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Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011
anyway link to stuff if you think it should go in the new OP

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jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


Cease to Hope posted:

anyway link to stuff if you think it should go in the new OP
most beginner paint sets are bad but this one is good: https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/product/hobby/sets/basic-en/introduction-72299/

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

that is not a bad set but i was going to see if i could find ones that use the newer, higher-quality paints (from VGC and others)

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Cease to Hope posted:

that is not a bad set but i was going to see if i could find ones that use the newer, higher-quality paints (from VGC and others)

:confused:

Vallejo model/game colour are good quality. The main weakness of a few of their starter sets is the inexplicable decision to include an orange but not a red.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004
Probation
Can't post for 19 days!
Since Contrast/Speedpaints/Vallejo Xpress/slapchop/etc. are pretty popular, probably should include this vid from Warhipster in the new OP, in regards to proper application technique for those types of paints

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_5cLbGBpsQ

Anti-Tachyon
Oct 25, 2010

This was my first set and to be honest, it was not very good! I don't recommend it.

I don't have any alternatives just don't get this one imo.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Gravitas Shortfall posted:

:confused:

Vallejo model/game colour are good quality. The main weakness of a few of their starter sets is the inexplicable decision to include an orange but not a red.

VGC just did a whole new line revamp, and the linked set comes with the old paints and is on the way out anyway. old VGC was fine, i'm not knocking it, it's just that the new stuff is nicer.

Razor Jacksuit
Mar 31, 2007

VEES RULE #1



Yeah I have a similar request to all of this: I want to get back into painting, but with my kids. I have plenty of Reaper bones and other stuff from my pile o' shame for them to brutalize, but what are some inexpensive-but-still-appropriate-for-miniatures paints I can buy to get them started while keeping them away from daddy's expensive paint pots?

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Sydney Bottocks posted:

Since Contrast/Speedpaints/Vallejo Xpress/slapchop/etc. are pretty popular, probably should include this vid from Warhipster in the new OP, in regards to proper application technique for those types of paints

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_5cLbGBpsQ

This like the exact opposite of these type of translucent paint tutorials lol.

Slyphic
Oct 12, 2021

All we do is walk around believing birds!
I've been tinkering with this model and what I want the colors to look like (and now screaming at my phone camera because it's started over saturating everything for some god forsaken reason.

The deck boards I'm happy with. The silver is whatever. I've got a less red brass color arriving for the accent bits. It's the basic hull color I think I hosed up. I went too light. Trying to tone it down with washes or inks or anything else aren't working out like I want them to at all. I'm going to mask off the parts I like and airbrush the hull down to a darker blue and then bring it back up to this almost denim color for the edges.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004
Probation
Can't post for 19 days!

Lostconfused posted:

This like the exact opposite of these type of translucent paint tutorials lol.

Yeah, most of those are "how to get paint on your models quickly", whereas Warhipster is "how to use these paints to make your minis actually look good"

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Razor Jacksuit posted:

Yeah I have a similar request to all of this: I want to get back into painting, but with my kids. I have plenty of Reaper bones and other stuff from my pile o' shame for them to brutalize, but what are some inexpensive-but-still-appropriate-for-miniatures paints I can buy to get them started while keeping them away from daddy's expensive paint pots?

how inexpensive is inexpensive and how old are the kids

Funzo
Dec 6, 2002



I would recommend the Pro Acryl base set but it is both $100 and out of stock anyway. At least right from Monument hobbies it is.

Nessus
Dec 22, 2003

After a Speaker vote, you may be entitled to a valuable coupon or voucher!



Cease to Hope posted:

the OP is from 2015 and the poster hasn't posted in years. we could probably do with a new thread. i could just make one.
Seems fair. I have the advantage of having done this poo poo before, I just don't have any of the tools any more, although I do already have hobby snips I got for assembling Gunpla models. However, at the time I also had a FLGS where I was doing some semi-public work in their 'build and paint here, friends!' workbench area, which meant if I realized 'oh I need a file' I could either briefly use the store's kit or go pay $5-$10 for what I want.

