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I'm just kind of looking over specs on wikipedia and can someone explain to me what is so radically different between an Aprilia RS125 and Honda CBR125R engine that one is drastically more powerful than the other?
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Apr 28, 2015 00:14
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Razzled posted:The prillia is a GP replica two-stroke engine. The cbr125 is a 4t Oh, that would do it.
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Apr 28, 2015 00:15
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What are some good options for tiedown points on an '11 Ninja 250R? I don't have the handlebar slip-on tiedown straps. Will be trailering on a U-Haul trailer with the front wheel chock. Needless to say this is the first time I've tied down a motorcycle on a trailer, or anywhere for that matter. I've watched youtube videos so I have a GENERAL idea, but I don't know if there's anything I should stay away from on a 250R specifically. e: The manual doesn't seem to say anything on the matter.
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Jul 5, 2019 13:44
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Oh I actually do have soft loops I can use, I just meant I don’t have any of those handlebar specific loops (like the kind that are made to slip around your grips). If that works then I’m golden. My ratchets should fit that bill as well. I’ll look up how to soft tie handlebars then, and swingarm in the rear sounds like a likely spot. Thanks!
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Jul 5, 2019 15:27
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Re: Tying down I looped around lower triple and she made the trip home snug as a bug. Couldn't be happier. But also being my first time hauling a bike I was a nervous wreck 
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Jul 7, 2019 02:17
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New bike owner checking in. My mechanical experience is limited, though I’ve felt pretty comfortable wrenching on my bike. Nothing complicated, but I replaced rearset, did some minor electrical work, etc. I’m going to need to replace my rear sprocket soon, and based on every video I’ve watched it’s a fairly straightforward process. Break my chain, pull the wheel, do the replacement, torque everything down, reinstall. Is there anything I need to consider as a newb? I’m a little worried about wheel alignment after the replacement. Chain tensioning seems easy enough. I also need to replace my rear tire so it may be easier to just take it somewhere to have both done as I don’t plan to do the tire swap myself either way. I’m willing to learn though.
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Jul 10, 2019 15:53
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Sorry, should have been more specific -- chain is new, rear sprocket is very worn, front sprocket is a mystery but I already ordered a replacement for both. Impact driver is available so hopefully that doesn't turn into too much of a pain. Thanks for the insight!
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Jul 10, 2019 17:55
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So after some evaluation I think I'll just end up not trusting anything the previous owner said about the chain being recent and WILL replace it when I do my sprockets. As far as chains, is there any real reason to buy an expensive o-ring chain versus a budget o-ring chain? I don't really know what feature adds I'd be looking for, or expecting, from something that costs $100+ as opposed to the $60 ($CDN) I'd spend on an O-Ring chain. e: Without overcomplicating my decision by adding o-ring vs x-ring, etc.
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Jul 11, 2019 12:50
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What temperature should a Ninja 250 coolant temperature sensor engage? I have no frame of reference for what a hot bike is so I'm not sure if I should have ever seen my fan come on while idling the bike in my driveway. I haven't had a chance to ride the bike yet so idling is my only engine test so far. Not to mention that I know I shouldn't be idling for more than five minutes so I don't really know if that's enough time for the engine to get hot enough to start radiator cooling. I tested the fan itself by shorting the temperature sensor connector and it works fine, so I just want to get an understanding of when I should be concerned that my temp sensor is failing. I mean, to me the bike feels very hot, but it could be just fine in terms of what it can handle without radiator cooling starting. I'm very new at all this so hopefully this isn't as dumb a question as I'm dreading it may be.
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Jul 14, 2019 01:22
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Good info, thanks guys. I’m coming from a place of ignorance so this is good to know.
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Jul 14, 2019 13:50
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PO put a 150 rear tire on my Ninja 250. I need to replace it. Other than "omg beefy", which I don't care about at all, is there any reason to put a larger profile tire on the back? If not I'll go back to stock 130.
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Jul 22, 2019 13:35
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That's my thought. I have these in my basket, going to pull the trigger tonight once I inspect my front tire https://fortnine.ca/en/michelin-pilot-street-front-tire 110/70-17 54S https://fortnine.ca/en/michelin-pilot-street-rear-tire 130/70-17 62S
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Jul 22, 2019 14:42
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I ended up buying the radial version of the tires I posted above. Quick question though, the tires are listed as TL/TT which makes no sense. I presume they're tubeless but the order says: Michelin Pilot Street Radial Rear Tire Tire Size 130/70R17 TL/TT So like.. what's the story here? Do I have the option of running it either way, or.. ?
