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I guess this is as good a place as any... After my thread here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3480740&pagenumber=1 I'm the proud owner of a 2002 Impreza TS (wagon). It needs some work, and I feel that one of the most pressing is the fact that the rear left spring is broken at the top. The car has 127XXX Km (~78k miles), and I'm wondering if it would be a good idea to do struts & springs all around the car or not. I.e, could I leave the stock struts and just put new springs on all around, or does everything have to be replaced all at once? I've read a few pages back in this thread, and see that Koni are having a sale until the end of May (?). From Sockingtons' thread (and here), I see he went the route of fitting Konis to his stock assemblies. I'd like to do some autocrossing with my car, and don't mind building it up slowly, starting with the suspension as that needs to be done anyway. If I go this route, what (else) do I need to consider?
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May 1, 2012 19:50
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Alright, I really don't want to be 'that guy', but I'm curious about the mileage my car has been getting. 2002 Impreza TS wagon, 5 speed. I got it in March, and have been keeping gas receipts/log from the beginning. The only change I've made to the car was to put stock 16" WRX rims on it. I forget the tire size, but they're not crazy oversized or anything, and I remember checking to see that they'd have a 1.5% change (at most) on speedometer reading, etc. Anyway, I'm consistently getting 380km/tank, and see that a lot of others get 400-450. All of my driving is in the city. Also, the gas around here is all mixed with up to 10% ethanol (which I know has less 'energy' than straight gas). I only drive a few times a week, so is it also possible that I'm getting a bit of water in the fuel as well? Or is that all BS? I'm thinking of doing plugs/wires as soon as I can, and cleaning the air filter (there is a sticker under the hood saying it's a K&N, which I'm assuming the PO put in), to see if either help. Edit: Checked tires - Yokohama Avid V4S, P205/55/R16, 89V. When I bought the car, it had snow/winter tires on it, and I only had them on the car for a month or less before I found the Yokohamas, so 90% of my driving has been on the one kind of tire. VVV Thanks for the info. I did see stuff about 'winter gas' cropping up in some other threads/discussions when I did a Google search. I'm in Vancouver, BC, so I'm not sure that they switch? Captain McAllister fucked around with this message at 22:16 on Nov 19, 2012 |
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Nov 19, 2012 21:31
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OK, so I ran the averages from my logbook. Usually 52L is when the light comes on, and 400km/tank. That is 7.7km/L, which Google tells me is about 18mpg. That still seems...not so great?
Captain McAllister fucked around with this message at 11:00 on Nov 20, 2012 |
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Nov 20, 2012 10:09
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blindjoe posted:As seen in my thread, I am installing an EJ207. Hmmm...'aircare', not emissions...are you in the Lower Mainland/Vancouver? If so, you might have a few issues. They probably won't like that your catalytic converter has clearly been cut open and patched - the first thing they do is use an inspection mirror to make sure there is one, and they'd catch that first thing. Even with the stock tune, without having a real/functioning catalytic converter, your emissions levels will probably be too high to pass. The guy at the end will take one look at your results, and tell you the catalytic converter probably needs to be replaced. I had an 87/Nissan pickup that didn't have a catalytic converter, and was part of some loophole where it didn't fail automatically, because some of them had actually come from the factory without (mine had the heatshielding in place, though). The only thing that got it through was replacing the cat. Same for my turbo firefly - changed O2 sensor, plugs, wires, distributor and cap, air filter, a whole lot of stuff...my shop drilled a small hole into the cat, and was able to move a coathanger around freely - there was no element at all left. Having the exhaust replaced was the only thing that got it through. Of course, if you're anywhere else...disregard, I guess!
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Nov 22, 2012 02:18
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blindjoe posted:Aircare as in in Lower Mainland. My car is new enough that it just needs to go through an ODB2 scan. My friend used an oven pan as a heat shield once, the car passed no problem. ODB scans can be passed as there is a check box in the tune software to set all readyness indicators to OK. Haha, thought so. I'm in the LMD too. They may or may not use the inspection mirror then, I forgot about just plugging in to OBD2. You should be OK then, if all the settings are clear. A CEL is an automatic fail.
