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Any tips for sanding a ton of these efficiently? They are around 4" square. I'm dreading doing em by hand, but can't find any tools to assist easily. The flat parents aren't so bad as I have a 2" sanding disc meant for turning, but that doesn't help me with the 2 column pieces. And the rounded corners are a pain. Maybe something for the dremel I'm overlooking? I have a few of the stone grinders but even at high grit they are too aggressive. Additionally, I wanna add magnets to the sides and the 3/8" countersunk style seem ideal.  Anyone know where I can buy these cheap in bulk? Cheapest I can find is 25 cents each. Which isn't terrible, but if I decide to do a bulk run of these that could add up fast.
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May 23, 2019 21:32
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Angle grinders can be pretty scary. Check out Stumpy Nubs recent video about some serious damage they can cause. Especially if you are using it for carving like he was. Guy almost lost 4 fingers. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A7xWHEWov8M He has a followup video showing a guy who ended having one climb up into his neck. Granted normal use is safer than what they were doing, and that chainsaw disc is pretty menacing, they can still pretty easily hurt you even with proper safety gear.
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Nov 28, 2019 22:57
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I have a Shapeoko 3 and love it. Admittedly I haven't used any other CNC routers. The only issue I've really had is the odd job will disconnect mid way and you have to restart from scratch, which wastes time cutting air while it catches back up to where it failed. (I've dabbled a bit in manually editing gcode as speedier solution). This however is rare, and I've read can be resolved by buying better USB cables and lowering electrical interference. Which is something I need to try. That's using Carbide Motion (their custom app) to send the code. Its possible other controllers can resume easier. Another thing I plan to explore, but since Carbide Motion works 95% of the time I haven't had a huge need to do that yet. I can also confirm, even as a hobbyist, get the larger one. I originally got the Shapeoko3 base size and having only a 16x16 cutting area can be a pain. It's rare I cut larger pieces so I thought I would be fine, but even batching out smaller items I wish I could do more in a single job. I plan to buy the XXL upgrade kit later this year. I also highly recommend the touch probe. I wish I had bought it sooner. And regarding the LLC, I also went this route. I mostly do craft shows and some etsy sales and i've still found it beneficial. A few big jobs can add up and mess with your personal taxes. Being able to expense tools, and supplies, and even your shop space, can be a real benefit. Another user here recommended you show a profit the first few years, and my accountant said the same thing. My first year I came in at a slight loss as I had bought some tools and he ending up removing those from my claims to show a small profit. In the end I paid $19 in taxes, but he said it was worth it to avoid an audit. This was in Canada though so your mileage may vary. keep it down up there! fucked around with this message at 18:01 on Dec 19, 2019 |
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Dec 19, 2019 17:58
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I use spar urethane for coasters. It's typically dry to the touch overnight, but does have a bit of a smell for a couple days as it fully cures.
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Dec 23, 2019 17:02
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After about a year of saving from craft shows, Etsy, and other side jobs I was finally able to purchase a SawStop Professional. I figured If I was going to upgrade I might as well go big. Unfortunately, the shippers would only take it as far as my garage, and I have a basement shop. So I bribed a friend over to help me take it down the stairs by hand, which was quite the ordeal as the saw is drat heavy. I really should have got a furniture dolly in retrospect, but we managed it 1 step at a time and taking a few breaks. Now today my shoulder is just shot, totally stiff and in a good amount of pain. I think I pulled it or something. SawStops are dangerous and will hurt you!
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Feb 21, 2020 19:45
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I just finished this commission for this massive pixel cutting board. Nearly 20"x20". Over 5kg. 576 pieces of wood. Maple, Roasted Maple, and Pau Amarello.  I need to work on my clamping technique. I glue each row of 24 pieces into strips, then those strips go through the planer and get glued up into a square. A few rows are out of line and I think it was because I had too much clamping pressure and it squeezed the pieces. Luckily the customer was expecting some variation as I warned them this was a tough glue-up. In the end, they were pleased.
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Feb 24, 2020 23:15
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Been making a lot of pixel cutting boards lately after one of mine was featured on AGDQ. I never thought I'd be making a wooden Kenny from South Park, but who am I to argue with a commission.   Pretty happy with how it turned out. The orange wood is Paela and really pops after oiling. In making these boards Im chewing through a lot of 80 grit sanding discs. Has anyone tried these carbide ones?  https://duragrit.com/DuraDisc-Carbide-Sanding-Disc.html I see Stumpy Nubs recommending them but I've never seen anyone else discuss them. It's hard to pull the trigger for $50 USD on a gamble.
