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None of you ever used a punch or edge of a small chisel to break loose small screws like that? Just set the tip of the punch/chisel close to the outside edge of the screw and tap it in the direction you want it to turn. If that doesn't work I drill them. It's a pretty painless operation (and extremely common).
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Mar 31, 2013 17:35
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ChiTownEddie posted:2010 Bonneville Sounds like something else. The fully charged resting voltage for bike batteries is about 12.7V. After being off the charger a few hours it should drop down to this voltage. The fact it still read 12.4 after being stored means there's no shorted cells. Work all your brake/clutch/kickstand switches a few times. If any of them is malfunctioning it can cause what you are describing. obso fucked around with this message at 04:25 on Apr 6, 2013 |
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Apr 6, 2013 04:22
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JP Money posted:I've been toying with the idea of trying to reverse bleed my brakes lately with a syringe and some clear tubing. The DRZ especially has a brake hose that curves up above the MC and could trap air. The lever will always have a good amount of travel due to a small piston but I'm curious if I can make the brakes feel better with this method than the typical draining method. I suspect it won't make any difference though. Replace the front brake line(s) with steel braided if they aren't already.
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Apr 23, 2013 23:41
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Tamir Lenk posted:You can make your own SS lines pretty easily. http://www.apexbrakes.com/custom.asp Easy (and cheap) to have someone else make them too. JP Money posted:In my experience it doesn't really get any better with bleeding due to it being a smaller MC of older design. Nothing stopping you from swapping on one with a bigger piston. It's a fairly easy swap in most cases. obso fucked around with this message at 01:22 on Apr 24, 2013 |
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Apr 24, 2013 01:19
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Wootcannon posted:Done it repeatedly while trying for it earlier, if only it were so easy. Change it. Fresh oil can do wonders for weird trans issues. Wootcannon posted:I'll get back to you tomorrow morning about that, but what would that mean/entail? Take off the clutch and check if the teeth or whatever you call them that engage the drive are damaged, or is it just a case of cleaning gunk and making sure all moving parts are moving freely? Think of your clutch as 0 when the handle is pulled all the way in. And 100 when let off completely. Where in there do you feel it grab and the bike start to move? (60-80?) Where does it feel completely engaged? (70-90?) (Is that confusing? that's how my brain visualizes it best) obso fucked around with this message at 04:15 on May 1, 2013 |
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May 1, 2013 04:10
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A bad battery can also cause one to die at idle. Because at idle the charging system isn't putting out enough to overcome the draw from the dead battery and still power the coil.
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May 7, 2013 00:32
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Gweenz posted:Order of things to check? Leakdown test on the valves. Sounds like one of them may be carboned/sticking.
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May 16, 2013 03:10
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n8r posted:Lol what? He said it's backfireing through one carb. On a nearly 40 year old bike ill-sealing valves are a distinct possibility.
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May 17, 2013 01:33
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Xovaan posted:Well, the fork springs, valves, and seals were installed within 20,000 miles and still look almost new. I'm all for just adding fork oil, but the factory manual and RaceTech both specify a certain mm to the teeth that the forks should be filled to, which would warrant removing the whole front fork assembly. If your fork seals aren't that old try something like Sealmate and topping off the oil. A lot of times it's just debris stuck in the seal that makes them leak.
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May 18, 2013 22:04
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zapateria posted:Can this be fixed without changing everything? Sure, those 2 phillips screws will remove the plate on the front. Behind that is a wave washer and then you can pull out that selector switch and replace it. Note that when you pull this apart any fuel in the tank is going to come pouring out so drain it best you can first. Probably worth buying a petcock rebuild kit when you go to do it. Sometimes those rubber seals don't seal as well the second time. obso fucked around with this message at 15:36 on May 19, 2013 |
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May 19, 2013 15:08
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I had one snap off like that in my yamaha (which I suspect yours is by the plug). In my case this is the one time an EZ-out worked flawlessly and pulled the remainder of the plug right out. If you need more reach with the EZ-out, hammer a socket onto the end of it and then use a ratchet with extension to turn.
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Jun 11, 2013 13:44
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Nidhg00670000 posted:From what I've observed, Akra doesn't always make the most power, and aren't always the lightest, but they are very good when it comes to power:sound ratio (meaning they are usually making good power while still sounding good as opposed to just being obnoxiously loud). That's been my experience. Except on ninja 650s, but I'm not sure there's anything you can do to that exhaust note to make it pleasing.
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Jun 24, 2013 13:47
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EX250 Type R posted:My friend's 2005 Victory Vegas 8ball has some odd tire wear, anyone have any ideas? Pretty common symptom when the tire has been run with too low pressure.
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Jul 1, 2013 05:17
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freebooter posted:Why is it that mechanics never seem to need your trade? I'm trying to get mirrors replaced on my Triumph - at a loving Triumph dealership - and I've had to call them repeatedly over two weeks to see if they can accomplish that hugely complex task. Now I'm fed up and going elsewhere. Well right now is one of their busier parts of the year. I've been scheduled up for the past couple weeks with people waiting till the last minute to bring their machines in to get repaired so they can go on their "epic independence day ride". Sadly right now you would probably have to leave it a couple days before I could work it into a space to just change some mirrors.
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Jul 5, 2013 13:55
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:How do I tune four mixture screws "for best idle?" Will adjusting one screw really affect the idle of the whole motor that much? Start with them set to whatever the factory spec says. Sync them (preferably with a manometer but a bench sync will do in a pinch). Start it and warm it up. Then one carb at a time, screw the pilot screw in (CW) until you hear that cylinder drop and the idle speed lower. Then turn it out (CCW) until you hear the cylinder drop off. Take the difference of the two and set your pilot screw there. Rinse, lather, repeat for the others. If your final pilot screw setting is more than 3-3.5 turns out, then you either have an air leak somewhere, a gunked up carb, or some other intake/exhaust modification that necessitates a bigger pilot jet (throw in 1 size bigger pilot jets and try again). obso fucked around with this message at 03:59 on Jul 21, 2013 |
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Jul 21, 2013 03:48
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