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No idea but this guy may have an idea or two https://youtu.be/tZkb_gTQgCU E: There's a reference in this video to someone else's video with potentially better info but I didn't have time to go down that rabbit hole. deimos fucked around with this message at 06:10 on Jun 18, 2023 |
# ¿ Jun 18, 2023 05:58 |
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 12:56 |
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I’ve always worried about those and thought about buying one to modify into a moulding plane or something. I hate they use good and scarce rosewood for them. From the video the wood looks cross grained so not sure it's actual rosewood. Rex also got some scratches on the sole from planing which seems odd for a relatively hard wood considering IIRC the hardest wood he tested on was Sapelli.
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# ¿ Jun 18, 2023 14:44 |
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I have barely enough space for a 36" cabinet saw, money being no object, would a Hammer K3 Winner in a special 48x31 (48" slider) configuration be better idea? No outrigger but taking the miter bar out the thing would be very compact. And from all I have read these things are insanely good quality. poo poo gotta be mobile so that I can stash the car in the
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# ¿ Jun 20, 2023 06:45 |
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HolHorsejob posted:I just picked up a ryobi JP-155 6" benchtop jointer for $100 off Craigslist. Anyone have experience with this jointer? The cursory info I've found is that there's no mechanism to adjust for keeping the infeed & out feed coplanar. The test cut was nice and flat, at least. You shim those.
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# ¿ Jun 21, 2023 03:34 |
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Make six tiny jigs that will help you locate a drill.
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# ¿ Jun 28, 2023 14:08 |
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Wallet posted:I think you can probably fit every domino dot position on a single jig and then just use a nail set or a center punch (one of the spring loaded ones would make quick work of it I imagine) to create the detents. You can definitely do less than 6, but usually the layouts look better if you use a set of different ones, for example 1, 2, 3 and 5 can use the same, maybe even 4, but 6 you'd want to do slightly different depending on the size of the domino. Having different ones is also better for workflow, prevents accidentally making more divots than necessary. For something one off like this maybe do one jig and progressively drill more holes, 2, 3, 5, <fill the middle hole to prevent derps>, 4, 6. That way the workflow is always "do all the holes in the jig".
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# ¿ Jun 28, 2023 17:30 |
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Just treated myself to a grand in dubuque clamps. Hobby is still cheaper than a cocaine addiction.
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# ¿ Jul 2, 2023 17:09 |
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His Divine Shadow posted:Which is 1/3 each of: Pine tar, linseed oil, turpentine. Works real well, though takes time to dry! Whats the sun/humidity like in your area? Trying to figure out if this would be a good idea down here because it looks awesome.
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# ¿ Jul 3, 2023 14:57 |
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HolHorsejob posted:I'm thinking of doing a dumb thing and selling my lovely table saw and getting a cast iron saw. Squareness and parallelism can be adjusted on all tables you'd want to buy used. Spindle runout (blade wobble) cannot. deimos fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Jul 3, 2023 |
# ¿ Jul 3, 2023 20:32 |
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Mr. Mambold posted:
Gotta remember anyone can buy these and the people selling them are sometimes not honest or just plain dumb. I went to buy a cabinet saw, guy said it was working perfectly, I said "great, I want to cut with it when I go see it". Brought a 36" planed and jointed 1 3/4" sapelli offcut I had and had my best rip blade (I know how the blade behaves on my lovely saw, so I figured I'd be able to get a feel for power or weirdness on a better motor) in the car just in case, struggled way too much with the blade the guy had and the cut looked very wide, I didn't think to bring my dial indicator jig, so I used a combination square to roughly check blade wobble and it was a bit crazy, close to 1/64th. Asked the guy and he said there's never been any issue, tried with my blade... Same result. So either it's always been like that and he never bothered to check calibrate or he hosed something (dado stack pinch on hardwood maybe) and was lying. Another used tool story: I recently bought a used G0856 jointer (a grizzly clone of one of the Jet), currently rebuilding it from tearing it apart to give it a thorough cleaning and repainting it. List of issues (some from the factory): - Infeed tables offset roughly 0.018" on one side and 0.015" on the other - fence mounting block was offset about 1/4" above the out feed table, it's supposed to be parallel and coplanar - side effect of the above the fence tightening screw handle had been bent to tighten it so hard so it wouldn't move - carbide cutters had never been flipped - only the first 2" or so of the cutters showed any wear - the tables had wear only in the first 2 inches - the motor mount (sheet metal) had a bit of a twist as if the head had been pinched at some point and the 3hp motor twisted what it could to make the belt slip... The sheet metal lost. - random drips of epoxy all over - chips in the powder coating Same deal, told the guy I wanted to use it, told me it worked perfectly, brought my own scrap wood (I had a decent piece with a nice twist) immediately noticed the lack of use on the first 6 inches of table, brought a decent aluminum straight edge, immediately noticed the poo poo alignment and a bent tightening screw on the out feed table. Told me he'd overtightened it so it'd stay in alignment, asked if I could move it, refused. Got suspicious, the face joint didn't go well, asked to knock $250 off, guy said no, walked away. Guy calls me back that night to accept 250 off, so now I have spent $200 and a poo poo load of elbow grease getting this thing pristine, including making it significantly better about dust ingress to the motor area (I hope) and a better motor mount (1/8th stainless steel flat stock). Took the whole thing apart, cleaned it, epoxy primer and good top coat on everything rust removed everything I could, cosmoline on anything that I can't reach, lanolin based rust proofing on everything I can. Waiting on new nachi bearings (don't need em but since it's already apart might as well). I've taken pictures of most of the process, it's been fun. E: I guess I forgot the moral of the second story: guy was a dingus and had probably been suffering with his purchase of what he thought was a lovely jointer and was buying a new one without needing to and proceeded to attempt to pawn it off on someone unsuspecting without knowing you can just calibrate that poo poo. And so I got a jointer for nearly half off. deimos fucked around with this message at 23:43 on Jul 3, 2023 |
# ¿ Jul 3, 2023 23:14 |
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HolHorsejob posted:Cool, so don't worry about any faults that can be resolved by shimming or futzing with fasteners, just watch out for ones that would require lathe work to resolve. Known blade is optional if you have a dial indicator (if the dial indicator shows wonkiness ask to test a different blade). A combination (machinist may work) square is a quick way to see if the blade/fence is out of square to the miter. If something is off that can be fixed use it to negotiate a lower price (unless it's someone retiring or dying ).