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Mar 4, 2020 18:15
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Sorry I should have given more detail. I flatten it on my CNC using a 1" surfacing bit. So I'm not using the 80 grit for any kind of flattening. But the CNC still leaves lots of tool marks and sometimes some burning as its hard to dial in perfect feeds and speeds when the wood type changes every cube. A drumsander would be ideal, but that's an even bigger investment. Currently, I go through 2 80 grit discs, 1 per side basically. I do use one of those rubber blocks to declog them, but they eventually wear down anyways. Then I do a 120, 220, and 320 pass on all sides. I've tried starting with 40 grit, but the scratches that leaves are worse than the router bit/burning to get rid of. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Nice cutting board! Thanks! I use these ones from Lee Valley so not sure the actual brand. I'm not super unhappy with my process cause even going through 2 pads is only $2, I was just curious if others had tried those carbide discs. keep it down up there! fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Mar 4, 2020 |
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Mar 4, 2020 21:46
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Graniteman posted:I bought a 120 grit disc last June based on the stumpy recommendation... Thanks for the review, seems like I should just stick with normal pads and either look for higher quality ones or upgrade my sander.
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Mar 5, 2020 19:56
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Does anyone have a recommendation for a dust cyclone that isn't the dust deputy? My new DC has a 6" intake and I'm having a hard time find anything compatible that isn't outrageously expensive. I am in Canada if that helps.
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May 25, 2021 15:15
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Numinous posted:It did hurt though paying like $140 for something that amounts to probably $40 in plastic. Yeah this part frustrates me, especially since I would need the XL one which is $320 and still only has a 4 inch port, though I could hack it together I guess. I found this I may go for  https://www.busybeetools.com/products/portable-cyclone-separator-craftex-cx-se.html It's only $80 more than the XL Dust Deputy with the current sale and has the right port sizes. I'd need to drive a couple hours to get it though. Thanks for your help everyone.
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May 25, 2021 21:24
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drat that is brutal. I added my 240 lines myself and it really wasn't hard. Electrical can be scary though so I wouldn't blame anyone for not wanting to do it. I lucked out in that I wanted the outlets right by the breaker box (basement shop), so I didn't have to deal with actually running the lines around the house. Since I was turning my entire basement into my new shop I did have an inspector come and verify it was good though. Weirdly enough he only had an issue with some of the 120 lines that were already there. I guess the previous owner/builder used the wrong breakers and he made me change them. This was free, but it took a few weeks for the city to send him out. I imagine that may depend on your municipality.
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May 27, 2021 04:31
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I built my own as well. I don't have pics handy, but I made a mobile sanding station on casters and put an old box fan with filters in the base of it. So it's effectively a rolling filter cart.
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May 27, 2021 19:36
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Suntan Boy posted:And yeah, double check to see what kind of power source it needs. Nothing sucks quite like buying and hauling home a heavy rear end machine only to discover you can't even turn it on. This happened to me when I bought a wooden bandsaw off Matthias Wandel. I knew it was 240v going in but it took me a few months to get 240 down to the shop and it was brutal seeing that thing daily and not being able to use it. Taunting me constantly. I would second don't cheap out on a bandsaw though. I thought for years I could get by on cheap benchtop versions and kind of treated it as a niche tool for certain tasks as it wasn't that useful to a lot of woodworking. Boy I was wrong. A well-tuned bandsaw with a moderate capacity is incredibly useful in so many ways. keep it down up there! fucked around with this message at 04:37 on Apr 21, 2022 |
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Apr 21, 2022 04:34
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I've built his box joint jig and while it was a bit of a pain to make it was well worth not having to deal with dado blades anymore. Turns out I mostly used them for box joints. I've also bought plans for his big bandsaw, but haven't made it yet. It's a project I want to take on but it's hard to justify fitting a 2nd bandsaw into the small shop.
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Aug 28, 2022 04:59
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Sockington posted:I need to figure out a decent under-mount bench vise setup. I’d love that twin turbo one, but hard to justify it with my level of usage. I wouldn’t mind loading it on some rails that it could slide on under my bench to make it a little more useful for different projects. John Heisz has plans for a wooden version if you want to make your own. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LnbY0eHZ0CY Plans: https://ibuildit.ca/plans/twin-screw-gear-linked-vise/ Another common DIY version is using scaffolding legs/leveling jacks.
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Oct 19, 2022 14:57
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The trick is to be ultra lazy like me and use the same round over bit size regardless of what's best for the project.
