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Fish Cake
Jun 13, 2008

woof
yeah but you could own two of them

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Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
yeah im just chitchattin. the only thing id be seriously interested in is a beat2fuck NA that needs the camber and fart can sorted out. no garage in my life yet tho

Coredump
Dec 1, 2002

Put in the RX-8 wiper stalk so I can have variable intermittent wipers. Super easy install.

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



Did you buy OEM or eBay?

Coredump
Dec 1, 2002

Imperador do Brasil posted:

Did you buy OEM or eBay?

I bought OEM via Moss.
https://mossmiata.com/903-840-variable-intermittent-wiper-stalk-by-mazda

drat I thought it was cheaper when I ordered. I might have gotten ripped a little. Oh well, still a good upgrade.

Here's the new ride btw:

2015 Club PHRT with the 6 speed manual



I found it on FB and it was being sold by an older lady whose husband had suffered a stroke and could no longer drive it. During the time I was arranging financing and she was getting the last of the lien paid off the title her husband passed. Within days of me bringing that car home bad poo poo starts happening so I'm side eyeing the car in case its cursed. But it drives great and just turned over 20,000 miles with me.

Coredump fucked around with this message at 17:53 on Apr 2, 2024

GOD IS BED
Jun 17, 2010

ALL HAIL GOD MAMMON
:minnie:

College Slice
your new ghost friend is just making his home a little more comfy :3:

Coredump
Dec 1, 2002

GOD IS BED posted:

your new ghost friend is just making his home a little more comfy :3:

I'm not opposed to the ghost of an elderly Miata enthusiast chillin with me but I could have done without some of the shennigans.

thetan_guy42
Oct 15, 2016

murdera

Lipstick Apathy
alright thread, need some help with starting issues on my nb. I have a very strong hunch the starter is out for a few reasons:

-the battery is strong. there has never been any slow cranking or anything else which lead me to believe it's a battery issue. battery is only a couple years old, the connections are clean and tight and there is no sign of corrosion or chemical reaction.

-the issue has been gradual, for a while i would just keep trying and eventually get lucky. never tried banging on it but it would either start or give me nothing, no clicks or anything in between. so its the solenoid or starter, doesn't really matter which

-replaced fuses on a lark. because its easier. nothing

So now the new starter is here, I know where the bolts are but it is so hard to get leverage to them. I have swivels, extensions, flexible head socket wrenchs etc and all that ends up happening is the socket loses grip because of the bad angle and the one bolt i have tried gets rounded. I don't know where to go from here, other than start removing things like the exhaust manifold to gain access.

thetan_guy42 fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Mar 16, 2024

Dolemite
Jun 30, 2005
Managed to get the ole' '92 Sunburst onto the track for the first time. The engine ran great - the temp gauge didn't even hit the 12 o'clock mark.

Now, the brakes? They gave out after ~5 laps. Like, wisps of smoke from the wheels levels of giving out. :(

It was disappointing, because I purposely upgraded to fancy slotted rotors, Hawk HP+ pads, and ss brake lines, so that the brakes could handle 20 minute sessions. Once the brakes cooled, and I left to head home, the brakes were back to flawless performance.

The only variable left is the fluid, which I don't think has been changed in ~8-12 months. The pedal was nice and firm on the drive back, so I probably boiled the fluid. But, goddamn, all this after only five laps? Between this, and watching other cars run into mechanical problems, it's no joke: track driving is brutal on a car!

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Dude... the fluid is the first thing you check / make sure is good after checking that the (stock) rotors and pads aren't dangerously worn or rusted out :colbert:

Dolemite
Jun 30, 2005

Wibla posted:

Dude... the fluid is the first thing you check / make sure is good after checking that the (stock) rotors and pads aren't dangerously worn or rusted out :colbert:

Totes agree. It was a last-minute chance to hop on the track (I was doing a race school in their cars) for the last 10-15 minutes of the session. It slipped my mind to check the fluid. :ughh:

Lesson learned, for sure.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




You probably boiled the fluid. I ran HP+ when I was starting out, and with good fluid on stock nb brakes I didn't have any trouble until I got faster, then they'll fade after about 10 minutes with good fluid.

Change the fluid, preferably for a high temp fluid, and you're good to go.

Olympic Mathlete
Feb 25, 2011

:h:


Simply brake less.

(sorry)

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

I use Motul RBF600 in my 10AE and it has held up pretty well on track :eng101:

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy

Olympic Mathlete posted:

Simply brake less.