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# ¿ Jul 4, 2023 01:08 |
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Mr. Mambold posted:Story about the jointer is just nuts. Props to knowing how to straighten it out. lovely sheet metal for a 3 HP motor mount does not sound very Grizzly. I've got the granddaddy of that 8" one. Re: Nachi, it's just a reputable brand that's relatively cheap and easy to find, there's a few others. I know I qualified it as lovely sheet metal, but it's probably built to spec (has to be thinner than the motor mount so you don't bend that). I assumed it bent because of a pinch of some sort, maybe it was some other sort of neglect, and I literally just thought about it as I was typing: it could've definitely been over tightening . Either way, it will now have a stainless steel brace. E to add: I also want to clarify that getting the tables coplanar on a jointer is something that should at least be checked on all jointer pretty much unless you get lucky from the factory (or you're buying a really good one). It's not a hard process just tedious and requires a straightedge and some feeler gauges (or a dial indicator and a (can be diy for a jointer) beam. deimos fucked around with this message at 16:31 on Jul 4, 2023 |
# ¿ Jul 4, 2023 16:12 |
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Holy poo poo those are gorgeous.
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# ¿ Jul 4, 2023 20:38 |
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Don't mean to double post but the jointer is starting to look like a jointer again, it's been a month almost exactly since I started taking it apart (had to wait a week for a weekend without rain to paint). Discovered I goofed with the paint job and didn't hit the rabbet edge on the out feed table which had a bunch of chips, I'll never use it so hopefully a single coat will be enough. But gotta wait till tomorrow to do any more work while the paint dries.
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# ¿ Jul 4, 2023 22:39 |
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Shou sugi ban is the best way to make pine not look like pine... It's also a great way to make it twist like a pretzel.
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# ¿ Jul 11, 2023 03:32 |
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I am getting into turning a bit, what's a decent set of hss and/or carbide tools? I want at least my own rough and spindle gouge.
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# ¿ Jul 12, 2023 18:04 |
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That's lower price than the cheaper shop fox fence I think.
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# ¿ Jul 16, 2023 06:20 |
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If anyone has been on the fence about getting a really expensive Tormek T-8, there's a 50th anniversary edition one coming out now ish, comes with a 50 year warranty. Seems neat if you were gonna get one soonish anyway.
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# ¿ Jul 19, 2023 02:13 |
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For woodworking you want to replace the table saw blade with at least two blades (one for cross one for ripping and MAAAAYBE one for sheet goods) because they come with blades that are, at best, mediocre at everything. If you only get one try to go for a "glue line" rip blade which tend to be decent at cross cutting unless you're sure you'll be mostly dealing with sheet goods in which case it's a toss up as to what you want. E to add: combination blades exist but tend to be decent at the different cuts at best. I guess that makes them an option to start with. deimos fucked around with this message at 06:06 on Jul 19, 2023 |
# ¿ Jul 19, 2023 06:03 |
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Hardiebacker doesn't have (e: as many) fibers to shear and less cutters means less heat concentration is my guess. Also maybe less teeth means bigger chunks (less fine dust) removed but that's just a theory. deimos fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Jul 19, 2023 |
# ¿ Jul 19, 2023 16:32 |
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I would maybe go up to 220 or 180, maybe 220 sander then back down to 180 by hand (going with the grain).
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# ¿ Jul 20, 2023 06:38 |
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Just Winging It posted:The 32 mm system is basically the answer to the interior/kitchen cabinetry part of the "how do we rebuild as quickly & efficiently possible?" question posed by the bombed out pile of rubble that was immediate post-WW2 Germany/Western Europe. The consistency is what I like about the system. PDF warning: http://www.cabsystems.com/KISSII/KIIrivDe-mail.pdf That's a good guide as well. deimos fucked around with this message at 01:40 on Jul 22, 2023 |
# ¿ Jul 22, 2023 01:36 |
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Just get a hose adapter, cheap ones on the zon, may be available at local hvac shop. Basically an elbow with a gasket that snap fits in place.
