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Just drill the head off. Using a drill bit that is slightly larger than the threaded section of the screw drill out the center of the head (where the stripped out hole is) until you see the head pop off and get stuck to your drill bit. Then you can remove the panel and grab the remaining part of the screw with vice grips and screw it out. I've had to remove everything from body fasteners like you're dealing with to engine case bolts that stripped because they make them out of the softest steel they can find apparently. Re. the electrical problem: Go over every electrical connector on the bike. One at a time unplug the connectors, look at it to make sure it's not burnt/melty, squirt some dielectric grease in there and plug them back in. This serves 2 purposes, just unplugging/replugging cleans the contact areas and the dielectric helps to weatherproof and keep them from corroding in the future. I've fixed many an intermittent electrical problem doing this. And even if it doesn't fix anything it's excellent preventive maintenance. VV Well, this first. I guess I shouldn't assume people would check to see "is my battery charged?" when something doesn't start. obso fucked around with this message at 16:26 on Nov 26, 2012 |
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Nov 26, 2012 15:47
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Tyorik posted:All good suggestions. My only other issue is, and I should have mentioned this before, parts of my bike have some scuffs in the clear coat that I want to get out. How much does that complicate things? Just follow Shimrod's instructions above but replace "cut n polish" with "swirl remover rubbing compound" (I have a feeling we are talking about the same thing, just different names) and spend a little more time rubbing it into the scuffed areas. If you can borrow a random orbital polisher it will make the process much easier and the final result better.
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Nov 27, 2012 18:09
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M42 posted:I'd like to know more about linked brakes. Can you convert most bikes' brake systems to linked ones? More importantly, can you do it to a gs500? I'm not sure about all of them but newer Honda VTX one's that I've worked on have kind of a separated piston caliper on the front. Where the front brake lever operates one set of pistons and the foot brake is tied to another (and to the rear caliper). But it's all inside one caliper housing (with 2 spots to bleed). So basically it's just to force the die-hard foot brake users into using some front brake, while staying away from the layer dan lever.
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Dec 2, 2012 19:00
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Tyorik posted:I ordered a new fender and chin scoop for my motorcycle and they came with a black gel coat, ready to sand and paint. When it arrived the gel coat was so well done that I just put it on. Now, my question is, is it possible to clean it up a bit without painting it? Say, run a clay bar over it and put a coat of wax on it? It wouldn't have a perfect showroom quality to it but it's been a pain in the rear end trying to find someone to paint them around here. Is the gel-coat gloss black? If so running it as-is shouldn't be a problem. Take some swirl removing rubbing compound to it to smooth out any small imperfections then wax it. Worst thing that could happen is it starts to oxidize/fade in a couple years and you have to get it painted.
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Dec 7, 2012 16:38
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Is there any extra length in the hose? I would try removing the clamp that is on there, pull off the hose, clean everything up and put the hose back on, sliding it up a little farther than it is now. Then just hose clamp it (jubilee clamp? I never knew they were called that until now). But use a quality one not one that looks like a cheese grater. At 3.5 years that hose shouldn't be terribly deteriorated. obso fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Dec 8, 2012 |
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Dec 8, 2012 17:54
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Z3n posted:Why would you run a dohc setup with rocker arms anyways? I guess to shorten the arms? So you can operate multiple valves from a single cam lobe. At least that's what the Honda v4's use them for. Why? Beats me. Maybe its a weight thing.
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Dec 11, 2012 18:06
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Oh I know, I just finished setting the lash on mine. But I guess your right. It doesn't really "rock" if it's pivot is on the end.
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Dec 11, 2012 18:12
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Bark busters also do a decent job at keeping the cold air from blowing straight at your hands the whole time. Aesthetic preference may vary.
