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So I'm planning on building a bar/tool storage in my garage/mancave. I don't know if this really qualifies as "woodworking" because it's pretty much just going to be 2x4s and OSB (and hopefully I can find something reasonable to use as a bar top), but I have a lot of questions about framing. I tried to lay out the design and put everything in in a manner where it seems reasonably supported, but I really have no idea if I'm using too much matieral, or not enough, or if some runs of wood should be longer, or if "omg you have to put a support there or it will collapse" type deal. There are 3 major features that I would like to support. One is just an "open" end for a premade tool chest to go, second is a space for a mini fridge, and third is a space large enough to roll my lawn mower (collapsed handles) into, through a "door" on the outside. Check out these mockups and tell me what looks dumb as gently caress and needs to be changed: https://imgur.com/a/TWygr1r
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Dec 6, 2019 03:55
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Sockser posted:The way you’re doubling up the 2x4s on some of the lower shelves is definitely overkill. I asked my dad about it when I started designing and he basically said to support every horizontal joint from below when possible and "2x4s are cheap." We have different definitions of cheap so I would gladly eliminate some or all of the extra supports if they aren't needed. Also is there any reason for me to use anything other than simple butt joints (or with pocket holes)? Elysium fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Dec 6, 2019 |
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Dec 6, 2019 13:49
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Leperflesh posted:e. also, and you probably already know this but just in case since your drawings have no measurements on them: you're fully aware of how "dimenional lumber" works and that a 2x4 is not, in fact, two inches by four inches. Right? I'm using 1.5 x 3.5" for all of the 2x4s. The image should be exactly to scale. I made some modifications, mostly just eliminating the doubled up vertical supports by extending horizontal beams where I could to go all the way across. And I threw in some 1x2s for middle supports instead of 2x4s:  JEEVES420 posted:The bar top needs better bracing though. Either L brackets or more support on the back end; a T will twist and break as drunks lean on it. Yeah I haven't quite figured that part out yet. I'm not even sure what I'm using for the top, but it's not going to be super wide, 12-16" max.
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Dec 7, 2019 04:37
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Some of you might recall I posted some sketchup plans a while back for a bar/tool storage thing I wanted to build in my garage. Well I built most of it:    The frame is all pocket holed 2x4s. The bottom shelves are 7/16 OSB, the exterior faces are 11/32 sheathing, and the nicer shelf+counter is 1/2 inch maple (or maybe birch?) veneered plywood. At this point I've kind of reached the end of my knowledge of how to complete a project. The sheathing is currently just tacked in with some finish nails and the shelves are not attached at all. I kind of don't want to screw them from the top, and they are maybe a bit thin for screwing from the bottom, so I guess it's glue? That seems awfully permanent though... I guess I should do some kind of trim to hide the showing 2x4s and the plywood edges? And some kind of trim around the sheathing so it's not so monolithic? I've never stained or sealed wood in my life and I'm not sure where to start or what I'm even looking for in a "look" for this. The big ticket item however, is the bar top, and I'm many months late in deciding how I want to go about that. Obviously it would be the L shape of the bar, 1.5" thick, somewhere between 12 and 16" wide and with overhang it would be about 11' on the long side with another 4-5 foot piece for the short side. I've been looking into hardwood or butcher block, but that seems way too expensive for this cheap garage thing. And also kind of intimidating trying to go to a lumber dealer especially in covid-lockdown. I've also seen many intriguing glue ups of scrap wood, 2x4s and other things, but without access to a planer or other flattening tools those seem less realistic. I almost bought a 16' 2x12 at Home Depot the other day which would certainly be the budget option (like $25?), but getting one that's super flat with no cupping could be an issue, plus it's super soft wood. Maybe just two layers of plywood with a nicer one on top? I really can't decide. I just want a 11' long live edge slab to fall out of the sky into my yard.
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May 7, 2020 00:52
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I’ve been watching way to many YouTube videos where they are like “yeah so for this budget built I’m just gonna grab this cheap sheet of 3/4” maple...” I mean I guess it’s cheap compared to the equivalent in lumber.
