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TP Link recently released their single-gang smart fan/light control. If you have a combo switch in a single "space" this might be what you want. You must have one hot and one neutral coming in, and two separate wires going to the fan. One for the fan motor and one for the light. https://www.kasasmart.com/us/products/smart-switches/kasa-ceiling-fan-control-and-dimmer-switch-ks240 I've had it for a couple weeks. It seems fine, I'm happy to have smart control of all the lights in this room now. I do wish I could have something that wasn't made out of cheap plastic. Some people complain about the backlight of the switch being too bright. For me it seems to turn on and off randomly. It does come on when I touch it, so I don't think it's broken, just weirdly programmed.
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Mar 21, 2024 15:59
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:Yeah, I’ve got a few already. I guess my question is, are the requirements to being compatible with the PD-FSQN? There is, but it's really unlikely that you have it. I mean, people can install things wrong. There exist 3-spped chain pull DC fans that have remotes (that may not have been given to you) and/or wall switching that is not dimmer type but actually low voltage signaling to change fan speeds. But those are outliers, I don't beleive there are any standards for them, and if you just set it to high however and throw a PD-FSQN on it it may just work anyway.
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Mar 21, 2024 16:34
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If anyone uses HomeKit and ratgdo, there's a new firmware out, considered a 1.0.0 release build...just in time cause mine all of a sudden stopped working recently. Updated and removed and re-paired to HomeKit and everything working again (granted might've fixed it on the old firmware, but only tried rebooting). If your old firmware was like mine, you had to upload the firmware manually, which I couldn't find on the regular ratgdo page. They're slightly buried on the HomeKit fork of it here: https://github.com/ratgdo/homekit-ratgdo/tree/main/docs/firmware If you had issues solved by rebooting, there's now an option for periodic auto rebooting. A bit of a kludgy workaround but it's something.
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Mar 21, 2024 20:13
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Motronic posted:Okay, the lights work from a wall switch, what about the fans? Can you turn them on and off from another wall switch or do you have to control it with the chain? If you have to control it with the chain, does the fan run if the light switch on the wall is off? My fans are all only operated from the pull chain. The lights work from a light switch (but still have the chains, they just stay pulled “on”), except for one fan light that doesn’t have a light switch. I’m using Home Assistant with a Zigbee USB adapter.
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Mar 21, 2024 20:25
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e: 
Skinnymansbeerbelly fucked around with this message at 14:59 on Mar 22, 2024 |
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Mar 21, 2024 20:36
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IUG posted:My fans are all only operated from the pull chain. The lights work from a light switch (but still have the chains, they just stay pulled “on”), except for one fan light that doesn’t have a light switch. I’m using Home Assistant with a Zigbee USB adapter. Unfortunately that means you'll need to find zigbee fan controllers that get wired into the base of the fans, and this leaves you without a wall switch to control them, although I have seen solutions for that too. I'm in the HA/ZWave ecosystem so I'm not sure what's out there for zigbee.
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Mar 21, 2024 21:20
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Any pointers or pointing to way on how to flash a ThinkSmart View for HA?
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Mar 23, 2024 00:47
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Tapedump posted:Any pointers or pointing to way on how to flash a ThinkSmart View for HA? There's some instructions in the first post here: https://community.home-assistant.io/t/is-this-the-perfect-standalone-tablet-for-ha/658422
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Mar 23, 2024 11:48
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Fwiw the xda thread instructions are easier/just unlocking vs a full OS reflash. https://xdaforums.com/t/guide-root-unlocking-and-improving-your-lenovo-thinksmart-view-cd-18781y.4584033/
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Mar 23, 2024 14:28
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Thank you both. Nothing like a rainy weekend to make for a good project.
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Mar 23, 2024 21:34
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I have a corner of my garage that seems to be at the edge of my Caseta range... I have a plug-in dimmer acting as an extender right now, but not sure I can get it close enough to fix the issue. The Caseta readme says: quote:A Caséta Repeater or Plug-in Lamp dimmer will be needed to extend the range of the system to accommodate those devices. There are 2 products that you can add to your Caséta system to extend the range of the RF signal: Does this mean you can only have one of the two, or that you can have both but only one of each will act as an extender?
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Mar 24, 2024 19:22
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It reads to me like the latter.
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Mar 24, 2024 19:33
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I'm buying a house that hasn't been updated since the 1970s. Is there a good starting place to read up on potential upgrades and current systems, whats worth installing and what isnt, etc?? I'm not sure how current the various articles I'm finding are and this seems like a swiftly moving area. I'm android / Google generally not Apple to the extent that might matter.
