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You make that EX250 look like a large sports tourer...
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Sep 5, 2014 14:31
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I'm sure I read somewhere that the striple and related motors burn oil at track-level revs/loads but for normal road use they are usually ok. So it may be that 'twistos mate just revs the piss out of it all the time.
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Oct 2, 2014 13:49
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As it's injection, check your manual and see if there is an ECU reset/calibrate procedure (it might just be as simple as disconnecting the battery for a few minutes). You can check for an air leak too. You can check this by spraying a little puff of EZ-start where the throttle body attaches to the motor while the bike is idling. If the revs climb when you squirt it you have a leak. It's probably not this, especially on an injection bike, but it's such an easy check (no tools needed) that it's one of the first things I try. Coils can go bad and cause poor spark, there will be a spec (resistance across the contacts and so on) which you can test with a multimeter pretty easily. My bet would be on fuel pump pressure / filter / injector, though.
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Nov 14, 2014 18:06
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There's a couple of products specifically for visors, I've only tried the Nikwax one but it was pretty good I guess. Some people use regular (cheaper) rain-x but it can damage some visors apparently, most notably ones with coatings, thanks to the acetone. You can get a similar result by carefully washing the visor with warm, very lightly soapy water, degreasing it with lighter fluid and buffing on some thin silicone spray with a microfibre cloth.
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Nov 18, 2014 16:03
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Yeah, pinlock owns bones.
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Nov 18, 2014 19:15
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Yeah I've learned my lessons on generic batteries, the KTM 690 series are hard on them too. Yuasa or nothing.
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Dec 15, 2014 09:56
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In order of bestness / safeness: 1) The correct amount of the correct weight of fresh oil according to your manual Preferably one with a motorcycle rating or no friction modifiers (often marketed as economy / efficiency boosting oils) 2) The correct amount of fresh oil as close as you can find to the weight stated in the manual, with the Again with no friction modifiers etc 3) The correct amount of any goddamn fresh engine oil of a sane weight You risk getting a slippy clutch if it's got unfriendly additives but replacing clutch plates is better than rebuilding the motor. 4) The correct amount of any engine oil you can find, even if some or all of it is old 5) Not enough oil 6) No Oil 7) Rocks / sand / gravel ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 09:40 on Dec 30, 2014 |
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Dec 29, 2014 20:06
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Schroeder91 posted:I was lubing my chain and noticed a small rubber ring coming out of the master link. I pulled it out because it was obviously torn, but I've never seen this before. The chain only has a couple thousand on it. Don't recall what kind of chain it is, bought and installed at shop. I lube and clean every couple hundred miles. Is this a big problem? The chain feels fine. Probably the shop slightly over-peened the rivet and it was too tight on the o-ring, squeezing it out. Getting the right level of peen on the rivets of the master is something that takes a little finesse, you basically creep up on it, tightening the tool until it has roughly the same resistance as the other links. Maybe they palmed it off to the Saturday boy. It's why my positive terminal cover looks like a dog chewed it  peen.
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Jan 23, 2015 14:32
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goddamnedtwisto posted:He reckons putting 5 psi in the front tyre has fixed it. Still calling psychosomatic but whatever. If the tyre was really soft and he was on a road with significant camber it would pull ever so slightly to the right as the contact patch increased massively on the camber side. Striples have one of the narrowest handlebars on any bike so it would be more noticeable than other bikes.
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Jan 29, 2015 17:45
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Wizard of Smart posted:Well maybe only the second worst bike! I love my bike though. The Blast is so bad that Eric Buell had one crushed into a cube as a PR stunt:  You've got a long way to go.
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Feb 24, 2015 10:05
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Someone who knows about the dark wizardry of carbs I believe the correct term is Stoichiomancer.
