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30mm suits to me seem to be the logical evolution of the 90's cartoon Centurions. Which is to say I loving love them.
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Apr 9, 2024 00:56
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Here’s a GOOhN for you goons:  First time hand painting something bigger than an artifact Gundam. Airbrushed the base sand yellow/dark brown, rest is by hand and therefore pretty sloppy lol. Still beats what it looked like straight-built:  
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Apr 9, 2024 09:53
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Not bad! Ancient hand painting secret, a quick recess shade is great for hiding uneven painted edges
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Apr 9, 2024 13:07
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Deviant posted:i took a break while i was building Miku and now i feel like i belong on an FBI watchlist. How is it so far? I got my girlfriend that Miku awhile back and it’s in her backlog. It doesn’t look like it has a ton of parts so it seems pretty simple.
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Apr 9, 2024 16:29
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X-Ray Pecs posted:How is it so far? I got my girlfriend that Miku awhile back and it’s in her backlog. It doesn’t look like it has a ton of parts so it seems pretty simple. Simple, but it has dry decals which are a pain. I panel lined her shirt, but i had to deepen the lines.
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Apr 9, 2024 19:39
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Antoine Silvere posted:Here’s a GOOhN for you goons: looking good, there's always the line of effort to painting ratio. don't get too hung up on perfect lines, washes will fix a lot of the edges. plus you can always go back a fix any minor issues later. it's the beauty of painting. you can always add more
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Apr 9, 2024 20:53
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I R SMART LIKE ROCK posted:looking good, there's always the line of effort to painting ratio. don't get too hung up on perfect lines, washes will fix a lot of the edges. plus you can always go back a fix any minor issues later. it's the beauty of painting. you can always add more Thanks! I’m always worried about doing washes cuz I don’t really know what I’m doing; do I just slap it on all over or just in the recesses? I’ve panel lined before, is it any different from that? Lol
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Apr 9, 2024 20:59
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Antoine Silvere posted:Thanks! I’m always worried about doing washes cuz I don’t really know what I’m doing; do I just slap it on all over or just in the recesses? I’ve panel lined before, is it any different from that? Lol On models with lots of big flat panels like that, an all over wash will create puddles and splotches. A recess shade where you just apply it to the various crevices is all you need. It is very similar to panel lining, but it creates more of an effect of depth.
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Apr 9, 2024 21:25
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Antoine Silvere posted:Thanks! I’m always worried about doing washes cuz I don’t really know what I’m doing; do I just slap it on all over or just in the recesses? I’ve panel lined before, is it any different from that? Lol you can go over highly detailed areas quickly but I try not to slather it too much anyway. I'll then use a clean brush to pull back any pooling I notice. it's always easier to do lighter coats and multiples then a thicker one that dries unevenly. you end up having to fix it anyway so might as well save yourself time upfront painting is a skill you have to learn by doing and seeing. other people's highly advanced work is great for inspiration but can be demoralizing if you compare your own works to that stringent of a standard
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Apr 9, 2024 21:39
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Thanks for the tips model pals, I might give it a shot on the GOOhN since it was mostly just a fun lil side project. One last question: how much should I worry about color of the wash? Is a “dark” wash (I.e. black/dark grey) good for most recess washes, or should I try to color-match the kit at all?
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Apr 9, 2024 22:22
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Antoine Silvere posted:Thanks for the tips model pals, I might give it a shot on the GOOhN since it was mostly just a fun lil side project. One last question: how much should I worry about color of the wash? Is a “dark” wash (I.e. black/dark grey) good for most recess washes, or should I try to color-match the kit at all? For recess washes you’re probably going to want black or brown in like 90% of situations. Since that GOOhN is all earth tones I’d go with brown.
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Apr 10, 2024 00:07
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Antoine Silvere posted:Thanks for the tips model pals, I might give it a shot on the GOOhN since it was mostly just a fun lil side project. One last question: how much should I worry about color of the wash? Is a “dark” wash (I.e. black/dark grey) good for most recess washes, or should I try to color-match the kit at all? generally speaking you use black for cool tones and brown for warm. you can get away with black on warm tones but it's a starker contrast
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Apr 10, 2024 01:49
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Sweet, thanks y’all, I don’t have brown but I have a dark red rust wash I might try later
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Apr 10, 2024 02:13
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i use gray because black looks too cel shaded
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Apr 10, 2024 04:21
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Deviant posted:i use gray because black looks too cel shaded Yeah, I'm also a fan of gray on most cool tones. I don't like the high contrast you can get with a straight black. I usually save the black for particularly dark tones.