(sorry)
That's how I never had brake issues even running on OP's mystery fluid and cheapest aftermarket pads :colbert:


Just came across a few videos by I Do Cars video on the Miata transmission and engine teardown, it's very detailed and clear and might be helpful if you (or I...) ever have to tear one down
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJAvWSJTHu0

Olympic Mathlete
Feb 25, 2011

:h:


I shouldn't have joked about brakes, on the drive home last night I noticed the car started pulling to the right. Get the mile further home and I note that caliper is HOTTTTTTTT. Today it has been fine but obviously I need to take a look at that over the bank holiday weekend. :allears:

Also where the gently caress would I find out what diameter the input end of my intake camshaft is without tearing the engine to bits first? I've got a leaking cam seal despite replacing it last year so I'm looking at trying an SKF Speedi Sleeve but of course I need to know which size for my 1998 1.8.

*edit: taking a look at the camshaft seals on various sites I'm getting a 47/48mm internal diameter which is nice and vague.

*edit 2: inner diameter seeeeeeeems to be 34mm, external 48mm.

Olympic Mathlete fucked around with this message at 15:03 on Mar 27, 2024

Dolemite
Jun 30, 2005

TrueChaos posted:

Change the fluid, preferably for a high temp fluid, and you're good to go.


Wibla posted:

I use Motul RBF600 in my 10AE and it has held up pretty well on track :eng101:

I've heard great things about that particular fluid. I'll be grabbing some of that before heading out on the track again.

Russian Bear
Dec 26, 2007


I rented an ND2 RF for the weekend, ripped it around some great roads in the Santa Cruz mountains but came away feeling like I don’t want an ND2 weirdly. It was still joyful and nothing will replace rowing your own gears. However it was louder than I remember my NA being, which I’m sure can’t be right and it’s just my older ears now. Some of the modern car stuff is annoying with Apple car play, but that’s just how it is now. I still want to try a club/gt with the “quiet” soft top to be sure.

Anyways, getting older sucks and car enthusiasm feels weird now. Maybe I’ll just keep it to 2 wheels for the fun vehicles.

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

Were you driving top down? All the reports I read said that the RF was quieter than the soft top with the roof up, but louder with the roof down.

Russian Bear
Dec 26, 2007


I did both. The rear structure definitely catches a bunch of wind right by your head in a loud way even under 50mph. The top up was also surprisingly loud at 70-80 but maybe it was just especially windy that day now that I think about it. Going to try to find a GT soft top to try.

pastor of muppets
Aug 21, 2007

We were somewhere around the Living Hive, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold...

Yeah, I’ve had both versions of the ND: one soft top and one RF. The RF is definitely quieter in my experience. I’m also short though at 5’4”, so maybe ride position makes a difference.

Coredump
Dec 1, 2002

I wish I wasn't broke at the moment otherwise I would say its time to Exocet my 2004 Miata.

Russian Bear
Dec 26, 2007


pastor of muppets posted:

Yeah, I’ve had both versions of the ND: one soft top and one RF. The RF is definitely quieter in my experience. I’m also short though at 5’4”, so maybe ride position makes a difference.

This is also a factor for sure, I’m 6’4 and the wind skims the top of my head with the RF roof down.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
Yeah I think the proximity of your head to the upper edges of the roof probably has a big effect on the wind noise volume. I am 6’ tall, and I put in the Paco lowering rails in the driver seat. it may have helped a little bit, but not substantially.

With the roof down, if you’re driving above maybe 50 mph for any extended amount of time you really need to wear earplugs. I don’t know if that’s true in the soft top, but my ears will ring if I do it with the RF top down, and I think I have noticed some hearing damage which I regret.

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

I've used noise cancelling headphones in my 10AE on the way home from track days a few times. It really helps on driver fatigue when driving 2+ hours.

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
i'm 5'9" with uhh 30" legs for a reference. even though i'm pretty short my RF is still a chaos monkey noise-wise with the top down. And I Do Not Care. Except above like 90mph. There it starts to get kinda danger zone with wind noise. But i relatively rarely punch it, i'm fine with limit+7 cruising and it's fine there and I can even still take phone calls. The nd2 speakerphone is MAAAAAGIC.

---

Speaking of which, it's time for a tire rotation and it's got locking nuts on there that i dont have the keys for. I bought a set of extractors to blast them off with an impact, but I'm not even sure i want to get security lugnuts back on to replace. Thinking about just ordering four stock lugs from the mazda dealer to replace them with. I don't think anybody's stealing these stock wheels.

Ether Frenzy
Dec 22, 2006




Nap Ghost
What kind of locks? Spline drive will slow down undetermined thieves, but if it's this kind


a large beefy flatbladed screwdriver and a strong set of wrists will do the trick

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Do people steal rims these days.

Even those clover style locks are easily defeated with a set of emergency lug but removers/ "master keys" they you can get online for $100

I've replaced all my security lugs because there is a bigger chance that I'll lose the key than my rims being stolen.

