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DrBouvenstein posted:Hmm...possibly. I could rivet it together, then maybe some HVAC sealing tape on the outside seam (so any weird fumes from them getting hot don't go into my food) to make a slightly better seal? How hot do you think the smoke is going to be? Most galvy coatings are good up to 250°C. That said, aluminum duct exists and is pretty cheap. I don't have a link for the box, but an HVAC store should have a 12" return air box or supply plenum with a 4" collar at one end, probably in the $50 range.
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Aug 9, 2017 22:32
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Ohrmazd posted:I usually have to touch it right to the wire insulation though. Round boxes in ceilings are called ceiling fan boxes. They have the same anchor points as any other round box in residential construction. The lamp may fit onto a single-gang box, in which case you can get a single-gang-to-round adapter. Alternatively, you can get a round blank cover with a KO in the middle and just drill a couple of screw holes. Pictures in the electrical thread would help.
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Sep 9, 2017 17:36
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Toast Museum posted:That makes sense. I couldn't put my finger on a problem beyond aesthetics, but I don't want to make any more assumptions than I have to. Hypothetically, what if it were wired that way with the break-off fins removed? Regardless, wire your new outlet up with pigtails and wire nuts. You don't want an outlet going bad to ruin all your downstream power. Hypothetically, if it were wired the second way with the breakoff fins removed, then neither that outlet nor any outlet downstream would work. That outlet would test hot in one plug but show "open neutral" and test dead in the other plug. babyeatingpsychopath fucked around with this message at 23:14 on Dec 27, 2017 |
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Dec 27, 2017 23:12
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Seminal Flu posted:Some questions. It's sketchy to run a 240 (with neutral) that way, but it doesn't appear to be illegal per the 2014 code book (ch200). However, if there's a ground wire in the cable, it's required to be used, so that part is illegal, at least. You can run type NM cable in an enclosed area without stapling it to anything. See the Code Ch334. You have to secure it where possible, but across the top of an inacessible ceiling space will be fine. You're right that 30A needs #10 minimum, and possibly #8 depending on how far it is to the garage. 10/3(with ground) is going to require 3/4" EMT at a minimum, and I'd recommend 1". Pulling NM through EMT is a bitch. As far as heat goes, there's a bunch of math and stuff detailed in the code book about amapacity and whatnot, but you'll be fine for that 25'. Head over to the library and take a look at the code book. It's pretty readable. Head over to the wiring thread if you've got any more questions. Most of us are electricians and use the code book instead of relying on "from what I understand" and "I think it's ok."
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Dec 28, 2017 21:26
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McCracAttack posted:Does anyone know what this cap on the top of a heat pump is called? It's purely cosmetic so take it off and throw it away. Alternatively, put some tape or caulk or glue or wire or literally anything on it to stop it rattling for the moment then forget about it for three years.
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Jan 3, 2018 03:34
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wesleywillis posted:This seems like as good a thread as any. I looked back a few pages and didn't see any sort of concrete working thread. Typically the tube is to extend a hole above the surface of the ground. Say you're using 18" sonotube. You dig/bore an 18" hole to whatever depth and drop the tube in. The tube sticks above the top of the hole to let the concrete up that high. You then drop in your rebar/j-bolts/posts/whatever, pour in the concrete, use a vibrator to get the bubbles out, make sure everything is plumb and level AGAIN, and let everything set. The sonotube is sacrificial and remains in the hole forever. The part above the surface is cut/peeled away after the concrete sets. If your everything is going to be below ground, don't use tube unless your soil is soft garbage, I guess. I haven't had to pour posts/pole bases in such soil.
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Feb 17, 2018 21:19
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Dennis McClaren posted:I used my microwave as a timer for 4 mins while I stepped outside to play catch with my dog. I noticed it had been longer than 4 mins, walked inside - and the microwave is dead. I tried plugging it into different outlets in the house - no power. Won't turn on anymore. It's a new-ish Sharp microwave I got from Cosco. Like, you had it running with nothing in it for four minutes? The thing inside the microwave that produces the microwaves is essentially a heater. Without anything for those microwaves to heat, all that heat stays in the emitter. If you just had it blasting microwaves into an empty box, then you killed the microwave by burning out the emitter. Next time you're in Cosco getting a microwave, get a small timer as well.
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Mar 31, 2018 14:36
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Wasabi the J posted:I have done these things: Look on the back panel of the dryer for the wiring diagram and figure out what component causes the change filter light. Look at that next.
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Apr 1, 2018 21:55
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Motronic posted:To add to what others have already suggested: no filter will catch that crap. Shop vacs have an inlet and and outlet. You're going to want to buy additional hose to hook up to the outlet and pipe that poo poo outside. Crazy idea (I've never tried this): take a normal shop-vac, put the HEPA filter over the foam filter, and then put a few inches of water in the bottom of the shop-vac and run the hose under the water. That's a homebrew water trap, and the HEPA should get whatever doesn't turn into concrete inside.
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May 19, 2018 19:54
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Dawncloack posted:Thanks in advance! A threaded insert would work here. Find the thread pitch (they're standard sized, so M8x1.0 or 3/8-24 or something like that). You can then press the insert into the body, making sure you have a firm backing surface to avoid cracking, then you just spin the pot back into the insert and re-solder everything. Make sure you have a jam nut on the pot so you can lock the pot to the insert, otherwise it will eventually spin out. You could also use loctite or peen the threads of the insert to lock it in.
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Jun 4, 2018 21:01
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Black88GTA posted:I don't suppose anyone here has some familiarity with troubleshooting these? Or access to technical / service docs? I know it's days late, but this is an eddy current thickness detector, and the cables do go bad. It's likely that all six pins need to connect. Typically you'll have two shielded circuits, one excitation and one sensing, with an overall shield. If pins start disconnecting/cables breaking then the thing stops working. New cable is the best bet. I've tried repairing eddy current cables before, and they work for maybe one more go before giving up again. It's typically VERY finely stranded wire (24awg twisted shielded pairs, 24strands per wire, so like 32ga nominal?) because eddy current stuff is up in the RF frequencies. It's just hard to crimp or solder well at home. And yeah, cables aren't going to be cheap for the same reasons.
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Jul 4, 2018 04:53
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