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Apr 10, 2024 04:44
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Deviant posted:i use gray because black looks too cel shaded I'm a weirdo who likes the cel-shaded pop that a black wash gives. I've tried gray a few times, and it always ends up feeling too subtle for my taste.
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Apr 10, 2024 05:15
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Doing some painting on the Banshee crown, will probably go over any missed spots once I'm building and have them out of the runner
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Apr 10, 2024 16:42
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Waffleman_ posted:Doing some painting on the Banshee crown, will probably go over any missed spots once I'm building and have them out of the runner in retrospect it would have been much smarter of me to prime on the sprue for my Banshee Norn I do have it primed light grey now and it's making me wonder if I want to change the colorway
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Apr 10, 2024 16:56
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I'm just using a Testors pen, I'll probably do another once over for the missed spots when I've cut them out
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Apr 10, 2024 17:01
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I did it, I ordered the l-gaim mkII and bat-shu. That's a lot of money I'm going to regret spending, but once I saw the MKII came with the ability to make the base l-gaim I was sold.
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Apr 10, 2024 17:14
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Deviant posted:Simple, but it has dry decals which are a pain. I panel lined her shirt, but i had to deepen the lines. I haven’t had any issues with dry decals on the few kits I’ve used them (MG Hyaku-Shiki, MG F91, and Suletta), so if all else fails I can help my girlfriend with those. Thanks!
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Apr 10, 2024 17:26
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Hey gunpla goons. Last April my weeb dream came true and I went to Japan. Between things, we swung by Odaiba and saw the giant Unicorn and the Gundam Base. I got bit by a rabid EG RX-78-2, and have been hoarding kits ever since. Here’s a gallery with most of what I’ve built this year:  Mostly 0078 HGs, cleaned up and panel lined with the thin tip pens. I just finished a Gundam MK2, and did some quick detailing with black and silver, and a flat topcoat. It was also my first time gluing parts (the backpack) and I’m happy that it didn’t turn into a blob of polystyrene fingerprints like all the P-51s I attempted as a kid. Please roast away (seriously, looking for feedback):    Basically, I’m fully hooked at this point. I’m building a HG Gyan Revive now, then I’ll probably start a Calibarn and then my first MG, Quatto’s Rick Dias. I’m kind of at a spot right now. I don’t know if I should get a set of pens and try shading, or just buy the bullet and buy an airbrush so I can ‘fix’ the weird mustard plastic of the Gyan’s accessories and spray top coat, and start panel lining and doing water slide decals over gloss. Yeah, I’m going to buy the markers and an airbrush.
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Apr 10, 2024 18:41
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Boys who love boys
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monsterzero posted:Hey gunpla goons. Last April my weeb dream came true and I went to Japan. Between things, we swung by Odaiba and saw the giant Unicorn and the Gundam Base. I got bit by a rabid EG RX-78-2, and have been hoarding kits ever since. that's the spirit. I had a choice between dark blue and blue black for the Banshee repaint. por no los dos indeed as an aside doing panel lining over gloss was insanely quick. my Strike Aile was my first attempt and I like the results
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Apr 10, 2024 19:02
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monsterzero posted:Hey gunpla goons. Last April my weeb dream came true and I went to Japan. Between things, we swung by Odaiba and saw the giant Unicorn and the Gundam Base. I got bit by a rabid EG RX-78-2, and have been hoarding kits ever since. Learn to hand paint while you're at it. I wish I'd put more time into it in the past instead of waiting until I was branching into more miniature work and having to learn from scratch. Airbrushing is great for the swaths of panels, but for things like eyes or those little white nubbins on the feet I might just opt to chip them in with a detail brush and let the panel wash sort it out. I'm not just saying this because I'm doing more things that are better served by hand brushing and as such it's my latest fixation, no...
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Apr 10, 2024 20:18
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Built the Artifact Full Armor Gundam that's been in my backlog for a while now Maybe I'll get around to painting it, too...
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Apr 10, 2024 21:50
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By the way if anyone cares: P-Bandai has a kit of Ryujinmaru from Mashin Hero Wataru up. It looks alright. Between that, the nice dunbine kits and the recent l-gaim releases it's like all the cool kids from the recent SRW games are starting to reunite.
