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BrokenKnucklez posted:Any good shock recommendations for a 92 F350 4x4? There are some old rear end rusty rough country shocks on it and are begging to be replaced. Does it have the softer "off road" suspension, or the heavier springs? I find that the Bilstiens and Rancho RSXes I tried on my current F-150 off road package as well as my former F250 ORP to kinda feel like sloppy messes, and Rancho RS5000s fit the bill. Anything else I've been in with RS5000s was pretty terrible.
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Oct 27, 2011 01:40
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BrokenKnucklez posted:I don't think so. I am pretty sure its just plain "heavy duty" It has overloads in the rear and rides like the axles are welded to the frame. Yeah, if it feels like that, do NOT put RS5000s on it. You'll get beaten to death. As optikalus said, Bilsteins are a pretty solid choice. I've been pretty happy with them in general for most trucks.
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Oct 27, 2011 02:06
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Interrupt posted:Current issues: If that's the extent of your list you are golden. The best part about old stuff is that it is simple and cheap. If something else crops up after this, you're still fine. That's a good truck. Get it out of maintenance debt and you are in good shape (totally on the cheap). You done good.
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Nov 5, 2011 02:39
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Ok, so I slapped a set of Bilstiens on. I think it rides even worse. I have to dig the receipt out, but asked for a little softer set to make the ride a little better. That's how an unloaded F350 rides when it's working properly. The top leaves of the springs are necessarily beastly. The only option is to load it up, or get "off road" springs with a soft top leaf. If you still have someone in your area that re-works spring packs, it shouldn't cost too much if you bring them the springs and ask them to replace the master leaf with something more appropriate to what you want. Typically people who want both a decent unloaded ride and weight carrying capacity go with a smaller spring pack with a less aggressive maser leaf and air bags or similar. But really....it's an older 1 ton truck. It's gonna ride like crap unloaded.
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Nov 6, 2011 16:43
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Well, I swapped the tires out, and it improved the ride a million times. The ones on it are the thick side walled load carrying tires, You probably had some E's on there. If you drop to Cs, you can't really carry much of anything that truck was designed for, but it will feel better.
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Nov 6, 2011 23:59
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Imperador do Brasil posted:That must be nice; PA has some of the most draconian inspection laws around. Our inspection stations check everything from license plate lights to tire tread to headlight alignment, brake material thickness, wheel bearings and tie rods. It's insane. Making sure all the lights work, don't blind other drivers, that the brakes works, and that the steering and suspension isn't going to cause a loss of control is insane? There are several things you can call stupid in here: http://www.dmv.state.pa.us/pdotforms/pub_45/section_e.pdf But if you can't be arsed to keep your car in at least some minimum amount of repair, I really don't want to be on the same roads as you.
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Nov 11, 2011 15:35
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reddeathdrinker posted:You should see our MOT check then... Oh, I'm aware. Which is the point I'm trying to make about PA inspection being drat near what I would consider a "bare minimum" if you're going to bother having inspection at all.
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Nov 11, 2011 16:56
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Imperador do Brasil posted:I think draconian might be the wrong term. Antiquated maybe? We check every nut and bolt, but there's no emissions inspections to speak of in most counties. The point is that we DON'T check anywhere close to every nut and bolt. Did you read reddeathdrinker's synopsis of what a MOT inspection is like? As far as emissions, that is nearly a thing of the past in regards to ir being a separate "thing". Vehicles are expected to monitor their own emissions with the addition of downstream O2s. You can't pass an inspection with a MIL set, which would be the case if there were an emissions problem on a modern passenger vehicle. If it's OBDII, there is literally no reason to test the emissions separately if you won't issue an inspection sticker on a vehicle with a MIL. Dynos/tail pipe sniffers are a thing of the past (or a leftover from it) for the most part.
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Nov 15, 2011 15:05
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DJ Commie posted:Downstream O2 sensors ONLY measure the comparative percentage of HC against the main sensor. they do not measure NOx or anything else other than catalyst efficiency. You could have broken/removed EVR, PCV, and evap and run on 1 cylinder and it would never know if the main and secondary sensor are in agreement that the hydrocarbon section of the catalyst is functioning on a warm car. Broken/removed EGR: sets one or more P0400, 0401, 0402 and others Broken PCV: OBDII monitoring required as of 2004 (P1485 on Dodges, somewhere close for other makes, but still setting a DTC regardless) Evap: obviously a slew of code possibilities. The testing is sensitive enough to throw a a P0442 with so much as an ill-fitted fuel cap. Misfiring/not running on all cylinders: P0300 series
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Nov 16, 2011 15:02
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powderific posted:I sold my 99 Cherokee about 6 months ago and have been regretting it ever since. Loved having a 4wd truck and have had multiple projects where I really needed the cargo space and had to rent from lowes instead. Can't really afford to get something as nice just now, so I've been checking out older pickups (which are plentiful around here.) I just have no idea what to look for and am curious about this one: http://omaha.craigslist.org/cto/2688637934.html Any 4 wheel drive pickup that runs is worth $1500. Go for it.
