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priznat
Jul 7, 2009

Let's get drunk and kiss each other all night.
My plate holder came with bolts sticking out and dome nuts to attach the plate. I like this way. Also I installed a little plastic holder for the “HOV OK” sticker on the rear plate so I don’t have to stick it on the car itself. Our province has the dumbest thing for clean vehicles, it was supposed to only last for 5 years but 15 years later.. other provinces get special plates and poo poo!

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OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002

Cockmaster posted:

It seems that according to the latest rumors, Tesla's Shanghai factory is going to shut down over the Chinese New Year holiday to retool for limited production of the Project Juniper Model Y. For anyone thinking of buying one and wondering if the redesigned model would be worth waiting for, being able to see the final design relatively soon would be helpful in making an informed decision.

After only three or four years? That shouldn't happen either.

Reminds me of how Nissan specifies that the Leaf have its brake fluid changed every 15,000 miles. When questioned, a Nissan representative claimed that it's related to the regenerative braking system, but couldn't elaborate further (which is complete bullshit seeing as the regen brake means less work for the hydraulic brakes):

https://insideevs.com/news/322861/exclusive-heres-why-nissan-recommends-changing-leaf-brake-fluid-annually/

for ICE vehicles it's pretty common to start doing flushes after 3 years. and while a EV will use the brakes less it doesn't stop the fluid from by hygroscopic.

Elviscat
Jan 1, 2008

Well don't you know I'm caught in a trap?

I don't wanna sound like a jerk, but the mushy pedal in that Bolt isn't just the little bit where it bumps the regen up at the first ~1/2 inch of travel, right?

OBAMNA PHONE posted:

for ICE vehicles it's pretty common to start doing flushes after 3 years. and while a EV will use the brakes less it doesn't stop the fluid from by hygroscopic.

3 years would be a crazy short life for brake fluid, I last replaced the brake fluid in my Ranger when I did it for my dad, when I was 17.

That brake fluid is almost old enough to drink, and the brakes work fine.

SlowBloke
Aug 14, 2017

Elviscat posted:

I don't wanna sound like a jerk, but the mushy pedal in that Bolt isn't just the little bit where it bumps the regen up at the first ~1/2 inch of travel, right?

3 years would be a crazy short life for brake fluid, I last replaced the brake fluid in my Ranger when I did it for my dad, when I was 17.

That brake fluid is almost old enough to drink, and the brakes work fine.

I think for my old swift was also every three years fluid check and replace if bad. Working and saving your rear end in an emergency are two very different things, I wouldn't go skimping on it especially if I was a dealer.

SlowBloke fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Jan 7, 2024

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002

Elviscat posted:

I don't wanna sound like a jerk, but the mushy pedal in that Bolt isn't just the little bit where it bumps the regen up at the first ~1/2 inch of travel, right?

3 years would be a crazy short life for brake fluid, I last replaced the brake fluid in my Ranger when I did it for my dad, when I was 17.

That brake fluid is almost old enough to drink, and the brakes work fine.

its such an easy thing to do and the fluid is also so cheap that i'd never even question the necessity for it

do you want me to show you the vw maintenance schedule?



im not sure that bragging about your old brake fluid is actually worth bragging about and they'd probably work better if it was flushed even if you think "it's fine"

Elviscat
Jan 1, 2008

Well don't you know I'm caught in a trap?

I should probably flush the brakes, but dealer service schedules are incredibly conservative.

E: manufacturer

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams

trilobite terror posted:

wood screws, duh

(do not use wood screws, checking online it looks like GM Part 95429704 comes with its own set of mounting hardware)

https://www.gmpartswarehouse.com/oe...A0aAqDdEALw_wcB

That's apparently the holder for 2021 and earlier, which uses rivets. 2022 and beyond (mine is a 2022) just uses screws, though it's not clear if they actually come with the bracket or not. None of the listings for it actually have a real picture, and don't mention one way or the other if it has fasteners or not, or what GM part number would be needed if they are needed.

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002

Elviscat posted:

I should probably flush the brakes, but dealer service schedules are incredibly conservative.

E: manufacturer

to be fair the bolt manual says 150k miles for brake fluid which is absolutely absurd imo

Squibbles
Aug 24, 2000

Mwaha ha HA ha!

Elviscat posted:

I don't wanna sound like a jerk, but the mushy pedal in that Bolt isn't just the little bit where it bumps the regen up at the first ~1/2 inch of travel, right?


Not for me. On the bolt I have to push the pedal well past what would be very hard (almost emergency) braking on the leaf for just normal stops.

Elviscat
Jan 1, 2008

Well don't you know I'm caught in a trap?

