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Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

Phone posted:

50 mph is 73 ft/sec, and to convert units again, 7.3 ft per 100 milliseconds

are there situations where you couldn't possibly foresee a drastic change in conditions that you can recognize and react to within 200ms? no cheating with hovering your foot over the brake, perfect threshold braking, too.

I look at it the opposite way: is there any situation where I wouldn't like to have another 200ms to avoid a crash?

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Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

If one wishes to be technical, he's saying the car has a modest boost threshold, but no lag. Lag, in this taxonomy, refers to how long the engine takes to develop boost after it's already developing enough revs to create some.

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006


The only thing keeping me from cashing out all my hopes and dreams to go buy that car is that I need to be able to drive my third car in any weather if needed, and that car is way too special to drive down salted roads.

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

All 2020 GTs have it, inheriting it from the Club.

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

I suspect that one of those people came with the driver, but the other skied over, full of desperate eagerness to meet the refined owner of such an elegant and appealing conveyance.

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

A guy I've known for almost 30 years wants to sell his Miata. I had planned to go looking for a used Miata next year, which would have given me time to save up $10-15k for a relatively nice one. This one that my buddy is selling is not so nice - 2001 Miata LS, 115k miles, and it's starting to show little gremlins. Ones that worry me in particular are that he says it's hard to shift into second without bad noises unless the clutch is all the way to the floor, and that the rear suspension is sagging a little bit and will hit the stops when you go over a pothole. I like driving cars but I don't like working on cars. Do those sound like things that are going to turn into expensive repairs in the next 15k miles / two or three years? If I can make this thing last for just that long without expensive repairs, I'll likely have saved enough cash to upgrade to an ND.

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

Buddy says it's just second right now, but my theoretical knowledge of transmissions makes me think that it's probably a sign of creeping badness. Hrrm. This is deeply conflicting for me.

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

Virgil Vox posted:

How does he normally shift into gears?


Like the poster above I dont know how much a shop would cost to fix but the transmission looks the most expensive. I wouldn’t worry too much about the mileage. Suspension should be an easy fix. Still though you’ll likely be able to sell it for what you paid and maybe even put into it when you upgrade.

I appreciate the input from you and TrueChaos. I decided that the opportunity to buy a Miata from someone I know and trust, even if it wasn't my dream car, was going to be a better deal than trusting that the right rando would appear when I was ready. It's mine now. Well, it will be, once the dealer that did the PPI finishes doing the maintenance I asked for. Then when I have it back I'll rebuild the shifter, which looks like an amazingly doable task, and replace the latches on the soft top. I'm not sure what it is about the Miata experience that makes me trust my screwdriving skills, but I'll take it.

I'll post pics when I can but imagine Olympic Mathlete's, but with a lot more wear on the paint from being a former Massachusetts car.

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

So, on my new-to-me 2001, I've managed to repair both soft top latches and three of four hard top latches. One of the screws on the fourth latch hates me unconditionally. First it stripped, and then when I took an extractor to it, the screw broke right at the end of the threaded section of the top. Anyone have thoughts on where I could take it where someone smarter than me could fix it up? I'm not sure if this is a mechanic job or some other sort of specialist problem.

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

Anyone know of an easy to install and not unattractive way to add permanent USB ports to an NB without replacing the cigarette lighter port?

To elaborate: I'm thinking I want to yank out the existing (aftermarket) head unit I have and put in a double-DIN model with wireless Android Auto. All the ones I'm looking at come with extension cables for their rear USB ports. I'd love to put them someplace convenient and usable, but installing a stereo with a Crutchfield kit is about the limit of my tool-using skill, so I'm not keen on taking a hole saw to my console. I think I could live with mounting something like this cable from Crutchfield but with the ports spread our parallel to the mounting surface, so that the entire thing would be like a centimeter high. It seems like an obvious idea but I haven't found it at Crutchfield or Amazon, which leaves me wondering if there's an even cooler idea that I'm missing. I'm also considering just punting and just routing the cords to the glovebox or something. At least that way I wouldn't be doing permanent damage to anything.

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

If my phone's battery gets low, I'd like to be able to plug it in. That shouldn't happen often but I can't rule it out. For anything else I have in mind, glove box is probably fine.

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

My NB is my dry weather car- I don't drive it in the wet because I want to slow the progress of the rust. I have to be mindful of how I shop, but it can carry a full week's worth of groceries for our family of three. I just have to fill up the passenger seat and footwell, carefully.

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

A brand new problem with my NB started yesterday: I can't find first. I get third whether I try to go up and left or up and center. The shifter feels normal and self-centers properly if I push it to the right, but if I pull it to the left, it's floppy and does not return to center. There's no vertical play anywhere.

I redid the shifter bushings in the fall but that is the most in-depth car repair I have ever done or ever want to do. My current feeling is that the chance of it being something I can get to from the cabin is small enough that trying to disassemble the shifter and bushings again is probably pointless. However, if it was a problem in that area, doing it myself would save me a couple hundred bucks. Can anyone think of anything diagnostically useful I can do from here? Anyone think that it probably is a problem in the boots or bushings rather than the transmission itself, such that I'd be a fool not to try to look at said boots and bushings?

