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Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

EdsTeioh posted:

I shook it until there wasn't anything clinging to the bottom and dipped my brush all the way down.

Did you get any "debris" out when you applied it? It's slightly gritty and if you let it dry on the brush it will cause it to splay like mad. If you didn't get any debris could the active ingredient precipitated out of the solution?

It's not easy to use but it shouldn't give you the low-grade Agrax effect you got. There should be some bright orange bits coming. Beginning to think you got a dud bottle.

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EdsTeioh
Oct 23, 2004

PRAY FOR DEATH


Bo-Pepper posted:

That Modern Masters Metal Effects stuff looks pretty great though. Appreciate showing off the different products.

Thanks, yeah I like that stuff a lot! If you're in the states, you can get it at JoAnn Fabric and use their coupon on it; comes out to about $16 for 2oz of the paint and activator.


Z the IVth posted:

Did you get any "debris" out when you applied it? It's slightly gritty and if you let it dry on the brush it will cause it to splay like mad. If you didn't get any debris could the active ingredient precipitated out of the solution?

It's not easy to use but it shouldn't give you the low-grade Agrax effect you got. There should be some bright orange bits coming. Beginning to think you got a dud bottle.


I think you might be right on the dud bottle. Like I said, I shook it forever, warmed it up, stirred it, got stuff from the bottom of the bottle, dripped it right on, let it sit, tried the hair dryer and that's still all I'm getting. I'm going to hang out with one of the dudes from Necromacho tomorrow and compare our bottles to see what's up.

EdsTeioh fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Dec 28, 2023

Prawned
Oct 25, 2010

Drunken_Pirate posted:

Apologies if I'm teaching you to suck eggs:

The odd stray hair is common on a sable brush but in my experience, 5+ is a bit many and may be due to poor packaging. Sometimes I've bought brushes where the plastic tube bristle protector has been pushed on carelessly.

One solution is to use brush soap. It's relatively cheap and will last a lifetime. Get the brush wet, pull it backwards through the soap while swishing it from side to side, then do the same in the palm of your hand. Repeat until everything is clear (i.e. no more paint/ dried pigment). Then, wet the brush again, get it coated heavily in brush soap, roll the brush to achieve a nice tip and leave it to dry with the soap still on. This should nicely reshape the brush.

It's common for sable brushes to spread when dry, although splitting tends to happen because paint dried in the ferrule. As a rule of thumb, try to avoid getting paint on the bottom third of your bristles to prevent this. If you think paint has dried in the ferrule, you can solve this with a soak in some IPA for 10-60 minutes. You'll need to recondition the hairs afterwards, you can do this with literal hair conditioner or with brush soap. Some people argue that IPA is too harsh and can damage the brush, this has never happened in my experience, but keep in mind it may be a possibility. Try brush soap first.

Thank you, and Lostconfused. First time using these kinds of brushes but it just felt like they shouldn't be quite so rough straight out the box, especially as most of them aren't. I'm quite careful using and cleaning, being sure not to get paint into the ferrule (or even halfway up the brush), but these were scrappy right from first use. I have brush soap which I use religiously.

They do straighten up fine when wet and pulled/twisted, just after a bit of use they scraggle again. Guess I'll just treat that as a reminder that it's time to rinse!

In other exciting news, I started and finished a termagant today, first time I've ever done a model in one sitting (although the base is still to be done). Definitely getting better at working fast which is nice, not that I'm in a rush. I really like the new models, its night and day coming from doing old hormagaunts.

Bo-Pepper
Sep 9, 2002

Want some rye?
Course ya do!

Fun Shoe

EdsTeioh posted:

Thanks, yeah I like that stuff a lot! If you're in the states, you can get it at JoAnn Fabric and use their coupon on it; comes out to about $16 for 2oz of the paint and activator.


Looks like JoAnn Fabric doesn't deliver that product even though I'm in the States and it's weirdly expensive on Amazon? Still, I could see myself springing for that at some point. It's a nice effect.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice
Gonna stick with my magic recipe for terrain rust: Brown and Orange craft paint.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Lumpy posted:

Gonna stick with my magic recipe for terrain rust: Brown and Orange craft paint.

Hull Red and fluorescent orange mixed in various levels are mine. Basically stolen from angel giraldez

Bo-Pepper
Sep 9, 2002

Want some rye?
Course ya do!

Fun Shoe
Going to see if I can do the finishing touches on my Ork Combat Patrol this long weekend and post the final pieces.

Been fun getting into this over the last few months.

After this, the KILL RIG.

EdsTeioh
Oct 23, 2004

PRAY FOR DEATH


DDR update: I guess this stuff is uh...kind of working? Still just looks like monkey poo poo smeared on walls and I'm completely unimpressed with it, especially given the amount of time I've spent loving with this stuff today.



Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Athas posted:


Of course, my partner is as always outdoing my completely, this time with a rainbow Yvraine.



This looks awesome!

