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 Started with WD40 and a credit card (see where it's smudged), decided to buy gas and see if the power washer works. So far so good but I need more WD40
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Apr 8, 2015 22:43
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Dip should just peel off. I guess that got baked by the sun for a long time. Also I just paid $1000 off the principle of my Miata loan and will do the same again next month. If I can pay it off by end of summer my insurance will drop and it won't be such a big deal anymore.
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Apr 8, 2015 22:48
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Elysium posted:So I had my top replaced at a shop before the winter. They said to leave it up for several weeks before trying to put it down because it needed to stretch. Went through the winter with it up all the time of course, and now that it's getting warmer I've tried to put it down a few times, and it is still too tight to put back up by myself. I'm talking it's ball-bustingly-2-people-pulling-on-it-to-get-it-to-barely-latch tight. Is there any adjustment I can make? I've tried undoing the catches on windshield header but they don't seem to have much if any adjustment. Undo the top latch by the windshield. There's a little plastic cover that will fold up and you'll see a hex cylinder. Turn it. http://www.miata.net/garage/latch_adjust.html
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Apr 8, 2015 23:01
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urakawa posted:
drat you lucked out, just a dead battery and lovely dipp job. I could have sworn that was paint, no wonder nobody else wanted it 
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Apr 9, 2015 05:45
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leica posted:drat you lucked out, just a dead battery and lovely dipp job. I could have sworn that was paint, no wonder nobody else wanted it So wait, did the PO do the Plasti Dip because there was something wrong with the original paint, or he just wanted a cheap way to make it black?
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Apr 9, 2015 07:27
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I'm thinking he did it to make it black on the cheap, but we'll see when it's all off. I went to Carmax earlier today and test drove a 2005 MR2 Spyder and an 2011 NC Miata. I'm digging the engine on the NC and it got me thinking about getting an ND when they come out
urakawa fucked around with this message at 09:24 on Apr 9, 2015 |
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Apr 9, 2015 09:20
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Anybody know what part number this hose is? It's leaking water at the bottom end Would it be this one? 
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Apr 9, 2015 10:05
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One of you lucky employed should get this in South Carolina, it's the other 02 special edition, so fully loaded: http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=573615 quote:2002 Miata with 156xxx miles and in very good condition inside and out. Black leather interior, very well maintained and well loved. Transmission fluid, differential fluid, turret fluid, coolant and oil are all fresh. New upper and lower shift boots as well. New brakes, New rotors on the front. Everything works. I am the second owner. Make an Offer. I am only selling because I have purchased something else. PM or call xxx or xxx . Asking $4500 OBO
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Apr 10, 2015 01:49
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urakawa posted:Anybody know what part number this hose is? It's leaking water at the bottom end I tried figuring this out by looking at the "mazda miata workshop manual filetype:pdf", but wasn't quite able to figure out what the hose is connected to. the PCV?
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Apr 10, 2015 02:33
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Barnyard Protein posted:I tried figuring this out by looking at the "mazda miata workshop manual filetype:pdf", but wasn't quite able to figure out what the hose is connected to. the PCV? Idle air control on the intake, keeps it from freezing.
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Apr 10, 2015 02:52
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new window crank because the passenger side was missing plastidip removal progress  
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Apr 10, 2015 04:54
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I would be so tempted to just burn a few bucks at the pay & spray car wash to see just how close you can get with a high pressure hose. Something a little more powerful than your pressure washer. Man it's looking good. Surprised the paint is actually that nice under all that gunk.
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Apr 10, 2015 05:00
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I thought copart was all insurance/etc losses? It is around here, at least - no clean titled cars.
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Apr 10, 2015 05:05
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DipYourCar sells a spray that is supposed to re-liquify PlastiDip, even after it's been all sun hosed like yours. Might be worth looking into it; https://www.dipyourcar.com/Dip-Dissolver-Category/ P.S. Nice find urakawa!
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Apr 10, 2015 05:44
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Maybe someone has heard of this weird issue that's hard to diagnose because it's intermittent and difficult to reproduce. It seems like, occasionally, after driving the car around normally (2005 MSM) I go to turn into a parking spot and I hear this distinctive "BARRUMPH" rubbing noise from the front end. It might only be from the driver's side, and it doesn't cause any steering wheel feedback (that I can recall.) It tends to recur if I've driven around a bit, and then fairly slowly navigate into a parking spot with a turn of the wheel. Again, it's almost impossible to force a reproduction, and I've only heard it once since pulling the car out of storage (only a couple weeks now.) Nothing like it ever happens when driving the car normally. It's one of those things that's infrequent enough that I forget about it until it rudely reappears. I'd love to get to the source of the issue and squash it for good, though.
