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yeah but you could own two of them
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# ? Mar 12, 2024 03:13 |
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# ? May 13, 2024 11:28 |
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yeah im just chitchattin. the only thing id be seriously interested in is a beat2fuck NA that needs the camber and fart can sorted out. no garage in my life yet tho
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# ? Mar 12, 2024 03:19 |
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Put in the RX-8 wiper stalk so I can have variable intermittent wipers. Super easy install.
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# ? Mar 12, 2024 06:21 |
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Did you buy OEM or eBay?
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# ? Mar 12, 2024 11:42 |
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Did you buy OEM or eBay? I bought OEM via Moss. https://mossmiata.com/903-840-variable-intermittent-wiper-stalk-by-mazda drat I thought it was cheaper when I ordered. I might have gotten ripped a little. Oh well, still a good upgrade. Here's the new ride btw: 2015 Club PHRT with the 6 speed manual I found it on FB and it was being sold by an older lady whose husband had suffered a stroke and could no longer drive it. During the time I was arranging financing and she was getting the last of the lien paid off the title her husband passed. Within days of me bringing that car home bad poo poo starts happening so I'm side eyeing the car in case its cursed. But it drives great and just turned over 20,000 miles with me. Coredump fucked around with this message at 17:53 on Apr 2, 2024 |
# ? Mar 12, 2024 14:41 |
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your new ghost friend is just making his home a little more comfy
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# ? Mar 12, 2024 22:07 |
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GOD IS BED posted:your new ghost friend is just making his home a little more comfy I'm not opposed to the ghost of an elderly Miata enthusiast chillin with me but I could have done without some of the shennigans.
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# ? Mar 12, 2024 22:33 |
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alright thread, need some help with starting issues on my nb. I have a very strong hunch the starter is out for a few reasons: -the battery is strong. there has never been any slow cranking or anything else which lead me to believe it's a battery issue. battery is only a couple years old, the connections are clean and tight and there is no sign of corrosion or chemical reaction. -the issue has been gradual, for a while i would just keep trying and eventually get lucky. never tried banging on it but it would either start or give me nothing, no clicks or anything in between. so its the solenoid or starter, doesn't really matter which -replaced fuses on a lark. because its easier. nothing So now the new starter is here, I know where the bolts are but it is so hard to get leverage to them. I have swivels, extensions, flexible head socket wrenchs etc and all that ends up happening is the socket loses grip because of the bad angle and the one bolt i have tried gets rounded. I don't know where to go from here, other than start removing things like the exhaust manifold to gain access. thetan_guy42 fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Mar 16, 2024 |
# ? Mar 16, 2024 03:36 |
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Managed to get the ole' '92 Sunburst onto the track for the first time. The engine ran great - the temp gauge didn't even hit the 12 o'clock mark. Now, the brakes? They gave out after ~5 laps. Like, wisps of smoke from the wheels levels of giving out. It was disappointing, because I purposely upgraded to fancy slotted rotors, Hawk HP+ pads, and ss brake lines, so that the brakes could handle 20 minute sessions. Once the brakes cooled, and I left to head home, the brakes were back to flawless performance. The only variable left is the fluid, which I don't think has been changed in ~8-12 months. The pedal was nice and firm on the drive back, so I probably boiled the fluid. But, goddamn, all this after only five laps? Between this, and watching other cars run into mechanical problems, it's no joke: track driving is brutal on a car!
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# ? Mar 22, 2024 18:27 |
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Dude... the fluid is the first thing you check / make sure is good after checking that the (stock) rotors and pads aren't dangerously worn or rusted out
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# ? Mar 22, 2024 18:45 |
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Wibla posted:Dude... the fluid is the first thing you check / make sure is good after checking that the (stock) rotors and pads aren't dangerously worn or rusted out Totes agree. It was a last-minute chance to hop on the track (I was doing a race school in their cars) for the last 10-15 minutes of the session. It slipped my mind to check the fluid. Lesson learned, for sure.
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# ? Mar 22, 2024 19:33 |
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You probably boiled the fluid. I ran HP+ when I was starting out, and with good fluid on stock nb brakes I didn't have any trouble until I got faster, then they'll fade after about 10 minutes with good fluid. Change the fluid, preferably for a high temp fluid, and you're good to go.
