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Coitus_Interruptus posted:Also likely and probably my favorite theory is that the vehicle was named after a magical comics character named the "Jeep"  Its carpet was long ago replaced with Herculiner. For some reason I didn't have the Hi-Jack attached to the front in this shot. Also a hobo recently stole my CB antenna  Also neglected in the list of Jeeps was one of the most forgettable if not for its motto. 
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Feb 20, 2008 09:05
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White Van Raceah posted:Anyone have a higher rez shot of that ad?
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Feb 20, 2008 17:07
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gravypig posted:Here are a few pics from my brothers last wheeling trip. He went to Crozet in Virginia with some of the guys in the club.
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Mar 4, 2008 01:23
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ZippySLC posted:You can get replacement soft tops from Besttop (who I think is the OEM supplier anyway) that are thicker. I still know of no one better but hate the thought of giving them any money ever again.
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Mar 17, 2008 15:23
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Uh. The Iron Duke was a 4cyl, and was never available in the Cherokee.
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Mar 20, 2008 01:19
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Boomerjinks posted:Any magic tricks for the factory setup or is this just why the supertop sells so well?
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May 24, 2008 19:06
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Legitimate posted:I haven't got carpet (and I don't want it of course). I once rode in a friend's Jeep that had a Herculiner lined body tub. Is this a good idea? Plus I got to drive it from my driveway into my garage like this. Actually, I probably pushed it, but I'd like to think that I drove it for novelty value and maximum safety.
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May 30, 2008 22:16
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The point is that everyone buys Jeeps as the weather gets warmer and sells them as it gets cold.
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Jun 13, 2008 02:34
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:check near the bottom rear of the engine and transmission for oil leaks/drips. if you see drips the rear main needs to be replaced.
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Jul 9, 2008 09:14
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I can't speak for the nicer Bestops, but the Replace-A-Top is absolutely atrocious. Original hardware plus much shittier cloth. I've gone through three in five years with zippers ripping off and getting random tears and holes.
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Jul 16, 2008 03:37
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Any advice on lockers/LSD? I finally have enough money to cover normal off-roading damage to my daily '95 YJ, so I need to go get some new dents. Open diffs seem to be the next obvious thing to tackle. I got stuck spinning my tires after parking with two right tires on a tiny lump of sand in a city alley two days ago and had to slowly dig/rock my way out (even with 4wd enabled before I parked), making my clutch cry in the process Right now I have 30" BFG ATs with stock open diffs (35 rear). Putting anything extra into the apparent ticking timebomb 14-year-old D35 on 30s seems like a waste of money. I'm thinking some kind of mechanical locker on the front may work best so I don't grenade either axle any faster on the asphalt. I don't plan on changing the gearing any time soon since bigger tires would mean a lift and a new axle(s). Would it still be better to just wait for a beefier driveline? Also completely dumb question proving I don't know much about the actual mechanics of the 4wd system: Would a front LSD chatter around corners with 4wd disengaged? I would imagine not, so maybe a front LSD would also be a good option. My main issue is that I am moving into a new place with a garage, so I want to start diving in over my head and breaking things. I guess I can start with the rear main seal. 
ManicJason fucked around with this message at 00:12 on Aug 25, 2008 |
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Aug 25, 2008 00:09
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I found out today that the brake lights on my YJ do not work. It's kind of worrisome wondering how long that was true before another driver told me. The turn signals and hazards work, so it's probably the switch. Hopefully it won't be too much of a bitch. Itch.
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Sep 8, 2008 23:40
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My '95 was marking its territory a bit when I got it at 97k and still does at 140k. It doesn't seem to have gotten any worse.
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Oct 23, 2008 17:08
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I'd love to take my mostly stock YJ whenever. I'm up in Richmond, VA, but the time I've gone without wheeling is getting embarrassing. I've had new 30" BFG A/Ts for almost a full year now without testing them . The local Jeep groups seem to want some kind of donation before they'll even talk about events, so I've never bothered to join.
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Nov 9, 2008 11:28
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I Herculined my YJ six years ago and still love it. It took a solid weekend to do. It's started to ware thin on the corners of the wheel wells, but that's it. It's nice to not have to worry that much about leaving the top down in the rain, although the TJ may be different. I don't remember the exact cost, but it was minimal as long as you do it yourself. I think it took me two days. That stuff sure is fun to wash (re: sand) off your hands.
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Jan 20, 2009 22:06
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Also, it was fun moving the car from outside back into the garage with it looking like this:
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Jan 20, 2009 22:07
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I had no idea what I was doing either. Nothing was difficult at all beyond just being very time-consuming. If I remember correctly, it just required removing the interior, a very thorough cleaning, scraping up all the surfaces with steel wool, coating it with xylene to thin the paint, taping the edges/filling any mounting holes with wads of tape to protect them, then rolling on the Herculiner (the cleaning/xylene/herculiner steps requiring many hours each to soak/dry). It is quite possible that stripping out the interior of a TJ would be much more difficult. Someone else will have to answer that. I'd guess the labor could get pretty expensive. If you're using someone else's garage, you're going to need to be very careful not to spill any Herculiner on the floor. Like I said with getting it on your hands in my other post, that stuff is an absolute bitch to clean up.
