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I thought metal tanks were a crash requirement. That's why the dirt only DRZ had a plastic tank, and the street legal ones have metal.
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Dec 9, 2023 02:32
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Deeters posted:I thought metal tanks were a crash requirement. That's why the dirt only DRZ had a plastic tank, and the street legal ones have metal. My drz has a plastic tank. Ive never seen a metal drz tank I dont think. Dr650 has a metal tank.
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Dec 9, 2023 06:17
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The SM drz has a metal tank
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Dec 9, 2023 06:22
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Deeters posted:I thought metal tanks were a crash requirement. That's why the dirt only DRZ had a plastic tank, and the street legal ones have metal. I think it's this.
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Dec 9, 2023 06:23
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Various very fast Ducatis have plastic tanks
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Dec 9, 2023 06:24
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Plastic gas tanks are bad when: 1) The PO stripped a screw that holds a dirtbike/Supermoto fairing to the gas tank and so you can never remove the screw. 2) They reach 15-20 years old and they become brittle and crack. (Issue I've had on two cars now...)
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Dec 9, 2023 08:15
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Slavvy posted:The SM drz has a metal tank So does the S. And to your Ducati example, I was thinking that was because they were low and protected by the frame. But I just remembered that my old Blast had a plastic tank, fully exposed to any crash or drop, so I take back my guess.
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Dec 9, 2023 17:55
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my drz's metal tank evap line broke off internally and dumped a tank of gas while filling it up to go to work. MetaJew posted:Plastic gas tanks are bad when: Soldering iron with a blunt tip. heat the old one out. press in a new nutsert. done. Plastic tanks go bad when the tanks don't equalize properly because of the hokey evap system and its various half dozen one way valves. The dealer fix is to just drill a hole in each tank and put a tube between the tanks. If you guessed KTM, you guessed right.
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Dec 9, 2023 18:08
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Beve Stuscemi posted:What year goldwing? I thought they were all metal? '21, looked like an ABS tank to me unless there's a shroud over it (I've only had half the body work off and wasn't messing with anything that required removing the tank)
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Dec 10, 2023 19:36
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cursedshitbox posted:my drz's metal tank evap line broke off internally and dumped a tank of gas while filling it up to go to work. How'd you guess that mine was a KTM? 
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Dec 11, 2023 00:24
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Just a hunch.
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Dec 11, 2023 01:17
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Mechanical opinions time: In short, a 2007 KTM 250 SXF with a new piston, cylinder, head, has this behavior in the linked video. Must have sound on. It starts great, but the hotter it gets it starts to miss, eventually stalling. I fear something is mechanically "sticking" as it gets hot and thermal expansion occurs. I tore it down and didnt see anything though. I did not replace the bottom end when I did this - the crank bearings and conrod had no play. https://imgur.com/a/JXR5uk9 Long story: I picked up a free 2007 KTM 250 SXF last year originally with the intention of hanging it over the entrance to the hero section on my woods track as fine art. However, the besides the top end of the motor, the bike was in really good shape - all the bearings were good, brakes were great. I decided to tear down the top end to see what we had. The top end clearly had a seized cam. The cam bridge has brass jets to shoot oil on the cam journals, and they were all melted. The exhaust cam was destroyed on its bearing surface. The bottom end tested good - no play in the con-rod or crank. A friend happened to have a piston, cylinder, and head for FREE on his shelf from way back in the day. I purchased a new cam bridge and chain, re-used the intake cam, and ebayed an exhaust cam. Full disclosure I repolished the cam bearing surface cuz it wasn't the absolute smoothest, but it was after I was done. I washed out the bottom end with gas to get anything out of there, and rebuilt with all new parts. Bike starts and runs great as you can see in the video, until it heats up and starts that missing/binding noise. Any ideas what to do next? I would love it if I did something stupid and it was a simple "replace this" fix.
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Dec 18, 2023 20:37
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Are you sure you aren't just losing spark? Valve clearances ok? You could check if it's physically seizing by using the kick starter when it stalls and seeing if it still turns over ok Slavvy fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Dec 18, 2023 |
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Dec 18, 2023 20:45
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Slavvy posted:Are you sure you aren't just losing spark? Its never seized after stalled - clearances are within spec. No idea on spark. Spark is big and fat on the stand. I wouldn't expect the coil would get very hot when running so unsure how its related to it starting when hot or more importantly, how to test that. Could just blindly swaptronix it.
