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HolHorsejob posted:How do you deal with things that are painted shut? In this house, some idiot way back when painted everything without tape, including several wood-frame windows and the loving gas shutoff valve for some reason. I'd like to be able to open windows and shut off the gas. Stanley knife down the edges to break the paint, rubber mallet or prybar to persuade it open, expect to repair & touchup the paint afterwards.
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Jun 10, 2020 09:42
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Electroplating tends to be really thin so yes, what you see is what you'll get.
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Jun 16, 2020 17:52
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redreader posted:I've got a wooden shed that has really weak doors/lock and was pried open a couple of years ago in the middle of the night while we were asleep, nothing was stolen. I'm setting up a gym in there so there'll be some stuff now. I want to set up some kind of super basic home alarm system for something like motion detection -> siren alarm. I'd use a clicker to turn it on and off, I suppose. I'm fine with it being just plugged into the power supply. I don't have internet in there and wifi probably can't reach. So just: Don't know about the US but here in the UK you can buy a dedicated shed or garage alarm that runs on batteries or mains with a sensor and keypad for like £15: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0781ZTCS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8lE6EbKQGMS6W just Google shed alarm wireless?
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Jun 17, 2020 10:33
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Sounds awesome, post a video
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Jun 19, 2020 10:24
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Count Roland posted:Hmm, maybe. The spring is attached at the top of the chassis and pulls the lever up. I could detach it from the top, add in some extra piece to allow the spring to connect lower down. Like a tiny keychain, or a sturdy piece of wire bent into a ring with pliers. The magnet has become weaker, it happens. Weakening another post of the mechanism to compensate is a bad idea. If you can't replace the electromagnet or make it stronger ditch the toaster.
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Jun 23, 2020 20:21
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Guildenstern Mother posted:What's the best way to mount a rubber duck head like a hunting trophy? Hot glue? Super glue? It's not heavy or anything so pretty much any method will work
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Jun 24, 2020 10:17
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Sylink posted:I have a garden and currently I'm expanding it. However, the one available spigot is not near where this garden has to be due to terrain etc on the property. So basically I have to run like 400 feet of garden hose just to reach it, which is annoying to deal with. What's the proper version in your mind? Because it sounds like the difference might be depth of trench and material, and if you're digging a 6" trench to half rear end it with $30 of materials when the proper job is (guessing) 18" / $100 is just do it right the first time.
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Jul 3, 2020 16:12
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You need a train/drip trim, usually for outside doors but maybe it'll do the job here?
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Jul 3, 2020 17:49
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Nevets posted:Very friendly, it's even in their name: Stay Please I love this.
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Jul 7, 2020 18:10
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Couldn't find the audio thread, using small words can anyone say whether I can splice these into the door speaker wiring of my Panda? It doesn't have tweeters at the moment.
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Jul 13, 2020 14:10
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Personally I'd say reverse the painting so you can touch up any bits you aren't happy with after the professionals have been through.
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Jul 17, 2020 16:09
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Dietrich posted:Contemplating building some built-ins on either side of my fireplace in my family room where there are 61" by 28" alcoves. The current plan is to get four 30"x24" assembled base cabinets from home depot or whatever and install them on the floor, put a wood counter-top of some sort above them, and then build four 30"x12" book cases to mount on top of these base cabinets, and then use trim to fill in all the gaps. 30"x12" bookcases? MDF will be fine primed and painted.
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Jul 25, 2020 15:40
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arbybaconator posted:We found this vintage rattan shelf and want to mount it to the wall in a spare bathroom. It doesn't have any mounting points.What would be a good way to do this? So... Hope you're not going to put more than a couple pounds of weight on that total. Without altering or causing any damage, I'd use pipe clamps around the uprights against the wall. If allowed to alter or damage it, I'd drill holes through the uprights and put anchors in the wall behind those holes. I mention the weight because when that's stood on the floor the shelves put their weight through all four uprights. Hung on the wall you're only supporting the rear ones, the weight on the shelves is going to cause the front to sink.
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Jul 26, 2020 09:48
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obi_ant posted:I want to horizontally place a 1x4 Ikea Kallax shelf, on top of a 4x4 Ikea Kallax shelf. Because of my space restrictions, this is the only way I can maximize the amount of space I'm working with. I assume this is pretty permanent right? It's disposable IKEA furniture, screw them together. Personally I'd screw through from the bottom unit into the top one, then find a way to secure it to the wall, especially if you have children or cats.
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Jul 28, 2020 18:15
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Our local DIY store has no painting supplies or timber, yet there's always a dozen or more people milling around in the empty aisles as if the staff are going to take pity on them and conjure something up.
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Aug 5, 2020 15:49
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Best case remove the tree, some minor excavation on the other side, some medium-to-major repair work on the wall. Worst case the wall comes down and gets rebuilt. Not a DIY job.
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Aug 9, 2020 23:03
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Lester Shy posted:Is there any way to identify this bulb? This seems a fairly comprehensive guide: https://blog.1000bulbs.com/home/how-to-identify-halogen-and-xenon-bi-pin-bulbs
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Aug 9, 2020 23:06
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armorer posted:Ah, that is a good cheap option. The water will end up pooling, to be sure, but she got around 40 gallons of water the last big storm, and that would mostly end up in the sump. The lip of this "tub" would be high enough that water would flow into the sump before it would overflow the lip. The thought here is that $20 and an hour of work might at least contain the problem to be "water along the back wall of the basement" rather than "shallow water all over the basement floor". Proper drainage is the right answer of course, but I'm not comfortable cutting up her floor to put that in, and a basement waterproofing company is going to want a decent chunk of change. 2x4 and a tube of silicone sealant to make it water proof and stuck down. Whipstickagostop posted:So I am moving into a new place next week, and I finally have a garage to set up my squat rack. How much of a drop and over how much of the base? Could you get a sheet of 1/2" MDF and glue/screw it up in layers so the top is flat but the bottom steps to follow the floor?
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Aug 16, 2020 17:38
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You're going to have to cut and peel the insulation off, wires get routed wherever in those things. Reconnect then reinsulate. Properly.
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Aug 18, 2020 22:32
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Just measure with a loving ruler for god's sake
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Aug 20, 2020 18:57
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Check that the burner isn't full of crud.
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Aug 28, 2020 14:25
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Definitely the second.
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Sep 1, 2020 22:03
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I want to build a small step in the garden, between the lawn and a cabin I'm building. It just needs to be 150mm tall, am I right in thinking from top down I'm okay with cosmetic stone top/mortar/concrete blocks/mortar/compacted hardcore? As it's a single riser code here says no need for handrail btw.
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Sep 4, 2020 11:22
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mcgreenvegtables posted:Definitely mindful of foundation issues. Not going to be digging anywhere near the fieldstone walls. How much height could you comfortably give up to this? Does the result need to be concrete? Could you frame and board over it? (I don't know if moisture would cause an issue under there)
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Sep 8, 2020 06:13
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