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Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.

spf3million posted:

I set up auto in-service conversions from after-tax 401k to Roth 401k this year. Most of the articles online regarding the mega background Roth imply that folks should be doing after-tax 401k to a Roth IRA instead.

Is one obviously better than the other from an early retirement perspective?

I believe Roth IRAs permit you to take out the contributions (but not the growth) before retirement; however, 401k(s) have much stronger legal protections in case you get sued or something.

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Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.

Pollyanna posted:

Are we sure this will hold? Not that I doubt a lower income after retirement, just that tax rates will remain lower than earlier in life.
It's pretty hard to predict how politics might flow in 30 or whatever years. Maybe income tax rates will go way up for everybody, or maybe they'll go largely untouched and new sources of revenue (like a VAT) will be in style.

But in any case, if you want to move later in life, consider the tax rate differences between the states too.

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.

Pollyanna posted:

I’m under no delusion that the economy will change that much under a Bernie presidency. Politicians are still politicians, and although I’m eagerly awaiting the end of the American oligarchy, capitalism will reign for a long time still.

Let's be honest, Congress will either drop his initiatives or change them pretty vastly.

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.

KillHour posted:

So if you work there for 20 years and make $50k, you'll get $20k/year in pension? Good luck surviving on that.

I'd hope that's in addition to Social Security, at least.

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.

literally this big posted:

Can you just straight deposit cash into an HSA, or does it have to come thru payroll or something?

It does not have to come through payroll, although IIRC you can save on Payroll tax too if you do.

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.

Ancillary Character posted:

When did you do the conversion? I think you have to file Form 8606 if you did it in 2019, but if you did the conversion in 2020 for contributions for 2019, you can wait to do so when you file taxes for 2020.

The conversion will be counted in 2020 even if you do that. So you'll have to file 8606 both years (2019 for the contribution, 2020 for the conversion).

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.

KillHour posted:

The contribution and conversion both happened in 2020, but I applied it towards my 2019 contribution limit.

But even if you do a prior-year non-deductible IRA, the conversion takes place in the current tax year. So you'll have two 8606s:
1) For 2019, indicating the non-deductible contribution and
2) For 2020, indicating the conversion to Roth

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.

Leperflesh posted:

The bluer skies are a reduction in smog. But, even if we eliminated 100% of car travel worldwide, that would not be enough to reverse the climate change trend. We have to get entirely off fossil fuels for our energy supply.

People have been predicting the end of the world since forever. This isn't to say that there are not serious fundamental problems and it might not finally happen, but the future is notoriously hard to predict. Maybe someone will finally figure out nuclear fusion, or the next pandemic will kill a couple billion people in overpopulated parts of the world allowing for some environmental recovery.

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.

Tortilla Maker posted:

Can anyone point me to a primer on backdoor Roth IRAs?

I need a really dumbed down overview/explanation.

Backdoor Roth IRAs are used in cases where either you are above the income limit to make a normal IRA contribution.

Everybody can contribute up to $6,000 annually into an IRA (more if you're over 50), but only some people are eligible to take advantage of preferential tax treatment. Both traditional IRAs and Roth IRAs have income limitations (although traditional IRA limits only apply if you have a workplace retirement program like a 401k). If you do not meet those limits, you can still contribute to a so-called "non-deductible IRA." This is essentially just a traditional IRA, but when you file your taxes, you are not eligible for a deduction and instead you need to file form 8606 to denote the nature of the contribution.

Once you've made the non-deductible IRA contribution, simply call up whoever manages the investment and tell them you want to do a "Roth IRA conversion." This is a common request and they'll send you some paperwork to fill out. (A few places like Vanguard even permit you to do it online, IIRC.)

You will also need to file form 8606 if you do a Roth conversion in a given year.

As long as the amount in the account as equal to or less than your initial investment, the Roth conversion will be tax free. Note, however, that if you have any other IRAs (except Roths), that this gets messy and you may owe tax.

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.

Guinness posted:

FWIW, I max out my 401k as a traditional, and max out a (backdoor) Roth IRA.

I also do this. Even if we assume the government will need more revenue than the current tax system provides in the future, it's always possible they may turn to a VAT or some other method of raising additional revenue. (IIRC, most every other country has a national VAT in addition to income tax.)

