|
Guys, I took an Olympus Pen-D out near an Apple store during the iPhone 6 launch. This is the third time I've developed film and the first roll I ran though the Pen-D. I think I'm starting to get better at processing. I mostly just clip the ends of the histogram and then nudge up the contrast, but I really have no idea if I'm increasing the contrast by too much. img119 on Flickr img117 on Flickr img115 on Flickr img116 on Flickr img103 on Flickr img106 on Flickr img098 on Flickr
mulls fucked around with this message at 01:49 on Sep 29, 2014 |
#
¿
Sep 29, 2014 01:45
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 16, 2024 14:38 |
|
|
Grimarest posted:I just developped my first film. hp5+ with ilfotec hc pushed to 800. These portraits are great. I use photoflo, and I have hard water but don't get any water spots. Photoflo is probably the cheapest out of all the dev chemicals, so you might as well get some.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 2, 2014 00:09
|
|
|
I took my Olympus half frame to a music festival. These are all Tri-X developed in HC-110 E according to Massive Dev. It's really fun to try to create an image that spans a frame, either by seeming to continue the one shot or to juxtapose two visuals.  img211 img169Also, sometimes just showing the same scene four times looks cool.  img225
|
|
#
¿
Oct 17, 2014 02:15
|
|
|
I accidentally knocked my Olympus XA off a shelf and now it's metering exactly two stops too slow compared to the light meter app on my iPhone or in my Canon AE-1 Program, no matter the light conditions. I tried a different set of batteries, but I got the same results. Generally, I would just set the ISO control to a different setting, but the control doesn't go high enough to shoot the ISO 400 roll that's in there right now. I'm wondering if it is worth it to try to get my XA fixed or if I should just get a BGN XA from KEH for $99.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 24, 2014 00:42
|
|
|
I'm on vacation and my camera broke. I was packing light so didn't bring a backup camera. I'm going to walk into the Adorama in Manhattan and buy a Contax T xi ASP tomorrow morning to use for the rest of my trip unless you somehow talk me out of it. Are there any other small 35mm point and shoots I should be browsing instead?
|
|
#
¿
Nov 25, 2014 00:48
|
|
|
Spedman posted:Thats an APS film camera isn't it? I can't remember if APS is compatible with standard 35mm. Oh poo poo I think you're right. Their stock of Olympus point and shoots online is pretty slim, and I'm basically stuck with what they have in the store because I'm only in Manhattan another day in this trip. I think it'll have to be a less known brand, like Minox maybe.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 25, 2014 01:04
|
|
|
 This is from the last roll in my Olympus PEN-D before the lens assembly got wobbly and the shutter started sticking open. RIP my Olympus PEN-D.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 8, 2014 04:12
|
|
|
I just realized I've been using a 1% dilution of Arista Hypo Clear in all of my development instead of the 10% solution recommended on the bottle. If I really have to start doing 10% dilutions, then the bottle won't last really long (only enough for about 11 batches at 300ml each). I always use it as a one-shot dilution. I know Hypo Clear is supposed to be reusable, but I don't develop frequently enough to exhaust my Hypo dilution before I goes bad. I'm wondering if using weaker solutions would let me keep using it as a one-shot thing. The color indicator (the one that shows the Hypo Clear is exhausted) usually hasn't activated by the time I'm done washing, so I think I must be getting most of the fix off. Is residual fix going to eat away at my film forever, or is the bottle just recommending that I use more than I need?
