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poopinmymouth posted:If you have a brain that visualizes things in 3D, and don't mind learning programs, I highly suggest giving at least SketchUp a try, or Blender. It can be very enjoyable for the right sort of brain. Tinkercad works quite well and is very simple, though if you are doing something as complex as those sweet windows it probably isn't well suited to it.
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Oct 19, 2020 13:27
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ColdPie posted:I wrote up a construction blog post. Short version is I'm super happy with how it turned out. It was my first time making and hanging doors and, other than a few mistakes with where I drilled the holes for the hinges, they turned out perfect. I think this is easily the nicest piece I've made. This is really nice. I'm impressed with just how trim everything looks but that's probably because I'm a poo poo woodworker. SouthShoreSamurai posted:My dad used to do stained glass as a hobby. I never really cared too much for the multi-color, but I wonder if he could teach me to make something like this... Wheel-cut glass (it's just the one color!) is pretty rad if you want to get into that kind of thing. Apparently a lot of the antique stuff is breaking because of the expansion/contraction of the layers and everyone is just pumping out lovely flashed/molded stuff instead of doing it proper.
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Oct 22, 2020 17:29
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I made a little hexagon table thing to hold a plant (not pictured, the pot/saucer are still coming). It's the first "real" piece of furniture (e.g. finished and going somewhere other people will see it instead of organizing storage in my shed/basement) I have attempted from scratch but I think it mostly turned out alright. I hosed up the V's on the bottom of the pairs of legs a little by cutting one V just slightly shorter than it should be and not realizing when I band clamped them to the legs that they would be pulled towards the center of the table after I left them there for the glue to dry. I should probably get a doweling jig, and I should probably have hit the legs with another coat of stain. Also I rounded the bottom edge of the lip under the top of the table and then attached the legs with it upside-down  . I guess there's always next time.
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Nov 11, 2020 16:15
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Rutibex posted:Very nice! I'm not qualified to tell you the right way to do anything, but I can tell you what I did. The top is just edge glued. I probably should have spent more time trying to match up the grain but I don't mind that you can tell it's not a monolithic chunk of wood. I considered biscuits but they didn't seem super necessary to me at the time: I did end up with a slight warp in the top that might not have been there if I had used them (or some other locator), though it was small enough that attaching the top to the lip/leg assembly (with a bunch of 1" corner braces) after I applied the polyurethane pulled it flat. I laid the whole thing out in a 3d program (TinkerCad, 'cause I'm a dummy) before I made it because hexagon math gives me a headache. I cheated a little to make the measurements round instead of making a perfect hexagon. Each half of the top is three boards (3.5", 2.5", 2" for 16" total at the skinniest part). I cut the two center (and longest) pieces to length (18 ½") and then cut the 30° angles into the ends with a mitre saw. Instead of trying to figure out exactly how long the next boards should be I just used the edges of the ones I had already cut to mark them. I mostly did it that way because trying to cut 30° angles into a big rear end rectangle with a contractor's table saw didn't sound fun or particularly safe. Olothreutes posted:That is a handsome table, imo. The rounded edge on the tabletop looks great and 100% intentional. Probably an instance of the whole "things that drive you nuts and no one else notices" thing. The rounding on the top I did with a router. The bit I hosed up is the lip here:  I put that bit on upside down after I spent a bunch of time rounding the edge with one of these things I don't know the actual name of:  So the rounded edge is hidden under the top and the visible edge is the only one on the whole thing that's a hard corner  .
Wallet fucked around with this message at 19:02 on Nov 11, 2020 |
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Nov 11, 2020 18:39
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I've been sorting out drill bits as I had a (maybe slightly unreasonable) number floating around.  It's not pretty, but it should work. I've run into a stupid mystery I'm hoping someone can solve, as Google isn't helping. Does anyone know what these are actually called? 
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Nov 15, 2020 16:08
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Rutibex posted:Looks like an Auger Bit, but someone broke off the tip Yeah, it does, but they definitely haven't been broken/ground.
