|
MomJeans420 posted:Is a HF vise decent enough for someone who very rarely needs a vise? I looked on CL for a good deal and a new HF one was cheaper than the heavily used CL ones, plus HF is closer and I don't have to deal with people from CL. I'm pretty much the same use case, I went with a WEN 5" vise. It was $40 and I've been pretty impressed with the quality of it at that price point. I'm not sure it would stand up to heavy duty daily use, but for occasional stuff it's been great.
|
#
¿
Apr 30, 2020 17:04
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 16, 2024 22:28 |
|
|
Wrar posted:Should I get an 8" bench grinder or a 6"? I went with the 8" and haven't regretted it, for what it's worth.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 30, 2020 17:06
|
|
|
Rhyno posted:Menards? It'll be their store brand but their warranty is solid. I don't have a Menard's super close, but Home Depot's Husky brand is my general go to for things like that. I've never needed to use their warranty on sockets, but for other tools (I may or may not have abused in ways they did not intend) getting a replacement was no questions asked, show up, give them the tool, grab one that looks about the same, walk out.
|
|
#
¿
May 4, 2020 17:27
|
|
|
Rather than being productive last week, I decided to troll eBay for vintage Mitutoyo vernier calipers. I did not come away empty handed.  The iGaging digital caliper at the bottom I already had. For the money, I highly recommend it. It seems accurate enough for general purpose use and provides consistent measurements. One word of caution: take the battery out when not using it as it will drain them when turned off. But for $20, you really can't go wrong. The iGaging depth gauge on the left I also just got. I haven't used it much. It does not seem to be the most durable construction, mostly plastic. But it does seem to be accurate and give consistent results. iGaging  Mitutoyo slide caliper  I do wish it had a thumb wheel, but considering one of these new is around $200 and I got this for $40, I won't complain too much. Mitutoyo dial vernier caliper  Also only $40. The slide caliper had some splatters on it, maybe paint?  A little light Scotch Brite action got it off. They were both a little dirty but cleaned up nicely and seem to be in good working order.
|
|
#
¿
May 5, 2020 13:11
|
|
|
cakesmith handyman posted:If you measure the same thing with all of them how do they compare? I had done a rough comparison with each other and could tell they weren't miles apart. I actually just checked them against the width of a ruler: iGaging: 0.4955 in  Mitutoyo vernier calipers: 0.492 in (technically ~ 63/128 in.)  Mitutoyo dial calipers: 0.496 in  I say that's not too bad.
|
|
#
¿
May 5, 2020 14:23
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:Those are old iGauging. The new ones take the CR2032 and don't seem to drain the batteries at all. The HFs and others that take the LR44 button cells all drain crazy fast the on/off button just turns off the display, not the sensor. Thanks! This iGaging does actually take the CR2032 as well. It isn't a terrible drain, but it is enough that if you leave it for a few weeks or so you might find it dead. Maybe I'd just been leaving it turned on by accident or something. Now as force of habit I just pop the battery out when I'm done.
|
|
#
¿
May 5, 2020 21:42
|
|
|
I was on eBay looking at vintage precision measurement tools again (help, I have a problem), when I came across this old Starrett micrometer and pulled the trigger: The listing said they mechanically worked fine. I figured at the cost I really couldn't go wrong and I could probably clean them up a bit. Shortly after buying them the seller contacted me saying while they had worked fine before, they tried loosening a screw on them and it broke but they had another nicer Starrett micrometer they would send me instead if that was OK. I figured for $11 I still couldn't go wrong but kept my expectations in check. I feel like I hit the jackpot on what I received:     They work great and appear to be accurate (maybe I should hunt for some vintage gauge blocks to really verify........).
|
|
#
¿
May 12, 2020 12:08
|
|
|
I found a relatively cheap Last Long Safety Hammer No. 2 on eBay. So nature took its course.   A cheap hammer gave up its handle for it. I haven't put in a pin across as I will likely go for a new handle at some point for a more permanent solution, but I wanted to get a better idea of how it felt and looked. But it is definitely secure enough for the time being. Really the polar opposite of the recent micrometer finds.
|
|
#
¿
May 13, 2020 14:06
|
|
|
NinjaTech posted:I've got the 6ton ones but already used them for pulling my silverado's transmission and reinstalling after the rebuild a couple years ago. Maybe I got ones that aren't bad? If they are covered in the recall I definitely wouldn't trust them.
|
|
#
¿
May 21, 2020 17:25
|
|
|
kastein posted:Mine have lived outside for most of the last ten years (or less depending on which set it is, I own way too many of them) and there's ZERO chance I'll be able to read the stickers. Wonder if they'll take them. Throw the stands through their window from your vehicle as you drive by, that way they can't give them back.