OBAMNA PHONE posted:

to be fair the bolt manual says 150k miles for brake fluid which is absolutely absurd imo

Lol, yeah, that's insane, I usually replace the fluid whenever I do brake pads, which usually works out well, but on a low-mileage car like the Ranger or something like an EV when you barely use the hydraulic brakes, there's a time requirement too, since as you pointed out, brake fluid is hygroscopic.



Squibbles posted:

Not for me. On the bolt I have to push the pedal well past what would be very hard (almost emergency) braking on the leaf for just normal stops.

I've never noticed anything weird about my Bolt's brakes even when I was switching between the Leaf and the Bolt, but I pretty much never use them since I'm in one-pedal all the time.

Nfcknblvbl
Jul 15, 2002

Indiana_Krom posted:

I don't get that, I have mine set to 'early' and its only ever gone off like once when someone was stopping abruptly to turn in front of me.

It’s probably a vision only model thing. My 2019 model didn’t warn me nearly as often.

Indiana_Krom
Jun 18, 2007
Net Slacker
I thought everyone is on pure vision now because they turned off the radar. Although my 2020 did come with it, so if they are still actually using it in equipped vehicles then it would make sense. That reminds me I haven't heard anything about the updated HD radar they were supposedly working on, I wonder if that went anywhere...

Psycho Society
Oct 21, 2010

Psycho Society posted:

Test drove a bolt 2020 but the steering was wack and the brakes were a bit mushy. Like the car so hopefully the former is just from lower pressure, and they said they're gonna put in some new tires and breaks. we'll see then ig

Ah, nevermind. This dealership includes the rebate on the list price of the car so it is out budget after all. Pretty sketchy imo but oh well

Psycho Society
Oct 21, 2010
follow-up question: what price range should I be looking for for say a 2020 model? the estimates on the normal websites aren't helpful since it seems like a dice roll whether they put these tax incentives into their list price

Loucks
May 21, 2007

It's incwedibwe easy to suck my own dick.

Nfcknblvbl posted:

It’s probably a vision only model thing. My 2019 model didn’t warn me nearly as often.

Almost certainly. I had a leased Tesla with USS and bought a model without them when the lease ran out. The old car was great; the new one loves to brake hard for invisible/unreasonable hazards on the freeway. Trying to run this stuff using only cameras was a bad idea.

WhiteHowler
Apr 3, 2001

I'M HUGE!

Psycho Society posted:

Test drove a bolt 2020 but the steering was wack and the brakes were a bit mushy. Like the car so hopefully the former is just from lower pressure, and they said they're gonna put in some new tires and breaks. we'll see then ig

The brakes on my wife's brand new 2023 Bolt EUV also feel super-mushy. The dealer said that's just how they feel. You have to push a lot harder on the pedal than in any other car I've ever driven, and I don't see an adjustment anywhere (aside from turning on one-pedal driving).

Chimp_On_Stilts
Aug 31, 2004
Holy Hell.

Vegetable posted:

It befuddles me that EVs don’t have a preconditioning button. If you don’t use the car’s onboard mapping system my understanding is they don’t precondition the battery. How does this make sense for the EVs where everyone’s just using CarPlay?

My new EV9 does have a preconditioning button independent of maps.

... which brings me to some questions: When should I precondition? Every time I am going to charge? Only when I am going to DC Fast Charge? Only when it's cold out?

What happens if I don't / forget to charge? Does the battery simply charge more slowly, or will I damage it?

Anything else I ought to know about preconditioning?

Endymion FRS MK1
Oct 29, 2011

I don't know what this thing is, and I don't care. I'm just tired of seeing your stupid newbie av from 2011.

Chimp_On_Stilts posted:

My new EV9 does have a preconditioning button independent of maps.

... which brings me to some questions: When should I precondition? Every time I am going to charge? Only when I am going to DC Fast Charge? Only when it's cold out?

What happens if I don't / forget to charge? Does the battery simply charge more slowly, or will I damage it?

Anything else I ought to know about preconditioning?

As far as I know, preconditioning only affects DCFC and the only consequence would be slower charging which is more pronounced in winter

Tom Guycot
Oct 15, 2008

Chief of Governors


Chimp_On_Stilts posted:

My new EV9 does have a preconditioning button independent of maps.

... which brings me to some questions: When should I precondition? Every time I am going to charge? Only when I am going to DC Fast Charge? Only when it's cold out?

What happens if I don't / forget to charge? Does the battery simply charge more slowly, or will I damage it?

Anything else I ought to know about preconditioning?