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Nov 15, 2020 21:00
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ColdPie posted:My advice is for each new project you make to incorporate about one new technique. Practice that technique at least once or twice in scrap before you try it for real. The first time will teach you a lot, then keep practicing until you feel you're ready to do it for real (but don't over-do the practicing; just build the drat thing). Then you'll have that technique in your library for the next project, and you'll build up a library of techniques you can use when you're designing your pieces. I'm not a good woodworker, but this has been my approach. If I want to try something out I'll just shoehorn it into a project where it's not required but won't gently caress anything up (shop furniture or whatever). I've also found that even if I think I have everything I need I will end up at the hardware store for some specific screw or t-nut or bracket or bit or whatever anyway. I will say that beyond the basics like some clamps etc, the one thing I couldn't live without as someone who is bad at making things line up perfectly all of the time is a decent sanding block (not the foam kind, the kind you can attach any quarter-sheet you want to) and my cheap rear end ($30 on sale or something?) orbital sander.
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Nov 28, 2020 16:40
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The Locator posted:Pretty easy to make these in whatever size I want, and seems like a pretty great use for cheap and/or scrap hardwoods. How much pressure do you need the clamps to apply? X-ACTO used to make plastic clamps that are convenient for holding little poo poo together though there's no cam action so the pressure is limited—they don't make them anymore but there are knockoffs that are pretty cheap.
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Dec 6, 2020 00:45
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The Locator posted:Not really about pressure so much as finding a fairly easy to make design like this that I can make in all different sizes as I need them for the project. The cam clamps probably aren't great for a huge amount of pressure either, but they are nice in that they can be rapidly put in place without messing with screws and adjustments, just squeeze them tight and then use the cam to apply enough pressure to get them to stay put. Yeah, the plastic ones use a little wedge you push with your thumb to lock the bottom jaw but I suspect that kind of design wouldn't work very well in wood.
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Dec 6, 2020 01:11
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MetaJew posted:Second, I'm looking for opinions on improving spice cabinet organization, since I'm getting really frustrated with how disorganized my spice cabinet is. It's a 12" wide by 40" tall wall cabinet I have to the left of my stove and with all of the bottles randomly dispersed over two of the shelves it's a pain in the rear end to find any of the spices that I don't use very often. I did a bunch of this recently to fix cabinet organization for spices/pots & pans/oils/etc. I went with drawers/trays on slides mostly for the flexibility. The little sliding thing you posted and stuff like it looks very appealing but all of my spices aren't the same size. If you really want to commit to one size I'd probably make a drawer/tray and then you can put an insert in it to hold all of your spices nicely like the one bobua linked to, then if you ever change your mind you can swap out the insert. I do also have some of my spices that are up higher (so sliding drawers wouldn't be very convenient) and get used less often in little bins like these. It's not the most elegant solution but it works fairly well and I suppose I could make them much nicer to look at by making something similar out of wood.
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Dec 9, 2020 14:47
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I'm working on plans to build a bedframe + headboard for my bed. The understructure I can make out of whatever since you can't see it, but I'm not sure what I want to make the exterior out of. The other wood furniture in the room is all dark so given what's locally available for less than $$$ I'm almost certainly going to be staining it. Hard maple seems like a no-go because it's stain-averse, and it seems idiotic to pay a premium for cherry and then stain the poo poo out of it. I can get beech or oak but I don't love the grain for this project. I see people complaining about blotching problems with soft maple though I can't tell if that's overblown—it seems like people complain about stain blotching with almost everything. I don't really want to have to seal it before staining because it will make it harder to get it as dark as it needs to be to work with the other furniture. Ash is looking like an appealing option but I haven't worked with it and I'm afraid there might be a reason I'm not aware of that it isn't more popular. I can also get yellow birch which I also haven't worked with though I've had good experiences with finishing birch plywood. Any advice/insight would be much appreciated. Elder Postsman posted:I also went with sort of wall art shelves and made this several years ago [...] This is a cool design. I moved all of my dishes to a drawer instead of a cabinet recently and when I made the insert to keep them from clanking against each other I almost went with a peg system like this. The shelves falling off would kind of scare me but I guess you could easily just put a lip on them if it was a problem.