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Nov 16, 2011 17:13
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DJ Commie posted:I'm aware of the OBD system and its code outputs, but you weren't talking about that, you were talking about what a downstream sensor does. I think you may have taken that out of context. The context was: there is no good reason to do a separate emission test on modern pasenger cars providing your inspection fails it for any DTCs that are set.
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Nov 17, 2011 04:04
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1KL0rwkj2vQ
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Dec 11, 2011 19:21
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Oxford Comma posted:If I buy a Disco, I'm told that the Disco I is better and more reliable (heh) than a Disco II. The upper crust snob in me is pushing me towards a Disco pretty badly. The Disco I's have a much simpler electrical system (every drat switch doesn't run through the body control unit like on the DII), and they ALL have a center differential lock. Only some years on either end of the DII production have CDL. Some that have it don't come with a linkage to use it from the cab and you have to add one/craw under the truck with a 13mm wrench to turn it on. On a DI it's just there. DI's also have better cooling systems, and don't have that ridiculous external Jarvik heart looking thermostat. They are also slightly smaller and turn better. All in all, if you want to offroad it, a DI is probably a better idea. But they come with a lot more likelyhood of needing work and more expensive parts than a Jeep or a 4Runner. I'd be looking at a (non-grand) Cherokee or a 4Runenr with a 22RE if you just want to roll on the cheap. A $3k Disco is some markets isn't worth buying, especially if you aren't really drat sure of what you are looking at. The prices vary wildly because there aren't that many out there to compare sales on.
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Jan 7, 2012 18:08
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ACEofsnett posted:Also : This tagline from the GM website : "Fully welded steel frame." Wait, what? What truck in that class doesn't have a fully welded steel frame? That might be great if you're cross shopping it against what? A ridgeline? Do they/you mean fully BOXED frame? Because I'd have to say that most things in that class do not have that. Land Rovers and such do, but not your typical SUV-ish 4 wheeler.
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Apr 18, 2012 16:15
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Hummer Driving human being posted:but the matte finish is similar to military CARC paint, isn't it? And all military vehicles do is either sit in a motor pool totally exposed to the elements or get nasty in the field and only are cleaned with high pressure water. Have you ever looked at the finish quality on those vehicles at any point after they've been put in service? It's fine for them. It's not a street car level of quality at all.
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May 16, 2012 03:49
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Hummer Driving human being posted:That's my point. What would a good paint be when you don't care about how it looks but simply want a cheap paint to cover the body? Much like a military vehicle it's nothing to do with the looks but all about the function. Any modern paint will work just fine if you don't care what it looks like. If you need it tougher than that, use bed liner. Military vehicles are routinely touched up with no need for blending because it just doesn't matter.
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May 16, 2012 04:18
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Our Gay Apparel posted:I'm thinking about buying a Series II (probably 2003) Discovery as an off-road/winter beater. They're pretty cheap. I know all about Land Rover reliability, but the 2003 looks like it had most of the problems fixed. Is this a retarded idea? Yes. That is literally the worst year you could possibly choose. Oil pump failures and no center differential lock on most of them, coupled with the same old same old DII block and sleeve issues that were exacerbated by tired end-of-life tooling and lack of any sort of quality control under BMW at the time.
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May 16, 2012 20:01
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jonathan posted:Also rock sliders. Too late.
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Jul 4, 2012 03:08
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TheFrailNinja posted:KC is obviously the first brand that comes to mind, but are there cheaper brands that are just as good? PIAA also comes to mind. Brand suggestions aside where is the best place to buy a light kit like this? There is at least one brand that is better than both in my opinion, but still not cheap. Possibly a bit cheaper....but the light are simply better constructed and brighter. http://www.lightforce.com/index I've been using them on rescue equipment (as in fire department stuff....including mounting on an air boat) for about 6 years now.