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Nov 22, 2012 02:59
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Neptr posted:Upgraded from my GC 2.5RS to a 2002 WRX with 77,500 miles. lovely cell phone pic with my dad's MS3. Nice score! I have an 02 TS wagon in Sedona Red...it seems to be an unusual colour around here. Also, I initially thought that this picture of was your old car next to the new, until I remembered what a GC 2.5RS was (not some kind of Mazda with a hood scoop).
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Dec 7, 2012 08:40
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kaws! posted:Theres always a cheap GC8 or two with a little damage every week at the auctions down here, I'm sure that you guys get even more up there (albeit probably a bit more wog spec). Don't tell me this means what I think it means...
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Dec 8, 2012 08:45
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My apologies if this has been done/asked to death, but... Will a 3" axelback exhaust for a 2006 WRX Wagon fit onto the stock exhaust for a 2002 Impreza TS? Both cars are wagons, and it is my understanding that the routing for the axelbacks are the same, but everything up front differs (for one, obviously, the WRX has an up & down pipe, and the headers are different). I'm looking to eventually put in UEL headers and have some kind of midpipe made up, but a good deal on an axelback has come up and I'd like to grab it if I can. If it won't currently fit/work on my car (the 02 TS), what will have to be done/modded so it will? I realize this question is kind of rice-y, but I want to let the boxer rumble out!
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Jan 9, 2013 08:24
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Quick question: I've decided I'm tired of having the goofy, low-weight bearing factory roof rack on my car. Problem is, while it is factory, I'm not sure it's the right model for the year:  Most 02s have a bigger rail that clips into the black strip moulding a few inches in from the top of the doors (not really visible in this pic). My rack has holes that go through the roof. I don't mind having the track pieces left behind on the roof, but I'd like the crossbars and mounts off. Should the crossbars and 'towers' just slide forward out of the rails? Or do I have to do minor disassembly? Thanks!
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May 22, 2013 18:25
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CharlesM posted:That's OEM? Yeah, I'll upload another pic later that shows the logos and everything (as well as a close-up of the mounts). It's for an older model Legacy, I think. The car originally came from a dealer, so I wouldn't be surprised if they just put on whatever rack they had at the time. Although, I have seen quite a few others running around town with the same setup. Yakattak posted:I don't own a wagon but I thought the rack went right over those two black pieces on each side of the roof. That's what I'm getting at, yeah, see the pic posted below VVV for how it's supposed to look/where it's supposed to go. I HATE PINK BIKES posted:Yeah, that is 100% not a standard bugeye roof rack or at the very least not mounted how it should be. See this image found from GIS for how it should be mounted: Exactly - like I say, I think it goes on a Legacy, but great and mighty google has been fruitless. Any time I search, I get references to the type of rack you posted that pic of. I know that the one on my car mounts through the roof, and to completely remove it I'd have to take the headliner out, have the holes welded, etc. I'm happy if I can just figure out how to get the crossbars and pillars off. I tried just sliding them out of the tracks yesterday, but they got to a certain point and just...stopped.
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May 23, 2013 19:33
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I got the crossbars off! Tower/rail closeup:  Strange fastener type to deal with:  Top shot, showing placement of rails relative to stock mounting area (the outer black strips):  Fastener out (which are plastic - wtf?), and plastic cap off, revealing a normal allen key that attaches the crossbars to the internal towers that run in the tracks:  Slid the posts out of the tracks, getting the crossbars off:  Before side profile:  After side profile (much cleaner!):  Also, I got the weird fastener out by using this awesome set of bits, from Lee Valley: http://tinyurl.com/nlwz6fd . Your standard bit set, plus a bunch of weird ones (some of which I've never seen).
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May 23, 2013 22:15
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Slow is Fast posted:Looks good. Now all you need is a rear spoiler I have one! But it's from a silver car, whereas mine is obviously...not. I'm going to have to go to a parts store and figure out how to mount it as close to the factory method as possible, because you can't get just the hardware from Subaru. Oh, another thing I forgot - what I thought would be nuts/bolts under the rubber endcaps of the roof rack rails (that I had to remove, to slide the towers out) ended up just being self-tapping screws with some kind of weird gray rubber gunk on the tips (to stop them backing out? or water getting down the threads? I don't know - either way, not inspiring  ). I definitely want to do the spoiler 'properly'!.
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May 24, 2013 08:49
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Sten Freak posted:OK here's my opinion on these screws. The best way to get them out is to just use a very small precision type flathead screwdriver and pry them out. They basically do not back out when turned, at least my didn't. I, uh, should check mine...