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Apr 10, 2015 06:29
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urakawa posted:new window crank because the passenger side was missing Would a Vinyl Zapper work? link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EnplRocybbk You might be able to borrow one if you know a guy at a sign shop or something.
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Apr 10, 2015 06:37
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blk posted:I thought copart was all insurance/etc losses? It is around here, at least - no clean titled cars. The ones near me in LA have a few clean titled cars but you're right they are mainly insurance / salvage title. There's an option you can filter to see only clean title cars that's what I used.
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Apr 10, 2015 15:39
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Atomizer posted:Maybe someone has heard of this weird issue that's hard to diagnose because it's intermittent and difficult to reproduce. It seems like, occasionally, after driving the car around normally (2005 MSM) I go to turn into a parking spot and I hear this distinctive "BARRUMPH" rubbing noise from the front end. It might only be from the driver's side, and it doesn't cause any steering wheel feedback (that I can recall.) It tends to recur if I've driven around a bit, and then fairly slowly navigate into a parking spot with a turn of the wheel. Again, it's almost impossible to force a reproduction, and I've only heard it once since pulling the car out of storage (only a couple weeks now.) Nothing like it ever happens when driving the car normally. It's one of those things that's infrequent enough that I forget about it until it rudely reappears. I'd love to get to the source of the issue and squash it for good, though. I've had this happen in my 04 MSM, hasn't happened in a long time though so I forget under what exact conditions it would happen. What I do remember is that it'd happen after coming to a stop with the wheel turned. Someone tried to tell me it was the wheel rubbing on something, but the noise happened after the wheels had stopped turning. 
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Apr 10, 2015 16:38
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Barnyard Protein posted:I've had this happen in my 04 MSM, hasn't happened in a long time though so I forget under what exact conditions it would happen. What I do remember is that it'd happen after coming to a stop with the wheel turned. Someone tried to tell me it was the wheel rubbing on something, but the noise happened after the wheels had stopped turning. Yeah, sounds like the same thing, except mine is always as it comes to a stop, but it sure seems to involve the wheel being turned (yet I can't reproduce it on demand.) It could possibly be a skidding sound, like the brake pads on the disc(s). Oh well. I've got another issue though: there seems to be some kind of leak in the car, in the passenger footwell. Water will soak the floormat and the carpet underneath, but I've never been able to find a source of water leaking down, i.e. every surface is dry leading down to the wet area. This occurs independently of A/C use (which I rarely use anyway) or rain; the first time I conclusively found the source of the "smell" was in the Spring, during a dry period which had neither rain nor the need for A/C, and the mat & carpet were soaked. I let the car dry out and have been keeping desiccant in there (the same kind used for boat/RV/etc. storage, and also kept in this car during Winter storage) but would also like to definitively solve this problem as well. I'll check up on the drain tubes & plugs in a little bit, but again this doesn't seem to be A/C or rain related.
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Apr 10, 2015 20:53
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 Man that's a hosed up dyno plot. Before is stock, after is with a MS3. With what I have in the car I should be in the mid 140s easily.  derp.
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Apr 10, 2015 23:23
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FatCow posted:
What's the issue here?
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Apr 11, 2015 00:43
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TrueChaos posted:What's the issue here? I'm guessing the cam pullies are reversed (E at the top of the right pulley, marks on the head indicates that's the intake side.)
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Apr 11, 2015 00:58
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Geoj posted:I'm guessing the cam pullies are reversed (E at the top of the right pulley, marks on the head indicates that's the intake side.) This is what I thought, but not having a lot of knowledge in this area I didn't want to seem like an idiot. 
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Apr 11, 2015 01:01
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It looks like the cam gears are a couple of teeth off of where they should be. The intake cam is on the left side of the picture the timing mark points below the mark by about 10 degrees.
rowebot44 fucked around with this message at 01:19 on Apr 11, 2015 |
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Apr 11, 2015 01:15
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rowebot44 posted:It looks like the cam gears are a couple of teeth off of where they should be. The intake cam is on the left side of the picture the timing mark points below the mark by about 10 degrees. This. The intake cam should be one tooth anti-clockwise. No idea why the exhaust cam uses I and the intake cam uses E. I blame Ford.