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

EdsTeioh posted:

DDR update: I guess this stuff is uh...kind of working? Still just looks like monkey poo poo smeared on walls and I'm completely unimpressed with it, especially given the amount of time I've spent loving with this stuff today.





Go back with a damp brush and tidy up the edges. It behaves like a pigment when dry and can be cleaned off. It's definitely not as convenient as using a plain orange wash.

Spanish Manlove posted:

Hull Red and fluorescent orange mixed in various levels are mine. Basically stolen from angel giraldez

Gonna yoink that one. I've used watered down Orange Brown but it's just Ok.

EdsTeioh
Oct 23, 2004

PRAY FOR DEATH


Z the IVth posted:

Go back with a damp brush and tidy up the edges. It behaves like a pigment when dry and can be cleaned off. It's definitely not as convenient as using a plain orange wash.



I did. Several times. I'm just taking the loss on this stuff TBH and gonna send it back.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

EdsTeioh posted:

Yeah, I did all that and still got the results I linked above. I'm gonna stick with my other methods but I'm really mad I wasted $30 on this poo poo.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=luKDM6vDRmI

weird, it looks good here

EdsTeioh
Oct 23, 2004

PRAY FOR DEATH



Yeah, it looks great in all the videos!

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Z the IVth posted:

Go back with a damp brush and tidy up the edges. It behaves like a pigment when dry and can be cleaned off. It's definitely not as convenient as using a plain orange wash.

Gonna yoink that one. I've used watered down Orange Brown but it's just Ok.

Here's the video I got the recipe from, it's super easy on flat surfaces, more tough on intricate things but basically a lot of stippling/sponging will do it

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIQeaEe6gz8&t=1026s

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007




Finally finished this...criticisms welcome...

Yeast
Dec 25, 2006

$1900 Grande Latte

GreenBuckanneer posted:




Finally finished this...criticisms welcome...

Well done!

My only feedback would be consider pushing the saturation in the skin a little bit so he's a bit greener, and maybe a tad more red in the 'present's' flame.

Other than that, jobs a good 'un. Love the cloak detail!

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Great work on that cloak- I’m currently tackling dark red leatherish fabric for my Tau.

Suggestion would be to have some wood colouring on the pistol grips and do a few more rounds of back-and-forth with the dynamite stripes to even them out, since the viewer’s eye will be drawn to it.

Shoehead
Sep 28, 2005

Wassup, Choom?
Ya need sumthin'?
She's nearly done, just her black highlights and that drat white stripe and she'll be ready to assemble... carefully

Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

Practicing my NMM. It's easy to brute force something to make it look shiny, so I'm focusing on highlight placement and making it more interesting with more bounces and colour tones. It's a lot of fun just to slow down and focus on one or two bits of the model at once.

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(

Radiation Cow posted:

Practicing my NMM. It's easy to brute force something to make it look shiny, so I'm focusing on highlight placement and making it more interesting with more bounces and colour tones. It's a lot of fun just to slow down and focus on one or two bits of the model at once.



You're, like, super loving good at this

EdsTeioh
Oct 23, 2004

PRAY FOR DEATH


OK SO I spent some time chatting with the Dirty Down Rust folks today to see if I did indeed end up with a bad batch. They were really quick about getting back to me and ended up hitting me up on Instagram and sent pics back and forth. He gave me some pointers and it's like night and day! Super nice guy and even gave me a coupon code for future use. Basically I think they trick is "this stuff doesn't work terribly well over silver"





Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Well, silver isn't supposed to rust like iron, realistic.

EdsTeioh
Oct 23, 2004

PRAY FOR DEATH


Chrome and polished steel will both absolutely rust.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Professor Shark posted:

Great work on that cloak- I’m currently tackling dark red leatherish fabric for my Tau.

Suggestion would be to have some wood colouring on the pistol grips and do a few more rounds of back-and-forth with the dynamite stripes to even them out, since the viewer’s eye will be drawn to it.

Oh that's a good point, I had thought of that. The pistol stood out to me too, but that's how it is on the box art...

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

EdsTeioh posted:

Chrome and polished steel will both absolutely rust.

Specifically, chrome doesn't rust; it does oxidize, but it very quickly forms a passivized layer that just looks like dull chrome (and can be wiped off pretty easily). However, chrome plating chips or blisters, allowing the underlying steel to rust. When weathering chrome-plated steel, think of it as a layer of silver paint.

Chips or soft friction wear can breach it, showing duller underlying steel (unless it's a very sharp cut) the same way chipping paint shows primer. That duller metal can rust, starting around where water collects: generally the bottom of the chip, unless the chip itself should be holding or directing water.

Like with paint, water can also infiltrate chrome plating, forming rust-textured bubbles that are easier to breach, revealing the underlying rust. This is especially likely with cheap plating.

EdsTeioh
Oct 23, 2004

PRAY FOR DEATH


Cease to Hope posted:

Specifically, chrome doesn't rust; it does oxidize, but it very quickly forms a passivized layer that just looks like dull chrome (and can be wiped off pretty easily). However, chrome plating chips or blisters, allowing the underlying steel to rust. When weathering chrome-plated steel, think of it as a layer of silver paint.