If you plug in cold with no preconditioning, you won't damage a thing, you'll just start off charging slow while it heats up/cools down the battery (when DCFC independent of any preconditioning it will always cool/heat the battery to optimal temperature), and then the speed will ramp up once it reaches optimal temperature, as opposed to arriving with it already at optimal temperature and charging at full speed right from the start. Realistically you would start preconditioning maybe, i dunno 10 minutes out from you DCFC stop, depends how fast the EV9 preconditions the battery I guess. If I recall from seeing videos, it will give you notification once its completed being brought up to temp.

Frank Dillinger
May 16, 2007
Jawohl mein herr!
Preconditioning before you disconnect the charger at home when it’s cold out will let you preserve battery capacity as well.

Vegetable
Oct 22, 2010

Frank Dillinger posted:

Preconditioning before you disconnect the charger at home when it’s cold out will let you preserve battery capacity as well.
This makes no sense to me. If I don’t warm the battery after my AC charging it’ll lose its capacity?

Indiana_Krom
Jun 18, 2007
Net Slacker

Endymion FRS MK1 posted:

As far as I know, preconditioning only affects DCFC and the only consequence would be slower charging which is more pronounced in winter
* Preconditioning is mostly for DCFC, but cold soaked batteries can actually be damaged by charging even at L1/L2 speeds; which is also why there is no regen from cold soaked batteries. But for L1/L2 charging it isn't something you should need to think about because your vehicle is smart enough to warm the pack to roughly room temperature before it starts charging in any way. That is why there is a different kind of preconditioning for when you are at home/work/etc plugged in to L1 or L2 charging, it is warming the pack but only about room temperature just to get regen working (and it is usually tied to cabin preconditioning).

Full DCFC preconditioning is a pretty different animal that aims for a much higher cell temperature (IIRC Tesla is aiming for 50° C, which is hot enough to burn you if you were to touch it) in order to lower the packs internal resistance as much as possible. On L1 or L2 your vehicle will likely only attempt to maintain the pack at somewhere around 20° C through the whole charge session.

Chimp_On_Stilts
Aug 31, 2004
Holy Hell.

Indiana_Krom posted:

... cold soaked batteries can actually be damaged by charging even at L1/L2 speeds...

What does cold soaked mean? Literally the battery is cold, temperature wise? Or something else?

How cold is cold soaked?

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Chimp_On_Stilts posted:

What does cold soaked mean? Literally the battery is cold, temperature wise? Or something else?

How cold is cold soaked?

It means cold all the way through. Overnight cold.

Batteries run on chemical reactions, and those reactions are slower at lower temperatures. This limits the battery output so conditioning gets them up to operating temperature ahead of time. Using AC power to condition them is better than using the batteries themselves to do it.

Saukkis
May 16, 2003

Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
I am Most Important Man. Most Important Man in the World.

Chimp_On_Stilts posted:

What happens if I don't / forget to charge? Does the battery simply charge more slowly, or will I damage it?

Out of Spec Reviews tested supercharging a thoroughly cold Model 3 at -9°F. It took over 35 minutes and about 4kWh of heating the battery at 6kW power before the battery started charging at all. At first it charged at 20kW rate.

I Deep Froze My Tesla And Immediately Plugged It Into A Supercharger To See What Happens


Deteriorata posted:

Using AC power to condition them is better than using the batteries themselves to do it.

Years ago I read magazine reviews for lead battery heaters. They were heaters you put under or wrap around the 12V battery on an ICE car and they will use the battery's charge to heat the battery before starting the engine. I was surprised that they were actually beneficial. In cold weather it's useful to use the battery's limited capacity to warm it self up, you get more power out of it.

Saukkis fucked around with this message at 03:10 on Jan 8, 2024

Cockmaster
Feb 24, 2002

Indiana_Krom posted:

I thought everyone is on pure vision now because they turned off the radar. Although my 2020 did come with it, so if they are still actually using it in equipped vehicles then it would make sense. That reminds me I haven't heard anything about the updated HD radar they were supposedly working on, I wonder if that went anywhere...

Last I checked, Tesla was putting their new Phoenix rardar in the Mode S and X, and evaluating its performance to determine if it's even worth having in those.

Also, it seems Tesla is removing the "creep" and "roll" driving modes, leaving the "hold" mode which maximizes regen braking - presumably to avoid having to factor the other modes (which use less regen braking) into range estimates.



Loucks posted:

Almost certainly. I had a leased Tesla with USS and bought a model without them when the lease ran out. The old car was great; the new one loves to brake hard for invisible/unreasonable hazards on the freeway. Trying to run this stuff using only cameras was a bad idea.

Did you get the update with their revamped park assist yet? Various Youtube videos made it look even better than ultrasonic sensors.

Squibbles
Aug 24, 2000

Mwaha ha HA ha!

Vegetable posted:

This makes no sense to me. If I don’t warm the battery after my AC charging it’ll lose its capacity?

