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Danhenge posted:I'm jealous. This is what I was making everything on before  elevation wheel and a rip fence were relatively recent developments, i should probably give it some kind of riving knife too before donating it to a makerspace of people I hate A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 01:56 on Sep 5, 2021 |
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Sep 5, 2021 01:51
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Nemico posted:I have this text book from 1966 that has a couple chapters on radial arms saws and how to use it as a shaper. it looks terrifying tbf that's way less scary than using the actual shapers of the era Fixed one of those up for a co-op a couple years back and within ten minutes of getting it back together it had flung a 6' oak board across the shop like a fuckin javelin, real Frankenstein-style what have I done moment A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Sep 6, 2021 |
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Sep 6, 2021 21:03
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tracecomplete posted:And now I know what a wobble blade is and what the gently caress were old people thinking? NBD if you cut a finger off you can just rub a little mercury and radium in the wound, take double the acute LD50 of old timey amphetamines and you'll be right as rain Stultus Maximus posted:That's not how it's used as a shaper. Ah, so exactly as scary as a midcentury shaper
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Sep 7, 2021 01:04
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Danhenge posted:The radial arm saw was the official saw of the eastern shore or something, there's like a million of them for sale constantly. They fit comfortably in the grand piano/slightly leaky yacht genre of used goods that are theoretically valuable, except that they're such a pain to move and store the owner will probably be pathetically grateful if you offer to take it away for free
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Sep 7, 2021 05:15
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The Wiggly Wizard posted:I'm moving into an old house that needs window screens and I'd like to tackle this project. I would not buy any large shop tools in order to produce a handful of window frames, a workbench, and some Adirondack chairs. If you were planning on making hundreds or thousands of those frames, a table saw would be bar none the best way to get the job done. It's also a huge piece of equipment that costs many times what just buying everything you listed would run and likes to injure people who don't know what they're doing. I'd recommend finding a makerspace or borrowing someone's shop to clear your immediate projects, get some time on the tools with someone who can show you how to use them so you don't have to ask the Internet what does what, and figure out what you actually like doing (and if it's really worth buying your own vs. just asking someone to run off a board on theirs every other year or so and directing the space and money to better causes). By the time you're ready to buy your own tools you'll know what you need and what exactly it does. if you're going to get a table saw, get a Sawstop with all the bells and whistles. It'll cost $5k but it'll be the Best Saw for nonspecific residential-grade whatevers, and the hot dog trick will go over huge at parties. A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 21:37 on Sep 7, 2021 |
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Sep 7, 2021 21:21
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unless dude really likes Tim Burton's whole aesthetic he's probably not gonna love the kind of frames a novice with little to no experience can do on a three-figure bandsaw like, for that matter he could get a really really nice chisel and a mallet and do it all for less than the price of one window frame
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Sep 7, 2021 21:39
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lol fair
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Sep 7, 2021 21:40
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The Wiggly Wizard posted:Maybe for this project I'll pay the lumber yard the cost per cut to rip my boards. ?? https://www.makernexus.com https://www.acemakerspace.org/workshop/ lmao $70 a month for unemployed people https://www.meetup.com/MakersSJ/ https://www.chimeraarts.org/about this one's an hour north of SF but looks fuckin rad A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 22:37 on Sep 7, 2021 |
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Sep 7, 2021 22:35
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I have no idea how makerspaces work in reality, but I love the idea of them as a place to try out different things instead of having to buy it first. The worst one i ever saw was a total nightmare combining that could go wrong with a volunteer-run organization with everything that could go wrong with a nerd-run organization, and still totally worth it. At the hobbyist or even home business level pooling resources so everyone in the neighborhood chips in a few bucks on a space and some decent equipment makes so much more sense than a table saw in every garage (I say as I set up a table saw in my garage), and access to experienced craftspeople working on their own projects and willing to talk shop is an incomparable learning resource for newbies, one that's otherwise real hard to come by unless woodworking is a family trade. imo anyone who doesn't have a full on product line going on should join one A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 05:09 on Sep 8, 2021 |
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Sep 8, 2021 04:56