Though I did look up actual FLGSeses in my area. Do Warhammer/Games Workshop outlets give you any poo poo if you work outside of the James Workshop Approved Equipment, or is it more 'don't expect them to hold a WMH tournament'

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Nessus posted:

Seems fair. I have the advantage of having done this poo poo before, I just don't have any of the tools any more, although I do already have hobby snips I got for assembling Gunpla models. However, at the time I also had a FLGS where I was doing some semi-public work in their 'build and paint here, friends!' workbench area, which meant if I realized 'oh I need a file' I could either briefly use the store's kit or go pay $5-$10 for what I want.

Though I did look up actual FLGSeses in my area. Do Warhammer/Games Workshop outlets give you any poo poo if you work outside of the James Workshop Approved Equipment, or is it more 'don't expect them to hold a WMH tournament'

your gunpla snips are fine. probably nicer than the ones most wargamers use. i am just working on a beginner/intermediate/advanced tool list right now.

GW stores really depend on the manager. non-GW models and non-GW paints are the diciest things in their spaces but i've never been to one where the manager was so neurotic that he cared about your knife or drill or whatever when coming in on hobby day.

Razor Jacksuit
Mar 31, 2007

VEES RULE #1



Cease to Hope posted:

how inexpensive is inexpensive and how old are the kids

"Less expensive than Citadel" would be the tsrating point I think. The kids are 7 and 10. Like I know people will suggest craft paints for terrain, but I undertsand that really cheap paints will just frustrate beginning painters.

Nessus
Dec 22, 2003

After a Speaker vote, you may be entitled to a valuable coupon or voucher!



Cease to Hope posted:

your gunpla snips are fine. probably nicer than the ones most wargamers use. i am just working on a beginner/intermediate/advanced tool list right now.

GW stores really depend on the manager. non-GW models and non-GW paints are the diciest things in their spaces but i've never been to one where the manager was so neurotic that he cared about your knife or drill or whatever when coming in on hobby day.
Yeah, I figure they're not going to have non-GW products, outside of possible niche utility items. Maybe I'll scope out both and check the vibe

NinjaDebugger
Apr 22, 2008


Razor Jacksuit posted:

"Less expensive than Citadel" would be the tsrating point I think. The kids are 7 and 10. Like I know people will suggest craft paints for terrain, but I undertsand that really cheap paints will just frustrate beginning painters.

Look up lots of Golden acrylics on ebay. You'll get a good assortment, in huge quantity that you can afford for the kids to waste, for way less than you'd pay for even a quarter the amount in hobby paints, and they're high quality.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Razor Jacksuit posted:

"Less expensive than Citadel" would be the tsrating point I think. The kids are 7 and 10. Like I know people will suggest craft paints for terrain, but I undertsand that really cheap paints will just frustrate beginning painters.

cool, everything is cheaper than citadel.

basically every competitor to citadel that you can buy in a store is cheaper per bottle and has a larger bottle. vallejo model color, vallejo game color, ak interactive 3rd, two thin coats, pro acryl, and scale75 are all great lines and you should be able to find them in wargame shops or scale modelling shops. reaper, P3, mission models, lifecolor, ammo by mig, and vallejo mecha are essentially fine. skip tamiya, mr. hobby, testors, and any other solvent-based acrylic; they're not bad paints, but they're fiddlier and more toxic. in general, these paints will run from about $2-4 for a 15-22ml container, or else a comparable price at a different size.

heavy body or soft body artist acrylics will run you about $10-15 for a 59ml tube. golden, windsor & newton, and liquitex are all great. this is proper fine art paint, but still cheaper than miniatures paints with the gamer/scale modeller tax. you do need to avoid toxic pigments: cadmium paints and lead white are toxic unless they are "cadmium hue" or "lead white hue", which are imitators made with mixes of non-toxic materials. also, avoid slow-drying acrylic paints like golden's Open line. these you can get in an art supply or general craft store (like michael's or hobbycraft).

golden basics are about the best "craft" paints i've found, and probably the lowest-quality paints i'd recommend for miniatures. they're fine-quality, just not as pigment-dense, so they'll need to apply paint in layers. good for them to learn that but it does require a longer attention span and faith that the final product will look nice, which can be hard for younger kids. these are so ubiquitous you might even find them in, like, wal-mart, but a general craft store is your best bet.

