Metalworking, Machining & More: Peen around the hole, then drill and tap it

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > Metalworking, Machining & More: Peen around the hole, then drill and tap it

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cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

I've finally come to the conclusion that the tool I really want is a mill, and luckily I can beg use of the ones at work on occasion. They have a big old Bridgeport-type jobby as well as a little 5 axis Matsuura and a massive (8x4m bed) Asquith 3 axis. Problem is though, I want to learn to mill manually first, then progress onto the cnc ones.

Where can I learn about milling? I can't get on a training course at work as my job doesn't justify it, but they'll let me play if I'm already trained/competent. I'm starting from scratch, no question will be too stupid for me to ask.

# ¿ Oct 1, 2014 12:47

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# ¿ May 12, 2024 04:53

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

BlankIsBeautiful posted:

The joggle is just to stop the rod sliding back out isn't it? It doesn't need to be identical, just impossible to slide back out, and small enough to rotate in the slots (I assume that's how you insert it). Heat and bend, three bends to get back to straight. Not too complicated.

# ¿ Nov 21, 2014 12:29

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

I recently cajoled, persuaded, lied and deceived my way into getting the machine shop at work serviced, for the first time in 22 years. Ajax mill, Harrison M500 lathe, surface grinder, cylindrical grinder.

There were 4 gears missing from the thread cutting gearbox of the lathe, only 1 of 5 drive belts still intact, power feed clutches were all knackered & bodged together, chuck jaws were junk, the manual rack on the surface grinder was missing half its teeth, the cyl grinder needs a whole new tailstock, none of the mill position displays work.

It seemed a shame to have these machines going to waste, I also got a couple of the apprentices interested in keeping it up to scratch later.

One of the machines also had "Thump to start" written on the control box.

# ¿ Dec 12, 2014 22:58

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Machine a couple of passes with your tool width set to different values until you get it correct? If you have a vernier caliper it might be possible to accurately measure your tool width as well.

# ¿ Mar 21, 2015 23:56

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

That sounds like a fantastic day and I wish I were free to do the same.

# ¿ Apr 25, 2015 12:54

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Random Number posted:

just get a wt/dry shopvac since you can also vacuum up dog poo poo, cat puke, offal, etc and just hose the fucker out later.

What the gently caress sort of shop are you running there? :catstare:

# ¿ May 5, 2015 09:02

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

ANIME AKBAR posted:

That's cool as hell, especially the bending. I wonder how much time on that machine costs? It could probably do over a hundred pieces an hour for me.

One thing about a metal enclosure that concerned me was that sharpness of the edges, since this is something people would sometimes want to handle by hand. Are there also ways of smoothing out the corners and stuff?
Yeah I'm sure that finding solid answers will require just picking up the phone and calling a ton of places. Thing is I know they're going to ask for drawings, but I only know what I want the final shape to be, and I'm not sure what the best way to form it out of metal is. I'm thinking a U-shaped shell, but I was really hoping I could get away with not needing any screw heads sticking out, but that would probably be avoidable.

If they're only contactable by phone they'll work off a fagpacket sketch of the finished product and they figure out how to make it. As for edges tell them what you want. They'll deburr or grind as appropriate.

# ¿ May 12, 2015 14:47

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

It's incredible what you can get done if you don't have the internet to distract you.

# ¿ May 31, 2015 22:09

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Kasan posted:

Motor should be spinning at 1750 rpm and direct drive on the belt. If you can't direct drive, set up your gearing to have a 1:1.

Pulley size?

# ¿ Jun 15, 2015 11:54

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

You can bake the rods to get the moisture out though, if you don't know how long it's been opened it's recommended.

# ¿ Jun 16, 2015 17:57

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

I want the matchless and Indian logos. What's wrong with them?

# ¿ Jun 18, 2015 20:10

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Ambrose Burnside posted:

Pop cans are well known for their chainsaw resistance.

No wait, it's mountains. Mountains are known for their chainsaw resistance.

# ¿ Oct 6, 2015 19:25

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

I did one of the fellas at work this week a scrap note for an 18" section of train track (we had some from an old RGV project) he said he was going to make an anvil out of it. Is this a thing or is he deluded?

# ¿ Jan 30, 2016 11:27

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

TerminalSaint posted:

Very much a thing. A less than ideal, but completely workable thing.

Well that explains the tree lump in the back seat of his car.

# ¿ Feb 1, 2016 22:34

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Sealey supermig 180: how much would you pay for one without a gun or accessories?

