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TurboLuvah posted:You can hit almost 300whp on the VF40, you don't need a VF52. Mine made 289whp/297wtq with stock injectors, Perrin intercooler, catless up, catless bellmouth DP and a protune. I know the VF46 (which is stock on mine) has slightly different flow curves due to the housing, and I already have a catless UP stock. So maybe I just go with the TMIC, DP and tune. Then if the turbo does go, I can do the upgrade down the line. It would be cheaper short term. You're in MA/NH aren't you? Where did you get it tuned? A bunch of people up here go to EFI - is that where Mike from formerly TDC went?
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# ¿ Sep 15, 2010 15:52 |
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# ¿ May 10, 2024 22:12 |
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TurboLuvah posted:Yeah I am in MA, I have heard EFI was good, Mike from TDC was the guy who initially tuned my car. Thanks! I've heard of the DSG shop, but don't know much about them. Definitely worth a look into. Thanks again! And yeah, coming up on 45k, the banjo bolts were coming back to the front of my mind as a concern. I was contemplating just getting a new set, but if people are just removing the filters, I can probably live with that too.
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# ¿ Sep 18, 2010 02:28 |
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bull3964 posted:Well, every subaru sold today has an aux in so that's covered at least. Well sure, but even then, it's still a horribly integrated system with HVAC. (I haven't looked in on the 2010+). WHY Subaru!?!?! WHY?!?! Edit: \/\/\/\/\/ "syphon posted:Are you talking Legacy or something? The 2008+ Imprezas are just Double DIN, and I vaguely remember my loaner Forester having the same stereo. Beverly Cleavage fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Sep 23, 2010 |
# ¿ Sep 23, 2010 02:56 |
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Speaking of alignments - I'm in pretty desperate need of an alignment. What's a good neutral/rear bias combination for alignment on a daily driver with whiteline sway bars (22front -soft and 20 firm out back)? Keeping in mind that snow is on the way.
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# ¿ Nov 5, 2010 13:10 |
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MetaJew posted:This would be my guess. You know, defects in a crystal lattice or something. Or, more likely, something like the sunroof frame flexing or bending and putting strain on the glass. On the one hand I'd say keep driving it - but it IS shattered glass and pieces are still going to be falling down now that the structure has been compromised. I'm not sure about you guys, but I'm not too inclined to drive when there's the potential for shards flying around my face
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# ¿ Dec 20, 2010 00:49 |
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It sounds to me like typical dealership antics. You weren't going anywhere because you already gave them a little bit of cash on a car they wouldn't have much margin on (no options). Once you told them you were backing out, you were suddenly on their radar again and they just wanted your money. f- them. Enjoy the new car!
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# ¿ Jan 8, 2011 03:15 |
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The MPG calc on my LGT (08 5-spd) is usually close, but can be a couple tenths off at the very least - especially if driving habits/type shift towards the end of a tank. Having said that though, my commute is now mostly highway. The complicating factors are lots of hills and weather. In the middle of winter, mileage drops 3-5 mpg easily. During summer, I'll see 27-29 mpg. Right now I'm lucky to get low 24.
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# ¿ Feb 14, 2011 23:17 |
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LeeMajors posted:I'm a pretty docile driver. My Tacoma was rated 19/22 and I regularly avg. 24-25. I live in the Southeast on the coastal plain (flat as gently caress) and its pretty warm most of the year. I recognize I do fairly well given the conditions - especially with how cold it was this morning and how big the car is. In comparison though, the other car I just picked up, is averaging 34 mpg on the cheap stuff, instead of the aforementioned 24 mpg on premium. I grew up around hondas that sipped gas. And at 30+ cents a gallon difference, including different sized tanks - I've gone from paying nearly $50 a fill up to $30-$35 a fill up. Once a week, that adds up.