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Jan 20, 2009 23:56
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Wamsutta posted:(as of now, there's no wiper arm and the washer fluid shoots straight backwards)
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Mar 19, 2009 15:11
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Jack_Handey posted:Get a 5 speed, even though I've never had a problem with autos in Cherokees, my last one had an AX15 and ...
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May 28, 2009 00:08
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I like how the top is down in those pics even though everything is clearly soaking wet. I'm really bad about leaving the top down in rain since I Herculined mine.
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May 31, 2009 05:20
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Philip J Fry posted:Don't the popo get all up in your poo poo for not having a side mirror? This is technically illegal in Virginia, but zero cops know or care.
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Aug 2, 2009 00:02
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I had a blast delivery driving in the 14 or so inches of snow this weekend in my YJ. I even got to use 4 low to tow out a Civic beached on a snow drift. Going in and out of 4wd so much made me realize that I'm completely ignorant of how the 4wd system works in my '95 YJ, and it's embarrassing. It's always been a little reluctant to go from 4hi back to 2 (idiot light stays on and it is definitely actually staying in 4wd). For some reason it seemed to help to shift into 2wd and then do a double-clutch shift, fully engaging the clutch in neutral between gears. Sometimes that doesn't even work, and I have to mess around with putting the transfer case into neutral and back up to 2wd a couple of times. I'm pretty sure from reading online that the front axle disengages via vacuum. I'm assuming my problem lies therein, but how's the idiot light actually know that the front axle's still engaged? It doesn't make too much sense to me why it gets stuck in 4wd and can't just disengage when stopped, but then happily does so if I get moving and put my transmission in neutral. Is the front driveshaft still powered when the t-case is in 2wd, just with the axle disconnected? Does the vacuum disconnect the hubs or something magical of which I am ignorant in the pumpkin?
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Dec 24, 2009 07:14
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I was almost expecting it to just drive straight up the wall.
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Feb 13, 2010 07:57
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That site is awesome. I need approximately 300 little moulding and body parts for my aging '95 YJ. I thought finding them all was going to be a nightmare. I'm still having a little trouble finding the plastic piece that sits between the soft upper door and the windshield. Mine is cracked so the window pushes it out of place before violently snapping back into place with a deafening pop, scaring the poo poo out of my passenger.
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Feb 24, 2010 01:17
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My YJ's been marking its territory since I got it at 97k. 155k now, and it's about the same.
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Jun 14, 2010 00:54
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When was the last time you took it off-road? That looks like a clear cry for help/suicide attempt.
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Jul 9, 2010 00:10
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My (4.0) YJ's leaking about a quart every two weeks now, so it's finally time to bite the bullet and replace the rear main seal. I found a Jeep shop that will do it for $350, which seems like a pretty good deal compared to what most people get online, and they said they do them all the time, so I imagine it'll be quick. Is anyone who's done it themselves going to try to talk me into doing it myself? I have a garage, but I can't be without my car for more than two or three days because of my job. Should I consider doing the oil pump at the same time? Pressure's fine, but the engine's at 160k.
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Sep 18, 2010 00:20
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My YJ has a very optimistic fuel gauge. When you fill it up it goes way past F and starts sputtering a little just under 1/4 tank indicated.
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Oct 30, 2010 04:36
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Replacing the valve cover gasket on my '95 4.0 has turned into a nightmare. It doesn't make any sense. I was rushing the job a little to try to get my car back for work and ended up taking three tries to get the cover back on with the gasket in place (or so I thought). I really should have taken the time to remove the radiator hoses/thermostat/injector wires/the electronic whatnot the MAP sensor plugs into and really clean the hell out of the mating surface, but, again, I was rushed. The vacuum hose on my fuel pressure regulator was injured in the process, upping the fuel pressure just enough to spring a leak from the hoses out of the fuel tank. Ended up paying someone to do it since you have to basically drop the fuel tank. Their first try failed, so I ended up having to drive a mile back to their shop while dripping gas. Then my oil pressure sender failed spectacularly and decided to dump all my oil. I am afraid how long I was running with no oil pressure, but I'd like to think I caught it pretty quickly. Still can't believe there's no idiot light, just the gauge closer to the passenger than the driver. The valve cover started leaking a bit again, so I figured it just needed retightening (cork gasket). Sure enough, a few of the bolts were loose, but now after retightening it's still dripping a little oil right onto the exhaust manifold, leaving me a nice blue cloud and fire hazard. Did I mention the reason I was rushing through this job was that the car I was borrowing got stolen and totaled?