|
|
#
¿
May 22, 2020 13:51
|
|
|
Wrar posted:Project Farm had a video on it last month. I don't remember being too blown away by any of them. I think the Dewalt and Irwin did fine for the money. I definitely don't remember the highest priced ones doing that much better to justify the cost.
|
|
#
¿
May 26, 2020 15:34
|
|
|
Only slightly tool related and only slightly automotive tool related at that, but people seemed to like the vintage calipers I got. So to let everyone know they are now well protected: I built a couple of boxes for them. This was my first attempt at building boxes so they are far from perfect, but I think they came out ok. I used the vinyl leather wrap for speakers / amps as the covering and 1/4" plywood for the structure (wood glue and 18ga x 5/8" brads to hold it together) and a lot of 3M 77 spray adhesive. I did use contact cement for the outside covering for the first box, that worked much better, but I didn't have enough to do the second. The spray adhesive works great on the inside felt lining. First box:   Second box, I had left over materials. Not sure this one turned out quite as well, but a bit more general purpose:   Any how...back to your regularly scheduled automotive tools.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 10, 2020 12:51
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:Those are really nice. Care to detail how you made them? My wife needs an oboe case re-felted, and I've got zero clue how to even approach it. I could, but I don't know how much I'd trust my methods  The basic method I used was pretty similar to how Adam Savage builds his display boxes. Although I think he uses a 22ga brad nailer. The 18ga I used worked fine, just needed to be extra careful with angle. Honestly, I think the box would have been reasonably strong just using wood glue. Basic steps: Used 1/4" plywood (I think some decent looking birch stuff, but that was only because I wasn't sure if I wanted to leave the wood exposed or not) Cut the various sides to size. One mistake I made there that I would do differently, is where the sides are split where it opens. When I did it, I cut the opening in those side pieces before assembling the box. If I did it next time, I would assemble the box first, then use the table saw to cut it open. This Tested video gives a pretty good overview of what he does: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jPAGZpNZrwU After the box was together, I figured out where I wanted stuff to go inside and cut some other pieces of wood to be dividers and holds. A couple are secured with wood glue and brads, but I found the brads really difficult to get lined up right and the wood glue seemed to hold fine on its own, especially for the pieces that ran from one side to another. The felt I put in as separate pieces. I'm not sure if this is the right way at all, but it seemed ok. I cut pieces that matched the footprint of the flat bottom pieces. Where there are those vertical supports sticking up through the middle, I just cut a slit about the size for those to poke through. Then I cut other pieces to cover the vertical bits. I tried to use one piece for each vertical support other than the outside perimeter doing test fits and adjusting until I could get it to completely cover and wrap around all sides. 3M Super 77 worked great for adhering the felt. I sprayed the felt, then stuck on as carefully as I could. For the exterior, I used a knockoff Tolex. I believe they make stuff that is more paper like. This is fairly substantial and more akin to leather. I did the top and bottom each as single pieces. A couple I did with 3m Super 77 to stick it and a couple with contact cement. Contact cement is really the way to go. It had better coverage and instant hold so less bubbles and better control at getting the edges to hold. The little spots at the edges where they pulled up a bit (mostly a problem when I used Super 77 instead of contact cement) I just used some cyanoacrylate glue to keep them together and down. Finish it off with some cheap brass hardware from Amazon for the corners and hinges. For an oboe or anything with a bit more heft that calipers, I'd say maybe beef up the supports you use inside. I'd imagine a little bump and it might just snap off little vertical tabs of 1/4" ply. Honestly, a good way might be if you can find some foam rubber inserts, sculpt to match, then adhere the felt to that, with another piece of foam at the top also covered in felt. That would give it a nice secure hold. Hope that helps!