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# ¿ Feb 15, 2011 15:17 |
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Cat Terrist posted:DBW Not for nothing, but seeing as you're pulling your hair out on this issue: Wouldn't it be worth at least the time investment to start testing components/comparing with a similarly equipped car before you start throwing more parts at it? since this was apparently not an issue before? In as much as finding another local with an 06 and start testing the electrical components attached to the DBW and engine management (so tps/throttlebody/maf/etc - or whatever equivalent components) measure resistance and see if you can note a trending/difference between the systems? i.e. lagged response/dropped voltage kind of thing (deadspot in the tps?)? Not saying you probably haven't already done this to some degree in talking to other mechanics/experts - but I'm talking literally doing the tests side by side.
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# ¿ Jun 13, 2011 03:52 |
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Cat Terrist posted:I also have an MY07 and thats the first thing we tried. I was saying 06 for 06 just because wouldn't the canbus system create enough differences in the 07? Good to see you (have always been, admittedly) doing your homework.
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# ¿ Jun 13, 2011 13:53 |
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Mommy! Daddy! Stop fighting, you're scaring me! I think we just need to agree the experience has taught both of you different things, and with Jamal's focus on tarmac/time-attack, and CT's primarily dirt (not forgetting other AutoX, etc experience) - it could very well lead to different opinions on this stuff. The primary point being - fix the alignment first and then explore other options, knowing that opinions vary as to which is the best bang for the buck (The best being experience - learn your car!). Move from there.
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# ¿ Sep 28, 2011 13:56 |
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infrared35 posted:Thumps.... Have you checked your mounts? It really sounds to me like the varied load you're putting on the drive train with a bad mount kind of scenario.
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# ¿ Oct 14, 2011 14:12 |
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Cat Terrist posted:
You say THAT and then don't post said pictures?!?
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# ¿ Oct 25, 2011 14:00 |
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nm posted:
I would still budget a new turbo soon. Was yours checked when you rebuilt? I don't recall it being mentioned, but you are getting close either way.
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# ¿ Nov 8, 2011 12:51 |
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Like others have noted, winter has appeared in the northeast US. I realized the other day while I was talking with MY GIRLFRIEND - The LGT is my "nice" car, so it really only comes out on good days and is generally kept clean. Except for when the weather is absolutely terrible and I'd feel safer in the heavier (more stable) and AWD capable vehicle. Essentially, I bought this car specifically for it's capabilities, but now try to shelter it from the conditions for which I originally bought it. Does anyone else see a problem with this logic?
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# ¿ Nov 24, 2011 19:01 |
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c355n4 posted:You just need more subarus. damnit...I knew I should have taken up my buddy on the RHD v3sti swapped into 99 RS. Oh well, too late now, he parted it out. Sure was amusing for the 3 blocks or so I drove it! Actually, if the family plans happen, I may opt for an FXT....or V70R. We'll see how that goes. Just have to wait it out a bit.
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# ¿ Nov 24, 2011 22:45 |
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chrisgt posted:I don't understand why people think they need a heavier weight oil if they live in a really hot place. I don't know about people further south, but up in the northern reaches - we can see anything from -20F in the winter (not including windchill) to 100F in the summer. I'll generally stick with a 30 weight, but I do change between 5w30 and 10w30 depending on time of year. It may not be a huge difference, but it is definitely a piece of mind for me when I'm in the cold extreme of the scale.
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# ¿ Jan 27, 2012 20:11 |
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Totally TWISTED posted:Re: Accessories/Upgrades For what it's worth - Auto-dim mirror upgrade, so glad I got it on my Legacy GT. Now driving a car without one just kills me at night.
