What's the recommended low profile cooler these days instead? The Big Shuriken 3 was 69mm tall and pretty decent.
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Dec 13, 2023 02:12
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runaway dog posted:brutal I didn't know the peerless assassin was loud, I've been recommending it to everyone who asks, luckily they don't ever listen. I can't imagine it's bad, given how highly gamers nexus recommend it. Maybe op is particularly sensitive or has a hotbox of a case or something.
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Dec 13, 2023 02:40
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it's not loud But go ahead and get some noctua fans cuz they're good
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Dec 13, 2023 02:54
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Twerk from Home posted:Is the Scythe Big Shuriken 3 line discontinued? I can't find any new stock. What's the recommended low profile cooler these days instead? The Big Shuriken 3 was 69mm tall and pretty decent. ID-Cooling has a super expansive collection of low profile coolers that fit a ton of different height / width / overhang requirements This got me checking out ID-Cooling's current tower lineups and aww hell yeah now they got knockoff Deepcools with hell of gaudy RGBs 
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Dec 13, 2023 03:02
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Butterfly Valley posted:I can't imagine it's bad, given how highly gamers nexus recommend it. Maybe op is particularly sensitive or has a hotbox of a case or something. Wouldn't be the first time an item was the youtube darling and everyone failed to mention something I'd consider a deal breaker.
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Dec 13, 2023 03:06
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runaway dog posted:Wouldn't be the first time an item was the youtube darling and everyone failed to mention something I'd consider a deal breaker. Every PC cooler can be a billion db if you let it run at 100% for no reason. That's why reviewers will give you "noise-normalized" results where they only allow the fans to spin up to a certain dBA rating, and then measure temps at that same noise level for all the coolers. Timestamped: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mm4hyIHe1PM&t=1140s This is why you have to consider the temps you're getting. If you're at 30 celcius and your cooler is too loud you need to change the fan curve.
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Dec 13, 2023 03:12
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I'd say that if you're at 50C and the fans are too loud, you need to change the curve. Your fan curves are set by your motherboard bios, and by default they tend to be way too aggressive because the motherboard manufacturer has to account for people with terrible cooling setups. On my Gigabyte B650 board, the default "quiet" profile sends the fans to 100% at 50C or something, which is hilariously aggressive. Don't be afraid to let your CPU go into the 70s or 80s when under a very heavy load, and I would consider not even letting the PA120's fans go above 80% or so. Even at just moderate RPMs, that cooler is very good at soaking and dissipating heat. edit: Also I don't think it's really all that bad to have the front fan raised by 1.5cm, and it really doesn't matter if the memory is covered. Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 05:12 on Dec 13, 2023 |
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Dec 13, 2023 05:09
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Salt Fish posted:Are your thermals high while the cooler is loud? It's worth checking because the fan curves that come out of the box are usually terrible. You might be able to run the cooler at 20% of its current noise and find out that its still plenty cool. I am almost certain I am doing something wrong because my CPU likes to jump from 50C to 70C on a basic disk read. I redid the thermal paste but god knows I probably missed ten things on this build. Wibla posted:Post your fan curve(s) OK but prepare to point and laugh because I have no idea what I'm doing. grack posted:Replace the fans on your Peerless Assassin with some Arctic P12s. The body of the cooler is absolutely worth keeping. Since I'm giving this build away to a friend, I will almost certainly do that, thanks. Gunshow Poophole posted:it's not loud My main point of comparison is my old Noctua NH-D14, so I guess I'll go back to them. edit: to be clear, I set the curve that way because what was annoying me more than the noise at 100% was the constant fluctuating when playing games (at about 85C+, it often hits 90) toothdevil fucked around with this message at 06:21 on Dec 13, 2023 |
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Dec 13, 2023 06:19
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You almost never need to go above 60 or 70% fan speed. If you do, something else in your build has gone terribly wrong. E: spikes in temp that go back down quickly are perfectly fine and normal. It is sustained temps that need to be addressed. Also, to prevent big jumps in speed because of those temp spikes, there is something called hysterias that you want to look into.
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Dec 13, 2023 06:26
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runaway dog posted:brutal I didn't know the peerless assassin was loud, I've been recommending it to everyone who asks, luckily they don't ever listen. They are fine as long as you set a fan curve. I set mine to 60% max on a 7800X3D and it's fine.
