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A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

oxbrain posted:

Anyone who says they can't find workers isn't paying enough.

In my experience with machining, and the trades in general, it's a combination of too low starting pay and terrible work conditions. It's basically McDonalds, only it requires more skill, it's your boss and coworkers treating you like poo poo instead of the customers, and you make an extra $1/hr.

Once you've got the experience and skill you can get into a better shop, but by then you've weeded out the competent ones.

Coming in off the street with little to no experience making 12/hour, getting overtime, health insurance etc, isn't too little, I don't think.

Also, I think there's a lot more opportunity to make better money than a goddamn McDonalds. Never mind learning relevant skills if you're interested in manufacturing.

A Proper Uppercut fucked around with this message at 19:25 on Mar 20, 2015

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A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

Kasan posted:

Average living wage in Mass for a married couple, no kids is $16.37/ hr (each). Average living wage for 1 adult is $11.31. This assumes no amenities or entertainment. Just what it takes to survive. That $12/hr isn't all that attractive to anybody not living with their parents or a ton of roommates. You said it yourself, you've been there since highschool, well paid since 18 and 31 now. You just don't have the outside view of somebody who sees $11/hr and thinks "well, I can only eat 1 meal a day and maybe get by."

Welcome to the land of opportunity :smith:

When I started working here I was making $9/hour. You can't just walk into a place with little to no experience and expect to make $20/hour. If someone could come in here and actually show some initiative, they would be making a lot more very quickly. If they have experience already they would be starting at a higher wage.

Mohawk-

No one goes to school for waterjet, at least not in this country. The only experience you're going to get on that is working a previous job and they send you out for training, or you learn on the job. I don't think what would technically be an apprentice would be starting at 36k. Also, I think you're making a lot of assumptions with that Google result.

Same goes for I would think the vast majority of machinists in this country. There's no official certification to be a machinist. You can take classes and poo poo, but even then those are few and far between from what I've seen. You can go to school for Mechanical Engineering or something like that, but most of those students actually don't have any practical experience.

So I have to disagree with your paper is more important than experience. Go to any smaller shop <50 people, they're not going to give a poo poo if you have a degree, they want you know to how to make parts, or at least show aptitude and the willingness to learn.

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

Well, I don't set the wages, I just work here. I don't necessarily disagree with you, but the thing is anyone who's applied has never walked away because of money. As far as I know he doesn't advertise the starting wages in any ads he places.

I also feel a lot of people are very bad at thinking longer term, there's a lot more growth opportunity here than at a McDonald's.

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

Pagan posted:

If minimum wage had kept pace with inflation it would be at least $10 an hour. If it had kept pace with wealth growth at the top, it would be around $18.00 an hour. That's what an American **should** get paid for entry level work.

I would consider the type of work you describe to be like a more physical version of IT work. Technical and computer savvy needed, the ability to use CAD software, along with the ability to run and maintain a complicated machine. Plus you'll be getting messy. If you compare what workers like that are getting paid in MA these days... well, those employers are offering a lot more than 12 an hour.

Someone who knew how to do that stuff already would be getting paid 18+. Someone coming in with no experience it's not going to happen. I'm not saying it doesn't suck but the whole manufacturing sector is pretty hosed up.

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

Random Number posted:

I'm a trained machinist with loads of experience under my belt, not waterjet, but cnc programming and cad work galore. I have a degree in engineering tech and I wouldn't consider that job for less than 50k a year with 40hrs a week and benefits.

Just to give you the perspective of someone well qualified for the job.

E: I also live in western mass so I know about cost of living here.

Yea, sounds about right, pretty much in line with what I said earlier.

But someone coming in with little to no experience or training? Ehhhh

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

MohawkSatan posted:

Is it going to improve quickly enough to make a decent living? Call it three months until a wage that isn't lovely, and only barely above living wage. If no, then long term doesn't matter, because short term you're getting hosed.

If long term to make a decent living(so a bit above living wage) is measured in years, then it may as well be a dead end job, because you're gonna be paying the debts from the shut wage for a looong while

Well I honestly don't know what to say then. How much should an entry level person, essentially an apprentice with no experience, no training, and a big risk on our part putting in the time and investment in training, make?

When I first started working there, i had gotten 3 more dollars an hour in the first year, because I worked my rear end off. Most of these entry level people are in their late teens and early twenties, still living with their parents, their cost of living is generally not that high. Older people who would apply generally already have experience and would be making more.