Bulk Vanderhuge
May 2, 2009

womp womp womp womp

Wibla posted:

I've used noise cancelling headphones in my 10AE on the way home from track days a few times. It really helps on driver fatigue when driving 2+ hours.

Active noise cancellation doesn't protect you from hearing damage, I encourage everyone to use ear pro. I use musician ear plugs so I can still enjoy the stereo.

Olympic Mathlete
Feb 25, 2011

:h:


Musician's earplugs are great generally, clean up the audio because they drop everything ~25dB so you lose a lot of the poo poo and only get the amplified stuff you actually want to hear.

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy

Bulk Vanderhuge posted:

Active noise cancellation doesn't protect you from hearing damage, I encourage everyone to use ear pro. I use musician ear plugs so I can still enjoy the stereo.

Or use in-ear monitors which will both isolate from the noise and get you the best sound quality you could ever hope to get in a car

Ether Frenzy
Dec 22, 2006




Nap Ghost
Unrelated but almost every music venue in America will provide you with audio nerd tier ear-pro quality plugs (hear conversation, not loud music) if you ask at the box office or backstage bar. It is amazing race venues haven't gotten on board, still. I was wearing cotton stuffed in my ears thanks to my dad at races in the 70's.

Coredump
Dec 1, 2002

mobby_6kl posted:

Or use in-ear monitors which will both isolate from the noise and get you the best sound quality you could ever hope to get in a car

I've been meaning to look into a set of these. You got any you would recommend?

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy

Coredump posted:

I've been meaning to look into a set of these. You got any you would recommend?
I have an old pair of Etymotic ER-4, the current version seems to be this:

https://www.amazon.com/Etymotic-Research-Reference-Precision-Earphones/dp/B01GW785KQ/ref=sr_1_2
There are also cheaper models like this one https://www.amazon.com/Etymotic-ER3XR-Extended-Response-Earphones/dp/B076652HPH/ref=sr_1_3

The important part is probably the tri-flange design, it seem to very good at blocking out noise (just like earplugs would) so you can listen at a low volume. Though you can also get foam or custom-made tips for your ears.

They are easily good enough for me so I haven't looked into more modern stuff, but there's a poo poo-ton of options if you ask in the audio thread. Wireless might make it easier so you don't get tangled in the seat belt or handbrake lever or something.

Teach
Mar 28, 2008


Pillbug
Went out for a lovely cross-country thrash this afternoon, and was reminded that the UK is still very muddy and wet, especially on backroads.





Will get the toothbrush out tomorrow, I promise.

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy
The weather finally stopped being lovely over this Easter but I was busy with other poo poo and didn't have time for a nice trip :(

Today I got some of my aliexpress poo poo for my baby
Seal tool that someone suggested: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004634440959.html
Also found the window bushings: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006076339331.html
and a dipstick: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005664406259.html



Nothing that goes inside the engine (other than the dipstick I suppose) so I'm curious to see how this will work out. I ordered during the last sale so stuff was a few bucks off.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

mobby_6kl posted:

The weather finally stopped being lovely over this Easter but I was busy with other poo poo and didn't have time for a nice trip :(

Today I got some of my aliexpress poo poo for my baby
Seal tool that someone suggested: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004634440959.html
Also found the window bushings: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006076339331.html
and a dipstick: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005664406259.html



Nothing that goes inside the engine (other than the dipstick I suppose) so I'm curious to see how this will work out. I ordered during the last sale so stuff was a few bucks off.

What are you using those tools for?

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy

MetaJew posted:

What are you using those tools for?
Everything is for my NB2.

The seal removal tool is for doing the timing belt job, hopefully later this spring. Someone, probably even ITT, suggested using it to avoid loving up the sealing surfaces.
The bushings are to fix the slow power windows
The dipstick is well a dipstick, to replace the one with the broken loop which is extremely common. I was going to 3D print a handle but it was $3 so why not.

Oh, also got some parts for a fun DUY project, but I'll post once it's done and working.

thetan_guy42
Oct 15, 2016

murdera

Lipstick Apathy
managed to get the old starter off the nb. tough but not as bad as it seemed, now have to get the new one on and hopefully thats it :pray:

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Isolationist
Oct 18, 2005

The implication.
Anyone know anything about bride seat rails? I'm looking to put a Stradia III (reclining race seat) in my ND to get me as low as possible, after the Aurora/blackworks lowering rail on stock seat started rattling like crazy. New plan is to strip the heating element from the stock seta and chuck it in the stradia, resulting in an oem+ seating setup and hopefully getting it back low enough that I can wear a helmet on track (not possible with the stock rails).

Problem is Bride comparability lists two rails/brackets that are compatible for the car/seat, the LR type and the RO type - with no details as to which is lower. I've emailed Bride to no avail, unfortunately.

Isolationist fucked around with this message at 10:52 on Apr 6, 2024

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