|
|
#
¿
Dec 12, 2014 17:26
|
|
|
Here's my first experiment with semi-stand developing with 1:100 Rodinal. I ended up with lots of great looking grain. Also, I was expecting low contrast negs, but I ended up with even lower contrast than I was expecting. I found that increasing the contrast by too much blew out the highlights, but cutting off a lot of blacks with the levels editor helped a lot. Two sample images: img345 img340
|
|
#
¿
Dec 13, 2014 22:45
|
|
|
Primo Itch posted:They said they're setting up with a new partner from England for a new line of Arista Premium. I can only imagine it's Ilford and looking forward for some cheap, re-branded HP5+... Holy poo poo that's awesome. Any idea when that will launch? I'm also counting down till January when the last of the current stock of Arista Premium expires so they'll mark that way down.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 16, 2014 20:04
|
|
|
Here is some Lomography. Arista Premium and Rodinal 1+100 semi-stand. To be honest, I'm not sure the hazy shittiness of the Lomo goes well with black and white film. img375 img382
mulls fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Dec 22, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Dec 21, 2014 21:57
|
|
|
Grimarest posted:^^^ I like em These photos are great. Looks like Delta pushes really well. A lot of people just use their fingers to squeegee off their film while it hangs, which should decrease the chances of water spots. I always wear cotton gloves when I hand-squeegee. I've heard too many horror stories of negative wipers scratching the negative or (I usually hear about this with Fomapan) scraping off chunks of emulsion.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 22, 2014 17:22
|
|
|
pootiebigwang posted:I have a good amount of HC-110 that expired last Feburary. Anyway I can still use this stuff and it not gently caress my negs up? I'd hate to throw it away, but didn't know how lenient that expiration date is. I thought I remember reading that it could last pretty well past it, but don't know if I need to make any adjustments for the dilution. There are some guys on APUG that swear HC-110 is only really old when it's way past expired and brown and goopy.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 3, 2015 07:02
|
|
|
I bought a bottle called a "datatainer" to decant my HC-110 because I'm terrified of all the leaky bottle stories I've read. The bottle for my Compard R-09 by comparison is bullet proof and sometimes I can't open the child proof cap, so basically you should buy Rodinal because the bottle is an heirloom investment piece.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 3, 2015 15:18
|
|
|
Every time I develop film, I screw up some new thing that I have never screwed up before, and it's only ever really negatively affected one roll that I can think of. And seriously, I've screwed up a lot, including pouring out the developer too early and then mixing a new batch to finish off the the roll before moving on to stop/fix.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 8, 2015 21:43
|
|
|
HC-110 is a great developer, but it's too viscous to measure easily, it smells kind of bad (worse smelling than fix and stays on your hands longer), and the bottles it comes in tend to leak. Technically, you're supposed to dilute the HC-110 into a stock concentration (which I think solves the viscosity problem) and then dilute some stock into a working solution. The problem there is that the stock solution has a way shorter shelf life than if you left the bottle alone. The bottle lasts for years and years, and some say HC-110 is even better when it turns brown and lumpy after a few years. That said, HC-110 seems to be the most popular liquid concentrate developer around, so there are lots of recipes online for anything you can think of to try to do. It has high acutance while not making overly grainy negs. It also is passable but not exceptional for stand development. To be honest, if I were kitting out a new home development operation, I would start with Rodinal before buying HC-110. Rodinal doesn't smell bad and is an easier viscosity to work with, but it does give you grainier images than HC-110 (but some say it also gives more perceived edge sharpness in high contrast scenes).
|
|
#
¿
Jan 9, 2015 15:40
|
|
|
Maybe my syringes are bad, but it's too viscous to go through the blunt needle and using the syringe without the needle means it doesn't reach far enough into the bottle. I just eyeball it with a graduated beaker, and it's fine. HC-110 is great, so go get it, but fair warning: it smells bad.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 9, 2015 19:32
|
|
|
polyfractal posted:Just tried Rodinal stand dev the other day. It's awesome. High-fiving emoticon for stand dev. 