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May 25, 2013 20:22
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Oh, the spring question reminded me that I have one of my own - I have an 02 Impreza TS (wagon), and have WRX springs from the same - will the ride height be different at all?
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Jun 3, 2013 07:16
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I have a 2002 Impreza TS hatch, with 139,XXX km (~86/87,000 miles). As far as I know, it has the original exhaust, and the catalytic converter is starting to go - I swear I'm even starting to get the odd whiff of mildly-rotten egg in the cabin. A local guy has a genuine (not replica) Borla unequal length header and high-flow cat, both with 20,000km (~12,000mi). The header has never been wrapped, and has no cracks. He also has a factory STI catback, to round out the system. So far, I know I'd need gaskets, and front/rear O2 sensors (which look fairly pricey). My biggest question is, he had it on a 2000 RS (sedan). From the digging I've done, it looks like the engine is the same, so would everything fit my car?
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Nov 27, 2013 09:21
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Hi all, I just caught up on about 150 pages of this thread over the last few days. I have a 2011 WRX Limited, hatchback. It only has about 52,000km, and I'm keeping it until it dies. The car is completely stock, and I'm getting the modification bug. Recently I've been narrowing down what I want to do, with a focus on improving on stock & increasing longevity. So far I'm thinking: Cobb short shifter (I like it over the Kartboy, because you can adjust the height and throw). Borla cat back (the videos I've seen give it an awesome rumble without being obnoxiously loud or ricer-y). Fumoto drain plug (I do as much as I can on my cars myself, and this would make oil changes more of a breeze). Some sort of oil pickup, maybe a pickup & pan combo. Leaning towards Moroso with an STI pan because of price, but I'd shell out for a KillerB pickup if it would really make that much of a difference. Rims. The limited has decent ones, but I'm thinking Enkei RPF01s would look better. Maybe, maybe an accessport. This would definitely be one of the last things I'd look at. Any thoughts on what I should do first? Probably the pickup and pan? Also, if anyone is wondering about the summary of the last 3 years of this thread: headgaskets, headgaskets and more headgaskets, oil consumption, holy crap will they make a hatchback WRX again, and that one guy who seems to have poo poo-awful luck with random stuff breaking. Oh. Also, this Jamal guy can get just about anything.
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Feb 12, 2018 14:09
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So I decided on an exhaust for my '11 WRX. I had been leaning towards Borla, but then I tripped across Corsa and went that route. A shop installed it yesterday (as well as a Moroso oil pickup, for peace of mind). All I can say is, it's amazing - it's how the car should have sounded from factory. Shop was in a big city, I'm 3 hours away, so around town it was amazing, and totally liveable on the highway.
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Mar 22, 2018 23:25
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I just picked up an 05 Outback limited for beater duty. I have wrangler Duratracs on my 09 Silverado that I'm giving to my dad, and love them. They don't seem to make them in a size that would fit the Outback however. Digging around various forums has revealed that some guys can fit 16" Grabber AT/2s, and some have gotten Yokohama Geolandars to fit. However, these sizes don't seem to come in true all-seasons (mountain/snowflake rated), and I live in a rural area (lots of snow in the winter, weeks of -40*C weather, and gravel roads). I'd like to stick with that rating, and don't want to have two sets of tires for the car. Are there any tires I might be overlooking? If I go the 16" rim route, will rims from an 04/05 WRX fit?
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Jun 4, 2018 08:22
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Kreez posted:I'm getting sick of re-attaching the front bumper and side skirts on my 2010 base model Impreza seemingly more and more often, as the forestry roads around here seem to get worse and worse each year. I've heard some pretty intense smashes from under the car as well, though nothing seems to have been seriously damaged yet. I've been poking around ads for Outbacks and Foresters. It's not a stupid idea. That's basically what the "outback" versions of various cars were. Same car with an inch or two of lift. I was half jokingly considering doing that with my 2011 WRX, and was basically a strut swap.
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Aug 17, 2018 06:08
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Hey all, I picked up a 2005 Outback Limited this summer for winter beater duty. The temps have started dropping here, and I've realized I'm going to need a remote start or secure idle. I found out last night that the car won't let me lock the doors while the car is running. I don't need anything fancy (again, winter beater) but I'll need something that will keep the car running for 15-20 min at a stretch. Ideally something that I can start and leave running until I can come out to it - I had an 09 Silverado that would run for 10 min at a stretch before turning off, and it would do that a max of twice before I had to go out and start the car. Will an OEM setup do the trick, or should I look for a reasonable aftermarket unit? Either way, I'll be installing it myself as the keys aren't chipped.