|
|
#
¿
Jun 10, 2020 16:00
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:Thanks for the info. I'm really not sure how the cases are made internally, but it looks like it's discrete pieces of wood, glued/pinned in place, and then the felt covers all sins. I wasn't sure if you had a trick for using one piece of felt and avoiding edges. It seems like a royal PITA to get everything lined up and glued without gaps or wrinkles. The felt does a pretty good job of hiding mistakes. Even little gaps between the discrete pieces you can kind of massage together. Mostly, I just tried to cut as large a pieces as possible for each contiguous section. Those vertical pieces essentially have a piece of felt as large as their surface area (both flats, top, both skinny sides). I'm sure there are better ways to do it, but it seemed to work ok. There are a couple of spots where I needed to cut little slivers to fill in. But thankfully the felt does a decent job of hiding that, and with the Super 77, once it's dry, it doesn't move anywhere.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 10, 2020 16:28
|
|
|
For my impact I bought a set of Neikos off Amazon and have been happy with them. They have held up well. For non-impact use I bought a fairly large Husky socket set from Home Deport several years ago. Those have also held up just fine. I'm kind of sold on Husky for a lot of that stuff based on my warranty experience with other Husky tools. Even if you abuse the crap out of it and it fails because you were clearly misusing it, just go in, show the service desk at HD the tool and they'll go have you pick out one that looks about the same. I think the longest it has taken is 5-10 minutes, most of that looking for a matching tool.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 22, 2020 15:07
|
|
|
Big Taint posted:Tekton/Neiko/Astro are brands on Amazon that seem like a good price/quality balance to me. I also have loads of HF impact sockets that are invincible. Can confirm. Tekton and Neiko are definitely good for the money. More than enough for the average home gamer.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 24, 2020 17:23
|
|
|
StormDrain posted:I thought people were crazy for liking fancy screwdrivers and now if I have to use a regular one I'm upset. And everyone thinks I'm nuts now. I'm not saying the Wera set I bought last year changed my life completely. But it is definitely a little bit better than it used to be. I also finally found a use for that massive gear puller I got when a local factory was closing and liquidating.  Perfect for popping off stubborn rear drums so you don't have to whack on the hub.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 11, 2020 15:00
|
|
|
angryrobots posted:Yeah, I've needed more for months. They're either out of stock or twice the normal price. While they were a bit more than usual, I did find them in stock at Home Depot. But yeah, a 100 pack I got on Amazon for $15 last year is now $35.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 18, 2020 03:04
|
|
|
Colostomy Bag posted:Any suggestions for a decent impact undriver? Type you hit with a hammer. I got an ARES brand one off Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077D298R7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It has worked well for me. As far as the bits, I suspect any cheaper one you might need to get some better impact bits eventually. But this one has done a perfectly good job of taking out everything I've asked it to.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 22, 2020 16:36
|
|
|
Words cannot describe how happy and excited I am to finally have this: Husky 46 inch and I love it. A total impulse purchase. We only went into HD for bead board but this was 28% off and I have had my eyes on it for a while.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 13, 2020 23:26
|
|
|
Boaz MacPhereson posted:Nice! I've got a Husky box and I really like it. I grabbed the sixty-something inch with the wood top and pegboard because I needed a work surface. If I was going for pure storage I'd pick up something like that one. I think you'll enjoy it. I do really like that wood top one they have. Thankfully, I'm pretty well set for work surfaces. But right now all of my tools are spread to the four corners of the world. Now I embark on the question of tool chest organizers. This one was $200 off and the same price the 36" originally was (which is now $100 off).
|
|
#
¿
Nov 13, 2020 23:39
|
|
|
I got an AstroAI multimeter off Amazon. Looks like it's in the same ballpark as the Extech. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071JL6LLL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It works fine for the occasional stuff I use it for. I did buy a set of probes and new leads for it. Organization stuff arrived for the tool chest:  Socket organizers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FMY5V62/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1  Pliers holders: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07W5KMM68/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1  Wrench holders (I did tried to print some but we got high winds and started losing power so after 2 failed attempts I just ordered some): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XSTV5G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 For miscellaneous stuff: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086JLNFN5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I've been pretty impressed with the quality of all of this for the cost. I'm sure the organization will evolve over time, but it feels really good to have everything in one easily accessible spot and not have to dig for such and such blow molded case or some random tool box.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 18, 2020 22:48
|
|
|
Dacheat posted:New tool box, birthday gift from my family. Replacing my 3 tier craftsman box from about 8 years ago. Nice! It is a good feeling to have everything in one place and easily accessible. I don't want to undersell how good it feels, but if you combine becoming a parent, your wedding day, and the best orgasm you've ever had, you might come close.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 4, 2020 23:22
|
|
|
New tool arrived: I have their 1/2" 20v and love it. It is a beast. But it is either a bit big or overkill for a lot of things. Initial impressions I have of the 3/8" is great size, decent power. I'm sure I will get a lot of use out of this thing going forward.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 23, 2021 15:16
|
|
|
Wasabi the J posted:I remember high school/army dudes flipping over components of their suspension so they were "lowered" by an inch or two in a janky surely-not-safe way A previous owner of my '68 C10 lowered the rear by just taking out the springs completely. Let me tell you, between that and the who knows how old shocks, ride quality was not reassuring.