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Jul 23, 2019 00:28
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I'm weighing my options for mounting tires myself vs dragging the wheels and tires to a shop to have them put on. The actual work to remove and put on the tires seems easy enough, I've done it on my bicycle so I know the basic concepts only obviously haven't applied them to a much thicker and beefier tire. Only thought is that I don't have the means to inflate or balance the tires myself after the fact so I'd have to take them to the gas station to pump full of air anyway, then take to a shop to balance, or just take them to the shop to inflate and balance. Not sure it's worth the hassle to save what will probably amount to a few minutes in labour costs for a professional to just do the whole job for me. Unless there's a super easy/cheap way to balance at home without buying any equipment. e: Holy smokes my 130 tire looks so thin compared to the 160 monstrosity on my bike right now 
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Jul 25, 2019 12:38
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Hmm. I might try myself then. Granted I'll need to buy the weights but I just YouTubed it and it does look fairly straightforward.
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Jul 25, 2019 13:48
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All good points. I'm swinging back to paying someone to do it for me just to avoid the pressure bead seating thing. This is why I ask before I try 
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Jul 25, 2019 15:49
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Yeah if I call a shop and they tell me it's going to be like a hundred bucks to seat two tires I'm going to try myself first since I'll have to go to the shop if I gently caress it up or can't seat the bead anyway. If it's more reasonable I won't bother.
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Jul 25, 2019 16:24
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Still seems less pain in the rear end than pulling my carbs. Which really should be my next project 
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Jul 25, 2019 16:41
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Would you guys say that it’s expected that an engine which is still cold and running rough would produce rough rotation of the wheel until it warms up? I had my bike on the rear stand and fired it up just to test something, threw it in first and saw the wheel turning .. I don’t know how to describe it .. just not smoothly. The best description I’d give is that it turned how a cold engine sounds. I didn’t leave it running until it heated up because I’m iffy on running the bike on the stand in the first place, but it makes sense to me. Just want to sanity check.
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Jul 28, 2019 22:51
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Correct. Was doing absolutely no work, just wanted to see the bike spin. Last thing I need is to lose a finger. I need those  I’ll grab a video ya some point but it makes sense to me.
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Jul 28, 2019 23:22
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Is there anything dangerous about not preforming valve clearance check/adjustment at specified intervals, or is it just going to affect performance? Judging by how the PO “took care” of the bike, and given that it’s a 250 beater ninja I doubt this has ever had valve clearances checked. I took a look at the process on YouTube and it’s a little advanced for me right now, but if it’s one of those “well how much do you like fiery engine death?” situations then I am ok taking it in to have someone do it. Just seems like it’ll be kind of pricey off the bat. E: I don’t want to sound like I’m willingly ready to avoid proper maintenance, but if the bike has (probably) gone 2011-2019 without a valve clearance check then I presume whatever damage was going to be done is already done. If it’s something that can wait until I have extreme downtime in the winter then it sounds like a good winter garage project where I can afford to have the bike out of service for a long time while I figure out wtf I’m doing. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 13:10 on Aug 6, 2019 |
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Aug 6, 2019 13:07
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Yeah, unfortunately I need to pull the cams, basically tear the whole thing apart. I think I will just take the gamble and do it this winter, unless I find a week where I want to have the bike apart.
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Aug 6, 2019 17:11
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My '11 ex250 has some "impressive" afterfiring on throttle roll-off. I gather this could be either the bike running lean or a leak in the exhaust system. Not seeing any obvious leaks between the headers and the exhaust I guess I'm looking at lean condition. I'm going to swap the spark plugs this week once my socket tool gets in from amazon so that may shed some light on the situation. I guess my question is that if it is a lean condition, would I be able to verify by increasing choke? If I engage some choke and then try revving up and rolling off, should I expect that the afterfiring would decrease/stop? Just kind of at a loss for how else to diagnose until I pull plugs, and if those are inconclusive then I'm like 
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Aug 19, 2019 14:42
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I’ll give that a shot tomorrow, thanks. My recollection is that it’s the former and it takes a second to come down, but I’m just going off memory. I should figure out how to pull the carbs to inspect/clean but it seems so involved with the airbox on the ninja.
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Aug 19, 2019 20:51
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I’ll take some video today if I can remember. It’s pretty pronounced though, much more than any 250 I’ve seen on YouTube so far. But maybe I’m just not watching the right videos. As far as the carbs, there’s an equally good chance the PO has never touched them in their life, or he’s replaced the jets with old McDonalds drink straws — it’s literally a 50/50 with the stuff I’ve seen done to the bike so far. The carb thing would just be good to know how to service because I’m HOPING he’s never touched them, which means they’re probably due for a good clean by now. Either way, I’m going to just run it as is until it gets too annoying or I have some time on my hands this winter.
