Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

^ That owns actually, would daily.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

blk posted:

ND questions:

Club is the only ND trim with LSD? No hope for GT?

ND2 worth it over ND1, or just tune a ND1 for cheaper?

Yeah AFAIK the Club is the only one with the LSD (I can't speak for the 30th Anniversary Edition though). I haven't driven an ND2 but I don't feel I need the extra hp even up at my 7000ft. Sure it would be nice but if the price difference is big enough I wouldn't worry about it and just get the ND1. Purely with an ecu tune I think you can approach ND2 power levels.

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

Thom ZombieForm posted:

it has this feature where it doesn’t roll backwards on a hill for a few seconds so you don’t need to learn the ebrake trick

I didn't know about this on my test drive and almost thought something was wrong. Wish I could defeat it, felt really unnatural to me and activates on the slightest of inclines.

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

For me a difficult thing with manuals is starting from a red light and the vehicle in front of you doesn't accelerate as fast as you thought it would so you have to clutch in again and then re-engage still in 1st. If you can do that smoothly you'll be well on your way.

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

Partial Octopus posted:

I just installed the flyin' miata fox coilovers in my ND2 and hooooly poo poo they are amazing. I can not recommend them enough. All of the body roll is completely eliminated and the car feels so much more composed. They're also still very compliant. Super comfortable on the highway and poor quality roads.

Can you keep close to the original ride height? Did you do sways before too?

I have a club model and the billstiens seem great but wondering what coilovers or the Konis would be like. I can’t lose too much ride height though my driveway enters on an incline.

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

TrueChaos posted:

It's going to depend on your lot conditions, temperature range you typically run at, how much adjustment you can get out of the car, etc. Though, for what it's worth, E-street at Auto-X nationals 2019 results (where NB's play in stock form) every single miata entry finishing higher than 24th was running Rivals or the new Yokos.

I got the new yokos [on an nd tho] and they are quiet

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

Does the ND abs automatically adjust front / rear bias? Looking to upgrade my front rotors to larger diameter and more autox style pad.

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

blk posted:

How's the stock suspension on the ND? Dogshit out of the box like the NC?

You'll want some sway's for sure, have fun changing the front. Club model bilstiens are good but swap the springs.

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

Echoing what others have said, I have ND Brembos, factory pads, with 200TW tires. I can get the abs to activate if I suddenly stand on the brake but if it’s a slow engagement abs rarely activates even with more and more pressure. I think it brakes well but I’m sticking to 7/10 on the canyons. I’m certainly due for a flush, bleed and have some r4s pads waiting to install, excited to see how that will change things.

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

Those 16s in the before make it look like a monster truck, echoing everyone else looks excellent now

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

Wheel bearing? How are your brake pads? Doesn’t seem like tire rubbing but did you lower it a ton?

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

If I know someone aside from me is removing wheels I always carry a torque wrench

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

And a free (14?) deep socket ?

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

Zorak of Michigan posted:

it's hard to shift into second without bad noises unless the clutch is all the way to the floor

How does he normally shift into gears?


Like the poster above I dont know how much a shop would cost to fix but the transmission looks the most expensive. I wouldn’t worry too much about the mileage. Suspension should be an easy fix. Still though you’ll likely be able to sell it for what you paid and maybe even put into it when you upgrade.

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

Black

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

Anybody done a roll bar in the ND? I’m wondering how difficult the hard dog m4 roll bar and maybe a racing seat will be. I’ve done suspension, sways, brake and catch can stuff myself but wondering if it’s significantly more work and will I need two people to mess around with the top? Thanks.

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

XYLOPAGUS posted:

Posting for some second opinions and because SA is best forum.

I have an ND RF that I daily drive. In Pittsburgh. All year round. I have a set of 16 inch wheels with blizzaks for the winter before you ask. More importantly, I have gotten into HPDE with the ND and quite enjoy it. I did 4 long weekend events this year.

Currently I have a third set of wheels (hypergrams) with some hankook rs4s mounted and both karcepts sway bars mounted. I found after mounting the front bar that the car pushed quite a bit. Adding the rear bar moved the handling back to neutral.

I'm now looking at suspension setups that will be comfy enough for DD but also (mostly) eliminate the body roll on track. It also appears as if I'll have to install a roll bar, per my last track day, which eliminates the ability to drop the top.

I'm at a but of a crossroads.

I can dump another $1,800 into the ND minimum for the roll bar and suspension or put that aside for a dedicated NB track car when I can store a third car. I can probably get past losing the ability to drop the top, but I'm curious on thoughts. FYI as of this moment I don't have space or a vehicle capable of towing. I may move back to Houston soon ish so I have time to think. Also, car groups love spending other people's money so go for it!