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Dec 18, 2023 20:59
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I'm thinking the crank pickup is overheating or even the stator coil itself You can test it using an inline spark tester If the clearances are ok and it isn't physically seizing there isn't much else it can be tbh
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Dec 18, 2023 21:09
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Slavvy posted:
woah never seen one of these before - cool. I'll give it a try, thanks for the lead. My local dirtbike group thinks its spark or the oil pump is bad causing the cams to snag
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Dec 18, 2023 21:14
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I think if the cams were binding you'd feel it on the kick starter The way it so neatly drops out one combustion event at a time instead of running raggedly just screams spark to me
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Dec 18, 2023 21:21
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Get a spray bottle and mist some water over the ignition parts and see if it gets worse. What does the spark plug look like? Wet/fuely/sooty by any chance?
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Dec 18, 2023 21:31
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LimaBiker posted:Get a spray bottle and mist some water over the ignition parts and see if it gets worse. Did all that - no response, spark plugs new.
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Dec 18, 2023 21:35
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Slavvy posted:I think if the cams were binding you'd feel it on the kick starter When my cams siezed on my 2016 KTM it took forever to figure out what was going on because it'd just restart and go. That had slightly different behavior though, at high load it'd just slowly die.
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Dec 18, 2023 21:36
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shacked up with Brenda posted:Did all that - no response, spark plugs new. Do you mean 'the spark plugs are freshly installed' or 'the spark plugs look as if they were never used'? Checking the plugs can tell you if an engine is running too lean or too rich. If it loses spark, i'd expect a damp, possibly somewhat sooty plug.
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Dec 18, 2023 21:38
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LimaBiker posted:Do you mean 'the spark plugs are freshly installed' or 'the spark plugs look as if they were never used'? The plug is brand new and when its examined after one of these events its a nice beautiful brown. There's no intake leaks, the jetting and accelerator pump is per MXA specs, no stumbles or halts in the rev up, no bogs.
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Dec 18, 2023 21:40
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An overnight post on VitalMX also thinks its the oil pump. So while I wait for the spark tester I'm going to do a tear down again and check that. I'll also (again) blow out the oil passages.
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Dec 19, 2023 13:49
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i didn't do any winterizing for my xr-150 or my ruckus because i didn't have a car and expected to ride these through the winter. in a turn of events, i was given a van (hell yeah) but i still intend to ride these bikes this winter. what should i do to keep them in a good state? should i let them idle occasionally or what? it'll be a couple weeks between rides i'm sure, especially when the snow comes. also i acquired an "atv" trickle charger in a box of junk i found and it seems to be in working order. i'm gonna do some googling but the directions say i need to take the battery out of the bike to use it. that sounds like a big pain in the rear end. should i just keep two batteries laying around for each bike? probably should've posted these in the newbies thread but i thought it might get more eyes here. thanks a ton!
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Dec 26, 2023 23:49
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knuthgrush posted:i didn't do any winterizing for my xr-150 or my ruckus because i didn't have a car and expected to ride these through the winter. in a turn of events, i was given a van (hell yeah) but i still intend to ride these bikes this winter. what should i do to keep them in a good state? should i let them idle occasionally or what? it'll be a couple weeks between rides i'm sure, especially when the snow comes. Idling them will do more harm than good, don't start them unless you're going to actually ride them long enough to get the oil hot. Just keep em on a tender til then. You do not need to remove the battery to hook up a tender.
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Dec 27, 2023 01:46
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opengl posted:Idling them will do more harm than good, don't start them unless you're going to actually ride them long enough to get the oil hot. Just keep em on a tender til then. Rad, thanks!
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Dec 27, 2023 02:11
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A couple of weeks between rides is not that long but if it can stretch longer I’d consider topping up with non-etanol fuel or fuel stabiliser when you park them. Ofc more relevant if they are carbed.
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Dec 27, 2023 10:46
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knuthgrush posted:i didn't do any winterizing for my xr-150 or my ruckus because i didn't have a car and expected to ride these through the winter. in a turn of events, i was given a van (hell yeah) but i still intend to ride these bikes this winter. what should i do to keep them in a good state? should i let them idle occasionally or what? it'll be a couple weeks between rides i'm sure, especially when the snow comes. Wait, how recent are these bikes? The XR-150 probably has a carburetor, but aren't recent Ruckuses fuel injected? You don't have to worry about winterizing fuel injected bikes, unless you're thinking old-timer stuff like rubbing oil on exposed chrome parts (can't even think of any of that on the Ruckus).
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Dec 27, 2023 14:39
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Slide Hammer posted:You don't have to worry about winterizing fuel injected bikes. Current bike is sitting with a nearly full tank of E5 fancy fuel with a splash of stabilizer and I have every confidence it will run like a champ come spring.