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Dec 10, 2020 20:00
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I did a bed out of sapele. With no stain, just finish, it's a nice reddish-brown. Walnut and purpleheart also wouldn't require staining. I don't know what prices are like in your area (prices of specific species tend to vary wildly depending on location) so these may or may not be practical suggestions Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Ash is a wonderful wood to work with. Basically looks like oak under stain/finish. If you don’t like grainy, it’s not for you. Yellow birch is good too, as is poplar, though it can be a trick to stain. Discomancer posted:These install pretty easily and make good knockdown connections if you have plunge router and chisels, and are nice because they are completely hidden: https://www.rockler.com/heavy-duty-wrought-steel-bed-rail-fasteners-4-pack-select-size I put a dowel in the stretchers so they are screwing into something other than just end grain. Cherry isn't cheap, it's just not unaffordably expensive like other things. Blistex posted:4. Make use of plans on sites like lumberjocks and post sketches/mockups here.  Lighter colored stuff is pine in contractor sizes, slightly darker stuff is 4/4. It almost certainly has way more legs than it needs but  And with the outside on there:  I haven't designed any beds before so I'm probably loving some things up, but that's part of the fun.
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Dec 10, 2020 23:45
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:This is super overbuilt. You can ditch all of the legs that aren't at corners and be just fine. Your bed will be lighter, materials will be cheaper, construction and installation will be easier. The extra legs along the sides are largely to give me something to attach the outside to. The corner legs are 4x4 but the rest are 2x4—I took out some of the extra legs in the middle. TooMuchAbstraction posted:On that note, how are you planning to assemble the bed? This looks like it's all pocket hole joinery over which will be (glued? screwed?) hardwood, which is fine except that I'm not sure how you're going to get it from shop to bedroom. I'd give some serious thought to what the major components will be and how big they'll be, so you can do most of the work in a workshop and be able to break it down for transport. Yeah, pocket holes are pretty much the plan for the frame. The hardwood I'll glue and screw with some corner braces etc—I thought about some more complicated joinery but it didn't really make any sense. My current plan is to assemble it in ~five pieces (left, center, right, headboard, foot and the two drawers) with the foot of the bed attached to the horizontal brace rather than the legs. I haven't decided exactly how I want to make the attachment between the brace the foot will be attached to and the sides easy to assemble/disassemble. TooMuchAbstraction posted:Also: why make the slats out of hardwood? They'll be covered by the mattress. And note that slats can/should be loosely installed so they have some room to move, so don't glue or screw them to the frame. You can put in little spacers to keep them from bunching up. Mostly because it makes lining things up easier if the thickness of those slats is the same as the hardwood around the outside top edge and I don't have a planer. I was thinking about attaching the slats with loose bolts to locate them without locking them down but it sounds like I should just make loose spacers and drop them in.
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Dec 11, 2020 14:06
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How useful do people feel like it is to have a panel saw around? I've been offered one (I think it's a safety speed something or other) but I'd have to find somewhere to put it and I'm not sure I'd use it much as I don't cut a ton of large sheet goods. Do people who have access to one find themselves using it for much outside of that?
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Dec 22, 2020 15:30
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Baronash posted:I used one constantly for set construction back in college. In my opinion, nothing even comes close to the speed or safety of the panel saw for tearing down sheet goods. If you don’t need to do much of that though, then honestly it’ll probably just take up space. JEEVES420 posted:Safety Speeds are great. You can cut all kinds of sheet goods with its interchangeable blades and cutters. However if you are not cutting up sheets on a regular basis then it is not worth it. It takes up a rather large footprint, even mobile you have to consider the space needed to load the sheets when you want to use it. Not ideal for the Garage shop. That's kind of what I figured. I'd have to keep it in the shed (my actual shop is in the basement where I don't think it could even stand up) which would mean dragging the thing out any time I wanted to use it. I'd probably end up just using the track saw anyway to avoid the bother. Thanks!
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Dec 22, 2020 20:29
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NomNomNom posted:A pile of prezzies. Nicely done! There's something about the one made of cubes that I find very satisfying to look at.
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Dec 24, 2020 17:34
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Bouillon Rube posted:Are there any good phone/pc apps out there that help to make drawings like this? TinkerCad is about as simple as it can get for mocking stuff up in 3D and is basically what you've described. It's designed for 3d printing and laser cutting so for big poo poo you have to pretend inches are millimeters but it works well enough.
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Jan 4, 2021 01:56
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Looks great though there's a weird spot on the center panel next to the drawers that I'm hoping is just the camera  AFewBricksShy posted:Edit: Looking at the picture, I really should have used a level. Just give yourself up to a level-free life IMO. Every time I do something that's actually leveled it looks twice as crooked because not a single surface in this house is anything like level.