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Elysium posted:The woodworking makerspacer near me is insanely expensive and has a list of rules longer than my arm that includes things like “no cutting any pine” and “no cutting anything harder than xx on the hardness scale.” Sure, they’re gonna have way more tools than you will be able to acquire as a novice, but for like 6 months membership you can buy yourself a SawStop and have a pretty drat good start. condolences, we have one of those idiotic techbro $300/mo "incubators" out here too but also two other fully stocked shops in town for $25-$50/mo. The tool libraries are good poo poo too, depending on how/if they actually maintain the tools A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 15:52 on Sep 8, 2021 |
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Sep 8, 2021 15:21
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probably find another place to use that 6' fuckin lumberjack saw besides right against the windshield
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Sep 8, 2021 18:55
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Unless you trip and fall face-first into it what side the blade's on only matters inasmuch as you're already really loving up, like there's a statistically meaningful number of cucumber-related injuries every year too from people shoving them up their rear end but that doesn't really mean you've gotta worry that if you keep a cucumber in the house it might find its way into your colon The major hazard of table and circular saws to a someone who uses it the right way around, vs. bandsaws, is that they'll chuck poo poo at you, which you can mitigate but never totally eliminate. the overwhelming majority of people who get hurt by the blades are just shoving a cucumber up their rear end, and there's some very simple things you can do to bring your risk of getting cut by the blade down to bandsaw levels or lower. You're 5x more likely to get injured if you don't have a riving knife on the blade. 3/4 of the injuries from blade contact come from people who were resting their hand on the wood behind it, when, usually, it kicks back. A table saw doesn't just... suck you in during moderately incorrect usage, like a lathe might, you're not getting within 3" of the blade unless you reach over it or directly just shove your drat hand into it. The latter is also how people hurt themselves on bandsaws, far more frequently since a standard bandsaw doesn't give you all the tools you need to manipulate the stock while keeping yourself a good distance from the blade, but usually a bandsaw nip won't put you in the ER. A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 15:48 on Sep 11, 2021 |
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Sep 11, 2021 15:31
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the average age being 55+ also makes a lot of sense lol
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Sep 11, 2021 16:21
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yeah bandsaw injuries are way way lower; I'd presume because most that do happen are basically a nasty scratch and go unreported. I know I've walked off a few, as have most I've worked with imo you're way less likely to come in contact with the blade on a table saw if you apply minimal common sense, but if you do cut yourself it's gonna be bad A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 17:38 on Sep 11, 2021 |
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Sep 11, 2021 17:22
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Personally I'd hold out for one with the riser block kit, none of those other upgrades matter all that much in comparison, but yeah it's an OK price for one that's clearly been well cared for
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Sep 12, 2021 16:13
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tracecomplete posted:So F360 doesn't have a real hobbyist plan, Solidworks is scary as heck, and FreeCAD apparently can't do parametric modeling in inches. It decides that ceil(28.75in + 1in) is "28.78 in", because their modeling engine is silly. if you can't get used to Solidworks then I'm p sure Rhino/Grasshopper is your other good option right now, but I'd recommend you just get used to SW. F360 is a disaster to actually get anything useful out of and I wouldn't use it if someone paid me to; which, incidentally, they aren't. I end up just using qCAD nearly every time I don't need gcode because it's so much simpler to just throw together a sketch, get some dimensions, and get on with my day but that's not really an option for parametric modeling
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Sep 13, 2021 15:15
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Stultus Maximus posted:I remember doing a science fair project like this... Potassium dichromate and stannous chloride are the big ones that appear a lot in older books, but even back in the 70s they'd tell you that stuff'll kill you (they just used it anyway, for Authenticity). You can still get them and all the other freaky poo poo like people used to treat wood with (like arsenic) from a chemical supply house if you really want to, but perhaps consider not getting that poo poo all over you just to make a chair pretty A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 17:02 on Sep 14, 2021 |
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Sep 14, 2021 16:58
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how do people even live in CA
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Sep 14, 2021 19:17
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I can't actually find anything published by the state of California directly saying no more DA, just people passing around various rumors about it. Willing to believe that in an effort to conserve paper/electrons California has stopped publishing new regulations, and citizens are simply supposed to intuit them as they are passed