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# ¿ Apr 4, 2012 12:17 |
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Awwww poo poo, CT and Jamal are fighting again kimbo305 posted:In high school physics, cf is constant. If that is roughly the case for rolling rubber on road, then I'd think grip would still be correlated or proportional to load. Take the classic hot hatch scenario. You trail brake into a corner. The front end digs in and gets grip; the rear end tips up and loses grip. Sometimes the inside rear tire even lifts, which would be zero grip. So in this specific case, I don't see how the tire with more load loses grip first. Maybe I'm reading this incorrectly, but I don't think you're accounting for the weight transfer and the inherent nature/weight balance of said hot hatch. Also - I think in Jamal's example, he's talking about lateral load forces in losing grip, where as in lifting the rear inside tire in your example, is a different type of force (weight transfer, in conjunction with damping forces lifting the tire).
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# ¿ Apr 20, 2012 18:50 |
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chucky.z posted:What's AI's thoughts on Legacy GT's? What year? I love my 08 - but I don't think there's much need for an up-pipe since they are decatted stock. The 5spd is decent enough if you don't drive like an idiot and do clutch-drops.
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# ¿ Jun 29, 2012 21:27 |
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Captain McAllister posted:OK, so I ran the averages from my logbook. Usually 52L is when the light comes on, and 400km/tank. That is 7.7km/L, which Google tells me is about 18mpg. That still seems...not so great? It might be a little low, but with purely city driving, I wouldn't expect great results from an AWD vehicle in terms of "mpg." In Northern VT, the trip computer in my LGT is reporting mid 22.5-ish mpg and I'm doing a ton of highway driving. Literally, YMMV.
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# ¿ Nov 20, 2012 15:52 |
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WRX != STi fitment. STi's use a 5x114.5 lug pattern whereas all other WRX/Legacy/etc fitments are 5x100. The suspension in my LGT is starting to get noisy, and being less than an oil change from 70k miles, it probably wouldn't hurt to start looking into options to refresh it. The car is 99% highway/commuting/baby hauler duties, so I don't want to go crazy replacing springs or doing coil-overs - just looking at "stock replacement" shock options mostly. Bilstein? Tokico?
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# ¿ Nov 26, 2012 15:13 |
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Amandyke posted:Koni! My only concern there is I don't have the tools necessary to do the modifications to the original housing myself and can't afford downtime to have someone do it for me. War Bunny posted:Yeah, they are dual-drilled, fortunately. So no size issues, you think? I don't think the size of the brembo system has changed, so if other STi's are running them, you should be golden.
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# ¿ Nov 26, 2012 22:07 |
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nm posted:I like Bilsteins. I haven't had them on the legacy (I have on other cars), but they seem to fit your needs. You don't seem like someone who would benefit from the adjust-ability of the konis. Generally I like the way bilstiens ride over konis. Thanks for the info. I haven't done much digging yet, but just going off of that, this may very well be the way to go. Ultimately, I won't be doing the work. It'd be a mechanic buddy who helps me out for cheap. I COULD probably go the Koni route but the lifetime warranty of the Bilstein's certainly has its perks. You're spot on about adjust-ability - it would be lost on this car (as much as I would like to think otherwise... I haven't autocrossed in years, and never done a track day. Were I to start all over again, I'd want something dedicated to that purpose instead of risking a needed commuter car). While we are at it - what needs to be done while this is going on. Top hats? inspect bushings and motor mounts - anything else that stands out? Vt has pretty standard/intensive safety inspections, so ball joints and tie-rods are regularly checked... Thanks for the awesome feedback so far guys. edit for grammar Beverly Cleavage fucked around with this message at 15:28 on Nov 27, 2012 |
# ¿ Nov 27, 2012 15:25 |
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Cat Terrist posted:Kill me now. What ever makes you think you'd stop with a 22B? There is no light at the end of this tunnel for your addiction. You're just hoarding now... And we all love it.
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# ¿ Dec 5, 2012 15:48 |
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jamal posted:I don't think I've ever bought a bolt or piece of hardware that didn't have to get ordered. Just after I was asking about for struts on my LGT. oh well.
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# ¿ Dec 19, 2012 14:01 |
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I'm in the same boat with my 08. I know a battery is generally a battery - but without shelling out for an odyssey, what's a good go to brand these days?