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Apr 11, 2015 01:52
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How are "degrees" measured in timing gears/cam/belts?
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Apr 11, 2015 02:27
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urakawa posted:new window crank because the passenger side was missing When I see he last picture part of me things it would look cool in a partial red and black dazzle camo.
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Apr 11, 2015 13:47
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Sadi posted:When I see he last picture part of me things it would look cool in a partial red and black dazzle camo.  I want to do this to my fading Montego Blue so bad right now.
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Apr 11, 2015 13:57
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A MIRACLE posted:How are "degrees" measured in timing gears/cam/belts? It should be 720/number of teeth. About 15* per tooth on a Miata.
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Apr 11, 2015 16:45
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Double posting, deal with it. Dropping the diff on a Miata is a miserable job. Took my breaker bar, both sections of jack handle, PB blaster, heat and enough force that I was wondering if I'd pull the car off the jackstands before the breaker bar broke to get the PPF bolts out. 
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Apr 12, 2015 03:33
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So, spring is here and with it comes an issue I'd forgotten about. Starting the car with the engine warm gives me a super-low and dippy idle. Like, wavering between an estimated 100-300 rpm. Feels like it's about to die on me. Revving it doesn't seem to help; goes right back down once I let off the gas. Driving for about 20 seconds does help, car goes back to normal--but it isn't always possible to take off right away. I lack the car-knowledge to diagnose this, and google searches are only getting me a common but seemingly unrelated idle-dip-at-stoplights issue. Manual 1995 with the 1.8L. Ideas?
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Apr 12, 2015 04:53
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Clean the throttle body with TB cleaner, and if you can get the idle screw out (this part is difficult) and clean inside with lots of TB cleaner and Q tips, it should solve the problem. But make sure you take the IAC valve off the throttle body first because if you get any cleaner in that you'll gently caress it all up, ask me how I know.
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Apr 12, 2015 05:00
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I went in the Miata's passenger footwell, and looked for the drain tube attached to the evaporator case. It was connected tight, but I noticed the support for the case was bubbled and rusty-looking:  Note that this is right above the floor mat, and although the wet area seems to be concentrated more on the horizontal portion (closer to the seat) I assume that something could be dripping straight down from that evaporator case, which would explain why the water/liquid doesn't appear to be coming from the sides, or the roof, etc. Again, this area is wet even without ever using the A/C, though. Has anyone seen this before? What exactly am I dealing with here? 
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Apr 12, 2015 06:18
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Pull off the black tube on the left and shove a coat hanger up into the evaporator case - that might help.
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Apr 12, 2015 17:05
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leica posted:Clean the throttle body with TB cleaner, and if you can get the idle screw out (this part is difficult) and clean inside with lots of TB cleaner and Q tips, it should solve the problem. But make sure you take the IAC valve off the throttle body first because if you get any cleaner in that you'll gently caress it all up, ask me how I know. Aw, hell. I tried this last fall but did a halfassed job because the aftermarket air intake was a bitch to wrangle. Then I didn't get it seated quite right and the hood almost sawed through the aluminum pipe. Certainly didn't touch the idle screw, I'll have to look at that. Thanks much. Now I just need to remember where I left that can of cleaner.
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Apr 12, 2015 17:17
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Changed out the spark plugs and got more plastidip off her 
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Apr 12, 2015 20:53
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Rate of plastidip removal's getting faster. You must be getting better 
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Apr 12, 2015 20:54
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That and my brother's been helping out a ton 
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Apr 12, 2015 20:57
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Anyone have a spare red NA trunk?
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Apr 12, 2015 22:46
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ONE OF Y'ALL. ONE OF Y'ALL. Picked up a 1990 Miata with a hardtop this weekend. I'll spare you pictures because it is a stock Miata. Loving the way it handles, but the steering is a little loose on-center. The PO claims to have changed out the front shocks with "whatever from NAPA" and the rears are presumably stock. With around 78k miles, the rears are probably shot too and in need of replacing. Would it be best at this point to have it aligned, or should I inspect/replace any bushings first?
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Apr 13, 2015 17:05
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