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# ¿ Jul 24, 2023 18:36 |
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:That's what I had tried originally but it drips out of another place on the other side sometimes too. Current plan is a little plastic tray with hose barb and gasket etc. coming off it. I use one that looks like this one: https://a.co/d/dFKHDEK But yeah trays work as well, they are just more cumbersome.
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# ¿ Jul 24, 2023 18:56 |
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I just had a bit of an idea, has anyone here combined ebonized and non-ebonized woods in a panel? I am wondering if the acetate or tannins would bleed between the panels, I may throw something together to try it out.
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# ¿ Jul 25, 2023 02:23 |
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Can also drill/file/scrape some "channels" inside the hole with a small drill bit so the epoxy has a bit more to grab, nothing too drastic, maybe two channels, doesn't need to be too far.
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# ¿ Jul 30, 2023 01:09 |
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Mr. Mambold posted:Aw, hell yeah. That bed rocks.... With how beefy it is? Doubt it. :
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# ¿ Aug 2, 2023 15:28 |
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Baby's first turned object, mallet made out of bullet tree wood (jucare, locally called úcar, not bulletwood):
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# ¿ Aug 4, 2023 06:26 |
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:That looks great. Looks alot like mahogany. Do you know any other names for the wood? I'm having a hard time finding anything on it. The first link is the one. Annoying tree to live nearby because it sheds like crazy and the seed pods stain everything... Which means it has lots of tannic acid so should ebonize nicely. Gonna have my teacher sell me another piece so I can do an ebonized version.
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# ¿ Aug 5, 2023 06:30 |
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Lawnie posted:I want to build a Pikler triangle for my son. It’s a Montessori-style play thing, essentially two ladders leaned against each other for climbing on etc. i could buy one, but they look dead simple and it would be fun to build something for him. Anyone have suggestions on where to look for good plans for building something like this? I know I could draw something sturdy myself, but a reference plan would be nice, too. Found these https://grabcad.com/library/pikler-triangle-cnc-plan-1 https://www.designcraftworkshop.com/products/pikler-triangle I am guessing the rods are glued so they can't spin. It's also unclear how the folding works but probably easy to use inserts and make it knockdown worst case.
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# ¿ Aug 6, 2023 16:10 |
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Second turned thing
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# ¿ Aug 10, 2023 01:50 |
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I suggest miter joints with a reinforcing biscuit in a contrasting material. This or a splined miter if it needs to be extra strong would get my vote.
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# ¿ Aug 18, 2023 05:40 |
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HolHorsejob posted:If it's anything like other machine tools, the castings for 10 different brands all come from the same foundry. However, the casting itself is small contributor to the overall build quality, since it needs to have precision machining done on it, have good components installed, and the final QC needs to be rigorous. All of those cost way more than the casting. The client (grizzly, hf, etc) specs things like motors, fasteners, hardware, bearing tolerances, alignment, QC, etc. Some of the castings have actually been made better when the company that makes grizzly bought them. The DJ20 beds used to crack but grizzly overbuilt the poo poo out of that casting to reinforce some frankly stupidly engineered fracture points.
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# ¿ Aug 31, 2023 01:15 |
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DIY heat pump mini split would be my approach. Probably more expensive than you want but also meant to stay on for long periods of time.
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# ¿ Sep 26, 2023 01:53 |
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It occurred to me to look it up and apparently some portable ACs can also do heat. That's also a possibility since I think I see a window. This is the highest BTU one I could find https://www.midea.com/us/air-condit...eat-map14hs1tbl There are cheaper ones. poo poo, a window unit may also work since you don't really have to worry about constant use efficiency.
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# ¿ Sep 26, 2023 18:37 |
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A cheap set of machinist squares are going to be cheaper than anything woodpeckers and probably more accurate than anything you'll ever need. A three piece set of shinwa stainless steel carpenter squares is cheaper than the 2" woodpeckers square.
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# ¿ Sep 29, 2023 01:21 |
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Only reason I spend a bit extra on knockoffs is because humidity eats everything here, so aluminum/stainless is significantly better.
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# ¿ Sep 29, 2023 19:39 |
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The riving knife will be slightly thinner than (and fully within) the kerf, that's all that matters wrt alignment (you are measuring the blade, not the teeth). That blade alignment is dead nuts tho. However, you need to measure the same spot on the blade to get runout, not sure if you did that. Also: technically a splitter not a riving knife. deimos fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Oct 9, 2023 |
# ¿ Oct 9, 2023 22:03 |
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Get a plywood bit.
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# ¿ Oct 18, 2023 06:14 |
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 12:56 |
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Sockser posted:Plywood bit for 1/4" is only ~5mm so that would swing me too far in the opposite direction, unless I'm missing something Plywood bit should be 6mm and a 1/4 bit should be 6.35. I figured you could use the 8mm ply bit. (8mm ply exists) deimos fucked around with this message at 15:15 on Oct 18, 2023 |
# ¿ Oct 18, 2023 07:24 |