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# ? Mar 22, 2024 20:38 |
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Simply brake less. (sorry)
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# ? Mar 22, 2024 20:43 |
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I use Motul RBF600 in my 10AE and it has held up pretty well on track
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# ? Mar 22, 2024 20:51 |
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Olympic Mathlete posted:Simply brake less. Just came across a few videos by I Do Cars video on the Miata transmission and engine teardown, it's very detailed and clear and might be helpful if you (or I...) ever have to tear one down https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJAvWSJTHu0
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# ? Mar 26, 2024 18:52 |
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I shouldn't have joked about brakes, on the drive home last night I noticed the car started pulling to the right. Get the mile further home and I note that caliper is HOTTTTTTTT. Today it has been fine but obviously I need to take a look at that over the bank holiday weekend. Also where the gently caress would I find out what diameter the input end of my intake camshaft is without tearing the engine to bits first? I've got a leaking cam seal despite replacing it last year so I'm looking at trying an SKF Speedi Sleeve but of course I need to know which size for my 1998 1.8. *edit: taking a look at the camshaft seals on various sites I'm getting a 47/48mm internal diameter which is nice and vague. *edit 2: inner diameter seeeeeeeems to be 34mm, external 48mm. Olympic Mathlete fucked around with this message at 15:03 on Mar 27, 2024 |
# ? Mar 27, 2024 13:31 |
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TrueChaos posted:Change the fluid, preferably for a high temp fluid, and you're good to go. Wibla posted:I use Motul RBF600 in my 10AE and it has held up pretty well on track I've heard great things about that particular fluid. I'll be grabbing some of that before heading out on the track again.
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# ? Apr 2, 2024 00:16 |
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I rented an ND2 RF for the weekend, ripped it around some great roads in the Santa Cruz mountains but came away feeling like I don’t want an ND2 weirdly. It was still joyful and nothing will replace rowing your own gears. However it was louder than I remember my NA being, which I’m sure can’t be right and it’s just my older ears now. Some of the modern car stuff is annoying with Apple car play, but that’s just how it is now. I still want to try a club/gt with the “quiet” soft top to be sure. Anyways, getting older sucks and car enthusiasm feels weird now. Maybe I’ll just keep it to 2 wheels for the fun vehicles.
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# ? Apr 2, 2024 02:02 |
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Were you driving top down? All the reports I read said that the RF was quieter than the soft top with the roof up, but louder with the roof down.
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# ? Apr 2, 2024 04:37 |
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I did both. The rear structure definitely catches a bunch of wind right by your head in a loud way even under 50mph. The top up was also surprisingly loud at 70-80 but maybe it was just especially windy that day now that I think about it. Going to try to find a GT soft top to try.
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# ? Apr 2, 2024 05:16 |
Yeah, I’ve had both versions of the ND: one soft top and one RF. The RF is definitely quieter in my experience. I’m also short though at 5’4”, so maybe ride position makes a difference.
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# ? Apr 2, 2024 13:43 |
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I wish I wasn't broke at the moment otherwise I would say its time to Exocet my 2004 Miata.
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# ? Apr 2, 2024 17:50 |
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pastor of muppets posted:Yeah, I’ve had both versions of the ND: one soft top and one RF. The RF is definitely quieter in my experience. I’m also short though at 5’4”, so maybe ride position makes a difference. This is also a factor for sure, I’m 6’4 and the wind skims the top of my head with the RF roof down.
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# ? Apr 2, 2024 19:07 |
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Yeah I think the proximity of your head to the upper edges of the roof probably has a big effect on the wind noise volume. I am 6’ tall, and I put in the Paco lowering rails in the driver seat. it may have helped a little bit, but not substantially. With the roof down, if you’re driving above maybe 50 mph for any extended amount of time you really need to wear earplugs. I don’t know if that’s true in the soft top, but my ears will ring if I do it with the RF top down, and I think I have noticed some hearing damage which I regret.
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# ? Apr 2, 2024 22:01 |
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I've used noise cancelling headphones in my 10AE on the way home from track days a few times. It really helps on driver fatigue when driving 2+ hours.
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# ? Apr 3, 2024 06:45 |
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i'm 5'9" with uhh 30" legs for a reference. even though i'm pretty short my RF is still a chaos monkey noise-wise with the top down. And I Do Not Care. Except above like 90mph. There it starts to get kinda danger zone with wind noise. But i relatively rarely punch it, i'm fine with limit+7 cruising and it's fine there and I can even still take phone calls. The nd2 speakerphone is MAAAAAGIC. --- Speaking of which, it's time for a tire rotation and it's got locking nuts on there that i dont have the keys for. I bought a set of extractors to blast them off with an impact, but I'm not even sure i want to get security lugnuts back on to replace. Thinking about just ordering four stock lugs from the mazda dealer to replace them with. I don't think anybody's stealing these stock wheels.
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# ? Apr 3, 2024 06:57 |
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What kind of locks? Spline drive will slow down undetermined thieves, but if it's this kind a large beefy flatbladed screwdriver and a strong set of wrists will do the trick
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# ? Apr 3, 2024 11:59 |
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Do people steal rims these days. Even those clover style locks are easily defeated with a set of emergency lug but removers/ "master keys" they you can get online for $100 I've replaced all my security lugs because there is a bigger chance that I'll lose the key than my rims being stolen.