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May 13, 2020 00:32
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Does this seem like a good deal? / Is this a decent saw? 
Elysium fucked around with this message at 14:46 on May 14, 2020 |
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May 14, 2020 14:36
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$100 is the cheapest I’ve seen for an old craftsman, like this one: https://i.imgur.com/2cfCCBl.jpg I also see several of them for $150-250 currently. The one I posted had the advantage of being in my town and coming with a bunch of old blades and dado stacks though (who knows what quality), so there was that. Splurge option: 
Elysium fucked around with this message at 15:37 on May 14, 2020 |
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May 14, 2020 15:23
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Mr. Mambold posted:You say splurge option like it's an actual thing. Lol, I thought it was pretty clear the guy looking at $200 saws on craigslist wasn't buying a $4900, 4900lb monster.
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May 14, 2020 17:12
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How’s this one look?  
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May 17, 2020 17:18
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Yeah I thought maybe the same thing about the top. I’m not in a particular rush I just don’t have a table saw (have a circular saw and a borrowed miter saw) so any potential projects I might be thinking about have to either wait or make do. I had a look at the popular job site saws in Home Depot the other day and was seriously unimpressed. Portability is not a need I have and maybe it’s just because they were display models but the fences seemed incredibly unreliable (I know that many people upgrade anyway). Lockdown was weak and deflection seemed common. If I can’t find anything decent near me on Craigslist/Facebook I’ve been considering the delta 36-725T2 from Lowe’s. Stores don’t seem to actually carry it though so looks like another $100 for shipping.
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May 17, 2020 19:14
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I tried to buy a sander yesterday at at Home Depot, I saw online they had 3 in stock, so I ordered one for pick up in store. They said we’ll notify you when your order is ready. A full day later, no notification. The next day I get notified that my order is cancelled because they are out of stock. What the hell is the point of pick up in store if that doesn’t actually reserve me the item? I could have just gone to the store and grabbed one off the shelf when there were 3 in stock.
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May 19, 2020 17:27
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I couldn’t help but laugh at those constantly beeping “you are being recorded” notifications by the tools section, when literally every person in the store has their entire face covered by a mask.
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May 19, 2020 18:07
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Just a little update on that sander I was trying to buy, the sale price is now over and Home Depot is magically all stocked up again.
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May 23, 2020 01:19
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Is there any reason I can't or shouldn't build my bar top out of plywood like this (cutaways shown for clarity): This would limit my cost to just one nice sheet of 3/4 ply and one cheap one, plus some hardwood for the trim. Since it's more than 8' long that leaves me with a butt joint (in addition to the miter joint). Is there a better way? The only connection point to the frame is the 3.5" of horizontal stud, and most of the top would be hanging over the one side, so I'm assuming I'll also need some counter supports so it doesn't sag or break off? Or would the 1.5" of plywood plus the fact that it's an L on one side be enough?
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May 27, 2020 21:50
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I just called my local lumber yard to ask about plywood prices, and they said they had 3/4 Baltic Birch in 5x5 for about $60. Is that a decent price? Actually I can’t remember now if he said 49 or 59. For comparison the best sheet of plywood i can get at HD is about $55 for 4x8 with a thin veneer (not the same as Baltic) Elysium fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Jun 5, 2020 |
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Jun 5, 2020 20:30
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Is this anything? There was a Grizzly 771 that went up for $900. Retail is $925... and it sold. I guess there is something be said for saving on taxes and shipping.