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# ¿ Jan 25, 2013 11:15 |
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does your wagon have a voltmeter? Currently, I have no clue how mine is doing, but it can't be great. I'm trying to track down a dealer for exides around here...
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# ¿ Jan 25, 2013 18:55 |
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burtonos posted:I am picking up a new 3.6 outback tomorrow! What is the first thing I do to the funhog? Clearly you need a roo-bar with about 6 hella driving lights. Or you could go the other way and get some of those pink supertones and put them in the grille...
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# ¿ Feb 19, 2013 13:25 |
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Terminus Est posted:Did the same thing when I had extra-s in it. That got dumped when all the bearings were replaced under warranty last spring. Need to stop being lazy, I still have 5 liters in my basement. Extra S definitely makes a big difference, unfortunately last time I did fluids in my 08, didn't have any on-hand so I had to go with an alternate which isn't quite as good. Having said that, on REALLY cold days, yeah, it'll still be tough in 1st and 2nd. just be slow/patient the first few minutes and you'll be good.
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# ¿ Feb 20, 2013 15:03 |
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The only potential downside - I've got it on my 08 LGT and I've had it since new. They had to reapply it due to bubbling after the first year (poor application - was just lazy about taking it back in), but after about 4 years it's starting to yellow a bit. And if you pull it off, the paint will be darker underneath, so you may as well reapply....
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# ¿ Feb 28, 2013 20:48 |
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2 things to report today: 1. New plugs after 70k miles - drat car feels completely different. (stock replacement NGK iridium) 2. Replaced thermostat - old one definitely dead, but still feel like new one isn't doing great either... are LGT cooling systems THAT good?
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# ¿ Mar 2, 2013 02:07 |
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nm posted:Spark plugs on EJ257. Do they really last 60k mi? Mine did pretty well considering. I figure ill try and stick to 60k instead of 70 this next time around...
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# ¿ Mar 2, 2013 12:39 |
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bawfuls posted:Well if its not a mechanical gently caress up and is indeed driver error, then I shouldn't worry about it being an ongoing issue if I'm the one driving it. Maybe, but I'd question the long term health of a car that saw abuse like that. Internal wear on the trans due to bad driving/launches to motor wear/tear from related bad driving.
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# ¿ Mar 25, 2013 01:37 |
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The correct answer is to get an 08-09. Gas mileage still isn't great, but I have zero complaints about mine.
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# ¿ Mar 29, 2013 01:21 |
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Just because I have a better turbo and better gearing than the 05-06 is no reason to get catty. And the LGT is certainly not for everyone. Sti was definitely not in the cards for me at the time, though let's see what happens in the next few years.
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# ¿ Mar 29, 2013 02:53 |
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Larrymer posted:This has me thinking "bullshit." I actually hit 30+ mpg on a road trip years ago in my 08, and during summer I easily manage 26+ on the commute. It's all in the driver and the characteristics of the commute.
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# ¿ Mar 31, 2013 13:14 |
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Mice also love to build nests in the housing and eat the filter media. Go ahead, ask how I know.
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# ¿ May 26, 2013 13:25 |
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Linux Nazi posted:
My understanding is that the big limitation is refresh rates of obd2. It's better/faster to get it from the source than to try and get it further down the line from the ECU/etc. Edit: hell, what he said ^^^^
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# ¿ Jun 7, 2013 17:11 |
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# ¿ May 10, 2024 22:12 |
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Backseat of a wrx is not optimal for rear facing baby seats. If you are only going to have one, put it in the middle and you can do ok, but if you need to put it on one side of the car, someone is going to suffer (the passenger, since you wouldn't want to drive with your knees crunched against the dash). The dealer may have a dummy cars eat for you to try. My wife and I are planning 3 kids (first is 9mos.), and APA recommends 2 years rear facing - so that means we will have multiple rear facing, it is surprisingly difficult to find a vehicle to do that comfortably.
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# ¿ Jun 11, 2013 12:09 |