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Apr 11, 2024 02:02
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he's a nifty little guy but that's a lot of money
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Apr 11, 2024 02:16
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monsterzero posted:Hey gunpla goons. Last April my weeb dream came true and I went to Japan. Between things, we swung by Odaiba and saw the giant Unicorn and the Gundam Base. I got bit by a rabid EG RX-78-2, and have been hoarding kits ever since. With thruster nozzles I tend to do the inside in gold and the outside in silver for contrast. It's also really easy to colour-separate if you do the gold first, then just paint it silver around the outside and the edge of the nozzle cone to cover any overlap.
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Apr 11, 2024 03:01
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Buck Wildman posted:he's a nifty little guy but that's a lot of money It's kind of crazy every p-bandai kit doesn't come with an action base for the prices they charge.
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Apr 11, 2024 04:14
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Nuebot posted:It's kind of crazy every p-bandai kit doesn't come with an action base for the prices they charge. I mean, plenty of P-Bandai kits are similar prices to mass retail. The big expense is shipping. Something like the Shinden would have a 50 percent price increase to include a basic stand.
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Apr 11, 2024 05:11
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If anyone's in Melbourne, there's a new-ish store on L3 of The Emporium called Moko Select selling Japanese import figures and model kits. There's a small selection of Gundam kits at the back, most WfM HG's and a random selection of Master Grades, but the prices aren't too bad.
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Apr 11, 2024 07:02
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Finished snap building my Gyan last night.   Grey panel lining looks pretty good on the legs so I’ll carry that through. I’m not 100% sure what I want to do on the dark blue. I’ll try my gray and black pens on it later. Hopefully that looks okay because don’t think I have the discipline or skill to dry brush highlights so, and it would probably look bad if I didn’t carry that through the whole kit. Warmachine posted:Learn to hand paint… Yup. Thinking about doing the little ab insert in light gray-silver instead of using the sticker and painting the backpack in gunmetal. I’ve got Tamiya paints so I’ll thin them slightly with IPA and aim for 2-3 coats. I’m second guessing the flat topcoat, I think this robot knight really needs a little sheen. I don’t think I’ve made any boo-boos that need hiding, so I’ll probably just leave it until if/when I have satin or semi-gloss on hand. And order another kit for when my airbrush game is up to shooting pearls. Neddy Seagoon posted:With thruster nozzles I tend to do the inside in gold and the outside in silver for contrast. It's also really easy to colour-separate if you do the gold first, then just paint it silver around the outside and the edge of the nozzle cone to cover any overlap. Hell yeah. I’m not totally happy with gunmetal out/silver in. I think I want to get something that approximates titanium (muted gold) and try that on the Rick Dias. Not sure if I want inside the bell to be brighter or darker than the outside, better go scroll peoples builds for the rest of the afternoon.
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Apr 11, 2024 20:55
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monsterzero posted:don’t think I have the discipline or skill to dry brush highlights so What un-knightly attitude is this for someone with a Gyan? You CAN do it. Don't be like me and wait until you're two shelves of suits and $1500 in. You might need a bottle of 90+% alcohol to rub it off if you go too hard the first time (though honestly just a dry cloth'll probably do if you use acrylics; dampening it with the alcohol will make it faster or help with many non-acrylics), but you'll get it right in no time. And if you flub it a few times? So what. You can fix it, and you're getting better each time. Pretty much everyone overdoes their first attempt at drybrushing, and those who dont probably have several hundred hours of artist opus tutorials on their youtube viewing history. (On cleaning - alcohol may not react well with a top coat if you already applied one... but you can take the top coat off using the alcohol and reapply if it comes down to it) For the darker pieces, lighter shades for lining will work better than darker ones which end up invsible; look at the dust build that gets between the panels on chinooks and blackhawks and the like in real life - they overcome the self-cast shadows and make the panels distinct. A mid-light grey, carefully applied on the tip of a toothpick, will work a bit like a panel lining pen if you don't feel steady enough with a fine brush. And you can use the other end of the toothpick to scrub away the paint if you apply it too thickly. I have no answers for how to get the mix of bright dust on the dark parts with the grey panel lning on darker parts to feel right together... YET. But once you've tried it once, if it doesn't feel right you can always clean it up and try something new. Maybe some very light brown edge highlighting / drybrushing / chipping sponge on the raised edges of the bright bits will help blend it in? Maybe using thin bright white lines on the dark parts will give it a very TV Series feel? For thruster bells, on my next project I think I'm going to try for a scorched metal look - shiny silver bell, then stipple on some brass in the middle, purple on the end, and blue on the very tip like this (first hit I could find for the technique under 5 minutes view time). Maybe a heavy dabbing of a sooty black on the inside of the bell too. It'll loook like rear end the first time, expecially on such curved and small parts. I'll find out I can only fit one transition colour on something this small, rather than working through three. I'll probably oversaturate the colours thinking I've done it too lightly. But nobody's seeing my collection except me, so I'll try it anyway. I've already enjoyed building the kit; I've nothing to lose if I wreck it. I own the plastic, it doesn't own me. It's easy to say, but neither fearing failure nor exhausting yourself by going all out on every kit is healthy. If you've identified something you want to try, try it. Nobody gets hurt if you mess up, and if you feel like getting lazy, it's just a hobby and you can always go over it later. It's a waste to just let yourself think the kits will sit on a shelf or in a display case for 60 years after you've built them if you think you could do something more with them. Snap building might be the most fun part for you (it is for me) but you already own the thing so use it even after you've 'finished' with it. Even if you literally break a model in half in the most bizarre failure possible... you've got bits for a new diorama project (the "battle damage" and "bitz box" stuff is twee when you hear it too much, but it's not exactly wrong) And let's face it, you were proably going to have to toss a few kits next time you move anyway. This even goes for the expensive ones, and even if you can only afford one HG a year. I'm actually yelling at myself - sorry to monsterzero for using them as an excuse to do it.
