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Yeah, but if you want it to last for more than a few uses after you fix it, buy these, and throw one or two in, depending on how floppy the ratchet gets. I did this fix over a year ago, and it's still pefect. https://www.mcmaster.com/#98055a095/=14xbqa6
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Nov 6, 2016 20:56
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| # ¿ May 11, 2024 11:22 |
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Video was great, and I subbed to his channel after I watched it. But after returning two of those ratchets after failing to fix them with a few other hacks like this and being a cheapass, and not being able to stomach Snap-On's pricing for flex head ratchets, those shims were the only thing that has worked reliably for the long term.
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Nov 6, 2016 22:57
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spog posted:Wait, is that thing real? It looks cute, but since it takes any full sized sawsall blade, (it just has a shorter stroke than the bigger corded ones) I've absolutely put a 9 inch carbide tipped diablo blade on that specific saw to reach up under a car in a tight space to cut a 5/8ths hardened bolt in half that was seized in a control arm bushing, and it chewed through it with no problem on one battery. I would not be without one. It's been invaluable during home remodeling as well.
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Apr 21, 2018 22:10
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I've got the 5000 lb Quickjack. I had an... interesting experience when I bought it. Some missing parts on delivery, the pump that they sent me didn't work initially, (I found a faulty relay and fixed it the day after I got it.) Customer service sent me all of the missing parts and an additional pump. Need a spare anyone? (They blamed the shipper/that the packaging that the pump and accessories box was ripped for the missing parts) I did a complate rear subframe remove/repair/replace, and clutch job on my E46 M3, and never once had any fear or uncertainty that it was going to collapse or anything, and had WAY more room (as well as peace of mind) than working on maximally extended jackstands. Leaving it on the physical locks instead of the hydraulic cylinders makes it really rock solid. I leave my ramps disconnected from the pump and lines, in the middle of my "toy" car garage space, and drive over them, between the wheels for storage. They are great for lifting lowered/performance cars, and the working height is pretty impressive, if you are like me, and are unable to physically fit a two post lift in the garage space. Moving them around is a bit of a pain, but as others have said, but I'd absolutely buy it again.
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Apr 19, 2019 03:13
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Dacheat posted:I found something that's basically the best carb/throttle body/brake cleaner/degreaser out there. I use it, I like it. I'm fairly comfortable in liberally spraying non chlorinated brake clean around with no PPE, since it's mostly just Acetone. However... Gum Cutter is MUCH worse for you than brake clean, as a caution. It's a mix of Acetone, Toluene and Xylene in equal parts. Toluene and Xylene are not to be taken lightly. I'm personally much more cautious, and actually wear PPE when I use it.
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Jan 7, 2020 15:19
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StormDrain posted:My short review is this, each machine is different. If it works for you, great, (and you must be a much better welder than I) but from my experience, I would say the complete opposite. I can't think of a single person I know who works with sheet metal professionally or personally (automotive bodywork, HVAC tin-knockers, artistic sculptors) who prefer TIG when working with sheet metal. MIG is the industry standard for sheet metal work, unless you are working in some crazy aerospace or something of that ilk. I've got both a dedicated MIG and a TIG machine in my workshop. MIG for sheet metal 100% of the time, (except Stainless) and TIG for thick metal, stainless, copper, high precision, pipe welding, TIG brazing etc MIG's ability to load in .23 wire and easily and quickly fill/tack/weld sheet metal, (especially if you are going to grind it back smooth for future finishing) will take you 10x longer with a tig for no real benefit, but YMMV. People like what they like.
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Mar 30, 2022 18:31
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| # ¿ May 11, 2024 11:22 |
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I own a mini excavator (used, mid 90's Bobcat, 7500lbs or so, kubota diesel) and live in New England, and I could not conceive of using a machine that is an ounce smaller for doing any dirt work in this area. If you are dealing with rocks, stumps, or anything other than sand/loam/whatever, do yourself a huge favor and buy something heavier/more powerful than those Chinese mini excavators. Weight makes a much larger difference in digging power than you might think. I have no doubt they would excel at light landscaping, fitting in tight areas, or very light work in areas of the country that aren't a rockpile like New England, but if I had to do it all over again, having bought a machine that's quite a bit heavier and more powerful than the Chinese gas diggers I would scrape together another few bucks and get something bigger. I am constantly up against the limits of what my mini-ex can do, and I'm just a homeowner doing very light clearing, landscaping, ditching, etc. I totally get trying to save money, I had to buy mine in pretty rough shape and fix a few issues on it to swing it on my budget, but the Bobcat (not that I'm sold on that brand, substitute in any major supported manufacturer here) dealer had all of the parts at what I thought was a reasonable price in stock in a few days, including factory sheet metal, and provided support, service manuals, etc. I love a good deal as much as the next car/heavy equipment guy, but with the unsupported by a manufacturer nature of the no-name Chinese excavators, that they appear to be very light but have stronger hydraulic pumps; making them tricky/dangerous for inexperienced operators, and will have a tiny fraction of the re-sale price of anything domestic, I would rather see anyone interested in a machine like this buy a rough looking but otherwise serviceable brand name unit.
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Mar 1, 2024 05:25
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