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Jun 8, 2020 01:00
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Leperflesh posted:That looks a whole lot like my Delta, but it's a view of the back. The fence is excellent but what you have there is one that rides on a track on the front of the saw only, I don't see a rear track, so that affects rigidity a bit. From what we can see, the iron looks good. I paid half that for mine, a few years ago, but I got probably an unreasonably excellent deal. Are they throwing in any accessories? Also be aware that for older Deltas like that, you simply cannot get a new riving knife or splitter for it, they've been out of stock for a decade. So, you can try and find a used one, fabricate one yourself, or, use something like the MJ Splitter as a substitute. I find that works fine for me. But what I'm getting at is like: do they still have the splitter/knife that came with the saw? If so, that's definitely a plus. I haven’t talked to the guy yet but it’s a typical Facebook marketplace post that barely says anything except that it runs on 220 and “router not included” I’m guessing he means the actual router and not the table insert but you never know. Is there like a 40 character limit on marketplace ads? It does not seem like it comes with a riving knife or splitter or any other stuff. Here are the other photos: https://imgur.com/a/CvL2BUh
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Jun 8, 2020 02:28
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Interesting comparison of my local market: I grabbed a sheet of 4x8 birch plywood at the lumber yard closest to my house, and it was $45, which is $10 cheaper than HD, and it’s 9 or 10 ply compared to the HD 5 ply. The HD stuff actually seems to have a thicker veneer though, the Lumber yard sheet is really paper thin. I got it home and after inspecting it some more, decided I would try to get a nicer sheet at a more reputable lumber yard a bit further from my house. So I went there and checked out the sheets, and they did seem somewhat nicer, so I bought one for $65. When I got home and put them next to each other they were actually pretty similar, and then I noticed they were both stamped “AFL-IKE Made in Vietnam.” So they are literally from the same supplier, and one just cost $20 more because that place caters more to tradesman and hobbyists a and the first one sells mostly to local construction.
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Jun 12, 2020 20:56
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 Man, if today weren't my first day back in the office... and I had a truck... and I had another person to help...
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Jun 18, 2020 18:03
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 Here’s where I’m at with the Garage bar build. I need to stain or paint the sides, and seal the top. The sides are just really cheap pine boards and plywood, the top is birch veneer plywood with a red oak trim. I was thinking of just seeing how a gel stain would look on the sides and it it comes out crappy then just paint over it. For the top I bought a can of Helmsman Spar Urethane after some initial research but looking into it more I’m not sure if I should go with that. Should I just use regular poly instead? Or something else? I’m not going to spring for expensive bar epoxy. Seeing some recommendations for Arm-R-Seal Elysium fucked around with this message at 18:06 on Jul 5, 2020 |
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Jul 5, 2020 17:23
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Ok, I'm finally calling this thing done. 90% of the work took place over about 2 weekends, the other 10% over ~6 months... This is my first real solo project. I've done some light framing, shelf building, etc, but nothing that really needed to be finished. The original concept was for it to be super cheap, maybe even free, just from pallet wood or whatever I could find and be mainly unfinished because it's in a garage and it will probably get beat on by tools. But I was too lazy to go collect pallets and source free wood and as I started working on it and figuring out what I wanted I made it slightly nicer looking (and more expensive) than originally planned, so it's kind of a weird hybrid now. I'm gonna estimate I spent, I dunno, $400? not including any tools I bought, which were many, and not counting my beginner's tax of stuff I bought because I wasn't sure what I was doing. It's made of almost entirely cheap pine, 2x4s, some construction grade ply, cheap 1x pine, except the top which is cheap birch ply and the border is red oak. No advanced joinery or anything, just pocket holes for the most part, some glue, some brad nails. Sealed with 3 coats of Arm R Seal.  I built one stool for $6 out of 2x2s right at the beginning. Turns out that is all I'll need for a while. Thanks Covid!   The veneer on this ply was microscopically thin, and I sanded through a few spots, and had some glue spots that didn't stain evenly, but the grain came out pretty nice. I looked through every board for the one with the nicest grain. General Finish Antique Walnut gel stain.  Here you can see where I accidentally cut one of the miters backwards, so I had to make it a compound corner. Actually I probably should have done all the corner like that but oh well.  The inside is less finished, but it's mostly for storage anyway. I might stain the inside one day, or add more trim.  I designed the frame with extra space in the corner so I can store my lawnmower. 