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Nov 25, 2010 16:52
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I thought the 4.0 didn't have a real oil pressure gauge after '97 or so, just a switch and a simulated gauge.
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Nov 25, 2010 23:03
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The never-ending valve cover saga continues. I put everything back together with the $50 gasket, and there still seems to be a leak in the same spot over the manifolds. This time at least it's slow enough that it isn't smoking on the exhaust. I guess the valve cover's warped. I'm getting very good at valve cover removal.
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Nov 30, 2010 21:47
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ornery owl posted:Has anyone here had to replace an oil pressure switch on a 4.0L? Thank god the 4.0 is basically oil-optional.
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Dec 7, 2010 23:27
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I have a '95 YJ that I've been shamefully driving into the ground as a daily driver for 10 years now. I was finally able to buy a reliable second car, so now I get to figure out exactly how far over my head I want to get fixing up this thing in my extra garage space. It has the 4.0L with 170k miles on it. It got a rebuilt manual transmission four years ago. There's a wobble in the steering and a ton of other little issues that I'd love to start tackling now that it can be a free time project. The worrying problem is that it's been getting some decent piston slap. It's had a tiny bit on cold day startups for 5+ years, but it's gotten noticeably worse in the past year. It still goes away when the engine warms up, but even then you can bring it back pretty loud if you upshift and lug the engine at ~1k RPMs. It's pretty loud even when first starting on 100 degree days. I've never rebuilt an engine, but I'm not afraid of wrenches either and have always done work myself when possible (most complicated being a couple of clutch replacements on friends' cars and rebuilding an ATV transmission). A mechanic buddy of mine was trying to talk me out of doing a rebuild, saying that it would be a waste of time and money and that finding a rebuilt 4.0 is not hard or expensive. He mentioned some kind of factory rebuild program through Chrysler that I had never heard of before. Are there any diagnostics I should be doing before throwing money around? Piston slap is probably going to mean machine work needs to be done, right? Time isn't an issue and I'd gladly spend more money if I was able to do the work myself, get it working, and actually learn about some engine innards. It was a fun city car, but it's time for a retirement to trails in the southwest. 
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Jun 7, 2012 11:23
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Slow is Fast posted:I rebuilt my 4.0. It's a mess. I should have done a remove and replace. 4.0's are cheap. Anyone else have opinions on rebuilding a 4.0? I'm reading all I can from random Jeep forums. I may try to meet up with a local Jeep club.
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Jun 8, 2012 17:39
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Alternatively, should I ignore the piston slap and soldier on with the one I've already got until it dies? I assume any play in there is quickly ending the life of several other components.
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Jun 9, 2012 06:51
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cregets posted:Just bought this today. Got a great deal, BUT it is an automatic. I was a little upset about it at first, but seeing that it will also be a daily driver, at least it will make for an easy city commute. It also has a soft top that I will be putting on, however it was 116 here in Vegas today so I might wait until that subsides. Small world. I just bought a normal person car from that same dealer so I could spend some time working on my '95 YJ. If you need a hand wrenching or want to join a never ending quest to hunt 4.0 leaks and death wobble, let me know.
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Jul 16, 2012 00:09
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Meanwhile my YJ's driver side belt will frequently lock when I lean forward to reach the radio 
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Aug 30, 2012 08:37
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I've posted this old ad in here before, but it never gets old to me.
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Sep 3, 2012 21:50
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I don't understand how every other Jeep has their Hi-Lift uncovered. I learned the hard way that a Hi-Lift exposed to the elements for awhile without being re-oiled will lock in the upright position and refuse to release. I didn't realize it was just a lubrication issue at the time, so I had to have some people help lift the Jeep off of the jack and kick the jack out. Since then, I've had a cover on mine.
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Oct 19, 2013 01:21
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 06:24 |
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My 1995 YJ 4.0 is soiling itself with gasoline after being started up for the first time in weeks in the cold. I checked the fuel pressure since that has caused fuel leaks to appear in the past, and sure enough it's up over 70 psi at idle even with the steady leak at the fuel filter. It's supposed to be just over 30 psi at idle and 38 psi or so with the vacuum line disconnected from the pressure regulator. My first thought was that the return line is plugged, though there's nothing visibly wrong with it and the leak is on the feed line not the return line. There was fuel stabilizer in the tank as well, so even if it were possible for the gas to harden and block the return line, it doesn't seem likely. It seems like my next move should be disconnecting the return line and piping the gas into a container while checking the pressure. If nothing changes, either the regulator or the fuel pump have to be screwy, right? This is all complicated by the Jeep being in a parking lot a few miles from home. The current leak is at the only ear clamp on the entire fuel system, so I can't just move the line back snug. Even if I did that, the leak would likely just move. I should probably get it towed back to my garage before I start disconnecting fuel lines.
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Dec 10, 2013 18:17
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