A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 22:23 on Sep 14, 2021 |
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Sep 14, 2021 22:13
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Jhet posted:Would you want to put a $4000 speaker on something that wasn't absolutely going to hold it up without even coming close to failing? I know I wouldn't. Audiophiles are super particular too for many reasons and I am happy to listen to just about anything on their systems. The real trick is installing it properly onto the wall at that point. You'd have a point if they weren't just screwing the thing into the wall lmao what's the weight rating on a couple drywall screws more-or-less sunk into a 2x4 four inches apart A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Sep 15, 2021 |
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Sep 15, 2021 19:46
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Enderzero posted:Lumber crash leads to 'blowout' sales as prices crater - https://www.cbc.ca/news/business/lumber-prices-1.6177016 2x4s are down more or less in Baltimore (not $3 though lmao), processed stuff like plywood certainly isn't. I was looking at getting a couple pieces just a couple days ago and places still wanted $80 for a 4'x8'x1/2" sheet of box store grade junk
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Sep 16, 2021 17:39
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signalnoise posted:I have a feeling that this is either a very simple question or a complicated one. When dealing with plywood, should I care much about the "grain" of the ply? I have a gut feeling that you shouldn't drill into the sides of plywood or something, but I really have no reasoning for this, and I couldn't articulate why I feel this way. I see youtubey people using it all over the place for pretty much anything that isn't some kind of a display piece though, so I also get the feeling people treat plywood as just like, a strong sheet of wood that you can do whatever with. I keep being surprised by the strength of wood products so I feel like there's something wrong in my brain about this but I don't know what it is. Please educate yeah it's kinda complicated. The plys reinforce each other, so like the butt-end plys contribute a lot more to the strength of whatever you're doing to the edge than they would on a regular butt joint of an equivalent thickness of poplar or yellow pine or whatever, you can safely hang stuff further out on a sheet of plywood, etc. But it's still usually <1" of kinda crappy wood and like Kaiser Schnitzel says it's all kinda inconsistent and squirrelly unless you're dealing in industrial quantities of stock from the same manufacturer. In general I'd do what I can to put any load on the face of the sheet rather than the edge, use dado joints over edge screws, etc., but I'm usually making something I can take my time on and would be injuring myself with if it failed, not viral Youtube DIY lifehacks. A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 20:25 on Sep 17, 2021 |
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Sep 17, 2021 20:13
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meatpimp posted:I could not be happier with either this wood, or the way the legs turned out. Not only is is spalted, but also partially curly. It's going to look incredible finished. I mean, if you wanna go sophisticated, you got options, but dowels work too. Get some nice padauk or walnut ones and make it a feature of the piece.
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Sep 30, 2021 23:21
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OPAONI posted:I agree. The varnish is able to come off with the rough side of a dish sponge. I'm guessing that some sandpaper and a varnish of my choice would work. I'm assuming that I need to get those windows open for ventilation purposes while I paint. Should I get a heavier duty mask or will the same kind I use for shopping do? Wouldn't count on a hospital mask accomplishing all that much but a tabletop's worth of VOCs won't kill you. If you're planning on doing further projects it'd be worth getting a respirator, if not just ventilate the room well and stay out of it while the thing cures.
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Oct 8, 2021 17:44
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Having used a bunch of different "traditional" formulations and Stickley-branded nonsense for years I recently found that this stuff is an exact match for a lot of antique arts-and-crafts style oak. Put a coat or two on depending how absorbent the board is, slap on some waterlox, call it a day
A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Oct 11, 2021 |
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Oct 11, 2021 02:52
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I'd be sure to count the fingers on the guy selling it at the very least
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Oct 11, 2021 03:20
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Then all those nooks and crannies can be full of molasses instead!
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Oct 13, 2021 06:41
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:1 or 2. My understanding is that 3 is weaker than the others, in exchange for better water resistance. I use 2 for practically everything these days, because I'm lazy. Titebond claims that 3 is the strongest but tbh on a joint strong enough for those figures to matter everything around the glue is going to fail before it does. The only real advantages to 2 are it sets up quicker and flows better for fixing cracks and stuff, it's totally fine to use but if you're making non-industrial quantities of stuff I'd just buy a bunch of 3.