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.

Mu Zeta posted:

Biden does want to overhaul the 401k system to help benefit lower income people

https://www.rollcall.com/2020/08/24/biden-retirement-proposal-would-upend-traditional-401k-plans/

It's funny because I don't have a 401k at all so I can get hosed I guess

So if you're tax rate is high (say 40%) but you get, say, a 25% credit, doesn't that mean you're potentially get double-taxed on a portion of your IRA?

Also, I'd have to wonder if all the states would follow along (i.e., implement a credit as well)? Otherwise you could potentially either get double-taxed at the state level, or you have to do 8606-style carry forwards every year for each state. Seems annoying.

(And I know your pain, I spent most of my working years so far at a small company that couldn't be bothered to even setup a SIMPLE IRA, and I even offered to do the legwork.)

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.

Ropes4u posted:

People should be forced to save through payroll deductions, how and where is beyond me.

Rather than requiring you to opt-in, there's been a push in some areas to have 401(k) deductions by default, unless you opt-out.

(Obviously doesn't help anyone who lacks access to a 401k.)

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.

Oscar Wild posted:

Defined benefit plans would be optimal but there isn't enough of an incentive for businesses to grant them right now, and congress lacks the desire to offer legislative incentives.

Like pension plans? I'm not sure I trust some of these companies to be around that long, and people seem to get screwed when those are handed over to the PGBC.

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.

literally this big posted:

While there are a lot of banks offering high yield savings accounts like this with lots of restrictions and activity requirements, I don't want to have to actively think about my accounts on such a regular basis, and then suffer negative consequences if I don't live my life in a way that satisfies their requirements. So I looked and I compiled a list of all the no-bullshit super high yield savings accounts on there, and I've posted about the a few times before.

Essentially, I've found several high yield savings accounts paying 3-5-6% APY on FDIC-insured cash. The only real catch is each account only earns that rate on the first $1,000 or so (and about 0.5% on everything after that). One of the accounts is $1k@6%, six of them are $1k@5%, and one credit union offers both a $500@5% and a $3,000@3%, for a total of $10,500 FDIC-insured cash across 8 banks/credit unions earning ~4.5% interest, for about $480/year. Once set up, these accounts require virtually no maintenance, other than automatic ACH transfers and withdrawing the the interest on occasion. None of these accounts are restricted to any specific state or geographic region. Some people dislike the $10,500 cap and the large number of accounts, some people really like the ability to save up to $10,500 cash, FDIC-insured, that earns equity-like returns. That's up to you.

Since you linked that Doctor of Credit page, I'll post the accounts that I've found on there:

FYI Service Credit Union is apparently currently offering a $100 signup bonus

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.

Inner Light posted:

Are paper checks still really the standard for this type of transaction? I'd hope in TYOOL 2020 we would have a viable alternative. I don't have any paper checks.

You can always go down to Walmart and get a money order, or use Plastiq (fee applies).

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.

Capt. Awesome posted:

Trying to figure out what to do with an old nondeductible traditional IRA I've got floating right now. Originally put in $5500 back in 2016, stuck it in VSTAX or whatever, and then promptly forgot about it. I had planned on backdooring it or something, but never figured it out and didn't do it. Fast forward 5 years, and it's worth ~$10500 or so. Looks like I have about ~$500 or so in dividends, and another $4.5k or so in capital gains.

Now, if I wanted to roll this to a Roth, so I can start doing a backdoor Roth on a yearly basis, I'm not sure what I need to do from a tax filing perspective, since it's not the same tax year. I'm not sure if the regular 8606 form works as it's from so many tax years ago, or if it requires amending previous returns, etc. Also not sure if it makes a difference if I do it this year before year end, or do it next year. I know I'll need to pay ordinary income tax (22%) on the $5000 it's grown, which would cost me somewhere around ~$1100.

IIRC, you'd file an 8606 this year and basically subtract the prior basis from years back from the amount you converted to Roth, and that amount would be taxable.

Keep in mind if you have any other non-Roth IRAs, this becomes more complicated.




