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Spazz posted:Can anybody let me know if they think I can handle wood turning? I might pick up a Nova Comet II (or go big with a JET 1221VS), People in one of the local clubs built lathe stands with tilting tops for use sitting down. So I believe you can do woodturning with a bad back. I owned a Comet 2. Given those 2 choices I would buy the Jet, but I would suggest you look at the Delta Midi unless you really need a little extra length.
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Feb 6, 2017 19:36
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I did a safety test on my Delta saw by keeping my fingers out of the path of the blade and not cutting wet lumber so there is no kick back and it passed with flying colors. 15+ years. Turns out that table saws are safe, it's people who are unsafe.
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Feb 7, 2017 03:20
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GEMorris posted:I'm sure every guy captured in that study I linked thought they were a-ok #1 safety experts right up until the moment they lost a finger. I bet they were super confident about their years of experience. Maybe, confidence born in ignorance, just like fear can be born in ignorance. One safety rule you should remember whether it's a table or band saw, don't put anything inline with the blade you want in one piece.
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Feb 7, 2017 04:10
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:And guns are perfectly safe as long as you don't point them at anything you don't mean to kill. Your argument is facetious; yes of course tablesaws are possible to use safely, ... So I'm right, but I'm not being serious? You don't want too disagree just discredit my motives.That's very passive aggressive. Let me assure you that I am serious and mean it when I say saws can be used safely. Fear mongering is not productive, education is.
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Feb 7, 2017 04:24
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GEMorris posted:Sure, but that changes nothing about the inherent risk of the tool and the measurable results in quantity of accidents. And don't pretend that injury is not a result of user error or lack of education on how to use the machine.
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Feb 7, 2017 04:25
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:You're right, but it read, to me, as you trying to downplay the seriousness of tablesaw injuries. I wouldn't want to discourage anyone from using a tablesaw, assuming they know how to use one safely. But it's easy to get into the hobby without realizing the inherent dangers of the tools, especially the tablesaw. Much like it's depressingly easy to get a gun without undergoing gun safety training. Nobody should be doing that, but it's a fact of life and we should be doing what we can to rectify it, by encouraging people to either get the training or not get the saw. I don't know how to express casual seriousness in words without sounding angry or smarmy or otherwise having the tone misinterpreted. So yes I'm serious in that I believe what I'm saying, but at the same time you can buy whatever saw you want and I don't care. I have no agenda but there are things I believe to be true and I'm going to express them even if others disagree with me. It doesn't have to be an argument though and I will try harder not write things in a provocative way. Also Hubis, I thought it was funny too. Table saws are always a polarizing subject aren't they. Whether it's safety, or brand, or cabinet vs contractor vs bench top, etc.
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Feb 7, 2017 05:02
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GEMorris posted:...the equivalent of attacking a way of life or making GBS threads on a bald eagle, Hey, whoa, no making GBS threads on bald eagles please. Uncouth. Then take a deep breath and imagine a world where disagreement /= persecution. Now pretend you are living in that world. What's interesting is that 85% of the saws in your graphic did not have safety labels so obviously the answer is more safety labels. Now I'm being facetious  Skippy Granola posted:Sawstop is good. Looking at the cpsc.gov data, there was a drop of about 4,000 injuries a year (I didn't look at every year) since Sawstop, from like an average of 83k to 79k (although some years are as low as 74k). Those numbers include ALL saws.  https://www.cpsc.gov/Research--Statistics/NEISS-Injury-Data Fair warning, looking at those numbers my scare you away from everything.
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Feb 7, 2017 07:55
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Dane posted:Wondering how I can strengthen that angled cut without making it look bulky or screwing up the stackability of it. You want as much continuous grain running through the elbow as you can get. This is where crooked trees come in handy. Lay it out the wrong way and you'll have a short grain situation that will snap. The chair in her picture looks like that might have happened and was scarfed back together. Chairs can be tricky, many experienced woodworkers make a prototype.
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Feb 7, 2017 22:16
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I believe that without an apron or other structure it will not be very rigid and I really don't like the shelf. I would go with aprons but they don't have to boring, or solid.
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Feb 11, 2017 04:12
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Looking at it a 2nd time, you have 2 competing themes, rustic (through legs) meets 80's brass and glass console. If you went more industrial and floated the top instead of having through legs you could keep the overall structure light while improving rigidity.
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Feb 11, 2017 19:28
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Depending on the steel, could be as low as 500F. Some steels like O1 can change temper instantly while others have to soak in heat for a long time.