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Jul 22, 2012 19:29
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angry climber posted:Hello, I'm completely new to 4x4'ing and this is what I have to work with(I've since removed the running boards): That's a nice start, especially with the running boards gone. The tires probably leave a lot to be desired, but they should do for now. I can't suggest a place for you as I'm not local, but I will tell you to 1.) not go out alone and 2.) have at least basic recovery equipment (tow strap, and places to connect it to, a shovel, a good jack and some plywood to put it on so it doesn't sink into soft ground). This is actually a good primer for some basic info: http://www.offroadexperience.com/offroadguide1.htm And, bottom line: as slow as possible; as fast as necessary. If you stick to that as well as understanding that you absolutely SHOULD be walking obstacles or tougher looking sections of trail first and possibly even using a spotter in some situations you should keep yourself in good shape while you learn. You can have a LOT of fun without breaking anything or modifying anything in that truck. But you'll need to learn its limits by slowly and carefully working your way up to them.
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Aug 9, 2012 00:12
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Someone remind me why Ford killed off the Ranger again? Your truck looks awesome. I've had a soft spot for those things ever since I had a 94-ish (don't remember for sure) 2 wheel drive regular cab. I used to buy split window latches 4 at a time because it was so drat small in there that I'd inevitably break the tab off with my elbow trying to get into the center console if the window was open. This happened monthly. It also had the goofy 8 plug 4 cylinder in it, which was such a turd that I'd have to turn off the AC so I wouldn't die when merging onto a highway. Railroad tracks unloaded at speed were terrifying with the short wheelbase.
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Aug 29, 2012 15:25
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trouser chili posted:I thought that was what the rust was for. Nature's Loctite
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Aug 29, 2012 20:09
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Ozmiander posted:In a regular cab with 2wd and the m5od trans, they moved just fine. Granted, my ranger weighed about 2350lbs... That was my setup, but not my recollection in regards to moving just fine. I still loved the hell out of that truck and wish I never sold it. Maybe I was spoiled by driving a '74 F250 with a 390 in it. Goddam bare bones, but enough torque to pull a house off its foundation.....at 8 MPG....with your fuel gauge being how much sloshing you hear in the tank behind the bench seat in the cab. I'm sure that was totally safe.
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Aug 30, 2012 05:38
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soy posted:I think I would prefer something like a land rover Consider this an invitation to join our support group. I hope you have a garage and tools. (it's totally worth it)
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Aug 31, 2012 03:04
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soy posted:I also prefer the body vehicles over pickups. I think a 300tdi would be optimal at this point, although I'm guessing these are difficult to find and somewhat expensive. I'll have to read more about them. Unfortunately you'll not get one at all being in CA. They were never federalized, so there aren't any legal ones in the country. Conversions are done by shipping in 300 TDIs, transmissions, and pedal clusters as "tractor parts" (to get through customs) putting them into Discos or whatever and re-registering them as a diesel in a state that doesn't pay too much attention that that kind of thing. No way you'll get one registered in CA. I'm pretty sure I could get away with it in PA, but it's not worth the risk for me to even try. Definitely nothing '97 or newer (as your OBDII won't work after the swap). Also, as someone who has driven a 300tdi let me explain why they never bothered bringing them to the US: they are anemic on the highway. Fantastic torque curve for off road (I mean....of course...diesel) but LRs were brought over a luxury vehicles and the v8 is simply a much nicer motor on the road. Their target market was never us vultures who are buying formerly $60,000 vehicles for $4000 to flog them off road in accordance with what they were really built for.
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Aug 31, 2012 16:53
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Geared Hub posted:My boss has a Defender TDI 110 in the parking lot at my office. I'm guessing it's an early model. 1980's era, I know it's not a mid 90's NA version. Yeah, that's the other way to get it that I should have mentioned: if it's 25 years old or more you can import it regardless. So that leaves out Discos and puts you into Series territory at the moment.