Edit: if we could get a good voc kid in, he would be making more, because he knows what he's doing. Also, water jet isn't nearly as challenging or require as much proficiency as toolmaking.

A Proper Uppercut fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Mar 20, 2015

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

Karia posted:

Looks like an ER32 collet chuck for workholding, it doesn't seem appropriate for tool holding. I'm curious what made you decide on ER rather than 5C. The collapsible range and wide availability, I'd guess? The disadvantage I see to the ERs is that you can't hold short parts because they collapse evenly along the whole length. 5Cs collapse just at the end so you only need 1/8-1/4" to get a decent amount of holding force.

Expanding collets are amazing, too, really useful. Where are those from?

I use expanding collets to hold a few different parts at work that would normally be impossible to hold. They're pretty cool.

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

EKDS5k posted:

Crossposting from the tools thread in AI:

I decided I needed a service cart at work, but the affordable ones are garbage, and the good ones are too pricey. Fortunately for me, when we get scaffolding that is bent in one spot it is no longer usable even though the rest of it is perfectly fine, so I decided to combine that with some of the leftover stock plate steel we have just sitting around collecting rust.

After a few hours of playing with the sawzall and welder, and I have this:



Probably the most heavy duty cart I've ever seen. The whole thing is 10 gauge steel, with the legs made out of steel scaffolding frames (I didn't realise two of them were galvanized until after I started, so I used an angle grinder to take off as much as I could from the spots I was welding). I didn't take a picture of the underside but the top table is supported by 1/8" thick 1" square steel tubing. The casters I stole from a new box, and are rated for 750 lbs each. So when you consider the safety factor built into scaffolding, I can probably get over 2 tons on it without buckling. Downside is that it weighs like 150lbs, but our shop and yard are pretty smooth, and the casters are 8", so it rolls no problem. Overkill? Maybe, but I got the materials for free, and I managed to sneak in a little bit of work at a time over a couple weeks so actually I got paid to make it.

All in all it came out pretty good despite not having any kind of jig to hold it while welding or even a chop saw to make straight cuts.

Painted green because Sunbelt:


We have a bunch of the more expensive store bought ones at our shop, but that is beautiful, well done!

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

Brekelefuw posted:

The tap size I need to make is not a standard size. 19.1mm x 0.7

I also need to make an acorn die to cut threads in a hole that is much smaller diameter than a standard die will fit. Acorn dies and die holders are hard to find and cost a lot of money, so I figured I would just make my own.

I am tapping brass only.


Also Ambrose, can you tell me where to get some of that wool stuff people use to insulate while they are heating up metal? Is there a supplier in Toronto?

Is there any reason you can't just make them out of high speed steel? It should be simpler and cheaper, and any tap and die I've ever used has been HSS. Especially if you're only using it with something soft like brass.

Also, out of curiosity, did that makers mark punch thing I made for you a while ago work out for you at all?

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

Brekelefuw posted:

I thought hss would be harder than o1 to cut. It was only $7 per foot of 3/4" .

Those punches work amazingly. I have been stamping nickel silver with them with no issues.

I suppose it would be harder to cut, but you wouldn't have to harden it. I honestly have never machined it myself.

Also, good to know about the punches!

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

JaucheCharly posted:

Sry for the bad pic, battery is almost gone. This is how they look.



If you look at this:



I'd need "s" = 40mm and "h"=2mm, one version convex & concave like in the link in my previous post, the other toothed. Can't tell yet how many teeth per cm and how deep. Need to fetch the manual.

The steel should have between 50-55 HRC, 1mm thick. If you have problems finding that stuff, I'll get some good cabinet scrapers and we can work with that. Softer isn't good. Working horn dulls it really quick.

That looks like it could be suitable to either waterjet or wire edm, depending on your tolerances. That's what we do over here where I work. If you want you can shoot me a PM or an email at wdevine07@hotmail.com with more detailed info

Edit: Though cheaper than the $30 or whatever on that website isn't going to happen.

A Proper Uppercut fucked around with this message at 18:04 on Sep 29, 2015

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

JaucheCharly posted:

Ok, great. It doesn't need to be super precise. 10 teeth per inch, 2mm deep. What sum can I expect per piece? If the results are good, I know a group of people who will want some.

When you say teeth, do you mean straight teeth like a gear, or pointy? My only worry with the waterjet would be the teeth are gonna come out like crap.

