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Preggo My Eggo!
Jun 17, 2010

no broccoli please posted:

Is ammoon one of the reliable Chinese knockoff brands? I'd hate to have to stop playing by myself no longer lonely to replace it, even at that price. Or would it be worth getting a Ditto for under 100?

Not sure if this is helpful, but here's a recap of my looping experience and I'm really glad I did it this way.

My first looper was in a multi-effects unit that I got to start experimenting with effects. It had a few different looper options, including one that had a single foot switch (so I had to double-tap sometimes) and another that used two of the foot switches (so one to record/play and another to stop). This worked fine for a long time.

Eventually I wanted to get a delay pedal, and for various reasons I got the TC Flashback 2 which happens to have a looping function. It's a single foot switch, so it works exactly like a regular Ditto. I almost never used it that way, because I hated double-tapping.

After a bunch of research, looking at all different options, I decided to go all the way and get a Boss RC-300. It's got 3 loops, each with their own independent stop & start switch, rhythm, effects, expression, and loop syncing. Perfect for anybody from total beginners to pros. I waited until I found one used on reverb for $375.

Like I said, I'm glad I did it this way. I never spent any extra money on loopers, I got to practice different arrangements, and I ended up with the end-all-be-all of loopers.

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Preggo My Eggo!
Jun 17, 2010
Is there a reason you wouldn't get the MXR Iso brick instead of the DC brick? https://www.jimdunlop.com/mxr-iso-brick-power-supply/

Preggo My Eggo!
Jun 17, 2010

Turbinosamente posted:

No, that's the thing, It's hard to google poo poo when you don't quite know what you should be asking. As in, what are the specs one should be considering when looking at power supplies? I was able to find out the difference between an isolated supply and not, and that isolated is better, but then why do non isolated ones exist?

I feel you. My view of it is that isolated is more expensive but better, and since the cost isn't stupidly high it's worth it just for the longevity. Having a high-quality fully isolated power supply will make it easy to add more pedals and grow your board without worrying about the power. Onespots probably aren't TOO bad on noise, otherwise people wouldn't use them at all, but having just a little less hum will make it nicer to play every single time you play.

I personally have the MXR iso brick. It's great, easy to tuck underneath the board so it's out of sight, and it provides all the power needs I'll really ever have. It even has some adjustable power outlets so you can give more or less voltage to an individual pedal, in case it's one of those pedals that sounds better/worse with a dying battery.

Preggo My Eggo!
Jun 17, 2010
My bass board.

Preggo My Eggo!
Jun 17, 2010
The TC Brainwaves is good too, and the mash switch is fun. You can use it to bend between notes like a whammy.

Preggo My Eggo!
Jun 17, 2010
I'm doing some wacky stuff in my signal chain and it's introducing a moderate amount of hiss. Naturally, I'd like to buy a new pedal to solve the problem rather than try to diagnose and fix the root cause. Is the Boss NS-2 the best choice for that? Any others that people would recommend?

Preggo My Eggo!
Jun 17, 2010
Interesting... any idea how the MXR iso brick stacks up RE isolation? It has an 18v power adaptor.

Preggo My Eggo!
Jun 17, 2010
I like the Boss DD-200. It's stereo, not too big, everything is adjusted by knobs, feels simple to use, and it even has a little display.

Preggo My Eggo!
Jun 17, 2010
A daisy chain might work OK for you but it's silly not to have a proper power supply. The MXR M239 mini iso brick is easy to use and inexpensive. 5 ports so it'll give you some room to add more.

Preggo My Eggo!
Jun 17, 2010

After The War posted:

In my experience, most swirlies tend to prefer high frequencies and, unless specifically made for it, tend to be near-unnoticeable on bass... with the exception of flanger, which is time-based. Even the neck pickup on my B-b baritone doesn't get along with my swirlifiers.

They all have their different sounds, uses, and ideal placement in the chain, but the best one will always be the one that's best for you, your situation, and the song. Maybe I'll effortpost my own experiences later.

With bass, modulation works well later in the signal chain after a good amount of distortion. The basic tone is nice & gritty, then as soon as you kick on the swirly it smooths out. The change is very noticeable in that application.

For context, the only mod pedal I have that's specifically for bass is the BF-3. The Phase 100 and Dimension-C work great on bass, have a really unique and noticeable sound, and they sound different than flanger. There's really a lot of potential with "guitar" modulation pedals on bass, just make sure you have a clean DI there to anchor everything.

Preggo My Eggo!
Jun 17, 2010
Yeah I prefer compressor last. The drive and effects pedals get hit with all the dynamics, modify the tone, then the compressor flattens everything out before going to the amp. To me it sounds a lot more interesting than when I put the compressor first.

Preggo My Eggo!
Jun 17, 2010
I'm looking for a LPF in pedal form, preferably that you can fix at a certain position with a knob PLUS have it be sweepable with an expression pedal. Something like a wah pedal/fixed wah but specifically a low pass filter.

This is for bass playing.

Preggo My Eggo!
Jun 17, 2010
Cool, thanks for the recommendations! I've never heard of either of those.

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Preggo My Eggo!
Jun 17, 2010
Those are cool, I was also recommended So High So Low by Analog Music Company. It has separate expression inputs for LPF and HPF, so it can get pretty crazy.

Ouch, my wallet.

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