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Feb 12, 2017 19:27
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Rarely see walnut so dark and rich around here, too often it's washed out. I really like it. Yeah I use holly from a holly bush, only gets me little pieces though.
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Feb 13, 2017 22:52
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RAS are versatile. It's too bad it takes a lot of engineering to make a really good one. I wish I had room for one, several free ones have been offered to me over the years. I passed up a nice DeWalt for $50 once.
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Feb 15, 2017 04:27
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Leperflesh posted:-Cheaper than $500 would be just fine. If $350 gets me what I need, that's very good. I can spend more money on other things. In that price range you're looking at an older used contractor saw, US made Delta with a Biesemeyer or Unifence would be my first choice (or Powermatic if you could find one for that price). Second choice would be a used General, Jet, Grizzly, Craftsman, Ridgid, roughly in that order (there are exceptions). Don't buy anything with a crappy fence unless you get it cheap enough to afford an aftermarket fence. Bare minimum that meets your requirements would be the Delta sold by Lowes for $600. The thing to keep in mind is that any tablesaw under about $900 is going to be a compromise.
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Feb 16, 2017 08:02
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Leperflesh posted:So, something like one of these? I would go for the last one but $700 is high. If this were 2003 he would be spot on. If he would do $550 for all of it, you should jump on it. Then ditch the sheet metal left wing and replace it with a router table/wing. To me, the Powermatic is worth $350 tops because I think that's an older fence and I don't know how good it is, but that's in east coast dollars. The $400 Delta is higher than I'd like. In east coast dollars it's a $150 saw (bit rusty) with a $150-200 fence. The $250 Delta has a $150-200 fence, I think that's an actual Biesemeyer from the 90's, instead of the Delta clone that came later. The saw looks like an older 1.5hp US made version, if it is, I would be all over this like white on rice. If nothing else, I would buy it for the fence.
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Feb 16, 2017 20:53
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I like it, very nice. I'll be glad when I finish this remodeling work and can make a side table for my chair.
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Feb 17, 2017 21:14
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Sorry I don't have any suggestions, I've never had a board cup after planing, but 1/4" shiplap? 
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Feb 18, 2017 02:52
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It looks good if a bit beefy for the speaker size. How much spray paint did it take to get that nice finish?
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Feb 18, 2017 03:21
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:These panels are just the sides/back of the bookshelf, so they're not exactly structural. I assume the shiplapping is just so there's no visible gap between panels, so I'm making it just big enough to get a decent glue surface. Maybe shiplap means something different to me. When I think shiplap, I think 3/4 boards with half lapping rabbets where each board is fastened (nailed usually) individually to allow movement while still providing some structural support. In a bookcase the boards usually run vertical, horizontal on a wall. Examples https://www.lowes.com/creative-ideas/images/2016_08/September/create-an-accent-wall-with-shiplap-102771988.jpg https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/42/ca/d3/42cad3bd4ab678dad3b3c69343b878ed.jpg http://www.buffalo-lumber.com/shiplap-siding.htm
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Feb 18, 2017 07:59
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Yep, that's what was in the plans, and no, they don't explain why the boards should be shiplapped. Like I said, I think it was just for aesthetics. Oh, I see. The shiplapped bookcases I've seen had the back pieces in a rabbet so they needed the extra thickness for support. He's using thinner stock and putting it in a groove, creating a shiplapped post and panel. Partly for aesthetics, partly to allow movement. Fixing cup in 1/4, or even 3/8 boards is a tough one. I would let them relax for a few days and see what happens.
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Feb 18, 2017 19:29
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http://www.pbs.org/video/2172600556/ Hand Plane Essentials with Chris Schwarz
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Feb 18, 2017 21:12
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Big box fir is brittle but straighter and more dry than pine or spruce, at least in my experience. It's a trade off.
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Feb 19, 2017 01:36
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Cleaned up and rearranged my shop this weekend in preparation for some projects. I've got one more thing to do and I kinda dread but also kind of look forward to it ... I need to tear out the built in shelves in the back of shop and replace them with proper lumber storage shelves. The downside is that everything back there will have to come out and go -- somewhere, while I'm working on it.
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Feb 19, 2017 22:26
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I added some new stuff to my shop over the last year and I have a lot of wood, some on shelves and some just laying on the floor in different places. I've been wanting to build some furniture but every operation is move something to do something and I couldn't stand it anymore.