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Mar 6, 2015 11:23
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Radbot posted:Holy poo poo. reasonsToBuyFuelInjectedVehicles.txt Most throttle bodies have screws made of cheese too, sorry. EDIT: and good loving luck diagnosing a no start or bad running from an intermittent or otherwise faulty injector. When I finally figured out that my injector was hosed it had already cost me a fruitless and expensive trip to the dealer garage (actually what convinced me to just do everything myself thereafter). Then I had to buy a replacement injector for nearly 40 quid on top of that. ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 21:06 on Mar 13, 2015 |
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Mar 13, 2015 20:57
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Fix one thing at a time. Hitting the problem scattergun is only going to make the problem(s) muddier and harder to resolve. Fix the petcock first, it shouldn't be difficult to fix and you can verify that it works easily. Then look at the floats, if they have holes then it should be obvious because they'll have fuel inside them. Make sure they move totally free and loose on their pivots, the buoyancy of these things is not exactly strong, any excess friction can top them putting enough pressure on the valve. Then check the valve that the float operates, it has a little conical rubber seal that doesn't need much crud to defeat. This seal is not intended to hold fuel for anything other than while the bike is running, a very slow overflow is normal if the bike is not running and the petcock is open. I you fixed all of this and you're still having a lot of pop and bang out of the exhaust, the next thing to check for is intake leaks. These can be easily detected with nothing more than starter spray or even WD40. Get the bike running and spray a little puff around the rubber intake boots that connect carb to motor. If the engine revs climb when you do this, you have air getting in after the carb, meaning you're running lean.
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Mar 17, 2015 20:10
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I think the SR400 is probably a no go, it's pretty gutless. Honestly, at that weight, even a goldwing is probably suitable. Also, as a previously fat, now chunky, getting more trim guy myself - http://www.dietdoctor.com/ [actual GP Doctor, free advice, free advice actually works, backed up by actual clinical data]
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Mar 18, 2015 18:17
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Cycle Asylum > Motorcycle Question Thread II: Proof of Multimeter ownership required to postZ3n posted:Like this is diagnosis 101 and they've dicked it up real good. gently caress 'em, start a thread, DIY it, we'll get ya through. Yeah this. There is an amazing bike mechanic in your area somewhere, but the effects of Quantum Bike Mechanics are such that by the time you've heard about (and observed) them they've turned to poo poo.
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Mar 19, 2015 09:53
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Letting it grow out a bit helps. If you grow it long enough you get the effect of a chin curtain, which is nice in winter.
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Mar 23, 2015 10:07
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Slavvy posted:I realised something the other day. There is a road I ride down every day to get to work which has two roundabouts in a row (the council loves roundabouts in industrial areas) which aren't intersections because the side roads haven't been built yet, so you have no choice but to go straight through. They're essentially chicanes with perfect visibility and good pavement. At a guess, probably the rake / trail of the steering. I expect the ZX had a much steeper rake than the hyoshit. Motorcycle Handling & Chassis Design by Tony Foale is a great book if you're properly interested in the science of it all. EDIT: Jinx EDIT2: Found a gif that says it nicely  EDIT3: Hmm and offset too.  http://www.gotagteam.com/KTM_Days/Story_Pages/2010/AFM_round-7_10.html ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 19:42 on Mar 26, 2015 |
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Mar 26, 2015 19:23
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Adding oil to the fuel on a 4 stroke bike will actually make the bike run lean. This is bad. How to pick oil: ReelBigLizard posted:In order of bestness / safeness: ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 09:33 on Mar 31, 2015 |
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Mar 31, 2015 09:31
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Trauma Tank posted:Just messed around with the SMC again, it definitely doesn't like starting up cold on just the starter. I applied a bit of throttle before pressing the button and it seemed to start up fine. I hadn't tried this before as applying throttle while already holding the starter has just made it respond worse in the past, which is different to how the SV I'm used to responded. Does it happen when you've not long turned off the bike (say an hour or two), but not when the bike has been sitting for a longer period, say 24 hrs? If so, you may have a leaking injector like I did ('08 690 SMC).
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Jul 10, 2015 11:20
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Trauma Tank posted:I'll keep an eye out when I test it out in the morning, I'll also mention it to the shop when they're replacing the battery, thanks! Make sure they replace it with the correct genuine Yuasa as spec'd in the manual. The 690s are hard on batteries, I tried a generic but killed it in about 6 months.