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Aug 31, 2012 18:18
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EightBit posted:What? I find it a bit hard to believe that a Range Rover could be cheaper than a Wrangler, or have a community as large. Especially in the US. Well, they are often cheaper. Wranglers carry a pretty decent premium if you haven't noticed. Parts are less available and sometimes more expensive, but there are plenty of specialty salvage guys to keep them going. He also didn't say that the community was as large, but frankly it's probably larger if you're talking about internet community/information. You have to remember that Landies and Toyotas are the two work horses of Africa/Australia/Western Europe. Most of the landie/overland forums I'm on are quite an international makeup. The brits on there are often invaluable resources, as these are their F150s/SChevy 1500s/what have you. They are dirt cheap for them, and everyone and their brother seems to have one behind a barn or in the back of the driveway for sloppy weather. They are probably more capable than a Wrangler for climbing due to their wheel base, less capable in tight stuff due to their wheel base, so overall about equal with the Disco sucking down a lot more fuel but providing a lot more storage space (which is why they are used as overland vehicles - you'll rarely see a Wrangler in that role because they just aren't big enough). They aren't for everyone, but they sure are cheap, easy to work on (for the most part - some of the Disco 2 electronics are a pain in the rear end), and readily available. Live axles with coils, sufficient power for their size, very good flex right out of the box..... They are ridiculously capable in stock trim, just like a Wrangler. Motronic fucked around with this message at 16:07 on Sep 18, 2012 |
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Sep 18, 2012 16:03
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commissargribb posted:Would it not be more appropriate to compare a Disovery to a Cherokee or Grand Cherokee rather than a Wrangler? It just seems a bit apples and oranges to me. I wasn't the one drawing the initial comparison, but yeah....I'd say that's fair from a general size/wheelbase standpoint. Unfortunately for the Cherokees and Grand Cherokees (sans Quadra Drive II and Up Country package) don't seem to be able to keep up in stock trim in situations where suspension flex matters as they really don't flex well.....especially the back end of the Cherokees, where the wranglers seem (to me at least) to have comparable suspensions to the Disco (we're talking TJs, certainly not CJs). They are also not body on frame (like the Wranglers are), and the Landies have fully boxed frames which may or may not matter to you depending on what you plan on using the truck for and just how badly you intend to overload it or thrash it. So depending on which features you are looking at, choose which comparison works best for you.
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Sep 18, 2012 16:30
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Hashal posted:Unfortunately with the 4runner's factory locker being optional, I'm finding very difficult to find them with it. I believe it was standard with the "Limited" package, so that might help your search. Hashal posted:What's the difference between the Cherokee and Grand Cherokee other than interior trim? I wouldn't mind a nicer interior as I'll be DDing it, but if it's going to cause me to sacrifice ability I'll pass it up. There are a LOT of differences, starting with leaf springs in the back of the Cherokee, no availability of an 8 cylinder, and I don't think the Cherokee was ever offered with QDII). They aren't even built on the same platform. They are quite distinctly different vehicles.
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Sep 18, 2012 18:43
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Hashal posted:I'm also finding it a lot easier to find lower mileage Cherokees compared to the 4runners. Can anyone throw a ballpark price for adding a locker to a '99 Cherokee? An ARB air locker is like $900 not counting installation or a pump/tank/however you want to operate it. I'd say you're easily looking at $1500 for a selectable locker. I would strongly recommend against a mechanical type locker on a DD. Well....on anything other than a drag car really.
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Sep 18, 2012 19:56
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jonathan posted:The 98 cherokee is pretty much identical as long as it has the 8.25" rear end (you can tell by looking at the diff cover). You can install an aussie locker into the rear which will make it very capable as well. I've ran them in some different vehicles and they worked very well both on and off road. Are aussie lockers that much better than Detroits? Because Detroits add a pretty terrifying handling "quirk" unless you know what you're doing. Letting someone else drive your truck is pretty much right out unless they know what's up. Just doesn't seem like a reasonable daily driver type of thing, especially if you ever see snow/ice on tarmac or even just wet and slippery roads. Not to mention the fact that unless your climb is straight you're screwed. There is a tight corner on a steep incline in one of the spots I hunt. The guy with the Detroit locker can't make it up in the rain. He's fine, right until he hits that turn and it unlocks.
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Sep 18, 2012 22:41
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EightBit posted:Do lunchbox lockers cause that kind of handling problem when they're in the front axle of a part-time 4wd system, like a Wrangler? If the hubs are unlocked the axles are disconnected so there's no way for anything going on in there to matter. If the hubs are locked but the transfer case is in 2 wheel drive there's no power going to the diff to cause the locker to actuate (at least in the case of a Detroit....I can't comment on other styles).
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Sep 18, 2012 23:41
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EightBit posted:This would be a TJ, so the hubs don't unlock, ever. Oh yeah...the post-CJ cost cutting. I forgot about that. Either way, if a Detroit isn't being powered, it doesn't lock so it should be fine. While you're up there you might as well try to get some (un)lockable hubs for when you eventually break something up there with a locker. I'm not being snarky here.....it's gonna happen, and if you can unlock your hubs you get to drive home rather than fix it on the trail.