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Dec 13, 2023 06:39
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Fans spinning up and down due to intermittent processor temps is just silly, anyways. The thermal mass of a 2kg block of aluminum is soooooo much higher than the cooling 2 fans push in a 10s period. It’s way more relevant to react to, like, ~10s moving averages of CPU temp. I assume that’s what’s actually happening under the hood but I’ve not been arsed to actually dig into it (…yet).
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Dec 13, 2023 06:40
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toothdevil posted:I was going to copy your 7800X3D build posted here to drive 5120x1440. What's the quietest option for a cooler? Would it behoove me to get a bigger case or look into watercooling? So, aside from fanchat (and messing with fan controls and setting a more sane curve did help my noise situation a lot - the general point is that a lot of motherboard default fan curves will neglect case fans and over-rely on the CPU cooler fan, and now that I've got a sane fan curve, the noise situation isn't nearly so bad, especially when actually using apps that have audio), I'm both a bit flattered and I need to point a few things out if you're going to largely copy my build. First, I ended up not using the old spinner drive, because I realized the data I actually wanted to keep from it amounted to less than 100GB; it was easier to just throw that on my existing WD Black 770 and transfer only that over. So the spinning rust is definitely not necessary and if you go with the 650M Pro RS, put a third NVMe drive in before you even consider any SATA drives.  More importantly, though, the intended use case of that machine design is to be Pretty Dang Good at standard 16:9 1440p, and deliberately hilarious overkill at 16:9 1080p (where I am now) so that I can throw settings on all current games to their absolute maximums and not care in the slightest, and not have to worry about settings and things too much until at least the next console generation or until I move on to a 1440p display. 1440 Super Ultrawide is nearly the pixel amount, and thus rendering complexity, of a 16:9 4K display, and while the 7800X3D would be up to the task, a humble 4070 is really not intended to go there as a native resolution and maintain 60 FPS. At a minimum, with this setup you are going to have to rely heavily on DLSS to upscale the image from SUW 1080 or lower if you want good performance. And even with that, I think 32:9 1440 is where you may want to consider a 4070 Ti SUPER or 4080 SUPER (or their AMD counterparts, if raytracing performance doesn't matter to you as much!) when they become a reality, if an absolutely consistent 60+FPS is your target. I've actually been extremely pleased with my 4070 (especially considering I got it for a sneeze over $500) but it does still have limits, both in its memory allocation and in raw computational power. I really am kind of  over people using my Posting as a guidepost, but you do need to have realistic expectations for what the hardware is capable of and is intended to do. So good luck with your build, and I hope it serves you well! Just keep in mind what the hardware chosen is best at.But back to the wider topic: the Thermalrights are really good and still worth recommending, but especially for folks who have been out of the upgrade game for a while I think it's worth attaching a note that for higher-performance parts like your 7800X3Ds and whatnot, it's not quite 2014 anymore and we're beyond the days of just chucking a Hyper 212 in there, letting the mobo control the fans and expecting it to be pin-drop quiet; you'll need to do a little fan control tinkering to achieve a good sound profile depending on your case.
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Dec 13, 2023 07:33
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toothdevil posted:edit: to be clear, I set the curve that way because what was annoying me more than the noise at 100% was the constant fluctuating when playing games (at about 85C+, it often hits 90) Those fans are doing nothing extra for you above 60-70%, I would try to set the "roof" at 70%. Also if you look at gamers nexus' review, pay close attention to the noise normalised graphs vs the 100% graphs. There's not a lot to be gained there.