I could afford the shop charges but they'll almost certainly eat the money I was hoping to put into a new top this spring. :(

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

I did the bushing back in October, and it ran problem-free until Saturday. It's got a date with a mechanic on Thursday. Thanks though!

I did think about a broken boot or bushing, but even before I did the change, when the shifter was flopping around, I never had any trouble finding gears if I took it slow. This felt different enough for me to gamble that disassembling the shifter to check it out would just be an hour's wasted work before I drove to the shop anyway. Edit: Given the age of the car and signs that previous owners were excessively trusting, I'm thinking that if the shop does need to drop the transmission to check it out, I'll probably ask them to put a new clutch in there. Both mechanics on Wheeler Dealers have suggested that if you're going to pull it, you may as well do the clutch while you're at it, and if I can't trust Edd, what's left in life?

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

I haven't gotten the car back but the mechanic says it was caused by loose bolts in the tail shaft. I'm confused.

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

I don't really understand how the tailshaft bolts loosening caused the problem or how it happened. The garage also mentioned a missing gasket. Just missing. Sigh. I believe I'm the fourth owner of the car, and I know for a fact that the previous owner was a nice guy who didn't quite understand his relationship with his mechanic. His mindset was "if I perform all the work my mechanic recommends, the car is properly maintained." The mechanic seems to have been thinking, "I will keep the owner from being stuck on the roadside, and if he wants other work done, he'll let me know." Thus, it came to me with crap shifter bushings, horrible wear on the top latches, mismatched lug nuts, and who knows what else. I'm perpetually torn between "it just needs to run for a few years while I save for an ND" and "I can't stand x crappy aspect of the car and I must find a way to fix it regardless."

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

It's definitely the voice of sanity, but the role of sanity in my Miata ownership is not always clear. :)

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

Got my summer wheels back on, and god drat, compared to the 18" wheels on my daily, dealing 16" 4-lug wheels is hilariously easy. Much love, car.

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

There's an adjustment screw but it's for adjusting the tightness of the latch. If they don't lock, you probably need replacement latch locks. I put these in my 2001 when I first got it. The previous owner had been relying on the visors to keep the latches from opening, sigh

https://www.flyinmiata.com/NB/billet-aluminum-top-latch-locks-pair.html

Anyone have any good tips on finding an installer? The Robbins web site lists a few in my area, but of the ones near me, one is closed, one isn't doing top installs anymore, and the last has terrible reviews.

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

Is it normal to get some burning clutch smell after installing a new clutch? I had a shop put one in a few hundred miles ago, and I can still smell it when I get home. I don't think it's anything I'm doing, since I never had this problem before the new clutch.

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

At a stop, with the clutch down, I can go from neutral to first without any drop in revs. Makes me feel better. Probably just needs more time to wear in. I put half a tank of gas in it today and Fuelly told me my last fill-up was in January. Thanks all.

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

Ether Frenzy posted:

My '92 NA's roof is finally giving up the ghost, the clouded plastic window just split when I put the roof down last and it's had two or three holes develop in the last 6 months that got patched but clearly it's time to make an actual fix.

What's the recommended replacement and how much should it cost to put on?

I've been entirely happy with the Robbins top that local Miata specialist Immortan Auto installed for me. I bought it a couple years back, before inflation kicked in, so I don't know current pricing. The job is fiddly, so be warned it might be a long day, or an expensive labor bill.

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

tactlessbastard posted:

It doesn't seem that bad a bend, idk



I don't see anything clearly broken, but there's hail tonight so I'm going to leave it in the barn until I can get it to a shop on my next day off.



Are the tires holding pressure? If they are, my gut would be more worried about the suspension than the wheels.

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

Even a good big car will be made more enjoyable by contrast with a Miata.

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

Shai-Hulud posted:

Just a quick question as I'm curious about the general opinion: Zircon Sand yay or nay?

Looks kind of interesting on a CX-90, but all wrong for the Miata.

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

If they bring back a lighter color for the soft top and seats, I will be truly, deeply, soulfully glad I waited to buy.

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

I'm still clinging to the dream that the US might get a tan top.

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

I've got a 2001 in mediocre shape that I'm planning to trade in on a new Miata this year. I have a hardtop for it with a hole in it. I know a good hardtop is worth four figures, but I don't know if they mean anything to speak of for trade-ins, much less enough that getting it fixed would pay off. Am I right in thinking there's no way to ever come out on top if I'm trading in? My fallback plan is to put it up on my local FB Miata group for $50 as-is just to get it out of my garage without hassle.

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

Your truly thought the hardtop was the right place to learn how to remove a broken screw. The creaking noises that I thought meant "finally the tool has bitten into the shaft of the broken screw and things are moving now" was actually "the tool has bitten into the scm and is starting to poke through." By that time I had been wrestling with the problem for so long that I had lost all patience and nuance and just got done full stupid on it, and sure enough, I got a stupid result. I think a body shop that can handle SCM could fix it up, but I don't have any idea what would be involved in trying to put a new insert in there for a larger screw and make it fully functional that way. I have no idea what having only two screws instead of three does to the strength of the latch; I'm guessing it's perfectly adequate for road use, but I wouldn't track it.

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Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

Were you driving top down? All the reports I read said that the RF was quieter than the soft top with the roof up, but louder with the roof down.

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