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Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Slavvy posted:

Where you really benefit from extra visibility is the space above your eyes so you can tilt your head forward more and still see. The area below your nose is irrelevant yeah.

Lot of variables there, not the least of which the ergonomics of the bike. Yes, absolutely on a sportier bike, especially going up hills. Doing the same thing on and ADV, it's probably never an issue. I've got a brim on my helmet and after doing some mountain rides I'm considering removing it. It definitely interferes with upward visibility on the GSX-S on steep climbs. It was never an issue on anything else I rode. For me, peripheral vision is something I value greatly - being able to check stuff by moving your eyes and not your head is important to me. Some helmets (especially track biased ones) project a very forward facing field of view. I'm very happy with my AX9 and would say it's the gold standard for FOV for me. I'm fine with less, right now I'm using my backup which is fine, but my old GP Tech was too compromised in that regard.

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Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


epswing posted:

I’m assuming in reality a tech that can strip and rebuild an engine will just eyeball and tension the chain while on the lift…

I'm assuming the dealer tech will put it on the side stand, kick the chain with his toe, and say ehh close enough.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


The biggest question I have is how do you rotate the rear tire around to find where the chain is tightest while the bike is on the side stand? Walk the bike around the shop?

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


MetaJew posted:

I'm putting on these SV1000 brake calipers onto my SV650, using the "SVRacing Parts" brackets. Because I'm paranoid, I bought some bolts drilled for safetywire (and I paid a fortune, because apparently most fastener companies don't sell metric, drilled bolts, in the sizes I needed, so I "had" to buy these titanium ones).

Any tips on safety wiring so that I do a better job on the other side? I had initially tried to do the fancy "aircraft" style wiring, but my novice skills + the cramped space between the fork, caliper, and front stand made that pretty hard to do.

I still need to install the Brembo RCS (which I really really hope improves the brake lever feel over the factory BMC and calipers). I haven't installed a brand new BMC into a vehicle in a long time. Since the Brembo unit has a bleed valve, do I need to worry about trying to "bench bleed" it? Or do I just fill it with brake fluid and start bleeding at the BMC and then pick a caliper to do first?



I've seen worse. That's pretty good for a novice. Normally you'd wrap the twist over the bolt head to the next one but that'll be fine for purpose. The bigger worry is what material are the nuts those bolts attach to, and are the fork (assuming they're bare aluminum from the look of it) bolt holes also threaded? The caliper is painted, so no real worry there but titanium likes to do dissimilar metal corrosion with other alloys without some kind of surface treatment (anodizing, paint, etc.). So if the bolts are Ti and the nuts are steel, you might struggle getting them apart ever in the future. It plays nice with stainless steel though, so if the nuts are stainless, you're fine.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Arson Daily posted:

Lol if u even clean ur bike

This but unironically.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Nidhg00670000 posted:

Speaking of taking out plugs, on my 1988 GSX600F the plug wells are so narrow that I had to get a regular "thin walled socket" and turn it down a millimeter to actually get it down there. I'm sure there's some Suzuki tool for the job but really.

Things like this is what leads to spending $$$ on snap-on 12pt deep sockets because sometimes they're they only thing that'll fit. I'm glad you were able to bodge up a solution without resorting to that though.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


I have a cordless Dremel that I haven't had cause to use in ages, but just the fact that it's cordless beats anything else.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


epswing posted:

Why do HD factory service manuals list torque specs in ranges? Sometimes the range is substantial, e.g. "70-80 lb-ft". Why force the technician holding the torque wrench to make a decision on what they'll dial in?

Because precise torque actually doesn't matter, as long as it's tight enough, but not too tight. As long as it's in that range, it won't fall off and you won't break anything.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Russian Bear posted:

Do y’all fill up on the way home or on the way out? Or no particular way.

When I need gas

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Hi, I need a new radiator cap. It is Suzuki p/n 17730-08J00. This does not exist for purchase in Canada, from what I can find. Lead/shipping times for the US are inconveniently long. Can I use whatever generic brand Fortnine (Moose) or Amazon (CULMKARI) sells? And if so, what pressure do I need to get? I can't find what the OEM cap rating is (possibly 16psi/1.1 bar, but my only options for the fortnine one seem to be much higher than that - 1.6+ bar).

Finger Prince fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Mar 19, 2024

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


I mean, how can I argue with this?

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


metallicaeg posted:

1.1bar is the OEM:

https://www.partzilla.com/product/suzuki/17730-08J00

I can't speak to the pressure difference in what's available to you locally/quickly, but I'm not one to be picky about OEM for something like a radiator cap.

Thanks. I'm just going to order the generic one off Amazon. It should hold fine, then I might order an OEM one to have as a backup. The reason I preferred OEM is I don't know the provenance of the one that's on there now, and it's the source of my problem.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


I've been thinking mounting a small red LED strip to the back of my luggage rack and wiring it to my brake/tail light, because I'm worried about it's visibility being obscured to people in tall vehicles. Should be pretty straightforward to just wire one in parallel, right? No blinking, so it shouldn't need anything special as far as resistors, I'm thinking.

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Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Beve Stuscemi posted:

So, weird update, in researching this, a huge number of goldwing grandpas are recommending cleaning the radiator fins, as they collect a ton of crap, bugs, leaves, etc, and you can’t see it like on a regular bike, because they blow into the backs of the radiators.

So over lunch I sprayed my radiator fins down with simple green to loosen things up and then blasted them with the garden hose. Many a bug carcass came out, they were for sure dirty. This brought my temps on the freeway down a notch on the temp gauge, so it helped, but things aren’t fixed.

Next is checking the coolant level, and then replacing the coolant and changing the oil (I am currently panicking that I need a head gasket or two)

Lol I was gonna suggest that! Try blasting it with a pressure washer if you have one.

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