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Nov 4, 2022 15:52
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I've got a job that requires me to clean up both sides of around 400 or so 3/4-inch holes. Nothing extreme, I mostly need to break the edges. How stupid of an idea is it to put a round over or chamfer bit into my grill press? Obviously a terrible idea for real routing applications, but given the light load and lack of lateral forces, I'm debating trying it. Alternatively, any other ideas? I was looking at ball nose sanding bits but that would curve the wrong way. This is looking like it won't be a one-time job so anything that saves me time could add up huge over the next year or so.
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Nov 13, 2022 23:27
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Get a good, high quality countersink bit. A drill press won't get to a high enough speed to let a router bit cut well. Great idea. I guess It didnt occur to me they come this large. Thanks everyone!
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Nov 14, 2022 01:03
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Serenade posted:I have been given a thrift store tablesaw, a Makita 2708. It needs a clean up, a blade, blade guard, riving knife, and fence. Blade is easy enough. Blade guard and riving knife I suspect just need a compatible one. But a fence is much more subjective. What makes a good "first" tablesaw fence? I used the MicroJig splitter on my old saw that was also missing a riving knife. I think it worked pretty well as a substitute. https://www.microjig.com/collections/mj-splitter Frank Howarth made some custom splitters for his saws out of wood. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zNXuYlwI8N0 Video is pretty old but you can still see them in use in recent ones so they must work well enough.
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Nov 14, 2022 04:56
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My SUV was in the shop today getting a winter tire change, so I decided to take my wife's hatchback to get some wood from my local supplier. They were running some great black friday deals so I managed to save about $200 on some walnut and padauk I need for upcoming projects. While loading it into her car I smashed my thumb between 2 pieces and my knee jerk reaction slammed one into the windshield shattering it. And that's the story about how I lost $900 buying wood today (maybe less with insurance, we'll see). Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I have this one and it's pretty decent: https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/drill-bits/41012-82-countersink?item=44J2101 I grabbed this exact one and wow what a workflow improvement. Thanks again for the recommendation. This has saved me an insane amount of time. I found if I set my drill press to max speed it makes a really nice chamfer that I don't need to sand at all. keep it down up there! fucked around with this message at 06:07 on Nov 26, 2022 |
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Nov 26, 2022 05:50
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Just a Honda Fit, nothing fancy, but it has that lane detection tech (which we don't even like) so a replacement looks like $1100 with online calculators. Will have to get a real quote Monday at a few places and call insurance and see what's up.
keep it down up there! fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Nov 26, 2022 |
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Nov 26, 2022 22:40
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For those without large arbors, Matthias has a screw advance box joint jig for a regular table saw blade. https://woodgears.ca/box_joint/jig.html It's sadly not the quickest thing to build though.
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Dec 1, 2022 16:40
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I'm in the market for a new ROS. I think it's time to buy a nice one as my orders have increased a fair bit this year and Im sick of sanding with a heavy one that makes my hands numb. Plus the dust collection is a real issue. Has anyone tried the new 3M Xtract sander? I saw Stumpy Nubs raving about it. The cost is similiar to the Festool ETS EC 125 im also looking at. Im sure either way I won't regret it but figured I'd ask here before dropping the cash.
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Dec 21, 2022 19:25
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stabbington posted:Can't speak to the 3M, though it looks a lot like a knock-off Mirka and I know those are quite well regarded. The one thing that stands out compared to the Festool is the lack of detachable/replaceable power cord, which may or may not be an issue for you. I can definitely speak to the quality of the ETS EC 125 - at least with a festool vac on it, the dust collection is frankly incredible. Still have to wipe stuff down after sanding, but the amount of particulates that actually end up in the air is (at least empirically) ridiculously low. I feel like I kick up more dust easing the edges of stuff by hand. That's awesome. I do have a Festool dust collector so I may just go that route. Especially nice since I can walk into lee Valley and buy the ETS EC in person. The 3M I'd have to order from the US.
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Dec 22, 2022 16:57
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I usually just screw a wood screw in. Then anything that's dried up usually comes out with it. That only works if the hole is small enough to be a snug fit though.
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Jan 4, 2023 05:47
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Calidus posted:Hazah! I didn’t ruin the butcher block Great job! I'd keep that offcut and make a cutting board that nests into the sink for messier cutting jobs.