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Jan 6, 2021 15:14
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NomNomNom posted:Obviously a backer piece would be ideal, but I can't think of a way to add one that preserves the ability of the rabbet to ride on the square. This may sound silly but have you tried wrapping the end of the wood (the future end—where the blade is going to go through) in masking tape? It's often surprisingly effective at preventing that kind of tearout. Wallet fucked around with this message at 15:25 on Jan 12, 2021 |
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Jan 12, 2021 15:16
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Shelvocke posted:Thanks for the feedback goons. The question about finishing was for a dining table made out of scaffold boards; it's pine underneath but with loads of character. They want a finish similar to the oak bench, and with limited research I thought maybe Danish oil would achieve that. An all-in-one product would suit me better so I'll look a little harder. Water based poly is really easy to apply these days, has tamer vapors than most paint, and doesn't really impact color. You can largely control how shiny it ends up looking with how/how much you sand during application. I like danish oil but I'd be constantly rewaxing if I used it on a table that sees any significant use.
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Jan 22, 2021 23:51
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I inherited a pair of weird mid-century modern interlocking shelf things that my parents purchased 40+ years ago. I think these are the exact same ones except mine aren't refinished: They're falling apart at this point so I'm working on some replacements loosely based on them that will hold plants and poo poo. I went to the mill yesterday to get some maple and left with ~60 board feet of cherry because it looked good I'm an adult and I can do what I want  .I'm not planning to stain them or anything but I would like them to darken up over time—because they'll be holding plants they'll end up getting water all over them repeatedly. I was planning to seal everything up with poly but I'm not sure if that's going to gently caress with the cherry coloring up as it ages and I wasn't able to find any clear answers after some googling. Anyone know? Also I've got a whole bunch of panels to glue up for this project so I made a bunch of cauls after seeing them mentioned in this thread and they're working real good. Thanks woodworking thread!
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Jan 24, 2021 19:23
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Hm, then maybe it doesn't need UV light to darken and I'm just talking poo poo. I know I've used a polyurethane finish on cherry and had it darken in sunlight. I was mostly just looking for confirmation from someone who has done it that it doesn't make it stay super pale. The internet at least seems to think that cherry darkens from both oxidation and light exposure (though not necessarily UV specifically).
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Jan 24, 2021 20:40
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:IME a film finish like poly or lacquer does make it darken considerably slower than an oil finish, both because the film prevents more oxidation/UV light and because oil soaking into the wood darkens it some. You could leave it unfinished for a while and let it darken a bit, or stick it outside for a few hours on a few sunny days. It darkens quite quickly with UV exposure, but it can be hard to get it even. I remember reading about your experiments in the chair thread. I'm probably just going to leave the cherry alone—knowing where it's going to end up is appealing but I don't really want to gently caress around with dangerous chemicals to do it. It's going to get blasted with plant lights so I imagine it will darken up just fine.
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Jan 24, 2021 22:17
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NomNomNom posted:Echoing routers, but also sanders. I've bloodied myself with my random orbit more times than I can count, usually when I'm lazy and try to hold my workpiece in one hand and manage the sander with the other. How big is your orbital sander? The worst I've done is give myself some hellacious papercuts by being an idiot but it's just a little 5 incher.
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Jan 26, 2021 14:18
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Rufio posted:Man I wish my lumberyard let me hand pick boards You don't have any choice but to hand pick the boards at the mill I go to but I suck at telling how a board will turn out after it's been planed so I'm not sure how much good it does me. They're only open to retail sales one day a week but it's fun catching the boards as the owner feeds them through the planer and seeing what comes out.
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Jan 26, 2021 15:53
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:If you're buying from a small mill like that they may not be grading stuff, but learning a bit about the hardwood lumber grading rules is helpful for knowing what to expect, especially if you have to buy lumber sight-unseen. They do grade mark them and they're mostly sorted by grade in the stacks, but I can't tell much beyond that before it gets planed. The prices are far better than anywhere else I can get lumber around here though I have no idea if they're good in the grand scheme of things. I think I paid $3.50/bf for the 4/4 F1F cherry I picked up over the weekend and $4/bf for FAS.