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Mar 25, 2024 13:07
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Hieronymous Alloy posted:I'm buying a house that hasn't been updated since the 1970s. Is there a good starting place to read up on potential upgrades and current systems, whats worth installing and what isnt, etc?? I'm not sure how current the various articles I'm finding are and this seems like a swiftly moving area. The first thing to do is see how the house is wired. If it isn't wired up with a neutral wire (given the age, it probably isn't), and you want to use smart switches/outlets, you will have to use ones specifically made to not require a neutral wire.
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Mar 25, 2024 13:22
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HamburgerTownUSA posted:The first thing to do is see how the house is wired. If it isn't wired up with a neutral wire (given the age, it probably isn't), and you want to use smart switches/outlets, you will have to use ones specifically made to not require a neutral wire. Good to know, thanks. It'll probably be a bit before I'm back in thebplace with contractors tho. I am planning a bunch of renovations anyway -- is that the sort of thing that could be added or would be worth adding? Some of the other threads were recommending adding conduit as a first move.
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Mar 25, 2024 14:14
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Hieronymous Alloy posted:Good to know, thanks. It'll probably be a bit before I'm back in thebplace with contractors tho. I am planning a bunch of renovations anyway -- is that the sort of thing that could be added or would be worth adding? Some of the other threads were recommending adding conduit as a first move. For an electrician, adding a neutral wire is easy, with the only caveat being that they have to get in your walls to do it. So if they're already got your walls open to do electrical stuff, then there you go.
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Mar 25, 2024 14:40
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You don't need a contractor to check and see if there's a neutral. Just pop open the covers of a couple single light switches (with only one switch controlling the lights) and peer inside. If you only see one set of wires (one white, one black, and one bare) with the white wire running to one screw of the switch and the black wire running to the other screw the switch, you have what's called a switch loop where there is no neutral run to the actual box on the wall. If you see two or more sets of black, white, bare wires with the switch only being connected to black wires and the white wires being connected together with a wire nut, you have a neutral in the box. You said in the home buying thread that it was built in 1972 which means it is very very likely to have switch loops because copper was stupid expensive then and they were trying to use his little of it as possible. Unfortunately that also means that the house is rather likely to have aluminum wiring, so be sure to check on that.
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Mar 25, 2024 15:45
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Amazon has 20% off Hue products if you buy 2+. https://slickdeals.net/share/iphone_app/t/17375187 I bought a like new Signe Floor Lamp this week and it’s actually pretty awesome, despite being shipped in a box with no packing and ending up slightly bent. Thinking of getting another and maybe a Signe table lamp with this deal…. Henrik Zetterberg fucked around with this message at 09:21 on Mar 28, 2024 |
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Mar 28, 2024 05:14
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Anyone have any recommendations for a Zigbee color changing BR30 bulb? I started with the crappy GE bulbs over a decade ago that would just constantly drop off the network. Almost all now have been replaced by SYLVANIA SMART+ ZigBee Full Color bulbs, but their price went from $20 a bulb in 2020 to $32 a bulb today. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0196M5YAS/ is the one I mean.
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Mar 28, 2024 19:43
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Hughlander posted:Anyone have any recommendations for a Zigbee color changing BR30 bulb? I have some of the Sengeled A12 versions. I think they make br30 also. Happy with them so far.
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Mar 28, 2024 23:29
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That Works posted:I have some of the Sengeled A12 versions. I think they make br30 also. Happy with them so far. huh, my notes say that I do use those for a19. from what i remember they're 'ok' though sometimes I have to tell alexa to turn them on then turn them off as just telling them to turn off doesn't work.
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Mar 29, 2024 05:59
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New to thread and home automation/security. My head is spinning just scanning the product names / tech in the last 3 pages. I just bought a basic wireless arlo doorbell cam and security camera during the Amazon spring sale. I just want recordings of events and alarms sent to me when the zodiac killer enters my backyard / falls in my pool. Are these products going to suffice? I did see the arlo hub (85$ for a refurb) will extend battery life and offer better connectivity, so was debating picking it up.