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Oct 13, 2021 17:35
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Thanks for the added info! I am pretty sure the 150F overnight is that the cured glue bond is heated for that long and then tested to represent the glue's performance at higher temps, or at least I think that's what I think their tech guy told me. Not something most woodworkers ever worry about, but it is possibly of concern for places that manufacture veneer work that might sit in the back of a tractor trailer in Arizona for a week or exterior doors etc. it's relevant if you're making stuff that'll see use in a kitchen. I've had a fair few cutting boards just fall apart after using them as trivets, which probably bodes poorly for those inlaid ones I was making a while back lol
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Oct 13, 2021 19:25
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How long does it take for resins like titebond to degrade, I wonder? Hide glue definitely just turns to dust after a few decades due to whatever combination of moisture and oxidation, which is usually NBD with nice antique furniture because it's got a solid mechanical joint holding the whole thing together anyway, but I gotta wonder what modern resin-and-plywood-based stuff is gonna look like in another 50, 100 years
A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 21:24 on Oct 13, 2021 |
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Oct 13, 2021 21:05
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that's how I do it yeah mostly only make zero clearance inserts for various dado blade widths though so lol what riving knife
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Oct 13, 2021 23:56
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Just get some vaguely similar stock and do a couple practice runs, there's not a lot of complex steps involved in beveling an edge that an instruction video is gonna be able to fill you in on, you just need to get a feel for how it's gonna try to run away from you
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Oct 15, 2021 22:56
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Worth a try, everything they did is doable in a garage workshop Doubt it's really getting you woodsteel but at least it seems less bullshit than those "transparent wood" articles going around a few months back where the actual process was you replace the wood with vinyl and market it as green A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 16:43 on Oct 22, 2021 |
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Oct 22, 2021 16:40
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Serenade posted:Is a wood threading tool as useful as I think it is? bolts exist so no they're a big hassle to make properly and drat near every used wood-screw clamp/vise I've ever seen has huge chunks of threading missing, because they innately involve putting all the force on some little cross-grain threads that want nothing more than to just strip off. They stick if the wood swells, or if you put anything on the wood to stop it from swelling. As joinery they'd be impossible to remove and serve all the same mechanical and aesthetic function as a dowel for 20x the labor. They look neat on antique workbenches but there's a dozen better ways to do whatever you're doing unless you're mass-producing knockoff antique workbenches. A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Oct 25, 2021 |
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Oct 25, 2021 22:49
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Serenade posted:That's the sort of answer I needed. It's fun to imagine being able to make all those things with your own tools, but not if the end result.... sucks. yeah they're cool and I'm a little salty about it myself cause I had the same thought but looking into it there's a reason functional wood screws are hundreds of bucks and threaded rod is like $.12/ft
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Oct 26, 2021 00:34
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I was looking at SawStop saws because maybe the motor on my Unisaw is fried or about to be fried so I'm window shopping and dreaming of new saws, and I notice they have different brake cartridges for using a dado stack vs. regular blade. Youtube made swapping between the two seem about as as quick and simple as removing a riving knife-is that actually the case? Will the saw still run if you do swap to a dado but don't swap to the dado cartridge? yeah the brake's held in by a little latch and some pins it slides in on, it's all like half a foot deeper into the guts of the saw so it takes a little fiddling but once you've got the hang of it it's very simple. The saw won't start if the gap between blade and brake isn't roughly the right size, you can temporarily disable the sensors if you really need to (for cutting aluminum and stuff) but honestly it's about as much of a hassle as just changing the brake
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Oct 26, 2021 21:59
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Bloody posted:Easier to shorten it later than to tallen it that's why God made cinderblocks
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Nov 2, 2021 20:01
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If you want that cut to be even vaguely accurate or join up to anything you most certainly aren't "just grabbing a hand saw and going at it" If you just want to take the corner off a 2x4 sure go ahead and grab your whittlin' knife
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Nov 7, 2021 16:41
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Elem7 posted:Seems like the sort of thing you could knock out very quickly sneaking up on it with a bandsaw then cleaning up on a bench sander or with a plane. This'd probably work better for a one-off where you don't have any jigs or anything yeah. Table saw's strengths really lie in production work where you're going to be doing the same cut 30 times so a little setup time pays off in being able get exactly what you want consistently in one pass. Either would work fine tho A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Nov 8, 2021 |
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Nov 8, 2021 00:14
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Stultus Maximus posted:The internet has suggested pouring boiling water on and bending it back and forth whoever told you this was loving with you You can hammer it straight without too much difficulty, just stay away from the teeth. Ideally sandwich it between two steel bars covering the length of the twist and set behind the gullet and pound on that. Anything you do to cold-work the metal will harden it and increase the chance of breakage, so there's a limit to how much loving around you can do, but sawblade steel has to be pretty resilient to do its job - it's also quite springy tho and can be a pain in the rear end to get it back to 100%. Plenty easy to get it good enough for the lovely makerspace-grade bandsaw blades I generally gently caress up doing dumb poo poo, though A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 02:44 on Nov 8, 2021 |
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Nov 8, 2021 02:26
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