Cease to Hope fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Feb 21, 2024

Cardboard Fox
Feb 8, 2009

[Tentatively Excited]
This may sound odd, but does anyone use covers for specific portions of their miniatures they have already painted? I want to try a metallic drybrush along with a leather drybrush that is around the same area, and I was wondering if there was something I could use to cover the bracer I have already completed? Maybe some kind of light tape that wont peel the paint?

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Cardboard Fox posted:

This may sound odd, but does anyone use covers for specific portions of their miniatures they have already painted? I want to try a metallic drybrush along with a leather drybrush that is around the same area, and I was wondering if there was something I could use to cover the bracer I have already completed? Maybe some kind of light tape that wont peel the paint?

masking putty is probably your best bet. masking tape might work but i think you'd get buildup at the tape edge, as well as adhesion problems.

Two Beans
Nov 27, 2003

dabbin' on em
Pillbug
There's also masking medium you can brush on then peel off, but you might wanna varnish before applying it.

Beffer
Sep 25, 2007

Razor Jacksuit posted:

Yeah I have a similar request to all of this: I want to get back into painting, but with my kids. I have plenty of Reaper bones and other stuff from my pile o' shame for them to brutalize, but what are some inexpensive-but-still-appropriate-for-miniatures paints I can buy to get them started while keeping them away from daddy's expensive paint pots?

If I was starting to paint with my kids, I would go for contrast paints. You get a good result more quickly, and they won't go through that phase where it looks like rubbish before you start layering.

I haven't used them, but the Army Painter speed paints have a good rep, and are cheaper than Citadel, I assume.

BizarroAzrael
Apr 6, 2006

"That must weigh heavily on your soul. Let me purge it for you."
How much better is Pro Acryl than Vallejo? I keep seeing the former recommended but it's easier for me to find the later. Right now this is mostly for airbrush primer, although I might like to get Pri Acryls Titanium white as after 25 years citadel still seem to be unable to make a good white

NinjaDebugger
Apr 22, 2008


BizarroAzrael posted:

How much better is Pro Acryl than Vallejo? I keep seeing the former recommended but it's easier for me to find the later. Right now this is mostly for airbrush primer, although I might like to get Pri Acryls Titanium white as after 25 years citadel still seem to be unable to make a good white

Better, but not amazingly better, for color, but much more consistent in temperament, is my experience. And if it matters to you, they use standard color names, not hobby names that nobody agrees on.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

BizarroAzrael posted:

How much better is Pro Acryl than Vallejo? I keep seeing the former recommended but it's easier for me to find the later. Right now this is mostly for airbrush primer, although I might like to get Pri Acryls Titanium white as after 25 years citadel still seem to be unable to make a good white

vallejo game color with the bold, sans-serif "VALLEJO GAME COLOR" is the new line from 2022 and excellent. new VGC, pro acryl, two thin coats, and ak interactive 3rd gen are all top-of-the-line and comparable. (apparently so is AP warpaints fanatic but that's not properly out yet.)

primer usually isn't there to make a solid coat of color. imo use vallejo grey primer (which is a polyurethane paint, not a traditional acrylic) then apply whatever paint you actually want as the basecoat.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.

Two Beans posted:

There's also masking medium you can brush on then peel off, but you might wanna varnish before applying it.

The other downside to masking medium is that while there is nicer stuff, the easy-to-find cheap stuff is just liquid latex. It

A) reeks
B) ruins whatever brush you use to apply it, and
C) is incredibly irritating to actually peel off once you're done.

Putty or blue tac would be my go to, then tape, then most masking fluids.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Nessus posted:

Yeah, I figure they're not going to have non-GW products, outside of possible niche utility items. Maybe I'll scope out both and check the vibe

Gunpla snips are good. The only other stuff you need is a hobby knife to clean up snipped gates (you can just the back to scrape mould lines), Tamiya Extra Thin plastic glue, any super glue of your choice (for 3d printed bits, resin models or gluing minis to terrain if you are doing more elaborate basing) and optionally a hobby pin vise to drill gun barrels and holes for pins and magnets.

rantmo
Jul 30, 2003

A smile better suits a hero



BizarroAzrael posted:

How much better is Pro Acryl than Vallejo? I keep seeing the former recommended but it's easier for me to find the later. Right now this is mostly for airbrush primer, although I might like to get Pri Acryls Titanium white as after 25 years citadel still seem to be unable to make a good white

I can't speak to Vallejo's airbrush primer but I have some of the Pro Acryl Dark Camo (I think that's the name) primer and I was really happy with the performance.