|
|
#
¿
Jan 13, 2015 05:05
|
|
|
Uhhhh Tri-X has been a wildly popular standby for 50 years
|
|
#
¿
Jan 18, 2015 03:07
|
|
|
Ummmm so the Canon FD 100-300mm f/5.6 lens has outlandishly swirly and dreamy bokeh. Also Portra 400 is like taking photos on easy mode. These were taken with a Canon AE-1 Program. and 
mulls fucked around with this message at 05:01 on Jan 19, 2015 |
|
#
¿
Jan 19, 2015 04:59
|
|
|
VomitOnLino posted:Neat. But that's not really swirly bokeh. It's a little underexposed, but I think Flickr also sharpened it somewhat. I was handholding while on a nature path with some friends, so I had to underexposed. The foliage was really dense, blocking the sunlight, and I was stopped down to try to have a chance of hitting focus, and I was shooting 1/500 or 1/1000 speed to reduce shake. Portra is amazing considering the conditions.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 19, 2015 15:00
|
|
|
pootiebigwang posted:Do people shoot any other color film besides Portra? I am struggling with coming up with an excuse to shoot anything else. Nothing seems as versatile as it. Fuji Superia is pretty good and is half the price without being half as good.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 19, 2015 18:31
|
|
|
Pukestain Pal posted:In case anyone hates money, KEH is doing 10% bodies, 15% lenses, 20% everything else sale with the code SITEWIDE today. I just saved like $40 on a Mamiya TLR and so should you. Discount doesn't work on film tho.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 28, 2015 20:10
|
|
|
So the colors in Portra 400 are as good as it gets. Look at this. Untitled
mulls fucked around with this message at 01:44 on Feb 3, 2015 |
|
#
¿
Feb 3, 2015 01:38
|
|
|
pootiebigwang posted:Tri-X loving rules. Does your 120 Tri-X curl like a motherfucker? Mine curls like a motherfucker even though the 135 Tri-X isn't problematic at all. I finally relented and bought a betterscanning holder.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 21, 2015 02:15
|
|
|
alkanphel posted:Yes it curls like a motherfucker. TMAX and Acros are so much better. TMax isn't much more expensive than Tri-X, and I'm starting to think it's the smarter choice for 120. I like Tri-X's grain a lot more, but 120 doesn't really have grain so who cares if the grain structure is nicer?
|
|
#
¿
Feb 21, 2015 02:57
|
|
|
Stand dev in Rodinal gives a cool glowy effect for the high contrast areas where dark objects meet the sky, and it's great. img562 img566
|
|
#
¿
Feb 22, 2015 21:36
|
|
|
The scanner won't do any harm but I get hand checks anyway. "Hand check" is the magic word so that you sound like you know what you're talking about, and then very rarely you have to follow up by saying (whether true or not) that you like to push your film.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 22, 2015 21:43
|
|
|
Maybe the pin that tells the camera the max aperture or the current aperture setting isn't working or maybe you had depth of field preview turned on which could gently caress with the through-the-lens metering
|
|
#
¿
Feb 26, 2015 03:15
|
|
|
some cameras don't meter right when the DoF preview is engaged because DoF preview stops the aperture down but the meter thinks your lens is at max aperture, so it's getting in f/8's worth of light and pretending it is f/2.8's
|
|
#
¿
Feb 26, 2015 05:21
|
|
|
Generally non-stand development has finer grain and better contrast. If you are worried you blew out the white of the snow then stand in Rodinal will help take the highlights and all the downsides can be fixed after scanning.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 28, 2015 21:05
|
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:I was just using aperture priority, never shot in snow before so I don't know how it turned out. I'll do stand development, assuming Southwest ever gets me give... I'm up to my third cancelation in 5 days. Auto exposure of snow is generally underexposed because the camera is trying to turn white snow into an 18% gray patch. Whatever development you do, you should think about pushing by a stop or a stop and a half.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 1, 2015 00:07
|
|
|
The shutter jams if you try to set the shutter speed without having cocked the shutter, and it basically can't be repaired once it's jammed, and there's like an 85% chance any Fed on eBay will be borked. I want one so bad, but I'm not willing to pay $300 for one checked out by a reputable collector and Craigslist doesn't have any I can check out in person before buying.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 13, 2015 03:42
|
|
|
The best all mechanical beastly camera you can get is the Minolta srT-102. It's not a rangefinder but it's all mechanical and very good.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 13, 2015 13:12
|
|
|
I think Fuji Superia has wonderful greens. Also Portra has wonderful blues. Portra 160 and 400 are both great but be warned that 160 doesn't have quite the same exposure latitude.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 16, 2015 17:36
|
|
|
I did the math, and I don't think bulk loading saves enough money to be worth the time. The big upside to bulk loading is being able to load short rolls so you don't have to burn 24 frames if you want to test a new camera or whatever.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 9, 2015 21:43
|
|
|
When they're fresh it's fine, but the LRs have less consistent voltage over their discharge profile, so your meter may be off once the batteries are 1/3 or 1/2 used.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 29, 2015 10:30
|
|
|
Danggggg
|
|
#
¿
May 15, 2015 01:30
|
|
|
TMZ posted:I developed some film I've been sitting on for a year. Need to shoot more. This is good and cool.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 12, 2015 02:25
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 16, 2024 14:38 |
|
|
 img658
|
|
#
¿
Jul 29, 2015 02:02
|
|