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Mar 31, 2024 18:09
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Guy Axlerod posted:TP Link recently released their single-gang smart fan/light control. If you have a combo switch in a single "space" this might be what you want. You must have one hot and one neutral coming in, and two separate wires going to the fan. One for the fan motor and one for the light. https://www.kasasmart.com/us/products/smart-switches/kasa-ceiling-fan-control-and-dimmer-switch-ks240 Man it seemed ok until I started looking into it more. Some of the design choices are just puzzling. Why no tactile switches? Why does it illuminate when it’s on instead of being illuminated in the dark which would make actual sense? I really wanted something like this, we need them in three rooms even but those decisions are pants on head stupid so I guess I’m back to waiting. Anyone know of an alternative for single gang smart fan and light control?
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Apr 2, 2024 13:01
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I have just realized that I can probably mount cameras such that they cover my garage (indoors) and our two entrances (outdoors) from a single cable pull. Can anyone recommend a set of cameras (and suitable app/cloud ecosystem)? One outdoors, wall mounted, will be pretty exposed to the elements. One indoors, preferably wall mounted. PoE FOV is fine if it's 90 degrees. I'm a bit of a Ubiquiti fanboy I must admit.
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Apr 2, 2024 18:32
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I think a couple of us are running Reolink cameras with Blue Iris for NVR with or without AI object detection/identification. There's some website out there that will let you build a coverage map, but I can't remember the link.
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Apr 2, 2024 18:59
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bolind posted:I have just realized that I can probably mount cameras such that they cover my garage (indoors) and our two entrances (outdoors) from a single cable pull. The new Ubiquiti stuff is still very expensive, but the integration is SLICK.
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Apr 3, 2024 13:31
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I wasn't originally going to do Unifi cameras but my wife wanted it to be easy to use and access when I'm not around and Protect is pretty straight forward. I went with a bunch of g4 domes wired up w/ PoE and threw a hard drive in the Dream Machine SE.
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Apr 3, 2024 19:26
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I was committed to sticking the UniFi but man their selection is very expensive and now that I have a Scrypted server running it’s very, very, very easy to just get same/better quality cameras from anywhere else (Tapo/TP-Link), for much cheaper, and get them running in HomeKit and let HomeKit Secure Video handle my NVR needs. That said, tapo cameras are wifi only which can be a dealbreaker on some setups but I’m also not looking to running POE on this house (we’re probably moving in a year or two). The Dream Router is very good and cool so I’ll probably still have a variety of UniFi hardware but they’re currently on my “add a slickdeals alert and only buy on sale” list.
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Apr 3, 2024 20:01
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HamburgerTownUSA posted:The first thing to do is see how the house is wired. If it isn't wired up with a neutral wire (given the age, it probably isn't), and you want to use smart switches/outlets, you will have to use ones specifically made to not require a neutral wire. It's wired up with a neutral wire and copper wiring. (The previous owner seems to have been a bit of an electronics and HAM radio geek). So, where should I start reading up on what's possible these days?
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Apr 3, 2024 23:03
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As someone cursed with an older home with no neutral, one of the last home automation problems I have dealt with is controlling our three ceiling fans that have one light switch connected to them. My solution so far has been Hue lightbulbs, connected to a Lutron Hue dimmer that fits over the fan power switch to make it look and act like a dimmer/on off switch, which was fine, actually looks and works great, but the fan was the problem. I've been using this: https://www.amazon.com/SONOFF-iFAN04-L-Controller-Compatible-Assistant/dp/B09C21LX9R/ And just taped off the light button, and while it technically worked, the Google Home integration sucked and the WiFi was even shittier. Also one kind of broke and I just ignored it and installing it was an absolute nightmare, physically and software wise. We need new fans so I decided to look at solutions that were not complete poo poo but EVERYTHING with WiFI control needs a neutral. Then I found this, Bond Bridge: https://bondhome.io/product/bond-bridge/ It's everything that I have ever wanted! Perfect Google Home integration, apparently rock solid Home Assistant support and it just emulates any RF fan remote, now we can replace the fans with any no neutral required dumb fan with a remote and it integrates perfectly into our home control.
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Apr 5, 2024 02:43
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Bond Bridge works great. I use IKEA Zigbee shades in my house and they come with square remotes that I don’t use to control the shades. Instead, the remotes and Bond Bridge all talk to Home Assistant and I now use one remote per fan to manipulate the fan speed and lights. The IKEA remotes are much smaller and more modern looking than the fan’s remotes, and in the event a remote is broken or lost, they’re easier and cheaper to replace too.
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Apr 5, 2024 11:48
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Got a coupon for 5% off any product at the nearby tech store and found their last two 2x hue white and color boxes in clearance so got them both at 50% discount. Bolted them on after restoring the previous innr bulbs to factory and they work. The bulb were at may 2020 firmware so the app is spinning trying to upgrade them to current. Is it normal to do increment updates instead of jumping to the current one?