On another note, does anyone here have any suggestions for/against Solo 401(k) providers, or have they done Solo 401(k)s that permit voluntarily post-tax (not Roth) contributions?

A few friends of mine and I have 401k(s) at work and have been talking about this as a way to increase retirement contributions from our individual respective side-gigs. SIMPLE/SEP IRAs are not desirable due to lower limits and since they complicate backdoor IRAs.

Small White Dragon fucked around with this message at 06:55 on Dec 29, 2020

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.

GhostofJohnMuir posted:

i'm trying to determine the best tax advantage account setup for my personal situation

my employer doesn't offer a 401k or similar benefits, but i do have access to a roth ira through the state of california's calsavers program. the investment options for the fund are rather limited, but they offer a total market fund, the fees are low, and i appreciate the program having a pretty seamless experience of changing my contribution rate on the state website and my employer automatically changing the amount they directly deposit into the account without any extraneous paperwork

next year i anticipate earning about 37.5k pre-tax and maxing out my roth ira for the first time in my life. this comes out of some pretty strict personal budgeting, so i don't expect this amount to increase outside of annual raises going forward. i'm not carrying any debt. based on the low earning potential of my chosen field, i expect to be working past 65

First off, congratulations, you are way ahead of the game for most people in your situation.

That said, I am not familiar with CalSavers (although I also worked at a place in CA without any sort of retirement benefits offered) but if that doesn't work for you, you can generally open an IRA somewhere else and have it auto-debit your account on a certain day.

GhostofJohnMuir posted:

recently i've become aware of the potential benefits of an hsa, and i do have a hdhp that would qualify me

i'm considering opening an hsa through a brokerage, maxing it out, and then putting the tax savings and the remaining money into the roth. i'd plan to hold off on taking withdrawals from the hsa until 65, with the plan to essentially treat it as a traditional ira with the additional benefits the hsa offers for medical expenses acting as a sweetener. am i correct that the setup most likely to yield the best long term returns?

This is a great setup if you're healthy enough to benefit from it. You can take money out now for medical expenses and it's totally tax free.

Two things of note:
1. Does your employer allow direction contributions to an HSA? Because these may be exempt from FICA (social security and medicare tax) if so.
2. California does not adhere to federal tax law for HSAs, so those contributions (and any growth) are not tax exempt on your state return.

GhostofJohnMuir posted:

i know i'm in a low tax bracket now, and i pray that i'll be in a higher bracket later in life, so the roth has some advantages, but my understanding is that a traditional ira is generally superior if you're re-investing all of the tax savings. also is the roughly 5 year delay for when penalty free withdrawals can begin with an hsa vs a roth something i should be concerned about?

I think the tax bracket that would matter is when you retire, and do you really expect that to be higher when you retire?

Opinions will vary, but I think if the tax rebate of the traditional IRA enables you to put more away, then you should pursue that.

As another sidenote, you might be able to claim the retirement savers credit. (I think you can subtract out HSA and traditional IRA contributions and some other things when calculating income subject to it.). Probably worth looking into, might net you a free couple hundred bucks.

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.
I'm curious, what would people consider "a conservative mix of stock and bonds" for the last box?

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.

If I have the option to plow a bunch of money into a Roth 401k + Roth/backdoor Roth (or a mega-backdoor Roth 401k), is there any reason NOT to go that route, assuming the fund options don't suck? (As compared to other saving/investment options.)

Small White Dragon fucked around with this message at 08:25 on Jan 15, 2021

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.

MJP posted:

My wife is getting a promotion and a raise, and it puts us to the point where we have reduced Roth IRA contribution limits. Good problem to have :gbsmith:

If you're at a high-earning point in your life, you MIGHT be better off with some of all that going towards traditional pre-tax 401k contributions. If you're maxing that and if you don't have a lot of money in traditional IRAs, start taking advantage of the backdoor IRA on top of that.

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.

MJP posted:

We have yet to both hit the $19,500 per person 401k contribution limit. Should we both be maxed before looking into backdoor Rothing?

Assuming you're hitting the max of any available match, it's really a personal preference.

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.