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Aug 10, 2020 19:31
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I’m no anvil expert but that seems way too tall? Maybe it’s just an optical illusion...
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Aug 11, 2020 14:33
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JEEVES420 posted:You build the shop around the most used tool in your shop. Phew, I managed to put that Bar in the right spot then.
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Aug 11, 2020 21:05
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Well the Dewalt 780 costs like twice as much as the 779 and the only difference is the 780 has the shadow line thing, so either they somehow cost a fuckton or they're just hoping the rip people the gently caress off. If it's the latter though, then I don't know why every other miter saw manufacturer doesn't just cut the floor out on them with their several hundred dollar cheaper shadow line saws.
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Aug 12, 2020 19:59
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Speaking of Track Saws, I made this crazy simple track saw jig out of some scrap and I can’t believe I didn’t do this the day I got my circular saw. It’s already come in super handy. Now I just need to make an 8’ long one. 
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Aug 14, 2020 22:55
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So I’m making a couple Crokinole boards, and the grain on this one I thought was super cool and looked like a planet. Do you think I could stain it with a mix of colors so it really comes out like Jupiter or something? 
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Aug 25, 2020 16:04
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The coupon code Foureyes10 works on the G0513X2 for 10% off. Brings it down from $1250 to $1075 (before tax and shipping and all that, which is a real killer for this type of stuff since it adds several hundred) Here’s the other stuff it works on btw: 
Elysium fucked around with this message at 01:48 on Aug 31, 2020 |
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Aug 31, 2020 01:42
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I made some things: A cornhole set (and wall mounts):  A hook and ring game:  Flexes a bit more than I expected but doesn’t really hurt the game.
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Sep 1, 2020 17:43
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Rutibex posted:How does that ring game work? Do you just drop it from a distance and try to catch on the hook? Looks like fun, I've got everything I need to make that Yeah you just have to give it a bit of side to side swing to get exactly the right angle to let it hook. If you can connect to the ceiling you don’t even need to build anything, but I had the garage door in the way so I needed something overhead to connect it to.
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Sep 1, 2020 18:53
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Man I thought I had it bad when I bought a bunch of 2x4s in the spring for $3.75. Luckily I also spotted a bunch of 2x4s in the cull pile my next trip, which were pretty much the same quality, and those were like $1.00 each
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Sep 15, 2020 21:26
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Cross posting from board games, almost done with my Crokinole boards. You can make 4 from a full sheet of plywood... so I made 4. Tried some small differences across them, tried to get a little funky with the last one as I posted about previously. Not sure it entirely “works” but it also doesn’t not work, so there’s that. Still have to wait a while for the poly to cure and then rub out and insert the pegs.    
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Oct 9, 2020 02:33
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Wow those are really cool. How did you cut the little groove/inlay things? 2 of them are routed in, with a 3/32 straight bit, only a mm or 2 deep. Used a simple jig and a very careful straightedge. The other 2 are just straight sharpie lines. There are ways to fill in the routed lines so they are flush, but it didn’t seem worth the effort as even with the gaps it doesn’t affect the game, the discs slide right over. The sharpie lines actually look pretty legit, though I think I prefer the routed ones just because it *looks* like “oh someone did some work to do this.” The Jupiter one is just a bunch of various gel stains and red dye stain, they didn’t have a straight red stain. The dye stain doesn’t feather at all so it kind of sticks out with a sharp edge but it’s not too bad. The rest of them I just rubbed on and mixed a bit until it looked ok. I had much more white stain on it at first but it didn’t look good so I added more brown tones. I do with the wood grain stood out more because I was hoping the swirls would add to the pattern but it’s pretty muted.