|
|
#
¿
May 15, 2021 13:57
|
|
|
I finally received these, I can hardly wait to try them out: soldering aid pliers. I feel like these could be the answer I've been looking for. 
|
|
#
¿
Jul 19, 2022 19:32
|
|
|
I had a revelation this last week and figured others might be curious about it as well. I bought into DeWalt's 20V system several years ago when I got a 1/2" impact (it's been fantastic) and a 3/8" drill, nothing fancy, 2 speed. I finally figured the drill could go live at our cabin and I would get a new drill. I opted for the DCD996. 3 speed with hammer drill option. When I got it (in March of this year), I could tell the chuck didn't feel as 'robust' as the previous drill. Last week, the chuck pooped the bed.  Note, I wasn't abusing this thing, I just tightened the chuck down with the same force I always used on my old drill. I went to remove the chuck so I could order a replacement and put it on. Only to find that DeWalt doesn't use any sort of screw to hold their chuck on:  To get the chuck out, you need to remove the gear box from the body of the drill and tap out the shaft from behind.   I stripped the feck out of the nubs (technical term).  It turns out, the shaft itself is threaded, but according to some people, you typically need to apply a torch to break it free, then unscrew it. So either way, you have to disassemble the drill to remove it first.  I was able to find a replacement with shaft on eBay. To install it, it seriously just gets tapped back into the gear box body with a hammer. For a little research I looked at every other manufacturer's drills to see how the chucks were held on. Every single one, Milwaukee, Rigid, Ryobi, etc., all had a screw at the bottom of the chuck you could remove. So take this as you will, it might mean nothing at all or it might be a deal breaker if you don't want to have to disassemble your drill to replace a chuck. I will say, other than the completely different methodology for holding the chuck on, everything in the DeWalt was solid. The chuck has some plastic bits, but they aren't bearing any sort of load, just protective bits, that aren't visible when installed. All of the gears and carriers were metal.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 2, 2022 23:13
|
|
|
CloFan posted:Funny timing. I had to drill four holes in a concrete slab last weekend, and didn't own a hammer drill. I wanted to get the 20v but nowhere in town had it in stock, so I bought the dewalt 7amp version for a hundred bucks. It stopped hammering after 1 and a half holes, the chuck had started to separate from the body. Took it back to the hardware store and they were perplexed it didn't have that screw, and almost didn't want to take it back because it "wasn't heavy-duty enough for the job" I've used the hammer drill function a couple times. For light duty stuff it seems to work ok, but if I had to do more than a little bit or through anything tougher than cinder block, renting or buying a dedicated heavy duty hammer drill would be the way to go.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 3, 2022 13:22
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:I don't understand? Are you lap splicing fat wires? I would, at the minimum, hook splice, or even better, Western Union those. It removes the need for fancy pliers to hold the wires. It's also way more secure, both electrically and mechanically. I'm not soldering them at all, just demoing how the tool functions with a couple bits of scrap wire.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 3, 2022 13:23
|
|
|
Hadlock posted:I've always wondered if you could just make your own with a used 42" sheet metal brake and then buy the drawer slides and drawer pulls. Really time consuming but sheet metal is basically free, sheet metal boxes are dead simple to construct and you can resell the brake for close to what you paid for it. Those massive snap-on tool boxes seem like a really efficient way to go multiple $10,000s in debt pretty much instantly. Drug dealer seems like an apt comparison You know what's far cheaper than a used metal break? A brand new 52" stacked rolling tool chest from Home Depot. Those even come with a warranty. Hell, the prices I see on used metal brand on CL in my area a new MAC Tools tool chest might even be cheaper. You doing need to spend thousands on a tool chest to get a half way decent one. Unless your aim is too impress other people, then I can't help you.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 7, 2023 13:02
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 16, 2024 22:28 |
|
|
fins posted:One of the downsides of living in the Caribbean is there is nowhere like this, not even close. A couple of years ago I needed some M8 hex head bolts. No biggie, go to the hardware store. No dice, they are all out. Next one is also out. And the 3rd one. And the speciality marine store. And that's all of em! Apparently someone also had a project with M8 bolts too, bought out what was on the shelf, everywhere . Due to some incredibly dumb stocking practices It took ~7 months for M8 hex head's to be back on the shelf. I live in the continental US in a relatively rural place. Oddly, even for me sometimes M8s are hard to find. I really should just buy a big assortment of metric to keep on hand (along with my copper crush washers, O rings, circ clips, cotter pings, etc). Wandering through Home Depot the other day to pick up trim I spotted this.  I'm not ready to drop $200 on that, but I already have the batteries and there are times when something like that would come in so handy.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 27, 2023 13:28
|
|