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Dec 13, 2023 07:54
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How does the RX 7900 XT compare to the regular RTX 4070, and the 4070-Ti
Nissin Cup Nudist fucked around with this message at 08:40 on Dec 13, 2023 |
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Dec 13, 2023 08:30
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Alright I'll try to figure out why FanControl wasn't working.Wibla posted:Those fans are doing nothing extra for you above 60-70%, I would try to set the "roof" at 70%. Cool I will try that, I have definitely been irrationally stoner-paranoid about frying my machine. SpaceDrake posted:More importantly, though, the intended use case of that machine design is to be Pretty Dang Good at standard 16:9 1440p, and deliberately hilarious overkill at 16:9 1080p (where I am now) so that I can throw settings on all current games to their absolute maximums and not care in the slightest, and not have to worry about settings and things too much until at least the next console generation or until I move on to a 1440p display. 1440 Super Ultrawide is nearly the pixel amount, and thus rendering complexity, of a 16:9 4K display, and while the 7800X3D would be up to the task, a humble 4070 is really not intended to go there as a native resolution and maintain 60 FPS. At a minimum, with this setup you are going to have to rely heavily on DLSS to upscale the image from SUW 1080 or lower if you want good performance. And even with that, I think 32:9 1440 is where you may want to consider a 4070 Ti SUPER or 4080 SUPER (or their AMD counterparts, if raytracing performance doesn't matter to you as much!) when they become a reality, if an absolutely consistent 60+FPS is your target. I've actually been extremely pleased with my 4070 (especially considering I got it for a sneeze over $500) but it does still have limits, both in its memory allocation and in raw computational power. edit: If I were to go with a 4080 Super, would I need to change anything else about the build? toothdevil fucked around with this message at 09:05 on Dec 13, 2023 |
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Dec 13, 2023 08:49
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Nissin Cup Nudist posted:How does the RX 7900 XT compare to the regular RTX 4070, and the 4070-Ti The 7900XT is comparable to a 4070 Ti. This is where a lot of the "RTX 4000 is a bad value" stuff comes from - in pure raster performance (e.g., traditional game lighting) the RX 7000s outperform the RTX 4000s, often fairly dramatically (edit: although "dramatic outperformance" is relative at this level; if the goal is "1440p maxed settings no raytracing" performance at or above 60FPS, anything from the $500 4070/7800XT level onward will handle that like a tractor mowing down wheat. Even the 4060Ti and a number of previous-gen cards can do well there.) The AMD parts also tend to have more RAM compared to their NV counterparts. Needless to say, it smacks the pants off a standard 4070 in most tests, which it should, since it costs US$250 more than the 4070. The 4070 Ti costs about the same, and has worse raster performance but has all the new Nvidia stuff like DLSS3 and vastly superior ray tracing support. Basically it comes down to what you're looking to do. If you don't care about raytracing so much, the 7900XT is a great pick at its price point. If you do care about it, though, wait until next month and see what the final specs and performance of the 4000 SUPER line is like, then make a decision. toothdevil posted:Alright I'll try to figure out why FanControl wasn't working. Mind that we're talking about the specific FanControl program. Depending on your motherboard, specific mobo utilities might not give you quite as fine or intuitive control. quote:Cool I will try that, I have definitely been irrationally stoner-paranoid about frying my machine. Salt Fish actually had a great quote about this a few days back: modern CPUs use heat like a budget. It's no longer really possible to "fry" a CPU outside of a massive motherboard malfunction; CPUs have a given thermal limit and will underclock themselves if they're in danger of hitting that limit. It's a problem if a CPU is constantly slamming into its thermal wall and underclocking itself (because you aren't getting the performance you've paid for) and if it stays like that all the time that could affect the very long-term longevity of a part, but it's perfectly normal, and even acceptable, for a CPU to consistently hang out at 70 or even 80°C under heavy load. So long as you aren't hitting the thermal limit, you're perfectly fine and won't suffer malfunctions. For what it's worth, here's the FanControl settings I use. I consistently get 70° on the GPU and between 60 and 70° on the CPU at load with this, albeit right now in a fairly cool pacific northwest winter:  I'm tempted to even turn the CPU fan down to 50% max to help with load noise a bit more; at idle, it's as pin-drop quiet as my old Hyper 212 & Antec P100 setup. The GPU I leave on its factory curve since it works well enough and doesn't even activate the fans at idle. quote:So I guess I should wait till January then? If I were to go with a 4080 Ti Super, would I need to change anything else about the build? Well, it'll be a 4080 Super (yes, the naming convention here gets confusing as poo poo thanks to twenty years of marketing cruft), but yeah, we're close enough to the heavily-rumored reveal that it'll pay to see what the final announcement looks like, since the 4070, 4070 Ti and 4080 are all on the board to get ~SUPER~ versions. It'd be best to wait for those to get formally announced, see when they're coming out and at what price, and make a decision then. Pre-Black Friday, it might've been a good idea to get something now on a good deal, but with the new parts that much closer now, we're over the "wait and see what's up" line. Nothing else about the build would change, short of needing a slightly beefier power supply to support a bigger card (and possibly looking into an anti-sag support for the card). SpaceDrake fucked around with this message at 09:36 on Dec 13, 2023 |
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Dec 13, 2023 09:25
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:The intended fan setup on this cooler (and pretty much all other dual-tower coolers) is push-push from front to back. You should move the left CPU fan to the front of the cooler on the right, and you should unclip the center fan from the right tower and clip to to the left tower instead, with the intention that air will be pushed from right to left through the cooler (from the perspective of this image). This isn't mandatory since it clearly works okay as it is, but it should result in more optimal cooling performance, and it may even alter the sound it makes a little (if the high-pitch whine is air turbulence instead of motor hum). I flipped them and the noise got much more agreeable, so you were right that the high pitch component was air turbulence. I actually recorded the noise of the thing at various PWM settings since I saw everyone talking about how loud it is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xwtx3Bnh2w8 Watch out @1:15, the case clips snapping into place are very loud compared to everything else so if you turned your headphones up you could have a bad time. I was about 8 feet away from the camera, facing the opposite direction and speaking quietly when reading off the PWM settings. The GPU comparison is an EVGA 3070 XC3 Ultra (3-fan).