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

JaucheCharly posted:

Guys, maybe one of you can help me out. I'm looking for a set of specially shaped toothing irons, and also the same forms as cabinet scrapers. One of you with access to a cnc or something like that could make some for me, I'd pay good monies. We'll talk about the specifics if you're interested.

They'd look like the convex/concave scraper like in the link.

https://www.dictum.com/de/werkzeuge...ernumber=703536

I'm case anyone is interested, I made these pieces up for him, just shipped them out. Came out pretty good I think.

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

oxbrain posted:

How about one year of manual machining at trade school and stepping into one of those jobs. :smug:

Same here buddy, been at that job for...holy poo poo 14 years.

Edit: Ambrose, I'm not strictly a tool and die guy, but the nature of the machines we have at work means I do work on them a lot. I don't know what it's like in Canada, but from what I've seen down here in the USA, I don't hear much about training programs and the like much. All the machinists I know just started somewhere with little experience and worked their way up. Manufacturing in this country is all messed up.

I have no idea what the point to any of what I'm saying is, but I do know it can be tough, but I would think there are places that will take a guy who's not a dummy and has good work ethic on.

As an aside, the work I enjoy doing the most is working on plastic injection molds. If I had to find another job, I'd probably be looking to learn under a moldmaker.

A Proper Uppercut fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Nov 24, 2015

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

MohawkSatan posted:

Up here, machining is a recognized trade. Which means it requires schooling. Getting hired as anything more than a shop helper without the piece of paper that says you're qualified and won't gently caress things up straight up doesn't happen. On top of that, without getting your Red Seal, your qualifications count for literally nothing outside of your home province. If you were really lucky, someone would hire you at around $4-$5 an hour less than what you'd normally be earning(basing this off of what welders/mechanics/carpenters normally get without their red seal). Your work ethic doesn't count for poo poo, if you never get a chance to work and prove yourself.

Back in the day, machining was a proper trade here, too. Nowadays, when I tell people what I do, 85% of them think I put machines together? It's really sad the way manufacturing has kind of moved into obscurity here.

It's the same way with auto mechanics here. Any bum can open up a shop, or you can usually get a job just with experience. There are classes you can take and everything, but as far as I can tell, it's definitely not required.

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

Pagan posted:

Blacksmithing questions! And some machining.

I ordered a really nice Guillotine tool that holds different dies. Basic use is for fullering dies, but it'll hold anything that can be made out of 2 1/2" by 1/2" plates. It comes with a round die and a flat die, but I'm wondering about some of my own dies made. Curious what I can expect to pay in the US for some simple machine work, and what I can expect as just "some guy off the street" instead of a big corporate client.

Second, what kind of hardy tools are my fellow blacksmiths fond of? I made a hot cut chisel out of a trailer hitch ball, and now I'm curious what other tools would be useful. I looked on ebay, and the only other common tool I see is a twisting fork.

What would the dies look like, exactly? What kind of material? Hard or soft? And whereabouts are you located?

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

Pagan posted:

I'm in Rhode Island, and this is my early christmas present to myself

http://yesteryear-forge.myshopify.com/products/g2-guillotine-fullering-tool-1

Hey cool! I'm in southern Massachusetts (for some reason I thought you were local, though I'm not sure why), and while we don't do any conventional machining in our shop, we send stuff out all the time, and I have a lot of friends in the trade. Those looks like pretty basic stuff. If there's any shapes in particular you're looking for, make up some sketches and I can get you a quote if you want.

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

wormil posted:

Thanks. I had considered buying a used caliper and sending it in if needed but it doesn't seem cost effective.

Digital calipers are actually a lot cheaper to repair from a place like Long Island Indicator Service, don't know how often you see used digital calipers though.

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

Got this giant bushing at work today to split into two pieces, made a quick video because I still think this poo poo is cool after 15 years.

https://youtu.be/euc1lRCbw_U

A Proper Uppercut fucked around with this message at 17:08 on Feb 10, 2016

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

After 16 years of running cnc machinery at work, we're picking up an old but in good condition Bridgeport next week. Should be fun to play with a manual machine again!

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

Rapulum_Dei posted:

I have this awful premonition; lying in the hospital bed, the doctors have said it'll not be long now so the grandkids have been brought in to say goodbye before it's too late. I smile and it turns into a wracking cough, hacking and wheezing before I can catch my breath again.

Little Daisy takes my hand, her fingers gripping tightly. 'Is there anything You need granddaddy?'

I close my eyes, lay back and think of a life well lived and the happy bitter sweet memories of my long dead wife and the joy my family has brought me. Only a single lingering regret remains, only one road untrodden. With a sigh little more than a whisper I slip away with a single word.

Bridgeport

I feel you. First time since high school I get to mill some poo poo. It came today!

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

That is really loving cool.

It looks like that first tap has a turned end to maybe line it up with the existing hole, so yea like a starting tap I guess.

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

shame on an IGA posted:

But really though I think my dentist was a little frightened by how much spergy machinist interest I take in her tools. Especially the first time I saw an endo file tell me everything about these titanium 60 micron hand drills do you have an old catalog I can browse

Holy poo poo are you me?

Especially because we do a lot of medical component work at our shop, I love seeing that stuff.

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

Yooper posted:

Got a cool phone call yesterday in regards to machining some parts for a mega yacht. Not just any mega yacht, but a mega yacht built by Krupp in 1928. If it goes through I'll post some pics as this is a pretty cool looking project.

About once a year we get a call like this. Last year it was for a 1904 French Firetruck. The year before that was parts for a P-51 Mustang. Usually it's some old guy looking for parts for his 1934 Ford Tractor.

'Sup fellow (what sounds like) machine shop employee guy.

Where you located? What kind of machines do you run?

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

Yooper posted:

Hi Dude. Northern Michigan. We've got a fleet of centerless grinders, one CNC lathe, a pack of angry surface grinders, a handful of OD grinders, and a bunch of custom designed grinders. We pretty much do nothing but round parts, the surface grinders are just for us to rebuild our own equipment. There's also one lonely Bridgeport knock-off. We're probably the only machine shop around that spends less than a $100 on carbide per year.

That's cool, centerless grinding is crazy with the tolerances you can hold on long diameters.

We're also kind of a niche shop, we only do Wire EDM. We have a bunch of those, an old Bridgeport, surface grinder, and bandsaw in a corner.

Also a couple waterjet machines in a different bay.

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

Sticking my head in a running wire Edm and touching my metal glasses to the wire. Little spark explosion next to my eyeball.

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

Brekelefuw posted:

It has to be .460 exactly unfortunately.

Maybe I'll bolt a bucket of bearings to my car rim....

Don't know how many you're looking for, or how much you're looking to spend, but maybe shoot these guys an email?

https://www.precisionballs.com/

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

Ambrose Burnside posted:




also got to employ my blacksmith Dark Arts by rectifying a bunch of press-fit parts that other people undersized. "You can put the metal back on, in a manner of speaking", I intone with unearned smugness, flourishing a lovely ballpeen

This is come in handy when I wire a hole a couple thou too big in a fixture or something, except I usually just hammer a ball gage into the top of the hole to roll it in.

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

I can't believe how people over value machinist tools. I regularly browse CL to maybe find some dude retiring and getting rid of his tools, and I see 30 year old mics for $150 bucks, or a gage pin set for $1500.

Also old Kennedy tool boxes probably sell for more now than they did when they were new.

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

honda whisperer posted:

I think a lot of that stuff used to be way more expensive than it is now. According to some of my coworkers the Chinese stuff drove the price of other brands down quite a bit. Idk though, haven't been in the trade long.

Well regardless, I don't know why you would think you can sell measuring tools that old for the same price or more than a new one. Unless it's that whole "they don't build them like they used to" thing, which yes is true in some ways, but not in this case.

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

There's a fair amount of manufacturing up here in New England, you'd think I would see more than a lot of overpriced old stuff like you guys are saying. I've been working at the same shop for 16 years and I never got around to buying my own tools because they've always supplied everything I've needed. Just thinking about picking up some of my own stuff.

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

shame on an IGA posted:

It's pretty ridic to see people overvaluing their old junk by that much when you can get Mitutoyo 103 mikes for under a hundred bucks brand new.

Btw if you haven't you should they're the poo poo

That was my point exactly.

I personally use a set of 101s.

As for measuring tools, as long as it zeroes out, and you can take a couple test measurements on something, I wouldn't be afraid to pick up used mics or calipers.

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

Rapulum_Dei posted:

I wonder has anyone done repeatability tests on the cheap electronic calipers. I know AvE calls them out for being unreliable when the battery gets low but otherwise is it possible they're just as accurate in normal use?

I have been thinking about buying a 'proper' vernier but am I really going to notice any practical difference for my $100?

You really can't go wrong with Mitutoyo, we use these ones in the shop and they are solid, and under $100 https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-Advanced-Absolute-Digital-Caliper/dp/B00WMKUUAQ

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

Volkerball posted:

These are great so long as you keep in mind that they are not coolant proof.

True, though that's not really an issue in our shop. Pretty much anything Mitutoyo and you cant go wrong as far as I'm concerned. We've even got some lovely Phase II mics that I will trust with measuring tenths no problem.

His Divine Shadow posted:

Analog vs digital meters? I have a preference for analog non powered stuff, but is it better, more long lasting? Or no diff?

I am probably gonna want a quality micrometer, dial-indicator and a test indicator. Something very square and flat.

Is there a cheapo way to get something like a big surface plate?

I prefer analog, probably just because I'm used to it though. I'm sure I'd love digital if I picked one up.

Personally, knowing what I know now, and for the work I do, if I was starting out I'd want-

Mic set, 0-3"
https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-103...+micrometer+set

Digital calipers, 0-8" (I don't know how many times I'd had things like 6.5" inches I needed to measure and needed to borrow someone else's longer calipers)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I3UA89C?psc=1

Test indicator (I personally prefer .0001" but I know most people would be more than fine with the .0005"
https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-513...+test+indicator

I see cheapo surface plates on MSC all the time.


A Proper Uppercut fucked around with this message at 13:27 on Apr 21, 2017

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

His Divine Shadow posted:

For me it went the other way, I had digital calipers, but the batteries draining was a PITA, and I felt more unsure if I had gotten the reading right looking at a display instead of a vernier or dial. I have a 150mm* vernier Mitutoyo I bought 2nd hand, it's my only mitutoyo but it's head and shoulders above the others. Vernier calipers should be alright to buy 2nd hand I think, I would like to own a dial indicator too. But I really don't want to own another digital caliper....

* =I'm in finland so metric is prefered but I can do imperial.

With those prices, I am really going to need to find some good 2nd hand sources... My budget is super limited, it will probably take years to accumulate the tools. Perhaps I should invest in a 1-2-3 gage block so I can test out micrometers and other tools.

I almost bought a 2nd hand, very old micrometer made by Mauser in Germany, mostly for the historical bit, but at 20 euros I couldn't afford it.

I don't know what MSC is but we don't got it in Finland, I found one place that sells surface plates and for a 400x400mm it was like 300 euros, 400? Don't remember.

Oh, sorry, didn't realize you weren't in the US. Are these tools for home use or for work?

Edit: searching classifieds in another language is new and exciting, how about these? https://m.tori.fi/vi/35639963.htm

They look old but if they are decent quality they last forever, if you had a gage block you could do some test measurements with that would be a good idea.

MSC is an industrial supply company, do you have an equivalent in your area?

A Proper Uppercut fucked around with this message at 10:21 on Apr 22, 2017

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

His Divine Shadow posted:

Mitutoyo 2406 SB, a good indicator? I can get it locally for 46 euros. Accuracy thousands of a millimeter.

Like this:
http://www.msi-viking.com/Mitutoyo-2046SB-11-Standard-Type-Dial-Indicator-10mm-1mm-per-rev-0-100-Dial-Flat-Back_p_22697.html

Asking since it seems cheaper than other Mitutoyo dial indicators that have been mentioned. IIRC mitutoyo stuff today can be made in China.

Yea I agree with Hooper, that would be fine, assuming that's the resolution you're looking for. Pricing seems on par with what I would see around here.

I generally use .002mm/.0001" resolution but I have to inspect pretty tight tolerance stuff a lot.

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

SwitchbladeKult posted:

6 holes in some 3/8 black iron pipe. It's a real small job and I've never needed to tap a hole before which is why I'm considering cheap taps. I'd just hate if they were all cheap they failed to do the job.

I would think you'd be fine. Taps are cheap as hell if something goes wrong.

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

Rapulum_Dei posted:

'Fail' in this context means snapped off and stuck in the hole which could be fun times indeed. *shudder*

Oh yea. I've become so used to having an Edm to burn out taps at work I forget that most people can't do that

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

sharkytm posted:

Sinker, right? How's that work? You have a custom electrode that's the diameter of the tap shank?



Just happened to take this picture the other day, it's a small hole edm,we have 4 of them. Similar concept to a Sinker, we just have a bunch of electrodes in diameters ranging from .3mm to 6.0mm. Burn out the middle of the tap and it breaks into pieces.

Also note my sweet (crappy) homemade v block

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A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

shame on an IGA posted:

Surface grinder all day errday

Something that big, I'd say blanchard grinding.

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