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Oct 1, 2018 04:03
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Hi all, have an issue with the cooling system in my winter "beater". It will be a bit of a longer read... It's currently -35*C (-31*F here today). 05 Outback was plugged in overnight, got up this morning and warmed it up for about 20min. After about 20-30 min of highway driving, there was no more heat, almost like someone had opened a window. Heard a noise I thought was my block heater cord hitting the highway. Pulled over, steam coming out from under the hood. Popped the hood, and the tube from the rad cap to the overflow had come off. Frozen coolant all over driver's side engine bay and undercarriage. Put the tube back on, added some premix coolant to the overflow tank. The engine would surge at idle. No coolant in the exhaust. Continued on, about 5 min later (with something sounding like a cable knocking around the engine bay the whole time), temp guage was now in the red. Pulled over, more steam, hose had come off again, zero heat. Enough coolant seemed to be leaking from somewhere on the drivers side that a small puddle formed. Got a ride to the friends wedding I was trying to get to. Afterwards I called for a tow, went back to the car, added coolant to the rad. Noticed that the upper rad hose was pinched almost shut. Drove it on the towtruck, unloaded in a heated shop, and noticed there's no more coolant in the overflow. There is however a fist sized chunk of ice. After a few min of letting the car sit (while off), the upper rad hose is back to normal. Sorry for the length of post. Any idea what the issue could be, and if any damage could have been done?
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Jan 20, 2019 00:16
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nwin posted:Suggestions on headlight replacements? I'm a fan of the silverstar ZXE bulbs. Their branding is kinda ricey, but they're OSRAM bulbs from Germany and are a nice clean white with slightly (only barely noticeable) blueish tint.
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Feb 19, 2019 17:51
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Well, I took my 2011 WRX hatch for the first spin of the year, and it decided to eat it's clutch. I noticed initially that the revs would increase dramatically in 4th & 5th, without much corresponding movement of the speedo. When I went to pass someone I hit redline trying to get to 120km/h. This was accompanied shortly afterward by clutch smoke. I pulled over to check things out, figured I'd try to limp the car home, pulled a u turn on the highway and that's all it had left. I'm going to call the shop I use tomorrow and see about getting it in. Car has 63k km on it, I'm the second owner, first owner used it commuting into and out of city traffic. I've put maybe 10k km on it in the 4 years I've had it. It's my baby. Can anyone recommend a slightly more performance based (or durable) setup? Also, what other stuff could/should be done while in there? I've been thinking about putting in a TiC concepts Holy Shift kit (or similar), and maybe eventually going to a cobb double adjustable short throw shifter. Car has a Corsa cat-back, and that's it.
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Mar 25, 2019 10:25
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In regards to my clutch issue from the other page: OEM clutch would be $1900, resurfaced OEM flywheel. Competition (brand) "Stage 2" clutch would be 2100, again with the resurfaced OEM flywheel. The shop said they've done a lot of the Competition clutches, and the Excedy one that was recommended here is more expensive. In terms of feel, it's only a little heavier feel than stock. Also, most people that add a lightened/stage 2 flywheel to match have issues with chattering and clutch feel. I've asked them to order the Competition one. Parts should be in Thurs. Captain McAllister fucked around with this message at 21:01 on Mar 26, 2019 |
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Mar 26, 2019 20:59
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Yeah, sorry, the price is Canadian. Parts were $6-700, and labour is 7.5hrs. Also, I'm in Saskatchewan and these cars really aren't common here. As in, there are two major cities, one dealership in each of them, and one non-dealership specialist shop in each of them. Labour is 120/hr. Price includes kartboy transmission mounts (no extra labour), and then taxes are 11%. Captain McAllister fucked around with this message at 03:49 on Mar 27, 2019 |
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Mar 27, 2019 03:40
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I have a Veepeak I got from Amazon for $25 CAD. I use that and the free Car Scanner app. Worked well on my 09 Silverado, works well on my 05 Outback.