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Apr 11, 2024 22:10
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Lmao, eighty percent the reason I post on the something awful dot com forums is as a check that my ideas aren’t bad and my poo poo weak. Top tier haters here, and I trust that if I’m not read for filth I’m on the right track. But yeah, ‘just do it’ is good advice. Thank you. I’ve got my first set of reading glasses and a new lamp waiting on the porch for me. I’m going to mix up a little mid-gray and try panel lining the dark blue tonight because like you said, I can always wipe it back off.
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Apr 11, 2024 22:35
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monsterzero posted:Lmao, eighty percent the reason I post on the something awful dot com forums is as a check that my ideas aren’t bad and my poo poo weak. Top tier haters here, and I trust that if I’m not read for filth I’m on the right track. A wise goon once told me "do it, gently caress up, learn and gently caress up in new ways next time."
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Apr 11, 2024 22:47
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monsterzero posted:Lmao, eighty percent the reason I post on the something awful dot com forums is as a check that my ideas aren’t bad and my poo poo weak. Top tier haters here, and I trust that if I’m not read for filth I’m on the right track. lol yeah if people aren't actively hating on your poo poo here that means you did a dece job as for more nuanced shadings for colors. with darker it depends on the color of the undertone. navy could have a neutral grey of most shades work well but a black would work too. when you're taking pictures there'll be bright lights on the figure anyway to help differentiate. in-person your eyes pick up more of the nuances of coloration a lot of painting also has to do with consideration of how the model will be viewed later on. bright led's in a glass case? pictures via a photo booth? desk with overhead fluorescents? all those differences in lighting will affect how it's viewed as a whole also the honest truth is that you're likely the one to see it most. so as long as you're cool with it who loving cares
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Apr 11, 2024 23:42
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Also remember the 2 feet rule: most people are not going to pick up your meticulously painted model for close examination. They're more likely to admire from a polite distance, which is about 2 feet away. If you can't see poo poo from there and you need to do laundry, feel free to move on with life.
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Apr 11, 2024 23:48
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I R SMART LIKE ROCK posted:… This is one of the most interesting parts of painting to me. It’s not about accuracy, it’s about verisimilitude and often the hacky approximations look way better than detail in miniature. So much to play around with. Marx Headroom posted:Also remember the 2 feet rule: … Good point. Plan B is shouting, “Those aren’t stress marks, it’s wabi-sabi you ignorant barbarian!”
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Apr 12, 2024 00:01
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monsterzero posted:This is one of the most interesting parts of painting to me. It’s not about accuracy, it’s about verisimilitude and often the hacky approximations look way better than detail in miniature. So much to play around with. the best advice, for painting, I ever got is paint what you see. not what you think is supposed to go there
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Apr 12, 2024 00:30
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Marx Headroom posted:Also remember the 2 feet rule: most people are not going to pick up your meticulously painted model for close examination. They're more likely to admire from a polite distance, which is about 2 feet away. If you can't see poo poo from there and you need to do laundry, feel free to move on with life. In the same vein, don't take your first hi-res photo of a kit when you think it's finished and ready to be posted. Take one, or a series, when you start thinking you might be done. You will see so many little things you missed when it's on a web page in all its glory.
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Apr 12, 2024 00:40
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