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Jul 13, 2015 18:32
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Just get some autosol and some cheap toothbrushes / rags and add some elbow grease, that's how the old timers did it. It doesn't have to be that shiny right down in the fins IMO.
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Aug 16, 2015 14:52
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I'm guessing at certain RPMs it stops those fins resonating like a tuning fork...
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Sep 23, 2015 11:36
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Lighter fluid, like the stuff for zippo lighters, is my go-to for gentle adhesive removal. It's good for removing grease, tar flecks and stuff, evaporates quickly without leaving a residue. If it's cold where you are I'd also warm everything up with a hair dryer.
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Jan 28, 2016 13:52
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High Protein posted:Yeah the 10000km interval always seemed high to me; I change the oil on my SMC at 1500-2500mi. I live on an island where the KTM dealer was the best dealer for 10 straight years. There is probably a higher relative percentage of KTM ownership here than anywhere else outside of Matighofen. The local wisdom is "Take the interval KTM told you and half it". Especially true if you commute on it and lug it a bit in traffic vs. weekend hoonery. EDIT: dang, wait, I had a question - What is the mirror set with the built in indicators I've seen recommended here a couple times, I wanna say by z3n? I think they are OEM on an Aprilia or something? ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 15:43 on Apr 14, 2016 |
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Apr 14, 2016 15:20
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High Protein posted:Could my sudden oil consumption be from ring/cylinder corrosion? The bike's sat for like 6 weeks, outside, but under a car port and cover. I know some winterization guides say to fog the cylinders with oil but I didn't deem it necessary, also I don't think it's that easy to take the spark plugs out of a 690. I doubt it. Mine has sat for multiple weeks, multiple times, in a marina car park and ridden all weathers for 30k, never garaged. The mechanicals are fine. It did however turn my wiring loom into a series of PVC tubes filled with green dust. Plug removal isn't terrible, IIRC it's - Remove seat, Remove side panel, pull plug boot, use a long socket extension to clear the trellis frame (assuming SMC/SE, gently caress knows for the SMs).
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Apr 14, 2016 19:20
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Linedance posted:Let me preface this question by first saying know I am a Bad Person and possibly a Horrible Human Being, but Motorcycle Jesus forgives all who accept Him into their hearts. Make sure there's enough of the relevant fluids and give it a good Italian tune-up - If the rings have stuck in the bores then a good thrashing will buff it out and getting the oil up to temp and keeping it there will drive out the moisture that it has probably sucked up from winter condensation. Change the oil if you're that bothered by it, but it doesn't really go off that quickly so if it still had plenty of life when you parked it I'd just use as-is.
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Apr 18, 2016 22:45
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I have a stickReelBigLizard posted:Take your suitably sized thingymagig, in my case this is a piece of scrap aluminium pipe that does double duty as a leverage bar in my tool box, it's got an old bit of innertube wrapped around the end dso it doesn't scratch poo poo up: Move it more backwards to lift the back.
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Apr 26, 2016 22:56
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Related - Depending on bike design and clearance, you may be able to increase the oil capacity with a spacer on the sump, or a larger replacement sump casing. http://www.touratech-usa.com/Store/2085/PN-040-0953/Oil-Sump-Extension-for-R100GS I've seen designs like this with cooling fins machined in to aid passive oil cooling.
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May 5, 2016 23:09
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Innovative new evaporative cooling system for motorbike radiators, pledge on my kickstarter now!
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May 12, 2016 17:59
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 19:29 |
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M42 posted:According to a dude that's done it, I have to go as far as removing the rear cylinder head cover and loving with the cam chain, because removing the bolt and the tension it provides may cause the chain to slip a tooth. Good poo poo, bike. I'm gonna tighten it to spec on the off chance it just loosened itself, and pray to baby fuckin jesus that fixes it. Back out the bolt enough turns to wrap a bunch of plumbers ptfe thread tape around it, do it up again.
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Jun 23, 2016 17:55
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