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Apr 16, 2019 08:34
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I'm going on vacation shortly, and would like to take my motorbike (~360lbs) with me. The drive will be 3 days/2000km each way. I had initially looked at upgrading the hitch on my 2005 Outback to a class 3 (400lb tongue weight) and using a motorcycle carrier, then read some things about max tongue weight being 200lbs in North America (but 400lb elsewhere). I realized that I didn't want to risk...quite a few things were I to hit a bump with the bike and carrier bouncing on the back end of the car. My current plan is to rent a 5x8 enclosed uhaul trailer to keep the bike out of sight/stone chips etc. The car has what appears to be a factory 1.25" receiver hitch on it, and I've ordered a class III hitch (2 inch receiver) to replace it with. The tongue weight for the class 3 hitch for this car, interestingly, is 400lbs. However, I then found 1.25" ball mounts, and got wondering if I could just get one of those and use the stock hitch instead. I can't find any kind of reliable numbers as to what the towing figures with the stock hitch would be. Can anyone suggest which route to go, or things I may not have accounted for?
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Jul 26, 2019 05:01
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Blacknose posted:I never really understood why a 2 wheel drive, non turbo subaru needs to exist, least of all a god drat sports car. Because it's really just a rebadged Toyota. If you think of it that way it makes a little more sense.
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Sep 2, 2019 04:24
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STR posted:I have seperate switches for the mirrors and windshield. Both work. Open your hatch and pull back the rubber 'boots' on the wiring harnesses that are inboard of the top corners. On my 05 Outback, both harnesses had wires that were frayed through (a known issue). I replaced the more important of the two with a new one from Subaru, as well as the one in the driver's door. This fixed a remarkable number of weird electrical gremlins. Also check the hard mount on the glass that the plug attaches to.
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Nov 27, 2019 23:16
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(light comes on, and it looks like one line across the back window has power)
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Any power steering leaks? How's that fluid colour and level?
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Feb 29, 2020 15:48
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I finally got around to putting a cobb double adjustable short shifter in my 2011 WRX and holy poo poo I don't know why I didn't do this sooner. Around Christmas I put a URD short shifter in my Tacoma, and now that the weather's nice I've been driving the WRX more and felt that the shifter felt like the Tacoma pre-URD so I bit the bullet. Only peeve so far is that for the shortest throws, the inner shifter boot pushes against the shifter in 2nd and 4th because the screws to tighten everything up are on the back side of the shifter when they could easily be around front. Oh, and that there's now an excess of stock shifter boot material because the Cobb setup is THAT much shorter. #firstworld problems. I left the console/shifter boot off while test- driving so I could make adjustments on the fly, and the increase in turbo/gear noise was quite nice.
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Apr 29, 2020 08:57
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100% that code will be emissions related. The same thing is currently happening on my 11 WRX because the driveshaft wore through the rear 02 sensor cable. The shop I go to explained that that's the Subaru response - it basically defaults it to a 'safe' mix/fuel map and cancels your TC and cruise, which is annoying. Edit: I have a Veepeak OBDII BT code reader from Amazon, and use the Torque app to read/clear codes and get more info about various systems.
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Jul 13, 2020 07:07
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Wonderllama posted:Got the old solid check engine light and blinking cruise control limp mode today when I got into the car for breakfast. Took it by a local shop to pull the code and they say the SECONDARY AIR INJECTION PUMP CHECK VALVE (sorry copy/paste caps) is stuck open. Reset the code and gave me a quote for $865 repair. Car seemed fine afterwards while driving. Is this an issue I need to address immediately? I'm in Canada but got a recall notice for this on my 2011 WRX a few years ago. Run the VIN and see if it's been fixed on yours? If not, see if the recall is valid and get it done. Recall notice said something about spontaneous fires...
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Jul 27, 2020 00:31
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Hey all, The rear defrost/defogger grid on my '11 WRX Limited (hatch) isn't working. The button lights up, I can hear the relay click, and the heated mirrors work, but nothing happens on the rear window. If the switch and relay are working, could it be as simple as a fuse? Is it separate from the heated mirrors?
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Jan 15, 2024 03:11
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Majere posted:If its anything like the legacy, the wires in the hinge are frayed/broken Hmm. I did have an 05 Outback where those wires had frayed, leading to some weird gremlins. This car only has 75k km on it, though...I guess I'll check them when the weather gets a little nicer.
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Jan 20, 2024 22:39
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