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# ? Apr 3, 2024 13:26 |
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Wibla posted:I've used noise cancelling headphones in my 10AE on the way home from track days a few times. It really helps on driver fatigue when driving 2+ hours. Active noise cancellation doesn't protect you from hearing damage, I encourage everyone to use ear pro. I use musician ear plugs so I can still enjoy the stereo.
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# ? Apr 3, 2024 15:26 |
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Musician's earplugs are great generally, clean up the audio because they drop everything ~25dB so you lose a lot of the poo poo and only get the amplified stuff you actually want to hear.
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# ? Apr 3, 2024 15:37 |
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:Active noise cancellation doesn't protect you from hearing damage, I encourage everyone to use ear pro. I use musician ear plugs so I can still enjoy the stereo. Or use in-ear monitors which will both isolate from the noise and get you the best sound quality you could ever hope to get in a car
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# ? Apr 3, 2024 15:47 |
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Unrelated but almost every music venue in America will provide you with audio nerd tier ear-pro quality plugs (hear conversation, not loud music) if you ask at the box office or backstage bar. It is amazing race venues haven't gotten on board, still. I was wearing cotton stuffed in my ears thanks to my dad at races in the 70's.
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# ? Apr 3, 2024 16:06 |
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mobby_6kl posted:Or use in-ear monitors which will both isolate from the noise and get you the best sound quality you could ever hope to get in a car I've been meaning to look into a set of these. You got any you would recommend?
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# ? Apr 3, 2024 18:54 |
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Coredump posted:I've been meaning to look into a set of these. You got any you would recommend? https://www.amazon.com/Etymotic-Research-Reference-Precision-Earphones/dp/B01GW785KQ/ref=sr_1_2 There are also cheaper models like this one https://www.amazon.com/Etymotic-ER3XR-Extended-Response-Earphones/dp/B076652HPH/ref=sr_1_3 The important part is probably the tri-flange design, it seem to very good at blocking out noise (just like earplugs would) so you can listen at a low volume. Though you can also get foam or custom-made tips for your ears. They are easily good enough for me so I haven't looked into more modern stuff, but there's a poo poo-ton of options if you ask in the audio thread. Wireless might make it easier so you don't get tangled in the seat belt or handbrake lever or something.
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# ? Apr 3, 2024 19:00 |
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Went out for a lovely cross-country thrash this afternoon, and was reminded that the UK is still very muddy and wet, especially on backroads. Will get the toothbrush out tomorrow, I promise.
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# ? Apr 3, 2024 19:02 |
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The weather finally stopped being lovely over this Easter but I was busy with other poo poo and didn't have time for a nice trip Today I got some of my aliexpress poo poo for my baby Seal tool that someone suggested: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004634440959.html Also found the window bushings: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006076339331.html and a dipstick: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005664406259.html Nothing that goes inside the engine (other than the dipstick I suppose) so I'm curious to see how this will work out. I ordered during the last sale so stuff was a few bucks off.
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# ? Apr 3, 2024 19:16 |
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mobby_6kl posted:The weather finally stopped being lovely over this Easter but I was busy with other poo poo and didn't have time for a nice trip What are you using those tools for?
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# ? Apr 3, 2024 19:21 |
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MetaJew posted:What are you using those tools for? The seal removal tool is for doing the timing belt job, hopefully later this spring. Someone, probably even ITT, suggested using it to avoid loving up the sealing surfaces. The bushings are to fix the slow power windows The dipstick is well a dipstick, to replace the one with the broken loop which is extremely common. I was going to 3D print a handle but it was $3 so why not. Oh, also got some parts for a fun DUY project, but I'll post once it's done and working.
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# ? Apr 3, 2024 19:32 |
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managed to get the old starter off the nb. tough but not as bad as it seemed, now have to get the new one on and hopefully thats it
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# ? Apr 5, 2024 04:04 |
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# ? May 13, 2024 11:28 |
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Anyone know anything about bride seat rails? I'm looking to put a Stradia III (reclining race seat) in my ND to get me as low as possible, after the Aurora/blackworks lowering rail on stock seat started rattling like crazy. New plan is to strip the heating element from the stock seta and chuck it in the stradia, resulting in an oem+ seating setup and hopefully getting it back low enough that I can wear a helmet on track (not possible with the stock rails). Problem is Bride comparability lists two rails/brackets that are compatible for the car/seat, the LR type and the RO type - with no details as to which is lower. I've emailed Bride to no avail, unfortunately. Isolationist fucked around with this message at 10:52 on Apr 6, 2024 |
# ? Apr 6, 2024 07:38 |