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Dec 27, 2023 15:11
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Anyone know what the go is with Ducati 2V belt intervals in mileage instead of age? The belts on my mts1100 are meant to be replaced every 2 or 5 years depending on who you ask. Cool, great, I’ll split the difference and make it 3ish. But I’ve also put 30,000 km on the bike in the last 18 months. That’s probably more than ten years of typical Ducati use. Am I being an idiot to leave them on?
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Dec 28, 2023 06:09
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I would replace those yeah, you can do a visual check to see if there's any cracking etc but if you've got a particular vintage and construction of belt, sometimes the stitches holding the two ends together can snap abruptly and there's no real way to see that coming in advance.
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Dec 28, 2023 06:37
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Slide Hammer posted:Wait, how recent are these bikes? The XR-150 probably has a carburetor, but aren't recent Ruckuses fuel injected? You don't have to worry about winterizing fuel injected bikes, unless you're thinking old-timer stuff like rubbing oil on exposed chrome parts (can't even think of any of that on the Ruckus). both are 2023, both are carbed. Supradog posted:A couple of weeks between rides is not that long but if it can stretch longer I’d consider topping up with non-etanol fuel or fuel stabiliser when you park them. Ofc more relevant if they are carbed. i only ever run non-ethanol in them. i'll toss some fuel stabilizer in them when i do the same for the lawnmower.
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Dec 30, 2023 03:23
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Slavvy posted:I would replace those yeah, you can do a visual check to see if there's any cracking etc but if you've got a particular vintage and construction of belt, sometimes the stitches holding the two ends together can snap abruptly and there's no real way to see that coming in advance. Yeah, that seems reasonable. My maths was off, and I've done about 23k on them - which is just shy of the 24k that ducati spec the same belt for on a scrambler 1100 these days - so, um, yeah. Next question: clogged fuel filter- that'd cause a lean condition and corresponding high temperatures yeah? How I got to the timing belt question in the first place was that the bike's started struggling a bit at high revs and overheating (again, at high revs) halfway through a road trip to my mum's for Christmas. It all started after a particular tank of fuel at a suspiciously cheap country station My first thought was/is clogged fuel filter, but I've been checking off potential issues on a ease-of-access basis rather than a likelihood of being the culprit because I don't have my own garage here. Plugs I can check in the driveway. No problem. Belt tension and oil? Yeah, fine. It doesn't seem like a timing thing but I may as well see if my engine's cactus. They seem ok. Taking the fuel tank off this thing? Yeah, gently caress that, let's check the easy stuff first. Anyway, all the other stuff has checked out fine, and now I'm looking at pulling the tank and inspecting/replacing the filter because all the other stuff hasn't turned anything up and I still have the same issue - low power at high revs, high temperatures at high revs - and it's a 2000km trip home so I want to sort it out before I head off. So, um, yeah, I am barking up a reasonable tree, right? Clogged filter: lean mix, less power, high temperatures?
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Dec 30, 2023 06:25
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You can have a go doing the fuel filter, it won't hurt, and if it was literally dirty fuel that could happen, but my gut tells me you'll get in there and find it's the pump or perhaps a crack in an internal line. Or it's totally unrelated and you have a vacuum leak or bad clearances or something.
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Dec 30, 2023 07:35
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Slavvy posted:You can have a go doing the fuel filter, it won't hurt, and if it was literally dirty fuel that could happen, but my gut tells me you'll get in there and find it's the pump or perhaps a crack in an internal line. Or it's totally unrelated and you have a vacuum leak or bad clearances or something. Sigh. Judging by the metal particles I'm seeing in my plastic fuel tank your gut was right about the pump.
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Dec 31, 2023 01:21
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Lol rip You might have to scoop out the injectors and blast the back of them out with some compressed air in case stuff made it past the filter and is sitting on the little intake meshes they've got
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Dec 31, 2023 02:26
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Slavvy posted:Lol rip  Yah, I figured. Any hot tips on cleaning the tank and fuel flange out when I replace the pump?
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Dec 31, 2023 02:50
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Compressed air is your friend, I would avoid any kind of substances on your plastic tank or the associated gaskets.
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Dec 31, 2023 03:02
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VitalMX seems to be right - it was an oil starvation problem.  Problem now is I have no root cause - I've got it stripped down to the cases and blew out the oil passages again. I dissasembled the oil pump (I didn't do that on rebuild) but it looks mint. Blew out all those passages too. Hmm.
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Jan 2, 2024 14:28
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I find it hard to believe the engine was outright stopping with the scuffing being that minor, you'd expect the metal to look friction welded. It also would drop out sporadically like it was, it would just stop.
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Jan 2, 2024 19:32
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