# ¿ Mar 1, 2016 12:24

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

AbsentMindedWelder posted:

So I'm not familiar with that brand or welding machines across the pond in general, but I would advise you to look up the cost of the gun and your accessories, subtract that from the cost of a new unit, then take a ~50% discount for used poo poo, and there you go.

That seems reasonable, thanks.

Any UK goons who can advise on a cheap starter mig? I need to make a trailer frame for starters, I've someone at work who can teach me in the meantime.

# ¿ Mar 2, 2016 08:14

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

AbsentMindedWelder posted:

I would NOT advise a beginner to build a trailer using a cheap starter MIG. You are begging for failure. You need a machine with some balls and some welding experience to ensure good fusion before you start welding on stuff that could injure somebody. If you DID take on such a project I'd urge you to do it with stick welding, and to do destructive testing on test pieces first.

With this advise and a look at my schedule I'm dropping £500 on a brand new pretty-close-to-what-i-want certified trailer rather than £300-400 on parts plus welder plus accessories plus stock plus learning to weld.

I'm still going to learn to weld at work.

# ¿ Mar 4, 2016 14:35

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

If you leave off one of the lower side braces you can easily put stuff under there if needed.

# ¿ Mar 24, 2016 08:45

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Random Number posted:

Would y'all be interested in seeing a solar panel deployment and pointing device for cubesats in this thread? It's in the spirit of the thread, but not the letter (there's not much metal).

If there's a general tinkering thread I'll throw it in there and link to it.

There is a catch-all post your projects megathread if you want more coverage.

# ¿ Mar 26, 2016 23:36

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

BedBuglet posted:

So, about 5 lbs sits evenly balanced on a lazy Susan ball bearing. The internally toothed gear sits inside the ring of the ball bearings. It's rotating horizontally so the gear wouldn't have to bear any of the weight, only rotate it fairly slowly.

It's a turret style base that is aiming a directional antenna with stepper motors. The gear will handle horizontal aiming. Acrylic would probably work fine. I don't think I'm going to strip the teeth with the speed and weight I'm working at. The teeth can also be fairly thick because the angle doesn't have to be perfect.

It's for a uav project but, if it works well, might also build a nerf gun turret.

Plywood will also work well for this and is super easy to cut.

# ¿ Apr 20, 2016 15:25

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

My local steam preservation society has a number of mills and lathes sitting in the great outdoors protected by little more than grease and fallen leaves. I'm sure when they need them in 10-50 years they'll clean right up.

# ¿ May 26, 2016 21:11

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Ambrose Burnside posted:

hmmmm

Yeah, I'd like to rescue them but they're a little on the large side for me. And not for sale

# ¿ May 27, 2016 21:39

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Ambrose Burnside posted:

I think I can get a hold of a " 28" hydraulic two-way cylinder and 220V power-pack in good working order, on a custom-built cart" for a song this weekend, albeit sight-unseen. Came from a metalworking shop that did bigger steel stuff. The cylinder is apparently unsecured (beyond the hydraulic lines connecting it to the power pack), and the cart is just to facilitate moving it around. One end of the cylinder has a big round hole perpendicular to the cylinder travel, some kind of mounting point, and the other end of the cylinder terminates in a flat face. The cylinder is described as long and relatively narrow, guessing a bore in the neighbourhood of 2". No tooling or anything else accompanies it.
What was it likely used for? What approximate pressure is it likely to be able to exert, based on this extremely scant information? I don't have much more to go on, not even if the 28" is the travel or overall cylinder length, but the fact that it's a 220V power-pack and the context it's coming from suggests either fast travel or high pressure to me. I'm perfectly willing to pick this thing up and then stick it in storage for a couple years until I can make better use of it, but if it's exerting less than ~15-20 tons of force it won't be of much use for either forging or die-forming, what I'd be interested in using it for.

Possibly a "jack" for a press or bender. See if you can find the cylinder bore and pack working pressure, this'll give you the working force it's capable of.

# ¿ Jun 23, 2016 06:25

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

I have a question I'm woefully under-qualified for, I hope you guys can help.

At work we have amongst other treasures a Harrison M500 lathe. The operator requested new gib slides for the cross slide and compound slide so I located and bought them. They were labeled for the M450 but I was assured the only difference is bed length.

Operator installs then, compound is perfect, cross gib is too thick, tapers too quickly. He'd have to grind 1-2mm off it on two sides to get it to fit so we assume it's wrong and return it.

New supplier, new criss slide gib, labeled for the M500, exactly the same issue.

So now I suspect the operator needs to do something to the gib or our slide is subtly different somehow.