Pollyanna posted:

I have about 300k in various IRA, 401k, and post-taxed accounts, and apparently without further contributions it will grow to like 300% of its initial state assuming 3% yoy until 2055. I’m considering lightening up on the non-401k/IRA contributions so I can get a nicer apartments. 401k and IRA contribs have to continue tho, cause that’s apparently a pretty light amount of money without the additional contributions.

Very nice. How long has this taken you, and has it been at a fairly consistent annual investment amount?

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.

Roumba posted:

Why do some 401(k) plans/providers allow after-tax contributions, but not all? I imagine they would want as much of my money as they can get, but they choose not to sometimes?

I believe it's a fairly recent option, and it's not offered by default in a lot of plan prototypes. Also, by allowing contributions beyond the $19,500, you open yourself up to "means-testing" problems (where you may have a problem if the plan too heavily offers highly compensated employees.)

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.

Raskolnikov2089 posted:

If my new job doesn't have any employee match for 401k, should I just focus on my Roth first?

This depends on your income level and the quality of funds available in your 401k. (And maybe also if you expect to move when you retire.)

If the funds in the 401k are not great (or have high fees), then definitely Roth.

Otherwise:
If you are early in your career and you expect your income to go up, the Roth is probably advantageous to lock in the low tax rates now.
On the other hand, if you are in the peak earning years of your career, the pre-tax 401k is probably more advantageous.

Beyond this, if you expect you might move in retirement, consider the relative tax rates. For example, if you live in California (a very high tax state) but think you might retire to Nevada (a very low tax state), the pre-tax 401k is significantly advantageous.

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.

The Big Jesus posted:

Yea BUT THEN WHAT

Enjoy yourself

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.

bawfuls posted:

The max annual IRA contribution is $6000. If you are putting 25% of your paycheck into an IRA and not going over the annual limit then you are presumably making less than $24k/yr. Your present tax rate is thus quite low and you should absolutely put it into a Roth instead of traditional IRA. Congratulations on being able to contribute to a tax advantaged account while making so little, that’s not easy.

If you are really funding an IRA with that low of an income, do make sure to claim the Savers Credit.

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.

jokes posted:

I can also mirror the sentiment that doctors think they’re good at also every thing else. Lawyers to a lesser extent. Holy poo poo doctors are the worst with money though, Jesus Christ. They end up being “fine” financially but if they would pull back on the ego for like a second they’d have so much more money when they’re old.

Doctors and lawyers are pretty much all the bad examples in the Millionaire Next Door.

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.

pmchem posted:

I made an semi-effort post over in the stocks thread about SCHX, the Schwab U.S. Large-Cap ETF: https://www.schwabfunds.com/products/schx

It's kind of a compromise between VOO and VTI. I really, really like it. I encourage anyone choosing their broad US market index fund to check it out and consider it.

I've heard about SCHG, I'm trying to figure out what the difference is.

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.

Herr Tog posted:

Thank you so much, could I move it to a trad IRA with a credit union and still pick stocks I am invested in?

Others will undoubtably comment on the stock picking aspect of this, but just to note two things
1) Don't do this if you might ever want to do backdoor Roth IRAs. You'll get a tax hit in the conversion.
2) In the unlikely case you get sued or declared bankruptcy, 401ks have stronger legal protection than IRAs.

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.

punk rebel ecks posted:

I guess what I'm really asking is would it be better for the government to just issue everyone 401k accounts rather than just focus on increasing social security? Social security is a big part of the deficit whole 401k would be far cheaper for the budget.

It might be useful if everybody knew how to manage their 401ks, but most people don’t so even if they have one, they might be badly managed/invested.

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.

Space Gopher posted:

Cuts to public higher education driving tuition increases way over inflation really hosed the past couple of generations in a unique way. The good news is that state and federal support is so low, the pattern can't continue!

You say that, but I'm sure universities will find new and exciting expensive things to waste money on.

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.
Although not quite as high, tuition increases at private, non-profit universities have also vastly outpaced inflation, which suggests there's probably more at work there.

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.

Absurd Alhazred posted:

And I'm going to be honest, I'm not comfortable with using weird loopholes (some of which should have been closed by Build Back Better, apparently!) to get more tax benefits.

Honestly, and we can bitch about tax law all day, but a lot of this was caused by a loophole abused by the ultra-rich that the final versions of Build Back Better didn't actually close.