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Sep 18, 2012 23:52
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kastein posted:Agreed, except I say spend your $900 on 14 pairs of spare axleshafts+unit bearings and some tools and learn to change the shafts yourself instead of spending it on a locking hub kit Valid point. But that's up to you and whether you are a trail mechanic or not. Not everyone is. kastein posted:Maybe it is a detroit truetrac or posi differential rather than an autolocker? It's quite assuredly an autolocker. I can HEAR it clunk back to locked as he straightens out on the road, same as the one I had in the back of my '74 F250. I'm sure you could momentum your way on through it if you were good enough and familiar enough with the turn/hill....but my point remains the same: they are no replacement for a selectable locker because of exactly things like that. They are a great budget option and beat the hell out of no locker at all, but if you can afford the extra cash and truly need a locker get one that's selectable. I'm not sure I've every spoken with anyone who's had both and would disagree with that sentiment. But in reality, this all comes down to budgets and expectations.
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Sep 19, 2012 01:44
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murphle posted:On dry roads and trails an autolocker (Aussie, Detroit, Lock-right etc) rarely does anything surprising. We don't disagree at all on that point. I'm talking about using a normal level of acceleration in a corner in wet, snowy or icy conditions. In no universe is it a normal driving dynamic to "reverse understeer" out of a corner. I consider that kind of thing (along with wandering pig syndrome in trucks that were lifted too far without correcting the caster angle) pretty horrible and unsafe road manners.
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Sep 19, 2012 03:12
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murphle posted:I don't follow, what do you mean by "reverse understeer"? Because my truck just wants to throw the rear end out if you stand on the go pedal through a corner, i.e. oversteer. Applying power locks the diff, and it behaves like a spool. Normally I would just coast through tight corners if that much slippage is going to be an issue. Trying to get on and off the gas repeatedly through a slippery corner would cause weird behavior, but who drives like that? I'm talking about the front end going in the opposite direction of understeer. For example, making a right turn from a stop....you roll on the noisy pedal and start going. Locker unlocks, and now your right rear wheel is the only thing pushing you. Apply too much throttle (which isn't too much without a locker) and you tend to shove the front end OUT of your corner. I totally get that with more throttle than that you'll oversteer, but it was that inbetween that really pissed me off with the detroit in slipper conditions. Possibly this bad behaviour was exacerbated by my tires, which sucked on wet tarmac and snow (35" Swamper TSL SXes). Yes, this was back in my days of thinking the best way to tackle obstacles was by brute force and size. I was young and stupid. Now I'm just slightly less stupid.
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Sep 19, 2012 15:40
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EightBit posted:An open differential turns both tires with the same torque at all times, so if they both have grip they are both pushing. It's simple physics, don't keep spreading that misbelief about differentials. Call it what you like, it's "not proper road behaviour" in my book. You explanation makes sense, but I wasn't trying to dissect the physics of things, just explain the effects of what happens in the real world with that setup. It was not happening with the factory LSD and it was extremely pronounced after the Detroit went in.
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Sep 20, 2012 01:00
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Bobby_Wokkerfella posted:To be honest, I see the though process, but I'm sure that the best car/4x4 is not a "piece of poo poo" range rover with possibly some big underlying problems (owner has done a gas conversion, rebuilt the motor and put accessories on it and now wants to sell at a low price?) I'm just saying you can find a decent cruiser/patrol/hilux/any japanese 4wd for under 5k and the end result will be a lot easier and cheaper than with a already failing range rover. General_Failure: you now have this same answer from at least one person other than me. Cheap is not cheap. Cheap is expensive. Find something well sorted to begin with.
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Nov 18, 2012 16:19
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ColonelJohnMatrix posted:While these are r/c trucks, I feel this is the most appropriate thread since it's all wheeling. No, the most appropriate thread would be the R/C car thread.
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Nov 19, 2012 19:44
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Colonel K posted:I'm looking for a little help and advice with regards to a future project. If you trans is good just use it. It's vacuum operated so it's not going to need a TCU paired to a BECM paired to an ECU to work (like D2s and later). Get a bell housing adapter and use the ecu from the motor you put in. http://www.marks4wd.com/bell-housing-adaptors/land-rover/range-rover/chevy-v6-v8-to-range-rover-automatic-transmissions.html Sure, you can go the 4.6 route, but you'd be foolish to do that with an actual 4.6 block. You'd be looking at a 2.9 or 4.0 built block (before they started making them out of cheese) with 4.0/4.6 heads (same thing) and 4.6 internals with a good cam. You'd then need your front cover and figure out where/how the crank position sensor is on yours. I can tell you that a 4.0/4.6 block out of a D2 is going to be in the wrong place, but maybe a 4.0/3.9 out of a D1 would work. Or is your old enough that you don't have a crank position sensor but points in the dizzy? If so, you don't need to worry about that part. So basically what I'm saying is put a drat SBC in it and be happy.
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Dec 19, 2012 21:11
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