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Oct 9, 2020 03:19
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Rutibex posted:
So far just sanded the wood to 320 and light sanded between each of the 10ish coats of poly. After it cures each one needs a run of sanding all the way up through 4000, then a coating of wax, and maybe some capo powder. I have amazingly few progress pics but here’s one of my router jig for the guy who asked before:  And this is my “drill press,” aka, please let this absolutely crucial forstner hole go in straight with no chatter: 
Elysium fucked around with this message at 15:54 on Oct 9, 2020 |
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Oct 9, 2020 13:34
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Uthor posted:The issue is the exposed edges of the plywood: I think they may look ugly with stain. Does anyone have a good solution for this? Should I bother getting some trim pieces or something? You can get simple iron-on edge banding that will cover the edges like this: https://www.amazon.com/Preglued-Edge-Flexible-Application-Adhesive/dp/B075CSWCTC/ref=psdc_13399361_t1_B00HCLNGE2 The way you've constructed this, though, it might not look that great on the drawer fronts. I can see why you made them the way you did for easy screwing from the side, but you probably should have made the drawer fronts attach from the front so the edges are covered by the panel. These are often Dovetailed, but without doing any complicated joinery you could still just screw them from the front and just fill them in with wood filler or you could cover them with buttons or plugs  .
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Oct 21, 2020 16:46
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There are knockoffs, but it’s always hard to tell if you are getting something decent or complete crap. If you buy the packs that are like 250 or 500 of one length screw they don’t seem that expensive, it’s the small boxes and variety packs that are insane.
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Oct 29, 2020 04:45
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After waiting a month for the poly to cure, I finished 2/4 Crokinole boards yesterday. This involved attaching the center to the bases, Sanding/polishing the poly up to 4000 grit, waxing the surface, and inserting the pegs (which are pan head screws with impossible-to-cut-straight rubber tubing).  Why 2/4? Well, I had some uh, setbacks. The first board I started to sand I wasn’t sure how much to do with the lower grits, and I ended up sanding right through the poly in some spots. So yeah, back to square one with adding poly and waiting another month I guess... The second board I was determined not to sand through the top, which was fine except I had the genius idea to use my vacuum attachment on the sander so it would clear more of the dust, and the added bulk made it awkward and I immediately sanded on an edge trying to readjust my positioning and went straight through the poly and even the stain. This was only on the very edge of the disc, so technically wouldn’t affect anything, but now I had a strip of light colored corner on an all dark stained board. So I added more stain and a few coats of poly to the edge and I’ll try again later on that one too.
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Oct 31, 2020 17:18
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I just bought them. You certainly could make them (I mean, someone has to), but it definitely doesn’t seem worth. The only downside is you kind of have to get them from Canada and no one gives free shipping.
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Oct 31, 2020 17:50
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Here's some guy making discs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ckAxpAXliBg&t=304s He has an interesting method of keeping his fingers away from the router bit.
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Oct 31, 2020 17:57
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:These look really great. Are you sanding the finish by machine? Even when I had access to a $1000 sander made specifically for wet-sanding finishes, I would only use it on big flat surfaces because it would cut through the edges in a big hurry. The dried film is usually less than ten mils (thousandths of an inch) and is very easy to cut through. as you well know. I'd stick to doing it by hand. If you are dry sanding by hand and the paper clogs, you might try wet sanding with a foam block. It cuts much faster than dry sanding and with less clogging. Soapy water works fine. Well it basically is a big flat surface, 26” diameter, (the pegs go in after) so I’m using a random orbital sander. The first one I was just dumb and I sanded way too long with low grit. The second one only went through because I tilted on the edge due to the obstruction of the vacuum hose. The third and fourth one went fine. I basically just followed the advice of a guy who makes these boards for a living (although he says he uses a CNC to polish it for him these days). There is like 10-15 layers of poly on each one so it’s fairly thick. Elysium fucked around with this message at 01:38 on Nov 2, 2020 |
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Nov 2, 2020 01:32
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JEEVES420 posted:How big are the dice? If your standard dice tower is what, 6 inches high? Then we're talking dice about 15 inches a side or so, I'd say. I'm thinking hollow wicker construction would be your best bet for weight savings and bounciness so they don't destroy things. Elysium fucked around with this message at 19:36 on Nov 5, 2020 |
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Nov 5, 2020 19:33
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