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Jan 26, 2021 18:43
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I'm still working on those shelf things and one of them was ready for assembly so I marked everything up to remind me what direction things go in and dry fit it and everything looked good. Then I assembled it and everything looked good. Then I noticed that I had, inexplicably, attached the top of it upside down. I don't really mind the two big knots that are now on top, but the 1/2" deep knot hole is a problem. I assume my best bet is to fill it in with clear epoxy?
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Jan 28, 2021 14:28
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:How easy/hard is cherry to dye stain consistently? I just finished a project with maple and it was a pain in the rear end to keep it consistent. You'd probably need some kind of sealer/conditioner if you are worried about blotching problems, just like with maple.
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Jan 29, 2021 14:40
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I'm (forever) trying to clear out space in my shop, and I've been eyeing the sheet sanders for a while. I sort of inherited an old half-sheet and two quarter-sheet sanders but I haven't been able to find any reason to use them. The quarter-sheet sanders seem strictly inferior to my orbital except that it can't get right up in corners, but the detail sander does a much better job in corners anyway. The half-sheet is as bulky as a belt sander but far, far less effective. They could just be past their prime but am I missing something? Are sheet sanders just poo poo?Lord Stimperor posted:We tried a bit of vinegar and water, but they wouldn't budge. The spots are very smooth, you wouldn't notice them by touch. Forcefully rubbing is probably a bad idea? Going too hard might strip the finish but you may have to refinish it if you want to get those stains off anyway.
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Feb 1, 2021 00:40
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Blistex posted:I find buying actual 3M or other name brand RO disks lasts long enough to break even compared to sheets. 3M discs held up the best of the brands I've tried, but they cost an arm and a leg at the local big box 10 at a time. There's got to be somewhere better to get them. On the other hand, I picked up a box of 50 cheapo discs before starting this project and there's maybe 15 left so perhaps it's worth it.
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Feb 1, 2021 02:49
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JEEVES420 posted:Dura gold have been really good at a decent price. Less than $20 for 50 sheets. Those are the ones I got an used most of a box of.
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Feb 1, 2021 13:41
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JEEVES420 posted:are you trying to skip grits when sanding? I can take an end grain cutting board off the drum sander at 120 and use a single disc of 150, 220, 320 with orbital for the whole thing and the discs are still usable for hand sanding after. This whole project is ~70 board feet of imperfectly planed cherry 4/4 edge-glued into 18" wide panels and though I try I am not always the tidiest of gluers so there's some cleanup to be done (especially under where the cauls were), plus it's put together with plugged pocket screws so I have to sand down the plugs. I'm using a disc-sander on the end grain but that's still a lot of surface area to sand. I should get better with my belt sander but I have to figure out how to fix it—right now the bottom doesn't make full contact so it ends up sanding in a ~1 1/2" wide strip instead of the full width of the belt. NomNomNom posted:I made a pinterest perfect thing, because naturally my wife saw one on etsy, I saw the price tag ($500, mdf) and I said I can do better. Wallet fucked around with this message at 18:28 on Feb 1, 2021 |
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Feb 1, 2021 18:19
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Removing dried glue is one of my least favorite things to do, but I hate to wipe the wet glue off an edge joint for fear of leaving a starved joint. There's a decent window somewhere around an hour (with the 30 minute clamp time Tightbonds anyway) after you've glued something up where the glue is hard enough that you can scrape it off without just smearing it everywhere, but it's still a pain in the rear end. I don't want to underglue joints, particularly when joining edges, but I also don't want to end up with so much squeeze out that it saturates the wood near the joint, particularly if I'm staining. I mostly just end up sanding a bunch NomNomNom posted:Question for the grupthink. I have a makita ro sander that's fine but it doesn't have variable speed. Is that a necessary feature? I hate that mine speeds up to infinity under zero load, like if I pull away for even a second it's going way too fast by the time I make contact again. I have to start it right before making contact. I have a cheapo 5" Milkwaukee that has speed settings but they're almost entirely useless because anything under a 4 does absolutely nothing and it tops out at 6. It also doesn't spin fast enough even on max speed that it's difficult to control when touching down. Wallet fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Feb 1, 2021 |
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Feb 1, 2021 21:35
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I have a bunch of projects in the planning phases but I only have one actually physically started at a time. I'm definitely not a capital R, capital W Real Woodworker though.NomNomNom posted:I hyper focus on one project at a time, to the point that it interferes with everything else in my life, burn out, and take a break for a week or two. It's pretty much how all my hobbies go. Sounds like textbook ADHD .
