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Don Dongington posted:cool, thanks! Avoid the 2.0R, the SOHC was a much, much better engine. DOCH non turbo engines are stuck with air pump and valves which are likely to expensively fail and they also have an untunable ECU which you'll have to get reset every few months to get rid of the flat spot they develop.
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Aug 3, 2016 14:19
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dk2m posted:Say what now? I've never heard of this before AU spec 2.0R use a Hitachi ecu which can't be tuned. Almost every other Subaru uses a Denso ecu which can be tuned with a tactrix or similar. Last I heard the only way to get Hitachi ecus tuned was by sending it to some guy in Russia who modifies them so they can be openport tuned
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Aug 4, 2016 10:17
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BloodBag posted:What in the purple gently caress? I thought the FA20 DIT had port injectors for exactly this reason (pictured in orange) Only BRZ got direct and port injection. WRX is straight DIT
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Feb 4, 2017 08:42
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The FA motor is fine, most failures are from stupid drivers doing stupid things. Just because its not OMGMOTORSPORTRALLYCHAMPION doesn't mean its a bad or unreliable motor.
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Jun 14, 2017 13:46
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blk posted:Wife's 09 Outback 3.0 R still occasionally misfiring on one bank. Any usual suspects to check? Variable cam solenoid....very common to cause random misires on 1 bank
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Jul 1, 2017 05:54
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fickle poofterist posted:In vic unfortunately bud. Do you know anyone in Vic you can reccomend? I'm dealing with gotitrex whi seem pretty good but always chasing reccomendations.... DIY it. All you have to do is pop off one of the side timing covers (4x 10mm bolts) and you can see the belt
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Jul 5, 2018 10:42
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fickle poofterist posted:What tell tale marks am I looking for? Any cracking or deterioration of the rubber. Genuine belts have a big patch of writing on them and if you can still clearly read it then its probably good. The belts are pretty strong, ive lifted an engine with a used timing belt before. Idler pulleys on the other hand tend to fail before belts do but ive seen plenty go 200k on original idlers and you can usualy hear them before they let go. ChunksNensja fucked around with this message at 13:55 on Jul 6, 2018 |
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Jul 6, 2018 13:47
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Granite Octopus posted:Even with two crowbars on opposite sides of the shaft we couldn’t get it out. Maybe it’s because this is a non-oem shaft? Idk. Rather than risk destroying something I’m going to take it somewhere, possibly the dealer. This wasn't a Grip-X brand shaft by any chance? I hope for your sake it's not
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Aug 6, 2018 11:18
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Granite Octopus posted:Nah, it was a Protex branded one https://www.sparesbox.com.au/part/protex-cv-shaft-psa246a They don't sit right against the seal so they leak and get stuck in the diff like that Protex one has. Usually takes two massive pry bars and turning the shaft at the same time to try and get the circlip in just the right spot to pop. Reconditioned ones are the way to go or pay the $300ish from a dealer for new
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Aug 7, 2018 13:31
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Lord of Garbagemen posted:BH Legacy EJ251, w 4eat. Wife says when it's cold and you put it in drive and keep your foot on the brake there is a terrible vibration. Somewhat smooths out when getting warm, and isnt that noticeable when driving. Also when you pop it into neutral the vibration in the car stops. Driveshafts. Most aftermarket front driveshafts cause exactly this due to the design and quality of the CVs. Find a decent rebuilt genuine shaft and it will probably fix it.
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Nov 28, 2018 11:12
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Hugh G. Rectum posted:It had the opposite, an exhaust leak. Maybe a lack of backpressure did it?
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Dec 5, 2018 12:30
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FogHelmut posted:I got the recall on my 2012, but haven't taken it in. I'm glad I didn't. Same valve spring but the recall for BRZ/86 is very different procedure than Impreza. Problem is Toyota techs doing recalls on Subaru motors
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Mar 14, 2019 10:47
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 00:56 |
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PitViper posted:Ugh. CVTs!
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Aug 13, 2019 13:42
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