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Dec 13, 2023 20:44
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More of a build vs. buy question. I haven’t needed to worry about hardware for years. But now I’d like to play around LLMs and possibly diffusion models locally. I can kind of get smaller versions of the latter to run but it’s very slow on my intel era Mac. My question is, is it cheaper to build something or look for a newer used Mac? I take it RAM is important but I’ve completely lost the plot on GPUs these days.
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Dec 13, 2023 21:16
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If I get a 2 TB drive or whatever as primary storage, but want a secondary drive to install Windows on, how big should the second drive be?
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Dec 13, 2023 21:27
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Nissin Cup Nudist posted:If I get a 2 TB drive or whatever as primary storage, but want a secondary drive to install Windows on, how big should the second drive be? Drives are so cheap now that you should just get two 2tb ones. Seriously unless you are like super penny pinching it’s just easier to get 2tb for both. The days of having a smaller drive just for windows are kinda over with imo.
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Dec 13, 2023 21:35
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Centrist Committee posted:More of a build vs. buy question. I haven’t needed to worry about hardware for years. But now I’d like to play around LLMs and possibly diffusion models locally. I can kind of get smaller versions of the latter to run but it’s very slow on my intel era Mac. It's almost always going to be cheaper to build than to buy, and especially cheaper to build than to buy a Mac. That said, depending on what you're doing if your workflow relies on specific MacOS software or features then you're going to be better off looking at a new Mac. They have neural engine cores in their custom silicon that are pretty good at machine learning and all that jazz. If you don't have any Mac-specific dependencies though there are PC builds that'll get you what you're wanting for much less. Other thing to consider is if this is mission critical or just hobby work. If it's mission critical it might be better to buy a system just for any up-time guarantee or one-stop-shop for service if something goes wrong.
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Dec 13, 2023 21:51
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Nissin Cup Nudist posted:If I get a 2 TB drive or whatever as primary storage, but want a secondary drive to install Windows on, how big should the second drive be? MarcusSA posted:Drives are so cheap now that you should just get two 2tb ones. Pretty much. Windows also doesn't hopelessly corrupt itself often these days, at least in my experience; you're fine getting a decent-sized drive and just slapping other stuff aside from your OS on it. As we've gone over, the days of spinning rust are pretty much entirely over, and that also goes for having small install drives. Especially with m.2 slots still not being limitless on all but the most expensive motherboards, you may as well just grab a pair of 2TBs or whatever the gently caress and put Windows on one of them and use the other as pure storage or w/e.
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Dec 14, 2023 01:28
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Branch Nvidian posted:It's almost always going to be cheaper to build than to buy, and especially cheaper to build than to buy a Mac. That said, depending on what you're doing if your workflow relies on specific MacOS software or features then you're going to be better off looking at a new Mac. They have neural engine cores in their custom silicon that are pretty good at machine learning and all that jazz. If you don't have any Mac-specific dependencies though there are PC builds that'll get you what you're wanting for much less. Hobby machine, no critical workflows. Nothing Mac specific either. It’s what I’m used to but I’ve used windows and Linux in the past. Used to be I could google a hardware guide, but search is useless these days
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Dec 14, 2023 02:42
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