Nessus
Dec 22, 2003

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Eej posted:

Gunpla snips are good. The only other stuff you need is a hobby knife to clean up snipped gates (you can just the back to scrape mould lines), Tamiya Extra Thin plastic glue, any super glue of your choice (for 3d printed bits, resin models or gluing minis to terrain if you are doing more elaborate basing) and optionally a hobby pin vise to drill gun barrels and holes for pins and magnets.
I got a bottle of Citadel plastic glue at the FLGS along with my new Sororitas collection. Now I'm shopping for a good starter paint kit - other than the core sororitas colors I was thinking of working in some copper-tarnish green or similar hue. I'm guessing I want black primer but if there's a range of like eight to ten paint pots that would probably do me I'd appreciate it!

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007



Old pewter Eldrad Ulthran I painted.

I've wanted this model since I was like twelve, so painting it was satisfying

Cardboard Fox
Feb 8, 2009

[Tentatively Excited]

grassy gnoll posted:

Putty or blue tac would be my go to, then tape, then most masking fluids.

Yep, thanks all. I have blue putty, don't know why I didn't think of just using it as a cover. The worst things about it is having to clean up the tiny pieces, but that only takes a few seconds.

Nessus
Dec 22, 2003

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So how the gently caress does the Citadel plastic glue even work. What is this xenos artifact

Shoehead
Sep 28, 2005

Wassup, Choom?
Ya need sumthin'?

Nessus posted:

So how the gently caress does the Citadel plastic glue even work. What is this xenos artifact

It melts the plastic slightly and that dries into a bond. I used to melt polystyrene planes with it, probably wasn't good for my brain

Nessus
Dec 22, 2003

After a Speaker vote, you may be entitled to a valuable coupon or voucher!



Shoehead posted:

It melts the plastic slightly and that dries into a bond. I used to melt polystyrene planes with it, probably wasn't good for my brain
Yeah I get that I mean how does one open the bottle and use it lol

It clearly has some kind of applicator tip thing going on

Shoehead
Sep 28, 2005

Wassup, Choom?
Ya need sumthin'?

Nessus posted:

Yeah I get that I mean how does one open the bottle and use it lol

It clearly has some kind of applicator tip thing going on

Without it melting the plastic of the bottle you mean? It only melts and bonds certain plastics.

Nessus
Dec 22, 2003

After a Speaker vote, you may be entitled to a valuable coupon or voucher!



Shoehead posted:

Without it melting the plastic of the bottle you mean? It only melts and bonds certain plastics.
I mean how do you open and close it to apply glue to the minis, lol. I was old enough to just get a five buck packet of superglue and use that, but I was working long enough ago that most of the minis were metal.

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something
And if anyone wants a lifetime supply of plastic cement, just grab a pint tin of SciGrip/Weld-On #3. Slightly different formulation than Tamiya Extra-Thin, but does the same job.

https://www.amazon.com/Acrylic-Plastic-Cement-Applicator-Bottle/dp/B0096T6OQK

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Nessus posted:

I mean how do you open and close it to apply glue to the minis, lol. I was old enough to just get a five buck packet of superglue and use that, but I was working long enough ago that most of the minis were metal.

The thin metal tube is the applicator and you just dab it it against two pieces that are pressed together and it will melt the plastic together.

Tamiya Extra Thin Cement has a brush applicator that can also be used to dab into gaps with capillary action and that's why it's more highly recommended.

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Nessus
Dec 22, 2003

After a Speaker vote, you may be entitled to a valuable coupon or voucher!



Eej posted:

The thin metal tube is the applicator and you just dab it it against two pieces that are pressed together and it will melt the plastic together.

Tamiya Extra Thin Cement has a brush applicator that can also be used to dab into gaps with capillary action and that's why it's more highly recommended.
Oh so it's more like the thing on the top is something you dunk into the glue to gather some up, then wipe it on the bits before pressing them together? Not like a dribble tube?

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