...But then again, seems like claiming to close tax loopholes while actually making sure the ultra-rich are unaffected seems to be the MO for a lot of Democrats these days.*

* this statement is not intended as an endorsement of any opposing political party.

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.

nelson posted:

It’s less paperwork and better for cashflow to use it for expenses but if you are already maxing out your other tax advantaged accounts and have money left over it is better to pay cash and save receipts to take out the money later.

What's the advantage of waiting, vs taking it out now (tax-free) and then re-investing it somewhere else?

Maybe it's just me, but I worry about remembering expenses and still having legible receipts for them many years down the line -- plus possible changes to tax/health law.

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.
Any reason not to roll an old solo 401k into the 401k of a new job?

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.

Vesna posted:

It's the investments in my former employer's (non-Fidelity) 401k that are all sitting at the 0.4-0.6% range, so I feel like it'd make sense to roll them over to my current employer's Fidelity plan and shove them into the same mix?
We have a 401k with Fidelity now and most of their fund options' fees are in this range. :(

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.

Not a Children posted:

I recently had a pow-wow with my 401(k) administrator (through Vanguard), a service offered for free through my employer. I've been lucky enough to be able to consistently max out my 403(b) and Roth IRA, and am trying to chart the best course for early retirement. Since I started my career I've been using pretax 401(k)/403(b)s, and ROTH IRAs as is the general wisdom. The advisor I spoke to was of the opinion that because I can afford it I should contribute to a Roth 403(b) rather than contribute with pre-tax income to reduce my taxable income in the future. I'm in my mid-30s, so it's not unreasonable that I'd be making more later on.

My employer offers after-tax contributions with immediate rollover to a Roth - the mega backdoor, which is an amount of cap space I could make substantial use of but would not be able to max. Between a modest contribution to that and my Roth IRA, is that a good balance, or is there a reason to go full ROTH on all vehicles? My reckoning is that having access to the principal without penalty before I hit 59.5 years is a good hedge.

Happy to provide more detail if that's helpful.

I personally like to hedge my bets and do a bit of both (except for IRAs, which are all Roth to avoid messy conversions), especially since my income now is probably higher than it will be in retirement. Also, while I don't expect it to happen, there's always the possibility that a future Congress could gently caress around with Roths, whereas it's highly unlikely and logistically difficult for them to go back and take away your deduction from many years ago.

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.

Jabarto posted:

I worded that poorly, I was shocked to see a 401k with such low fees. 401k's tend to be lovely in general and getting 0.08 on one is amazing. I have a target date fund at Fidelity that's at 0.2%

Which fund is that? Fidelity charges us a 0.65% fee for their "Fidelity Freedom" funds, which seems high to me but not obscenely high.

Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.

SamDabbers posted:

Fidelity is sneaky. They also have "Fidelity Freedom Index" target date funds which are the same asset allocations as the "Fidelity Freedom" ones but composed of their low cost passive index funds instead of the expensive active equivalents.

That doesn't help you if your 401k only offers the non-index versions but if you're buying it in a Fidelity IRA/HSA/other tax-advantaged retirement account, make sure to get the index version.

I'm kind of curious what Fidelity 401k users here recommend.

Here's the options we have. (Large image I had to stitch together, so I won't link it inline.)

Normally I'd go with the target date fund, but 0.65%?

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Small White Dragon
Nov 23, 2007

No relation.
(I also just noticed the BrokerageLink option, which I don't think was there last time I checked.)

drk posted:

FXAIX +
FSPSX +
FXNAX

will make a perfectly reasonable three fund portfolio.

Thanks!

CubicalSucrose posted:

All-in FXAIX depending on your age and risk tolerance and rest of your portfolio and target asset allocation.

Or pick a target date fund and never think about it again. 0.65% kinda sucks a lot but if it keeps you from touching it, could be good.

A lot of my 401k is pre-tax, but I do also have a smaller Roth IRA, much of which is invested in Vanguard ETFs (and a couple older mutual funds I invested in when I first started, although now I'm thinking I should ditch those). IIRC, the old adage is you should keep the more aggressive stuff in Roth.

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