It’s your car but I wouldn’t sacrifice the top down especially in something as unique as the RF. Also you might not want to daily a race car, you’ll be swapping pads and wheels all the time. And with the maybe move and having an option to get a dedicated car later on, it sounds like there’s a lot negatives at least right now. However on the other hand gently caress yeah performance cars own daily drive full stiff, squeal brakes and be loud as hell. So idk just be aware of trade offs?

I’m one to talk too as I’m slowly turning my ND into a race car but it’s not my daily.

FWIW Flyian Miata fox coilovers are very street and track friendly, comfy and feel good fast.

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

A pound lighter would be nice but I’d still go with grey.

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

Partial Octopus posted:

Is the stock cooling in the ND2 sufficient for track days or should I invest in an oil cooler if I plan on doing them frequently?

Th ND2 has added some sort of extra oil cooling vs the ND1 right? I’ve read the bolt on oil coolers won’t fit the 2019+ . Do a track day and see if it starts pulling timing maybe ? Sorry for a poo poo answer.

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

I’m sorry for shitposting but I have some amazing low traffic, technical, canyon roads around me and this car brings me so much joy there.

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

This summer I popped the sidewall on a Yokohama advan neo by running over a ~fist size rock. I was being dumb trying to use the gutter to corner faster and learned my lesson quickly $$$.

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

Wibla posted:

Is the NC gearbox the same as the NB1/NB2 6-speed?

Anecdotally, the 6speed in my 10AE makes a pretty noticeable sound (and feels notchy) going from 1st to 2nd. I've no idea when the transmission fluid was changed the last time though...

If it’s sounds kinda like a clop (think like horse hoof maybe is the best way I can think of now to explain it) I’ve heard that on almost every ND. I changed my fluid and I believe the original fluid was in it. I didn’t really notice a difference in the feeling of the shifter but it won’t hurt. Have fun doing it yourself without a lift though lol

Edit: Oops sorry I read 10AE as 30thAE

Virgil Vox fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Jan 7, 2021

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

SpartanIvy posted:

Next Miata should have a small battery pack to keep weight down with a rapid charge option. If you can go 100 miles on a charge in a Miata you're good to go in 99% of use cases.

I recognize that I’m not most cases but that wouldn’t even get me to the nearest wal mart and back lol

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

I want to do some aero but I don’t want to be raced at every stoplight. It looks stock now and already gets enough attention.

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

Partial Octopus posted:

Anyone here interested in buying a low mileage track prepped ND2?

I've had some recent changes in my life and owning two cars is a bit impractical for me right now. As much as it saddens me to sell it I think it's the right thing to do.

Does anyone have advice on what the best way to go about this would be? I'm not sure if I should try to sell it whole or part it out and revert it to stock. I don't have a great space to work on it so I may have to pay to get it reverted back to stock unfortunately.

The car has the following:

2019 ND2 Club Recaro package with the Brembos and BBS wheels. Ceramic Metallic.
Flyin' Miata Fox suspension
Hard Dog Roll Bar
Konigg Hypergram 17x8 with new Conti ECS
Porterfield RS Pads, also new
Flyin' Miata lightweight hideaway hitch.

Was thinking of asking $29k which is around the top end of KBB.

Can afford the car but if you don’t mind I’d like to ask:

Did you install the roll bar yourself? How was that process?

Do the 17x8s need a fender roll with being lowered and like -2 camber? Do they rub control arms or that plastic fender liner?

(Might be interested in wheels and hitch if you do part)

Thank you!

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

So Bridgestone discontinued the RE71 in 205 width (stock ND size). Is the Direzza ZIII a close enough substitute? Although maybe the correct answer is get some wider wheels :getin:

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

Hikaki posted:

Brake time is coming up in the ND and I'm looking at these Porterfield R4S pads, but it says that they don't come with the shims and clips and stuff. Will I be able to re-use the stock ones? I've only done pads once before on my NA like 7 years ago and I can't remember exactly what the shim situation was. I think the pads came with their own hardware and the old ones didn't even fit on the new pads.

Yeah, you can peel off the backing plates easily, I clean with simple green and then liberally apply anti brake squeak juice between the pad and plate, it’s easy and obvious once you see the pieces. Fitment was perfect. Those are good pads but my rears always seem very dusty.

I’ve gone through maybe 3 or 4 sets of the R4s but in one box maybe by mistake I got new backing plates so you might get lucky!