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Dec 15, 2012 16:34
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Question regarding my ongoing quest to find out what this noise is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Vcur_mmC-A (noise is nowhere near that volume in person, my phone just seemed to pick that up over everything else). My question is is any play acceptable in the connecting rod bearing? Wrist pin and piston clearances are all good. The only thing that seems off is there is about .002-.003" of up and down play in the rod bearing (using my calibrated caliper fingers), just barely enough to even feel anything. Just looking for a second opinion, I'd hate to split the case and have a new bearing pressed on just to put it back together and still have the noise Engine only has 6k miles on it (and 32 years). obso fucked around with this message at 16:42 on Dec 16, 2012 |
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Dec 16, 2012 16:24
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Yeah it sounded like valvetrain noise to me too. But the valve lash was good and the timing chain was tight. Altho I did notice while tearing it down the cam chain adjuster was was screwed down almost to its maximum so it's probably time to replace the spring.
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Dec 16, 2012 16:42
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The tensioner it was. You can see the shiny circular ring where the plunger was smacking against the adjuster. This is the odd part tho. Here is a page from the repair manual for the bike (80 yamaha sr250).  Step 5 bottom left. But when you set the adjuster so that push rod is flush   It has less than a mm of free play before it hits the adjuster. *Spring is off in these photos for obvious reasons. I'm just going to err on the side of caution and set it a little looser than what it calls (so it has at least twice that much travel) when I reassemble it but I was just curious if I'm missing something here, or misinterpreting the instructions. obso fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Dec 16, 2012 |
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Dec 16, 2012 20:00
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Don't worry about finding that exact part number, you're looking for a "micro ISO relay". The one you find may have an extra pin that yours doesn't, it should still plug in to your socket and work. However relays don't typically buzz when they get bad. They buzz when something is sending an incorrect signal to it or if there is a bad connection somewhere. But before you do any more electrical diagnosis make sure you know 100% that you have a good, fully charged battery. Otherwise you're just creating headache for yourself and possibly chasing problems that don't exist. After that check/clean your power and ground connections (including where the ground lead connects to the frame).
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Dec 18, 2012 16:43
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M42 posted:Does anyone here live in an apartment and also do their own bike work/repairs? Where do you do it?  You're supposed to get security deposits back?
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Dec 19, 2012 15:43
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In the Haynes testing procedure they are testing current. Which requires the meter to be in series. You are testing voltage so the meter should be in parallel. Just make sure your meter is set to whatever you are measuring before connecting it. If it is set to current and you put it across your battery it will pop a fuse or kill the meter.
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Dec 20, 2012 18:40
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epalm posted:Have I done irreparable damage to the battery? #1: probably #2: doubtful, but it may be good enough. You've done the only thing you could do. Charge it up and see if you got lucky.
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Dec 23, 2012 22:10
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KARMA! posted:I haven't touched my bike in a great while and my battery is low. It's a bitch to get at though. Can I connect my recharger to something other than directly to the battery without ill effects? If you can reach the starter solenoid any easier you can clamp it to the hot lead on there.
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Dec 25, 2012 14:41
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Geirskogul posted:KREEM sucks balls, and will eventually flake apart. My tank got KREEMed 7-8 years ago and other than turning kind of a brown color it's held up fine.
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Jan 2, 2013 04:47
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Ashex posted:I double checked the tank prep A bottle and it's mostly phosphoric acid so I stuck with that. I'll drain it in 4-5 hours and see how it turned out. It's just going to be a pain to discard the acid and such. For phosphoric acid just mix it with a few gallons of water and pour it on the ground. It makes a good fertilizer. Can't say the same for the other crud it washes out of the tank tho, Just don't pour it on anything you intend to eat.
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Jan 4, 2013 00:42
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Or learn to left hand throttle, plebes. VV(I really just use a throttle lock, and have yet to die from it!) obso fucked around with this message at 22:57 on Jan 6, 2013 |
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Jan 6, 2013 22:52
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Sagebrush posted:Don't have an iPhone, but on Android I recommend something like MapFactor Navigator https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.mapfactor.navigator if you need offline mapping. Another good one for android is OsmAnd
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Jan 8, 2013 16:42
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ThatCguy posted:Looks to be an F650GS, the "650" had the single front caliper and also had spoked wheels in 07+ The 07+ F650GS has a different style disk than the bike in the picture (650 has a fixed front rotor, 800 has floating rotors like in the picture). Plus you can see the bracket and mounting holes on the right fork where the caliper used to attach. Still no idea why someone would remove a disk and caliper unless it was a trail fix of some sort.