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Apr 6, 2024 16:18
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SlowBloke posted:Got a coupon for 5% off any product at the nearby tech store and found their last two 2x hue white and color boxes in clearance so got them both at 50% discount. Bolted them on after restoring the previous innr bulbs to factory and they work. The bulb were at may 2020 firmware so the app is spinning trying to upgrade them to current. Is it normal to do increment updates instead of jumping to the current one? Some firmware updates have dependencies on previous versions, so the incremental update is the only path forward. Just let it churn through them.
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Apr 7, 2024 14:11
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sharkytm posted:Some firmware updates have dependencies on previous versions, so the incremental update is the only path forward. Just let it churn through them. Three managed to get to current, one is stuck at 1.73.3. I'll let it be for a while. EDIT: The lamp never updated while the bridge kept looping the update is downloading status. I've added the specific bulb over bluetooth and forced the update over there, where it succeeded. Re-added the bulb over zigbee, power cycled the hub since it believed that the bulb were still on the older firmware, now everything is green firmware-wise. First time I experience a similar mess, i will have to remember to buy bluetooth equipped bulbs in the future to cover this kind of problems. EDIT2: Adding four gu10 350 lumen to a room already fitted with three plays might be a tad excessive, it looks like being at time warp. SlowBloke fucked around with this message at 19:42 on Apr 11, 2024 |
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Apr 7, 2024 17:54
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I want to setup ZoneMinder with a single 5MP Amcrest camera, in a simple low-traffic environment (in my garage). Half the reason is to keep an eye on a leaky pipe (not mine / can't fix), and the other half is noticing people who shouldn't be there. It is possible I may expand the system with a second camera, but that is not the immediate plan. So, with that context in mind, which underpowered ARM SBC should I use? I have a couple already, and I'm not super excited to go spend money on a NUC or whatever. Here are two I have that might be suitable: Pine64 RockPro64. 6-core RK3399, 4 GB RAM, 1 TB Samsung 980 Pro NVME on a single lane of PCIe Gen 1. Currently running: Armbian 24.2.1 Bookworm CLI. Raspberry Pi 4 B, 4-core BCM2711, 8 GB RAM, 500 GB Samsung 850 Evo SATA on a Startech USB 3 adapter. Currently running: NetBSD Whichever one I'll use will be wiped and a new OS installed (probably not NetBSD, despite its fervent supporter). They both have USB 3 ports if they need more storage (prob not needed tho). I'd like to do a lab setup with this junk I have on hand, if only to better inform my expectations before buying new hardware. But I think these boards should work ok with just one camera? No wifi, it'll all be on wired ethernet when deployed. e: kinda leaning towards using the Raspberry Pi, since the RockPro64 is doing some other marginally interesting things at the moment. ryanrs fucked around with this message at 21:04 on Apr 12, 2024 |
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Apr 12, 2024 20:58
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They've already been sufficiently dunked on lately, but I found out that myQ charges a yearly subscription to use the myQ door opening feature in my new car. Absolutely wild to sell a product then be like "yeah, pay us a yearly fee to use the product we already sold you once." What a garbage company. Meross rocks.
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Apr 15, 2024 16:22
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:They've already been sufficiently dunked on lately, but I found out that myQ charges a yearly subscription to use the myQ door opening feature in my new car. Absolutely wild to sell a product then be like "yeah, pay us a yearly fee to use the product we already sold you once." What a garbage company. I actually got around installing the Meross garage opener yesterday and it’s great. No issues on setup and HomeKit integration worked without issue.
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Apr 15, 2024 17:29
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I have 2 openers and I think I've had to power cycle one Meross unit maybe twice in 6 months, but that's totally it. Works wonderfully. Basically the only downside is you have to run your own door open/close sensors.
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Apr 15, 2024 18:03
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Anyone know of a good guide to RTSP, webrtc and the like? I am apparently a complete moron and can't figure out how to set my Google Nest, TP-Link and reolink cameras up through RTSP in HASS.
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Apr 19, 2024 02:05
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Happy Noodle Boy posted:I actually got around installing the Meross garage opener yesterday and it’s great. No issues on setup and HomeKit integration worked without issue. I bought an additional door opener remote and soldered a Shelly across the button contacts on the remote's board, and put a hall effect sensor on the door to detect open/close state. Works far better than MyQ ever did.
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Apr 19, 2024 03:25
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