Chips or soft friction wear can breach it, showing duller underlying steel (unless it's a very sharp cut) the same way chipping paint shows primer. That duller metal can rust, starting around where water collects: generally the bottom of the chip, unless the chip itself should be holding or directing water.

Like with paint, water can also infiltrate chrome plating, forming rust-textured bubbles that are easier to breach, revealing the underlying rust. This is especially likely with cheap plating.

That's very thorough and accurate!

Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

Harvey Mantaco posted:

You're, like, super loving good at this

Lol, thanks. The secret is to be on multiple painting discords with people better than you and feel like a complete failure 90% of the time.

High-level display painting is wild, there are people doing some truly insane stuff. It's really taken off as an art form in the past decade or so.

Ravus Ursus
Mar 30, 2017

Radiation Cow posted:

Lol, thanks. The secret is to be on multiple painting discords with people better than you and feel like a complete failure 90% of the time.

High-level display painting is wild, there are people doing some truly insane stuff. It's really taken off as an art form in the past decade or so.

You gotta do the opposite too. Go into eBay and Etsy and see the painted works people are successfully selling and realize, hey, you're in the right side of the bell curve and that's really all you should aspire to.

Shoehead
Sep 28, 2005

Wassup, Choom?
Ya need sumthin'?
Walk into your local GW store and see if you can paint better than the employees yet, that's my benchmark atm

Cardboard Fox
Feb 8, 2009

[Tentatively Excited]

Radiation Cow posted:

Lol, thanks. The secret is to be on multiple painting discords with people better than you and feel like a complete failure 90% of the time.

High-level display painting is wild, there are people doing some truly insane stuff. It's really taken off as an art form in the past decade or so.

It was definitely a mistake watching pros paint prior to beginning myself. Some of the ways they make a color blend on a simple flat piece is just unreal. "Oh yeah, and for step 237 I'll just make a simple 1:4:2:1 glaze of all the paints I've used".

I think my plan right now is to get good at panting specific materials one at a time, and then adding it all together for 1 really good model. Metal > Scales > Leather/Cloth > Skin > Faces is my current list. I'll let you know when I get half way decent with one...

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

Straight outta Sussex:

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Personally I found seeing pros painting to be very helpful because it shows how much time and work goes into the process and I know I don't put in nearly as much into doing any of this.

This of course doesn't work when people pull video trickery and just cut out various parts of the process and make it look like a step that took 10 minutes happened in 40 seconds.

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe
As always never believe everything you see on the Internet. Much like supermodels, miniatures can also be touched up in post.

Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

Lostconfused posted:

Personally I found seeing pros painting to be very helpful because it shows how much time and work goes into the process and I know I don't put in nearly as much into doing any of this.

This of course doesn't work when people pull video trickery and just cut out various parts of the process and make it look like a step that took 10 minutes happened in 40 seconds.

This is why I strongly recommend Erik Swinson. His YouTube videos are unedited Twitch streams, and you see every single step and brush stroke. He works fast, and it's interesting to see how quickly he gets high-level results.

Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008

Southern Heel posted:

Straight outta Sussex:



gently caress yes! You playing 2nd ed at 15mm?

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

Virtual Russian posted:

gently caress yes! You playing 2nd ed at 15mm?

Rogue Trader babay! :heysexy:

Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008

Even better! Though I must admit to never playing RT, and I only got about a year of 2nd in.

Are they 15mm? Whatever scale, they look great, the scale your using really works with the oldhammer look. They feel like the og beakies.

Slyphic
Oct 12, 2021

All we do is walk around believing birds!

Ravus Ursus posted:

You gotta do the opposite too. Go into eBay and Etsy and see the painted works people are successfully selling and realize, hey, you're in the right side of the bell curve and that's really all you should aspire to.
Legit advice. Searching 'Pro Painted' in eBay is a surefire way to make you feel better about your own models.

Bohemian Nights
Jul 14, 2006

When I wake up,
I look into the mirror
I can see a clearer, vision
I should start living today
Clapping Larry
I enjoy listening to the podcast (and watching the work) of Siege Studios- they seem like nice dudes and they produce great models, mostly in the 'eavy metal style, which I appreciate since that's the style I'm trying to emulate, for no other reason than that's what my teenage self aspired to

Obviously the dudes at siege are insanely talented and decades ahead of me in terms of skill, but I can zoom in on their pictures and usually see how they've gone about getting the desired results, and with enough time, finesse and practice I'm reasonably sure I could produce something similar, which feels very encouraging


.. but then I see mindblowing stuff like this (from @elminiaturista on IG) and I feel like I'm a particularly fat-fingered chimpanzee trying to make paint rollers work for miniature painting, I wouldn't even know where or how to begin to replicate something in this style:

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Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Well, a dark grey basecoat seems like a good starting place.

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