Suggestions?

# ¿ Jul 28, 2016 06:27

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

AbsentMindedWelder posted:

I am am woefully under-qualified as well for this specific issue, however first question that pops in my head is why did the operator request new gib slides in the first place?

Ran out of adjustment on the current ones (not enough meat left to drive further in and take up the slack)

Yooper posted:

We maintain some ancient equipment and see variants of this often. What was proper at date of manufacture was revised at some point in history. Someone like Hardinge is pretty good about tracking those changes. Smaller manufacturers... not so much.

When it comes to stuff like that we apply something like Torlon or Glacier DX to the worn out gib and scrape it in. A Biax scraper would be overkill for this, you'd be fine with a hand scraper.

Problem is to get any further use out of it it would need to be longer.

As far as I've learnt new gibs get scraped in as described, then cut to length. Current one is already cut with no adjustment left, new one required from 1 to 2mm scraping off its entire length which seems excessive, I was under the impression scraping in took microns off the high spots only.

Thanks for the help though guys, I'll see if I can find anything out about mid-series variants

# ¿ Jul 28, 2016 21:29

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

We thought about that but our surface grinder doesn't do tapers and we'd struggle to shim and support it at the right angle.

# ¿ Jul 29, 2016 12:08

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Ambrose Burnside posted:

I wanna get some really compact sharpening/honing solutions to keep in my toolbox at school for fine-tuning lathe bits and mills and such. I think the smartest thing is to pick up some of that 3M adhesive-backed honing film- couple bucks per sheet to replace a whole bunch of expensive n bulky stones, sure, absolutely.
Question is, what's a good substrate to stick the film to? Glass would perform great but it'll get broken really fast in a toolbox. Wood's too soft and water will make it fucky, plastics -might- be fine but again they're soft. I think some pre-ground tool steel flats might be the best idea, I'm just concerned that they'll be prone to deforming if dropped unless they're thick enough that they're prohibitively-heavy to be dragging around all the time.

Thick polycarbonate should do you and not be too heavy or "soft"

# ¿ Nov 13, 2016 21:57

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

For something as heavy and bulky as a lathe get used to the idea you have to sort shipping or collection. It's that simple.

# ¿ Dec 15, 2016 20:45

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

How much work would it be to make those dies for an Arbor press? The characters could be hand stamped then you'd need a die set for each key size/shape but it's doable.

Now I want to do this in bronze.

# ¿ Dec 29, 2016 16:24

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Nice miniature spanking ladle.

# ¿ Jan 5, 2017 22:56

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Apart from thermite I'd say OA is the worst choice. Anything else would be less risky.

# ¿ Jan 24, 2017 11:34

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Over build and run under pressure. If you design in a massive safety margin you can make a working steam paddle ship that's hilariously inefficient even by early steam standards but will be safe.

# ¿ Jan 28, 2017 00:57

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

I'd love to see a group of hardworking experts bootstrap from a hole in the ground and a fire up to a fully tooled machine shop, like the primitive technology bloke but a team going balls out.

# ¿ Apr 21, 2017 21:47

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

When you say "round" do you mean compound curve?

# ¿ Jun 20, 2017 10:00

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

shame on an IGA posted:

https://youtu.be/s1i-dnAH9Y4

thank you for this

# ¿ Sep 14, 2017 20:31

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Holy poo poo Ambrose. $2.50?

# ¿ Nov 4, 2017 17:11

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Brekelefuw posted:

How does someone get so amazing at stuff?

Would you like to know the secret?

hard work, dedication, care and perseverance

# ¿ Feb 28, 2018 17:31

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Brekelefuw posted:

Yeah but how do I skip all the necessary steps and just instantly become good?

Just buy my series of books and overpriced tools...

# ¿ Feb 28, 2018 20:05

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Eek, there's not a lot of meat there to work with is the. How thick is the gear/plate from the side? Could you drill into it from the edge and install hardened pins for the pinion to act against? You'd have to find a length of hard rod the right diameter and dismount that part to drill it from the edge, hammer the pins in and braze/weld them in.

# ¿ Mar 21, 2018 21:33

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# ¿ May 12, 2024 04:53

cakesmith handyman: Jul 22, 2007; Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

The new one doesn't have to be 11 gauge (3mm?) If you want to go thicker. Get something harder as well if you are making a new one, there are no end of grades of steel to choose from. Hope you've a good supplier.

# ¿ Mar 22, 2018 15:36

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > Metalworking, Machining & More: Peen around the hole, then drill and tap it

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