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Aug 19, 2019 21:22
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mewse posted:How much do you think you would've paid a mechanic to tap your carbs with a screwdriver I'll do it for half that. Think of the savings!
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Sep 16, 2019 18:50
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No complaints about my ram x-mount a month in. Cheap-ish and sturdy. I always use the rubber retainer they included though. I’m a trusting fellow but the resale value of my bike is approaching the value of my phone, let’s say, so I’m not taking chances.
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Sep 29, 2019 15:54
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I just bought like a bucket of weathersealed connectors on Amazon for ten bucks and used those. Granted, I had to solder them in place but I like the end result.
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Oct 1, 2019 21:01
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Question for everyone who started on a 125 or 250: How long before you found yourself wanting to upgrade? How long before you actually upgraded? What was your next jump? Context: Not actually worried about outgrowing my 250 any time soon, but genuinely curious what other people's experience is. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't overcome with lust after some 650s but I'm holding steady for now.
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Oct 8, 2019 14:20
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I have two batteries and one battery tender. If I keep them both indoors and swap which battery is hooked to the tender every two weeks or so, would that do to keep them fairly healthy over the winter? I can buy a second tender but if setting a reminder to swap every two weeks is enough then I’ll do that.
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Nov 2, 2019 00:40
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What’s the thread opinion on fumoto valves? Considering one just because I like the idea of using a hose to drain, and not having to worry about torquing the plug after every change is a plus.
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Nov 7, 2019 21:53
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If no one in this thread answers your question, I’d bet the folks over here can!
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Nov 9, 2019 14:10
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Anyone have any recommendations for TPMS monitors? I have a gift cert to Amazon and it sounds easier than manually checking pressure before I ride.
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Nov 19, 2019 15:54
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Has anyone bought from https://www.service-shop-repair-manual.com before? Both Kawasaki and Partzilla are out of stock for the service manual on a specific bike, and ebay only has one hit which is like $160+ after shipping and import. Googling for PDF versions of this SM only leads to prior year models which may or may not be useful for certain things. Clymer doesn't have a manual for this model either. I gather from the photos that what this site sells are just printed out copies of the OEM SM which, morality aside, I'm okay with as long as the material is there. e: After some googling it looks like they have some positive feedback from a smattering of random other motorcycle forum members so I might give it a shot for fifty bucks. I tried to give you money, Kawasaki. I really tried v  v
some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 13:31 on Nov 26, 2019 |
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Nov 26, 2019 13:27
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mewse posted:This for your ninja 250? What year? I can check what I have when I get home Nah, I have all the 250 manuals. This is for an '18 650. Thanks though! some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Nov 26, 2019 |
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Nov 26, 2019 20:00
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Ah yeah I think that's the one I found earlier and dismissed as too expensive, though I now realize that Partzilla would have cost same after shipping if they weren't out of stock. Cheers!
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Nov 27, 2019 20:02
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Are electrical connectors which OEMs use typically unobtanium, or is there some standard I can look up? I want to add a brake light modulator on my '18 Ninja 650 but I'd rather not hack up the wiring harness going to the tail light. If I can get a male and female connector of the appropriate kinds I can just add the modulator inline and pass through the third daytime running lead. Partzilla doesn't seem to show it as a separate unit, and even if it did I suspect it would just show the whole assembly and not the connectors.
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Mar 16, 2020 21:51
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What do you guys think? Looks pretty close to Sumitomo MT 090 3C (based on the equivalent Sumitomo part number from cycleterminal.com)  http://www.cycleterminal.com/mt-series-090.html Probably worth a gamble at five bucks.
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Mar 17, 2020 00:21
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I know nothing about exhausts. What is it about 2 stroke engines that leads them to have such tiny cans vs big chonk cans on 4 stroke bikes?
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Mar 21, 2020 03:06
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 20:46 |
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What qualifies an unsafe tire pressure? Pulled the bike out of the shed today for good and rear is 32/45 and front is 30/42. Is this unsafe to do a two minute ride down to the gas station to air up, or is it a “keep your distance drive slow and you’re ok” situation? E: Oh never mind, the tire is the max cold PSI. The swingarm sticker says 32f 36r so I think I’m good. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Mar 25, 2020 |
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Mar 25, 2020 21:26
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