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Jan 9, 2013 23:08
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Sagebrush posted:This might go better in the vintage bike thread, but this one gets more play so eh gently caress it: CV carbs are less susceptible to altitude changes than other carb types, however they are affected just the same. But you have it backwards, as you increase in altitude the oxygen lessens and the bike starts to run too rich. No risk of damaging your bike from it, just a loss of power. If you have mufflers with removeable baffles it's a good excuse to pull them out. It will lean the mixture up some and get some of the power back.
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Jan 11, 2013 02:22
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Yeah definitely sounds like an intake leak if you're sure you got the carb clean. If you don't want to hose everything with wd-40 or starting fluid an unlit propane torch works well for finding leaks. Pretty sure the tw200 intake just has a paper gasket sealing it to the head. Take a close look at the vacuum nipple coming off of it, they like to crack there. You sure that when you buggered the pilot screw o-ring you didn't shove a piece of it down into where the pilot screw seats? Also how many turns are you tuning the pilot screw out? obso fucked around with this message at 17:00 on Jan 12, 2013 |
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Jan 12, 2013 16:56
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the walkin dude posted:I changed the oil in my '04 zx6r on Saturday (first oil change for the bike). the walkin dude posted:have been routinely pushing the engine hard since I got it in August. your oil may be normal but that's not a good habit.
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Jan 15, 2013 16:10
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Shimrod posted:Would you guys be able to tell me if the stator cover needs to come off any any stage to redo the cam chain in a ZZR250? Usually I'd trust them but when I had a look at the bike in their storage area there were a few parts off it and the stator cover side of the bike was the only ones I could get a look at and I'm positive it was off. Maybe. The timing marks (to line up the new chain) are behind the stator cover. But some engines have 2 plugs you can take out to access the flywheel bolt for turning the engine over and another hole to see the timing marks. If your bike has these it's a good chance they didn't remove it. But even then most stator covers aren't holding in oil so I'm not sure why it would leak. Most are just there to keep water out of the electrics. Either way it sounds like it's time to find a new shop.
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Jan 22, 2013 06:27
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On something as common and easy to find parts for as that I would just buy one from a newer model off ebay and be on my way. Every time I've tried to repair rusty fuel tanks that develop pinhole leaks it's always a nightmare. Get one sealed up and a couple weeks later you have a new one in a different spot. Something like kreem will stop the leaks but you will still have sections of the tank that are aluminum foil thick just waiting to get bumped.
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Jan 23, 2013 01:34
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You can check for bad connections but that's how a lot of starters start showing death throes. Good news is you can typically replace the brushes cheap. edit: unless you are seriously overheating something and pistons are trying to seize. But if normal operating temps, starter.
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Jan 24, 2013 06:42
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It looks like someone previously tried to stop the leak with blue RTV silicone. That fork probably hasn't had fluid in it in a while.
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Jan 25, 2013 07:28
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:I thought that's what I proposed, did I mis-state? Or are you saying I should buy a whole front end? I'm unclear as to whether you're advising I: The latter. The shiny parts are called fork stanchions or tubes. Find a pair of complete forks on ebay that don't have any pitting or rust on the tubes and put new fluid and seals in them. VV Yeah, that's all you need. obso fucked around with this message at 06:05 on Jan 26, 2013 |
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Jan 25, 2013 17:27
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Sagebrush posted:What's the difference between "superbike" bars and "euro" bars? I asked myself the same thing when looking for bars. I ended up buying the "euro" bars because I think they had 10mm more rise or something insignificant like that.
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Jan 30, 2013 01:11
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Kilersquirrel posted:Got access to a sawzall? I knew someone that got rid of an entire 300zx (parts car) by sawzalling it into pieces small enough to fit in garbage bins and throwing it out over a couple months.