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Feb 20, 2017 06:01
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Tres Burritos posted:Maybe this? Looks like a winner to me. Woodsmith and Wood Mag have done shop carts a bunch of times. You can google and probably figure them out from the pictures. Mr. Mambold posted:Giving a potentially splintery structure to a child is what I was yelling at wormil about several weeks ago. Consider using more words next time, you went off message at "loving monstrosity." "The child" is fine, no boo-boos. She told me they would gradually transition into Autocad and leave manual drafting behind so I didn't want to put a lot of resources into a box that would be left at school 24/7 for 2 years then maybe never used again. NPR Journalizard posted:gently caress sanding. Every dollar put into reducing sanding time is money well spent IMO.
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Feb 21, 2017 08:50
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I can't sharpen them to save my life. I wish I could. Might buy new scrapers, maybe I have a bum set. Be nice to have some thick ones.
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Feb 21, 2017 18:11
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All my tables are 1/2 (3/8") thickness tenons but 1/3 is more common. I'm going to build some more tables soon and will probably switch to 1/3 (1/4") because it's less material to remove and all mine have been hand chopped.
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Feb 24, 2017 19:47
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I've been using sandpaper on glass for a long time but my patience is thinner these days and I might bite the bullet and invest in some diamond stones. Lumber rack is coming along but drat is my shop wrecked but it will be worth it. I made them relatively shallow, only about 11" deep so they are self limiting on how much I can pile on. Also threw out a lot of crap. The old shelves were built from knotty pine baseboard and I'm not sure if I want to keep it or trash it. It's really not that nice so probably trash it. edit; went up and added the 2nd row and realized that 90% of my lumber will stand vertical even though the ceiling is only 7' tall. It's got me rethinking things. wormil fucked around with this message at 03:49 on Feb 25, 2017 |
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Feb 25, 2017 02:21
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The tenon shoulders are as important as the tenons, as they resist racking so you don't want them too small.
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Feb 25, 2017 06:34
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GEMorris posted:Yeah I need to check Hayward 5/8 is too thick for 3/4 material because the shoulders will be too thin. Most tables aren't carrying much weight, relatively, so a 1/3-1/2 tenon by proportion is plenty. And without the shoulders a table will hold more static weight but will be weaker against racking forces.
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Feb 25, 2017 16:16
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Falcon2001 posted:I find myself with about $400 in Sears store credit, thinking about getting a drill press. Is the craftsman line universally awful or is a drill press simple enough that a new one would be worth it? The last time I read reviews on small drill presses, 12" and below, the Craftsman was near or at the top with a slightly more powerful motor and balanced wheels. But all of them are based on the same frame. On 14", I have no idea. I bought a Jet/Orbit from the 70s. But one that is very popular is the Porter Cable at Lowe's.
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Feb 25, 2017 16:28
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Mr. Mambold posted:I think he'd be ok with 1/2 tenon and 1/8th" shoulders if he's got a good fit. In fact, I'd lean toward that over 1/3 proportion. That's what I've done in the past, run them full depth and mitered the end. I also pin my tenons on the inside of the legs, not that anyone asked, but I think it's good practice. Going forward I'm going to do 1/2 proportion, easier to chop. Unless I get my mortiser running correctly then they will be easy. Or I could do them on the router table.
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Feb 25, 2017 16:41
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If you're worried about strength, I would go to a haunched tenon rather than anything larger than 1/2. But really unless you need a very heavy duty table that looks like fine furniture I wouldn't worry about it. It's easy to get into that mindset of making things as strong as possible but they only need to be strong enough.
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Feb 25, 2017 20:05
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GEMorris posted:I generally haunch the side of the tenon that will be on the outside, mains so I can cut through grooves rather than stopped grooves. Any strength bonus is a nice addition though. Oh, I didn't know you had built anything besides that planer stand. What kinds of things have you built and why have you never talked about them? Or maybe you did and I forgot? Mr. Mambold posted:Knotty pine baseboard sounds interesting, but using it as shelving sounds just weird. Well they used whatever, It was built in the 60's. The neighborhood was under construction at the time and a lot of the materials in my barn/shed/shop/whatever were "recycled." Incidentally I looked at those baseboards closer today and they are still dead flat, no cup, no bow, nothing. So I pulled the few nails and put them with the other lumber. wormil fucked around with this message at 02:55 on Feb 26, 2017 |
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Feb 26, 2017 02:51
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