I saw a post on the bolt forums talking about battery heating experiments some guy did and the gist was that the bolt doesn't engage the battery warming system while the car is off even if it's plugged in until it's extremely cold outside. However once you turn the car on and start driving it does devote a fairly significant amount of power to warming up the battery. I can't remember all the details but it did result in burning through more charge than expected for the first 20-30 minutes of a drive when it's cold over and above running the cabin heaters and such. I think the guy said there's a way to trigger the battery warming system while still plugged in but I'm not sure if it was starting the car while it's plugged in or something else.

Elviscat
Jan 1, 2008

Well don't you know I'm caught in a trap?

My dirt bike has a Li-ion 12V battery, and when it's cold out (below 50ish) you have to thumb the starter a couple times, while the engine farts and doesn't even turn over, then you wait about 30 seconds for that sudden current draw to warm the cells up, hit it again and it'll fire right up.

Basically the manual version of preconditioning.

Saukkis posted:

Out of Spec Reviews tested supercharging a thoroughly cold Model 3 at -9°F. It took over 35 minutes and about 4kWh of heating the battery at 6kW power before the battery started charging at all. At first it charged at 20kW rate.

I remember a couple years back there were Teslas killing their batteries while plugged in trying to keep them warm. I assume that's been OTAd out by now.

Frank Dillinger
May 16, 2007
Jawohl mein herr!

Vegetable posted:

This makes no sense to me. If I don’t warm the battery after my AC charging it’ll lose its capacity?

Turing the car on and warming up the battery and interior while it’s plugged in means you won’t lose a bunch of battery doing the same.
This won’t work at L1 charging though as the current draw is too high

Nfcknblvbl
Jul 15, 2002

Yeah, preconditioning while plugged in at home doesn't do much for the battery except save some energy warming the cabin up.

Frank Dillinger
May 16, 2007
Jawohl mein herr!
Even when it’s -20 out?

priznat
Jul 7, 2009

Let's get drunk and kiss each other all night.
Finally getting some cold weather here in the next couple weeks and really looking forward to using the remote climate conditioning thing. Kinda wish you could start the seat and wheel heaters remotely too!

ROFLBOT
Apr 1, 2005

Loucks posted:

Almost certainly. I had a leased Tesla with USS and bought a model without them when the lease ran out. The old car was great; the new one loves to brake hard for invisible/unreasonable hazards on the freeway. Trying to run this stuff using only cameras was a bad idea.

The Shanghai-built Teslas have USS and they still phantom brake, mine did it like 3 times on the way to work this morning (normally its not that bad). It shat me so i turned TACC off and just drove the drat car like a normal person

Normal Barbarian
Nov 24, 2006

Rodenthar Drothman posted:

At least here in California I think the dealer is required to give you a front license plate holder, even if the car did not come with one.

And it looks absolutely loving hilarious bolted dead center on an i4's grille(s)

"iconic" design element plus afterthought compliance bodge

Normal Barbarian fucked around with this message at 06:27 on Jan 8, 2024

dissss
Nov 10, 2007

I'm a terrible forums poster with terrible opinions.

Here's a cat fucking a squid.
They've dropped the parking sensors from the Chinese Model 3 facelift too.

Nfcknblvbl
Jul 15, 2002

USSes are used to avoid forward collision in traffic? I thought it was radar-based.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

USS typically have a max range of like 4 meters so they’re not used for collision unless it’s to make sure you’re at max braking for like the last tenth of a second.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

Elviscat posted:

I should probably flush the brakes, but dealer service schedules are incredibly conservative.

E: manufacturer

I've been meaning to get Jr's Bolt in while she's home this winter. What sorts of things should I ask them to look at, besides coolant, brake pads, and checking lubrication?

Russian Bear
Dec 26, 2007


If you got hit with lots of snow plz post video of you hooning your EV in an empty parking lot

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Failson
Sep 2, 2018
Fun Shoe

FISHMANPET posted:

That's apparently the holder for 2021 and earlier, which uses rivets. 2022 and beyond (mine is a 2022) just uses screws, though it's not clear if they actually come with the bracket or not. None of the listings for it actually have a real picture, and don't mention one way or the other if it has fasteners or not, or what GM part number would be needed if they are needed.

My used Bolt also didn't have a front plate frame, despite being in a front-plate-state all it's life.

I ended up buying a Cravenspeed Platypus, it mounts to the tow hook socket.

https://www.amazon.com/stores/page/1A89E45C-1898-4C5A-B25E-69CD6AD13B79?ingress=0&visitId=2d497a88-a8ca-43e1-b611-4a9f9b74f8e8

Bit of a rant, but I see tons of cars lately (and Tesla's especially) without front plates in Washington state. As far as I can tell, front plates are still required for all cars.

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