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Jan 30, 2013 06:46
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Z3n posted:Probably more of an issue on carbs which are a bit less adjustable, but the corollary to "higher flowing" is always "less filtration", so I tend to stick to OEM filters. If you're not chasing 10ths, why bother with the potential wear to internals from crap getting into the engine? If you don't plan on holding on to your bike for more than another 20k. Given the choice between better airflow and better filtration, it makes sense to pick better filtration. Meh, anecdotal evidence I know, but my 82 honda got a K&N with it's first filter change and is just about to kick over 60k miles with no appreciable wear. Plenty of those miles were unkept dirt roads. obso fucked around with this message at 18:19 on Feb 5, 2013 |
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Feb 5, 2013 18:15
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Surely that design means that once the slipper kicks in you lose all engine braking though? Not all of it, but that is the point.
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Feb 5, 2013 18:20
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Kilersquirrel posted:Drain your tank, drain your carb bowls, and run a half-and-half mix of Seafoam and gas through it for a few minutes. Then let it sit for a while, restart, repeat. They'll be squeaky clean in no time, and you'll de-varnish the bottom portion of your fuel tank nicely. If passages in the carbs are plugged then no amount of fuel additives will clean it (because no fuel flows through them).
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Feb 11, 2013 16:41
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Sagebrush posted:I haven't noticed any actual hanging when I close the throttle, though it does sort of go in two stages -- a fairly rapid drop to about 1800rpm, a pause for a second or so, then a drop to the idle point of 1300-1500. That's hanging. That also typically indicates a lean condition. I'm betting you either have a clogged jet/passage in that carb or a ruptured diaphragm. Also check the fuel level in the bowl.
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Feb 19, 2013 22:45
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Mr. Eric Praline posted:I use E6000 to glue drat near everything I need to glue. http://www.amazon.com/E-6000-Med-Visc-1-Ounce-Adhesive/dp/B000XZTD14 Wal-mart sells big tubes of it in the craft section. That stuff is magic. I knocked a starter housing off my workbench and it jarred one of the permanent magnets loose. Broke out the E6000, and 3 years later that starter is still working fine.
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Feb 25, 2013 16:38
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McTinkerson posted:I have the BS38's from my XS500 torn apart and the supposedly correct rebuild kits for them. I am however not so sure the internet was correct. Would those that have worked on the Mikuni BS series care to take a look and set me straight? Yeah as far as I can tell that looks right. It looks to have everything you need there. I see the bowl gasket, pilot screw, float valve, main and pilot jets. The spring looks like the one that goes on the idle screw. I'm not sure what the small gasket and the brass rod are for but that shouldn't be hard to figure out (or maybe for a different application?). Thought I could be of more help, I could put a BS34 together blindfolded but this is a completely different animal.
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Mar 4, 2013 16:13
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Xovaan posted:I just tuck the bike under me in turns and keep my torso kind of upright. If you aren't booking it at ludicrous speeds through corners, body position won't matter as much. People on sport tourers go 20 faster than me around corners barely moving their bodies at all and after that I realized I was overthinking everything You mean keep your torso upright in relation to the motorcycle? Or Do you mean keep your torso upright to the world and let your bike lean under you? If it's the latter that's called crossed up and is a bad habit to get into. When you are doing that you are leaning the bike over farther than you need to, and decreasing the amount of evasive maneuvers you can make. Drop your inside elbow a little on corners. This will help keep your arms loose on the bars and brings your torso down lower and to the inside so your weight is helping rather than it having to corner fighting against you.
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Mar 10, 2013 15:53
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Naan Bread posted:My first bike (Honda CBF125) has thrown a big end and isn't safe to ride any more, the dealership I got it from are trying to say that the warranty it is still under is void. I had a spill about a month ago where the bike tipped and the engine stalled after literally 3 seconds whilst on its side, the dealer is trying to claim that this was long enough to drain the engine of oil and cause the issue that has arisen. It depends. If it's an 09 then it's being covered by a 3rd party warranty. And that will all come down to the company that issued it.
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Mar 23, 2013 03:15
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AfricanBootyShine posted:How does a hypercharger work, and does it really do anything? It's a fancy air filter housing. They do a great job of sucking in rain.
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Mar 23, 2013 21:32
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