Wallet fucked around with this message at 14:06 on Feb 2, 2021 |
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Feb 2, 2021 13:59
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I finished my plant shelf things. This was my 3d mockup, loosely based on these things that I was replacing.  I changed the corner table to make it a little taller and modified the design because I slightly underestimated how much lumber I'd need.  Not exactly pure works of art, but I think they'll look decent once they're populated with plants. Interested to see how the cherry colors up both in general and when getting hit with plant lights 14 hours a day, though I'm probably going to need to rotate where the pots are for a while to avoid leaving bright spots. I might add a lip along the top front edges to hide the lights when you're lower down which I probably should have done before applying poly.
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Feb 4, 2021 15:50
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His Divine Shadow posted:Made myself a wood clamp. But not with the cool double thread design sadly. I have a set of hand-made clamps like this (not as pretty) but I am too stupid to use them without constantly making them crooked .
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Feb 6, 2021 23:46
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Bloody posted:my table saw has developed a new feature where if it is plugged in it is running. I think I'm never gonna use this saw again lmao My table saw also has this feature! I have it attached to a remote controlled outlet (which I unplug when I'm not cutting poo poo with it).
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Feb 8, 2021 14:37
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This may be a bit afield of woodworking, but I've been messing with making little plant labels out of scrap I have laying around. My handwriting is hot wet poo poo so I've been testing a few different methods of transferring reversed (laser) printed text onto wood. The first method I've tried is printing on acetate sheets (you can also do it with regular paper but I found the acetate worked better), lightly wetting the wood with acetone, and rubbing. This method can yield good results but it's extremely temperamental, particularly with how fast the acetone boils off. If you get the amount just right it's a clean transfer but you end up with a poor transfer if there isn't enough acetone and a lot of bleeding if there's too much. I can't dial it in well enough to really use it as one in three or four gets a good result.  (the black blobs on the last one are from me messing with methods of touching them up) The more consistent method seems to be using water based polyurethane on a reverse printed sheet of low weight printer paper. The transfer always starts off pristine, but you need to remove the paper with water and abrasion after the poly has dried and I've had a hell of a time doing that cleanly without accidentally removing parts of the text itself.  I'm guessing it would be a little easier using a toner cartridge that isn't on death's door so I'm going to try that as well as letting the poly completely cure before trying to remove the paper, but I was wondering if anyone had messed with this and managed to get consistent results.
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Feb 21, 2021 16:27
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Thumposaurus posted:I used to do toner transfer for etching PCBs all the time. The best method ended up being using glossy paper (magazine pages work well) and a clothes iron. more falafel please posted:Yeah, I've had pretty good luck transferring toner to wood using just heat. My little basic wood burning kit came with a tip that's just like a 1" flat circle, so I've used that, but I bet an iron would work just as well. I had been avoiding heat as the last time I tried a heat transfer (on cloth ~10 years ago, admittedly) it was a nightmare. My new toner cartridge came in so I gave transfering off of glossy acetate with heat a try. I started with an edge banding iron but a smaller one I had around (for doing curves and poo poo) was easier to apply pressure with and worked better. I was able to get a clean transfer consistently after loving around with it for a little while. Thanks!
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Feb 22, 2021 00:19
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CommonShore posted:You could also order a quality Lee Valley Japanese style roundover plane for less than you'd pay for a shite router. I use an ancient set of cornering tools like these all the time because I'm an idiot and they're idiotproof as long as you keep them sharp. I'm guessing there are less expensive sets somewhere. Even at that price it's 1/16, 1/8, 1/4, 3/16 for the cost of a decent roundover plane. Speaking of idiots, is there a good guide to sharpening planes for idiots somewhere? I have 10 or so inherited planes (the ones I can identify are mostly Stanleys) that haven't been used in 40 years and they're all dull as poo poo. Wallet fucked around with this message at 15:00 on Feb 23, 2021 |
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Feb 23, 2021 14:54
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