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Jan 14, 2023 22:15
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That's a nice 2nd bandsaw. Speaking of bandsaws. I've finally ruined most of the blades Matthias gave me and I need some new ones. Does anyone have a recommendation for Canada that won't break the bank? Specifically I need 112"
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Jan 20, 2023 03:31
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Thanks everyone! Lots of options there.Meow Meow Meow posted:R&D bandsaws is where I get all my blades, they weld them to whatever length you need and they are top quality. This place is actually local for me, awesome. keep it down up there! fucked around with this message at 15:50 on Jan 20, 2023 |
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Jan 20, 2023 15:40
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I need to buy some new bandsaw blades and have a question about sizing. I measured around both wheels with a flexible tape measure and got approx 116.5 inches under tension (current blade is still attached). However, Im not sure if I should get 116 or 117. I don't think I can order in .5 increments from my local supplier. Or maybe I need to look elsewhere. Any insight? 
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Nov 8, 2023 17:24
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Somehow I doubt this plywood bandsaw has a manual…. Correct. This is a homemade bandsaw. One of Matthias Wandels, actually. So no manual haha, I did email him but he couldn't remember the blade size. His guess was 112 but that's clearly too small. There is still a fair bit of travel in the tensioner as it's just a gear and a spring. So sounds like 116 or 117 will work. I could use a few different TPI so maybe I'll order one of each and see what works better for the future. Thanks, everyone.
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Nov 8, 2023 18:02
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deimos posted:Once you figure it out, sharpie the number to the upper wheel. Great idea! I ordered a 116" so we'll see how that goes.
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Nov 9, 2023 04:04
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I do a lot of laser work as well but figured this wasn't the ideal place to post it in the past. As my business picks up I find the sanding process is slowing me down the most (doesn't it always). I am curious if anyone has tried sanding small 3mm thick plywood parts on a drum sander. I really just need a single light pass with 220ish grit to clear off any residue and make the parts feel nice. My parts are as small as 20mm x 20mm x 3mm. keep it down up there! fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Mar 20, 2024 |
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Mar 20, 2024 16:44
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Yeah fair. Since I sell stuff its always a tight line of sharing and not being a schill. For more details, I make a lot of board game accessories from veneered plywood. Some of the parts are small gears with numbers engraved on them. Examples of the type of items:  Currently I use a ROB sander, which isn't awful but if I can increase productivity with a thickness sander that would be nice. Lee Valley has a Laguna one I was eyeing. https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/power-tools/sanders/115861-laguna-supermax-16-32-drum-sander-with-open-stand?item=03Z1632 But that's a huge investment if its going to ruin the parts or send them flying.
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Mar 20, 2024 17:11
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Appreciate the insight everyone. All the parts are small, and yeah taping them down would be more work than doing it by hand. I don't mask with tape for the same reason, weeding is just way slower than hitting them 1 by 1 on the ROB. Sounds like sticking with hand sanding is the best bet. For anyone curious, here are some finished items.       I mostly make addons for games like Gloomhaven, MTG, D&D, etc. Looking to expand greatly this year now that I have a good workflow and a new laser.
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Mar 20, 2024 18:57
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My Spirit Otter posted:what kind of laser are you using? 100W Aeon Mira 9. I was using a Glowforge Basic at the start. It died after about 250 hours or so. Their repair facility was being moved at the time so they sent me a new unit for $750 rather than dealing with a repair. I was paranoid after that and never ran it at full power, as I had read it lowers the tube life, and tracked every job time length in Excel. It died again after 197 hours. Now they want $1700 to ship it back, have it repaired, and then shipped back to me which could take a few weeks. I only paid $2400 originally. So that was the last straw. I 100% regret ever buying that thing. Luckily when things started to pick up I was already researching replacements just in case. In the end I went with an Aeon Mira 9. A huge upgrade for sure (that Im still paying off). A large reason for it was their Canadian location is very local to me and they can overnight parts/handle support in person. Ive been using it rather heavily since August with zero issues and very happy with it. Meow Meow Meow posted:Cool stuff, I wonder if one of these V-drum sanders or flatmaster sander would work, you run the piece over like a jointer, so it would be pretty quick to sand doing one pass with a push pad. I've only ever seen home built ones, but appears like you could also get commercial versions. deimos posted:A flap/brush sander would probably work. (you'll have to figure out some work holding) These do seem more ideal for what I need. Especially that kit. I bet I could make the opening much smaller and quickly pass items over it with a push block. Thanks! keep it down up there! fucked around with this message at 07:00 on Mar 21, 2024 |
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Mar 21, 2024 06:56
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 23:43 |
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Hard to tell for sure based on just shavings but the base still looks finished to me. Be sure to scrape with the grain, if you get long clean shavings that are lighter than the previous layer/finish you should be headed in the right direction.
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Mar 28, 2024 05:33
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