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

Thom ZombieForm posted:

I am eyeing a flyin Miata sway bar for the nd2- looks like an involved, stressful install so found a shop that should have the skills. As a car noob who has never altered their vehicle, are there any trip reports from goons on the sway bar addition? I am probably only going to be on the streets in the short term future, but can perceive the rolly nature of the stock nd. Why is this considered “playful” for the streets? Will. A sway bar reduce “playfullness”? I don’t understand how having the car be more compliant would reduce the road experience, then again I’ve never driven an aftermarket sway barred car

The front sway bar is a beast to install, if you don’t have much wrenching experience taking it elsewhere would certainly save the pain. It will level your car out in turns making it seem like it’s responding to your turning inputs faster.

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

Thom ZombieForm posted:

Thanks, I watched the ~30 min explanation of sway bars on the FM site (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oYaoDgMCmtc) so have a better understanding now. Looks like they also are selling a reinforcement kit for the front sway bar, as I guess there's a potential to rip the sway bars off the frame with heavy use on the ND... (https://www.flyinmiata.com/ND/sway-bar-reinforcement-kit-front-nd-2016-reinforces-factory-mounting.html). - The 2020 model is not even listed as a "Designed for" field so I'll email them about it I guess.

I believe I read on the Miata.net forums that the only times that’s happened is with the karcepts bar on full stiff. (Of course this is just what people are posting so ymmv) Unless your running r tires and doing insane track days or auto x I wouldn’t worry much about it.

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

Springs will usually put you in an entire different auto x (and other motorsport) class but changing the front sway is a good way to stay in the stock classes; I think that's why a lot of people go with the sway-bar. Also if you want to keep your ride height I don't think springs would be the answer. They could give you a harsher ride as well.

If you go the DIY route this is a great guide: https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=709333 , I used this but couldn't manage to fish the bar (flyin miata) through so I loosened the radiator support brackets to give me like a 1/2" more clearance.

The Karcepts bar is easy to put in being straight but it will squeak and make noise, I think it would be a little overkill unless you trailer your car to events.

Virgil Vox fucked around with this message at 22:56 on Mar 31, 2021

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009



Nice to be small

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

I ordered a sparco seat, pci mounts, 4 piece harness (I think I should have got a six) and the hard dog m4, oh and some motor and diff mounts. For a club nd1 :stoked:

Virgil Vox fucked around with this message at 06:57 on May 6, 2021

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

BlackMK4 posted:

Cancel the 4pt if you can, most clubs aren't going to let you run them

I’m too late on that one but I’m gonna run it and stock belts only using the 4pt for auto x (roughly 2x a month). Gonna wait to try nasa till I have more cooling on the transmission (NDs are fragile) and differential (.6l !?)

If I recall right your in AZ right? If you or someone could help me with a first track day when I get all this gear sorted that would be cool. Although my ultimate goal is to be pretty good at solo and do a hill climb or two

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

Speaking of cooling, I highly recommend the versus brake ducks

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

Trimming the panels on the ND hard dog really sucks

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

Finally got the M4 bar on, trim panels back and sparco evo in. Lots of ins and outs on the seat. Full forward and up a few pegs equally front to back on the PCI mount which is still lower and further back then what I did OEM. Passes broomstick test. Clearance for tightening stuff is horrible. Still need to somehow secure the original floor pretensioner but then I should be set. I’m amazed at how difficult blind spot checks are. It’s comfy and the harness bar works great.

Virgil Vox fucked around with this message at 06:59 on May 10, 2021

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

Love it



Im fixing to run stock belts too. But It’s amazing how little your body feels g forces now, I’m sure I’ll get used to it quick.

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

I don’t know other threads to ask but I guess here goes: in general wider tires have more grip, but why specifically? Is it the wider track? If it is the wider track could a smaller offset with a skinner tire say a 215 +38 instead of 235 +45 be just as quick?

I’m considering another set of wheels, I like the quick turn in feeling of skinnier tires but I want to be faster at performance driving. I noticed a difference between 205 and 215 (not the same exact tire but both 200tw fatties) with the stock wheels and prefer the 205s.

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

um excuse me posted:

a quality tire grip post

Thank you for the effortpost! Still digesting the info but it's making sense; after I did an alignment (maxed castor, about -2 camber all around, small toe in) and sways I was surprised how quickly it suddenly oversteered with little warning. Getting a lot better at catching it though; I auto x as much as I can and ran some all seasons in the winter, they certainly helped train me to be even smoother. Doing the chalk on the sidewall trick and running 205/45/17 200tw Re71s, hot is around 30 PSI and I'm still not rolling the sidewall, I haven't really dipped under that but I should find a parking lot at night and see how low they can go.

I kinda want to keep the car as light and flickable as possible hence an aggressive offset but w/ a more OEM sized tire. On the other hand I want to be competitive in STR auto x but everyone there is running 9in wide wheels with a 245.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

Oil cooler and motor mounts

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply