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honda whisperer posted:I need to find a 5c collet chuck that isn't hydraulicly tightened. Need to hold round stock on a rotary table. What you really want if money is no object is a harig ultra grind 5c http://www.harigmfg.com/ultragrind5cv.html Keep your eye out, you can find them used for about a grand, but they only pop up a few times a year Suburban Tool also makes a real precise 5c indexer, https://www.subtool.com/st/mg5cvs1_master-grind_spin_index_fixture.html Our shop uses a harig for ejector pins and some electrode work. Edit: I realized I sound like a dumbass with my “really want” poo poo. The harig and subtool are just super precise. If you need a tool with good precision for long term use, give them a look. rump buttman fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Mar 26, 2018 |
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Mar 26, 2018 18:40
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What size stock did you start with?
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May 24, 2018 05:23
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Dumb question. For a low production tool room mill, are brushless motors worth ~4% mark up? A replacement would run ~2% with the mill having 3. I’m starting to think it might be worth the difference. Basically, I don’t know poo poo about brush vs brushless from a practical POV. Can a goon help undumb me
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Jul 2, 2018 22:07
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Can anyone direct me to a good beginners guide to carbide inserts? I’m thinking of getting a 3/4 indexable end mill for pockets in tool steel assuming it is cost effective.
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Jul 13, 2018 00:36
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Who are SImplemachines?
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Sep 15, 2018 03:03
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if you keep your lathe well oiled, I'm not sure you could really hurt those ways with l steel, aluminum, copper, brass chips/swarth.
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Sep 22, 2018 23:42
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Are you planning on sticking a rotary table on your mill?
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Oct 1, 2018 04:21
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you need a diamond wheel to grind carbide carbide is really loving tough
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Oct 10, 2018 15:05
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If you are looking at the midwest give tool and die shops a serious look. There are a ton class a tool shops in the region that do very interesting work. One area to check out is around Madison, WI. Lots of shops, really fun town, not far away from Chicago, and cheaper housing than any coast in addition to Northern WI being gorgeous, cheese curds and pre-funking Friday fish fry's before a movie.
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Oct 12, 2018 05:23
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Yooper posted:I see a Madison roadtrip in my future. What is pre-funking a fish fry? Every fish fry I've ever been to in WI has had you wait at the bar before you get seated and in my experience, it's hard not to get sloshed before all you can eat fried food. ymmv
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Oct 13, 2018 00:34
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His Divine Shadow posted:That's a few hundred for a pallet to my garage door. The price including shipping is still half the average price these go for, albeit they are in nicer looking shape. dope as gently caress
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Oct 29, 2018 01:08
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Divine, what sort of floor do you have in your shop?I use a lever and some (homemade and overbuilt) skates to move around smaller machines (hardinge, XLO, harig, crystal lake).
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Dec 3, 2018 03:39
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I haven't used it much, we got it in the 80s, and have sparsley used it in our custom mold shop. The thing is very stout, a real machine tool. We just don't have that much of use for it. It's belt driven.  We joke about a few of our machines being more towards museum pieces than tools we use. We've also got a Hauser jig bore from the 4o's and a deckel pantograph. The Hauser is 8500 lbs and still holds insane tolerances. The deckel is pretty cool, but very tiring to use. We don't really use any of the three machines anymore but that are all pretty dope in the overbuilt machines of yore kinda way. rump buttman fucked around with this message at 02:34 on Dec 4, 2018 |
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Dec 3, 2018 17:41
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The crystal lake design, osha be damned, is a great design for dead nuts grinding. Belts really let the thing purr. Compared to modern machines, it's gonna suck big time. Infinitely so in the jobshop and production side of machining. For toolrooms? They are pretty handy. It's came in handy for us in the past when we've had to make custom cores that needed to be dead nuts or when we have core/pins that are to long to OD with a spin fixture attached to a tool pate on our surface grinder. As far as its duty, it's all relative. Our specialty is plastic injection molds that can fit between 14 inch tie-bars and under 500lbs fully assembled. Most of the delicate parts are under 20lbs. It's pretty loving built for what we do.  1" standard for scale
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Dec 4, 2018 17:04
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frodnonnag posted:Let me know what scales and readout the kit has, i can probably weigh in on the quality. out of curiosity, what is the sweet spot for a DRO kit for Bridgeport style mill?
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Apr 26, 2019 18:03
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Anyone have an HARDINGE HLV-H maintenance manual I can bum?
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Jun 11, 2019 18:01
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Yooper posted:http://www.babinmachine.com/PDF/Hardinge%20HLV-H%20Maintenance%20Manual.pdf Yep, that's the one. I was having trouble googling it for whatever reason, posted here and then realized I should have emailed Hardinge. Thanks! My headstock has been making a little more noise then it use to and I'm trying to figure out if it's a figment of my imagination or some maintenance due.
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Jun 11, 2019 20:55
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Old machines are much prettier than new boxes and that Decked is art. Those old castings are great, and that paint is really showing off the curves. The Deckel is looking great! Keep up the good work Shadow, you're killing it!
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Jul 10, 2019 16:29
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Rapulum_Dei posted:Huh. 240v 3 phase. Didn’t realise that was a thing. yeah, my shop has this. For most old machines(bridgeports, lathes, jig bore, surface grinders) it doesn't matter, but newer machines (EDM, CNC) need transformers
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Nov 6, 2019 22:59
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mekilljoydammit posted:Long shot here - anyone have any good guide to sand casting pattern making? I have non-traditional stuff at my disposal (scale 3d model to account for shrinkage, 3d print pattern) but I'm looking for more how to reproduce a part at 1:1 scale. Put another way, I'm prototyping a part by cutting together two castings and welding them together - I'd like to make aluminum castings from it that are the same size but I know if I just use it as a pattern the castings will shrink, is there a trick to this other than "reverse engineer entirely new pattern"? There are tables for shrink. I mean for me, if I know ABS shrinks ~ .005" per inch. So if I want the end part dimension to be 1", the cavity would be cut to ~1.005". You cut to where the number say while being metal safe and when the mold is done, you take test shots, inspect the part that comes out. Sometimes, you need to go back and adjust the cavity to make the end part dead nuts. There can be a bit of an art to it after you hit your numbers. All I can say is it's not straight formula. As far as reverse engineer it, would you just have to adjust the numbers it's printed to to form the oversized cavity? Just bump your model by estimated shrink, print new, cast and inspect? keep refining until you are making good parts.
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Nov 18, 2019 22:24
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M_Gargantua posted:Depending on your tolerance you can do a sand casting of the physical thing you glued together. that's the smart play
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Nov 19, 2019 18:14
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depending on the dip/paint, you could sand it if you need non uniform thickness for different dimensional shrinks
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Nov 21, 2019 23:39
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Jaded Burnout posted:There's going to be no one size fits all answer to this, but if you were to estimate, when buying a machining tool for the first time, like a hobbyist lathe or mill, what additional percentage of the unit price do you usually need to spend to actually get up to speed with decent gear? Another 50%? 100%? for a knee mill like a bridgeport, If you are a thrifty and paitient shopper, you could beat these prices for precision quality stuff Bare minimum decent indicator $100 quill indicator holder $20 used kurt 6" vice (or similar) $2-400 clamping kit $50 collet set $50 1-2-3/ parrelles, $50 micrometer $100 calipers $50 dead blow hammer $20 HSS endmills and drill bits, $1-25 each for normal sizes, with things like 1/4" double ended end mill being less than $10 real nice fly cutter $30-$50 depending on beef c clamps $20 each need depend on work holing angle plate $2-600 for a real square one. drill chuck $100 or so bore head $100 ? make almost anything/life easier 5" sine plate $200 gauge blocks $100 trokey rotary table/ cross slide few hundred, lots of good ones used DRO $1000 horizontal band saw a few hundred bench grinder $100 I'm sure im missing stuff, but that's how i would think about it. rump buttman fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Jan 28, 2020 |
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Jan 28, 2020 17:05
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His Divine Shadow posted:Good HSS seems to be drying up as it's falling out of favor. I don't know if this is of any help, but HSS end mill I have from poland and israel cut really nice. We got a bunch ~2010. In the last year I bought some inexpensive HSS reamers from travelers(?) that were south korean and cut very nice. I'd bet on your assessment as a general trend though CarForumPoster posted:If we're doing machining tools to get for a mill, I got one that I dont find get mentioned a lot but drat I love this tool: Coaxial Indicator How much time do you save vs just using an indicator, center x, center y (for getting work concentric, or center of a circle), set dials to zero. rump buttman fucked around with this message at 00:54 on Jan 29, 2020 |
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Jan 29, 2020 00:49
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shame on an IGA posted:Thinking back on my apprenticeship, I feel 60% of the utility of a DRO could be replicated by a simple rev counter on the handwheel I agree. I learned without DRO, have made a bunch of poo poo without DRO. Having to double check your count sucks, but you honestly get pretty good at knowing what .200 looks like. I learned on this bridgeport and an XLO without DRO, but the bridgeport did have rev counter/more scales https://imgur.com/a/XBxBTee
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Jan 29, 2020 04:51
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XLOs own bones
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Jan 29, 2020 15:18
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how hard is it to TIG? I have access to one, and no one to teach me. Is it something that is learnable through video, or do you really want to find someone to teach you? I'm mostly interested in learning how to just do build ups when I gently caress up. Ask me why I want to learn lol
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Mar 7, 2020 02:23
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Thanks for the info. I dropped an aluminum block I have hours into and hosed up two corners. It's going to cost me a half day to drop it off at the welders. Stuff like this comes up a few times a year. There's a miller syncrowave at the shop collecting dust I'm thinking about learning. I'm trying to figure if I have the bandwidth to dedicate into getting good enough for simple stuff like fixing small dings in aluminum (6061, 7075) and steel (s7, p20, 4140, h13). I'm leaning towards, I probably don't
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Mar 7, 2020 04:34
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gently caress yeah get a surface grinder! I run a harig 618, and grinders open up so much precision. I don’t use coolant and have a dust collecto set up on it. With a grinder added to your shop you could make you own tools including angle/radial dressing tools. If you are going to spend money, I like Herman Schmidt style dressers best. Grind-All’s are also dope as gently caress and highly recommended tooling for surface grinders. poo poo, next find an Eltee Pulsitron and have your own tool and die shop.
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Apr 13, 2020 14:51
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shovelbum posted:We were discussing small finished barstock pins in the 3D printing thread, what's the like "canon" setup for holding cutting to length say 2-5mm diameter round bar with minimal hassle? Grinder with a cutting wheel Just read the other thread. I’d just make some kind v block and stopper and chop with a dremel cutting wheel. Then figure something cleaver to chamfer. Drill and sanding block? Or if you’d rather spend money, I would go with standard dowel pins https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-dowel-pins rump buttman fucked around with this message at 05:58 on May 10, 2020 |
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May 10, 2020 05:49
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